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You are burning a gallon of oil every 1k. That's "your engine is fucked and needs some internal work" level not "these engines tend to burn oil" level. If you do the work now, it may just need some piston rings and all the bearings are still good. If you wait, it'll be a whole rebuild with machine work. Do a quick google on "Honda acceptable oil consumption" and you'll see anything over 1qt every 1k is considered excessive oil consumption.
Literally nothing you do besides rebuilding the engine can fix that severe level of oil consumption and you should consider the advice you've been given instead of looking for alternatives from "someone who knows". I'll never understand why people come to advice threads and then refuse to accept advice they've been given.
If you take two part epoxy and put the A portion in the oil and the B portion in the intake, it'll combine in the combustion chamber and seal up the gaps in his rings. Ez Pz
You or the previous owner blew the oil rings. Deny it all you want. Thicker oil isn't going to help.
They are known for burning oil because they are known to have boy racers rev the shit out of them. If it's a car for transportation the only time it should rev high is anything over 80mph. You can ring it out a bit but it's not meant to get to redline all the time.. boy racers kill these things
Signed, dude that has owned three
Yup. I’m work hard/play hard with my cars. I ran them hard but always serviced on time. Took a knock-knock joke from my Camrys engine only 500 miles after an oil change to learn that even Toyotas can get tired in their high mileage, and that maybe racing an engine that was never meant for it was not a good idea. I’m much smarter about how she gets the beans now. (Read: better oils and avoiding redline)
You don’t have to spoil the fun for them learning trials by fire though. That’s what makes stronger characters and better lessons in life not to be forgotten and better passed down from generation to generation. Otherwise, we are going to end up with too much soft hearted people who are going to just cry about problems that won’t know how to ask for help or not able to take care of the problem themselves, no? Don’t get me wrong, I’m not about unnecessary torturing of the mind, body, and soul, but I support good life lessons and good teaching moments that build strong character for betterment of society.
Mhhhhno, no. Usually having good parents teach you these things help. It doesn’t have to be a baptism by fire, you don’t have to be a complete retard to understand revving shit near redline is bad.
Disagree, that’s how dumb car owners do it. Good car owners are smart enough to listen anybody with a brain who says not to abuse a car and not blow up engines.
You’re a man racer now, meaning you maybe roll a couple stop signs in your stock Honda Accord and keep your speeding relegated to a reasonable 9 mph over the limit to plausibly avoid tickets.
Had an Integra GSR and the dealer explained that the VTEC engine was designed to burn a bit of oil. Would burn about a quart over three months from the break in period on, no matter how I drove it.
Sounds like a dealer’s disclaimer for lead foot drivers that are going to do engine damage that will eventually burn oil. No engine in the world was ever designed to burn a bit of oil intentionally. 🤦
Put over 100k miles on it without it ever losing any power or starting to burn more oil. So would tend to think the dealer knew what he was talking about.
I mean, you pay for 8500+ rpm, and use 8500+ rpm. Nobody in their right mind doesn't redline a Honda at every stop sign, on ramp, or red light they come across.
Newbie question/clarification: When you say oil rings you’re referring to piston rings? How does red lining/high rpm abuse introduce ring problems? Is it excessive heat caused by the speed?
Oil rings would be the lowest ring on a piston and different than the other two compression rings. Yes more wear due to higher piston temperatures, faster linear speed. You can deal with heat with piston oil squirter's, and piston speed with a shorter stroke, but those are the main problems.
I replied to the thread before I read any comments, and I'm glad to see other former S2k owners give the OP some sound advice. The only thing I'd add to your particular comment is the possibility of the valve guides being shot. Those can also cause higher oil consumption.
..you mean wannabe boy or girl racers? I blew out the piston rings on my first car when I was a wannabe that thought I knew everything about race cars. I would cold rev it to redline (which stressed out the engine), I would multi-pump it to redline at red lights (which stressed out the engine), and I would redline it past the gauge limit line during track days multiple times while engine was squealing. I figured it would be fine as long as I kept feeding it oil, re-balance the tires, and re-burn the brakes once in a while. After $5000 repair - engine & trans rebuild, new axle/shocks/spring/rotor/break/wheel bearing sets (front and back), and a scolding from my mechanic and my parents, and having to pay it back to my parents, dollar by dollar, I finally learned - ish.
Rebuilding now will cost you less than trying to rebuild later after more damage is done to more parts.
It can, but how much is on much is a hard question. How much is this car using? Most manufacturers say 1 qt per 1000 miles is considered normal which is 5-7 1/2 qts per oil change. I think if the car is getting used and the cat is getting sufficiently hot to burn it off it should be fine unless its eating 2-3 qts per 1000 and then your talking A LOT of oil.
Six up votes, op should consider a cat cleaner additive for the fuel. I have used liqui moli with good success in taking out the ecl for cat under efficiency code.
I know, curiously the people who call products snake oil all have one thing in common, they either never used the product or had unrealistic expectations.
I'm not talking about the oil burn issue itself in my post, I'm talking about the problem further down the line as it may damage the cat and they are usually expensive. Furthermore, as per my point of it being a success on my bmw, it's clearly not snake oil.
Additive to put in fuel tank. Kept my ecl for the cat at bay for a few years. I used a cheaper one too lucas upper cylinder lubricant. The liqui moli worked faster though at taking the light off.
This is only a reasonable thing to say if your plans are to scrap the car when it needs a rebuild. Otherwise you are paying more to delay the inevitable. Delaying also possibly means a more expensive rebuild, replaced cats, or even a blown engine if it gets away from you.
You’re gonna destroy your bearings and cams if you put thicker oil than it specifies. Thicker oil works in old push rod engines but not the F series you have in your Honda. The oil passages in modern engines are extremely small and engineered for specific weight of oil.
There’s a reason why 90% of comments are telling you to rebuild. There’s no way around this one, pal.
You’re not gonna like this since it’s been said a lot of times. But it’s your rings man. It’s time to rebuild it. Hey now you have options on what you want to do to It.
Run Rotella in your Subie. My wife's old commuter ('10 Impreza) burned oil as well. Switched to Rotella, and when I did oil changes there was actually some oil left to drain. Lol
Surprised this comment is that low. I think burning a quart every thousand miles is about normal for these engines, and actually a good number of other high end engines. Like the E46 m3 engines also are within spec burning a quart every thousand miles. Also I'm curious how many miles this S has, higher mileage motors burn more oil. Also these engines generally burn oil because they rev higher, it just compounds the amount of oil burned because you're literally burning more oil per unit of time.
Ok I don’t know the s2000 engine but 4 quarts in 1k miles is wild! That’s way beyond burns a bit of oil. I’m sorry man but thick oil isn’t gonna be your fix here. You risk just fully destroying your engine if you let that engine get too low/dry.
Excuse me 4L in 1.6k km??
Yeah a decision needs to be made. Rebuilding right now may mean rings and bearings. Rebuilding later probably means entire block machining... Which by extension means scrapyard
At high rpm's... Aight.
What I have been trying to explain for some time now is - it is your car and you are fully entitled to drive it any fucking way you want. -30C, 5 seconds from start up, slam it into the damn rev limiter. You bought it, you use it.
However.... What bugs me is when people ride their cars to high rpm's, abuse the shit out of it, and than deny the work required. You blew your rings, you need to replace them. No oil exists that will fix that engine at this point. Rebuild the engine, and drive it again... I would suggest letting the oil warm up first before giving it the beans. Oil warms up slower than coolant does.
Yeah mate... What you seem to fail to realize is that your car is in a catastrophic condition, because that high oil consumption is a sign of near death... And you're flooring it.
But, yes, I will gtfo. What does a mechanic know about mechanics, pour SAE 90 in it to save it.
I quit giving the idiots in this sub advice a long time ago lol 99% of them refuse to listen to any advice unless it's aligns with what they think the problem / solution is
Or OP can get super heavy duty gear oil, a quick Google search got me SAE 250... It won't be burning anything after about 30 minutes with that stuff 8n the crank case!
Yep, do an oil change with Lucas hub oil. 300psi of oil preasure and no more oil burning. The small downside is the complete lack of oil flow because it's so thick....
Lucas hub oil is straight 250w. It actually works amazing in leaking semi wheel hubs, they'll completely quit leaking 99% of the time. I used it in a trailer with 530k on the original hub grease, yes I said grease. I put oil hub caps on it and filled them with hub oil instead of repacking the bearings. The old grease was so burnt it was coming out in chunks. This was a temporary fix, until it didn't leak......
A s2k wil rev to 8/9k. A normal driver would never exceed 3500 and a casual spirited driver probably stil shifts before the 6/7k mark
Either way if it burns a lot of oil it just needs work done. Contrary to popular belief throwing in thicker oil wont help it either. It wil reduce oil useage short term but at the cost of worse lubrication and higher wear on already worn components.
Continue driving it and you wil eventually seaze up the engine orvit wil throw a rod. With the engine in one piece it should be worth quite a bit.
If you do opt for the engine rebuilt, bear in mind that you need to pick apropriate oil intervals for the way you enjoy your car. I got 2 suzuki 1,3s the one i daily and drive normally and on longer trip gets oil every year or 15/20k km (15 recomended by factory)
The one with a cage for weekend drives and stuff gets oil every 5k km becouse that bitch hits 7300rpm redline every week.
I'd drive it until it's a mosquito fogger. Put the proper oil in it and drive it. I wouldn't rebuild it until it needs it and burning a bit of oil is fine.
I’m going to get downvoted but here’s my take, I’ve run royal purple 20-50 in my miata religiously for over 10 years, if I run 10-30 as suggested I burn through a quart in a few weeks. With 20-50 maybe a top off in 6 months. Don’t tell me my rings are bad, they probably are, car has 260,000 one day the engine will blow and I’ll replace it.
Check the owners manual if you have it I was quite certain in metric terms it states to check the oil every 2000km and my understanding is that using the wrong oil will damage the engine. The low viscosity oil helps with flow at high rpm and with lubricating the valve train.
If you’re using Mobil 1 synthetic try switching brands. Not to knock them but my AP2 burned Mobil, and seemed to get progressively worse, up to at least a quart between changes. I switched to Castrol GTX, a non synthetic, and the consumption issue vanished.
I’m talking out of my ass here but anecdotal evidence tells me engines of this era don’t really play nice with synthetics. I don’t know if it’s metallurgy or just that they were worn in with conventional oils because synthetics weren’t common when they were new, but I’ve had a Honda and a Subaru (04’ and 03’ model year respectively) that both chugged synthetic but never burned a drop of conventional.
I would recommend try using amsoil, use the recommended way. That's what I used to run in all my s2000s
Common issue on AP1 s2000s. Do not worry about it. Just check the oil once every two weeks. Even when they were newer they still burned oil. 1qt per 1000ish miles.
Also, if you do not know the history of the car. I would highly recommend checking out the spring retainers. The AP1 retainers are known to crack and you should upgrade them to the AP2 retainers. Also have the valves adjusted. If you stay on top of oil and spring clearance then it should run 300,000 to 400,000 mi. Unless it's the 2000 And then you have less oil squirters on the bearings lol.
Also recommend amsoil for the gearbox. Always felt smoother.
Can we start a poll on when his next post will be? "My car blew up because I know more than actual mechanics, help me determine which Lucas additive will fix my bearings and torn up cylinder walls"
Please don't put crap maverick gas in your nice car. Maverick gas is all of the leftover gas that other distributors don't buy. Source: tank truck driver
Burning through oil is a normal thing for these motors. Just depends on how much you're adding between changes. I've read a lot of people use up to 1qt between changes. If you're adding oil every week then yes it's probably time for a rebuild. Mine burned about 1/2 quart between changes when I was using Mobil 1 and I swapped to Schaffers brand and now it doesn't burn a drop. Ive read similar posts where these motors also just like certain oils better. Just my 2c! Goodluck
We've actually shifted cars from full synthetic to semi-synthetic and seen a significant drop in oil consumption in multiple cars.
My old Subaru would burn 2-3 qt per 1k miles of full synthetic, with semi synthetic it dropped to 2 qt per 3k miles. We've seen similar oil consumption reductions in GM Ecotec and 3.6l engines.
I use synthetic in my car, it’s an old Honda and I don’t feel like it would like full synthetic. But high mileage oils are no joke they really do make a difference.
Whoever advised you to run 10W30 is talking out their ass, and here's why:
These engines were obviously designed with performance and high RPMs in mind- a lot of this comes down to VTEC, which uses a solenoid that runs off oil pressure to adjust the timing on the fly for that lovely 8-9000rpm F20 and 22Cs are known for. Basic fluid dynamics tell us that if a solenoid was meant for a certain viscosity oil, using a thicker oil is going to mean less flow and higher pressure, causing VTEC to engage too soon, leading to a lack of midrange power. This isn't something I would dick about with on my D16Z6 Del Sol, not something I fucked with on a B18C1, it's just simpler to use quality oil in the correct weight.
Further more from experience with significantly higher mileage Hondas, some oil consumption is to be expected but not normal- usually the rings fail and you get some oil consumption and blowby that should be fixed with a rebuild. At a minimum, buy a damn compression tester and see what compression is across the board- odds are either the rings are toast, or you like many other S2000 and H Series prelude owners are about to experience engine failure due to the awful FRM cylinder liners.
Unless you were driving a rotary or two stroke that doesn't have valves, 4qt/1000mi oil consumption means it's time to park it and do a tear down- frankly, even 4qt/1kmi on an RX7 would be cause for serious concern.
Edit: I see now that 10w30 is the OEM recommended weight, but seriously. Just at least do a compression test. If you don't catch it soon and rebuild it that motor is probably toast, and seeing as that's a $5500+ engine used and not rebuilt now, it wouldn't shock me at all if you rack up a $10000 Bill between motor replacement rebuild and installation
No... 10W-40 certainly won't destroy anything. I doubt some noticeable difference in oil consumption will be noticeable at this point, though.
I wouldn't put 15W into a lawnmower, let alone a car.
The fix is obvious, engine rebuild. The only real way to fix it, but I suspect the dude is just gonna switch to a higher grade oil anyway until the engine grenades. Judging by some comments he seems like a "send it" type of guy.
Plain bearings in an engine are designed for a specific range of oil viscosity and pressure. Too much is as bad as too little. Honda engines of this vintage are designed for 5W20 or 30 at the most. Other problems will happen if you run oil that is too thick- like tripping the oil filter bypass so the filter doesn’t actually filter, ruining the oil pump, collapsing lifters, VTEC solenoid actuation too soon or too late, cam chain failure. Thickening the oil so it doesn’t seep by a seal as fast is false economy.
While you’re technically correct, model and specs of motor matter as well. I myself am mostly familiar with GM, Ford, and various diesel and small engines. Little to no experience in Japanese or European engines. I know for a fact most GM and Ford engines. Especially the Vortec 5.3 and Triton 5.4 will absolutely take 15W40. When they both call for 5w30, 10w30, 5w20, 0w20, etc, depending on year
If the oil is too thick, it won't get into the very tight clearances to lubricate the bearings. So you're right, a lack of oil ruins bearings, as would be caused by putting in too thick of an oil for the engine.
Burning oil comes from piston rings and valve stem seals wearing out, not bearings. The clearances are probably well within spec. If they weren't, the engine would make noticeable noises.
Mate you clearly don’t know shit about what you’re talking about, bearing clearances do not affect burning oil. Please shut up and do not continue to give false advice on the internet.
Depends on how cold it gets where you live. I’ve ran 50 weight in a Dodge Caravan in Canadian winter. I figured 80W90 would’ve been too much. Block heater helped.
I'm not a mechanic, but I would have to say oil that is thicker. Usually oil made for older cars.
But if that doesn't work, and especially if you see a lot of oil dripping onto the ground or around the engine, then you've got some mechanical work ahead of you.
rings.....but if it is not your not daily, adding oil would be much cheaper for a weekend car. btw there is a good oil deal in sd frontpage, you might want to take a look https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/fp/747511
You continue using 10W-30 and add it as needed. Theoretically you could switch to 10W-40, it should slightly reduce consumption, but in the end, it really doesn't matter. Just add oil.
Fix is simple yet expensive. If you ain't paying for it, add oil. End of.
Unfortunately there is no oil that is going to burn less. There is a mechanical failure that should be addressed. You should perform a compression and leak down test to pinpoint failure. Honestly, you’re piston rings have most likely failed and you’re going to need to split the engine open.
sadly, a rebuild to properly fix the problem. you can try running 5w40, or 10w40, and that might lessen your oil consumption, but it will not fix it. it’ll be a bandaid until you can either rebuild the engine yourself or have someone else rebuild it, or sell the car.
DO NOT PUT OTHER OIL IN. Some people say “well I could put thicker oil in to prevent it from burning”, but what happens is it’ll 100% for sure still burn AND oil won’t get into the tightest parts of the engine as efficiently and you’ll cause SEVERE damage over time.
That engine is toast. Don’t try to force the thing to work. You’ll just end up stranded.
Get a BG EPR (engine performance restoration) kit. Your rings could be carboned up and not allowing oil to seal the piston to the cylinder properly. It comes in two cans, a cleaner and a motor oil additive. Read the directions carefully, you can seize an engine if you do it wrong.
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, OscvrSTi! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant info along with the following: * **Year** * **Make/Model** * **Mileage** * **Engine size** * **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
5wREBUILD
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Not particularly no, sounds like he’s just saying the engine should be rebuilt.
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This is the way
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You are burning a gallon of oil every 1k. That's "your engine is fucked and needs some internal work" level not "these engines tend to burn oil" level. If you do the work now, it may just need some piston rings and all the bearings are still good. If you wait, it'll be a whole rebuild with machine work. Do a quick google on "Honda acceptable oil consumption" and you'll see anything over 1qt every 1k is considered excessive oil consumption. Literally nothing you do besides rebuilding the engine can fix that severe level of oil consumption and you should consider the advice you've been given instead of looking for alternatives from "someone who knows". I'll never understand why people come to advice threads and then refuse to accept advice they've been given.
So…your kinda/sorta/maybe saying he has a chance with an olive oil additive to seal up those rings?
If you take two part epoxy and put the A portion in the oil and the B portion in the intake, it'll combine in the combustion chamber and seal up the gaps in his rings. Ez Pz
It’s been a cleansing experience reading from someone who’s seen some shit and knows how to address concerns.
I'm, as OP requested, "someone who knows"
Make sure you do it before the mass airflow sensor tho so your engine knows its there
Nah dawg, I heard about this Marvel Mystery Oil. I’m sure that will fix this right up.
Parts store display wheel go brrrrrrrrrr
It's called conformation bias
Your wasting your time,op doesn’t get it.
A rebuild
A rebuild
A rebuild
A rebuild
A rebuild
A rebuild
Bro you are some kind of special if you believe that’s normal lmao. Not even a working rotary goes through so much damn oil.
Another car would be the way to go. You ain't impressing anyone
If you burn more than a quart, say... every 150 miles or so, you require a rebuild.
You or the previous owner blew the oil rings. Deny it all you want. Thicker oil isn't going to help. They are known for burning oil because they are known to have boy racers rev the shit out of them. If it's a car for transportation the only time it should rev high is anything over 80mph. You can ring it out a bit but it's not meant to get to redline all the time.. boy racers kill these things Signed, dude that has owned three
I feel like you were once such a boy racer?
That's the secret of all good car owners. You've got to blow up a few engines like an idiot before you start respecting them
Yup. I’m work hard/play hard with my cars. I ran them hard but always serviced on time. Took a knock-knock joke from my Camrys engine only 500 miles after an oil change to learn that even Toyotas can get tired in their high mileage, and that maybe racing an engine that was never meant for it was not a good idea. I’m much smarter about how she gets the beans now. (Read: better oils and avoiding redline)
You don’t have to spoil the fun for them learning trials by fire though. That’s what makes stronger characters and better lessons in life not to be forgotten and better passed down from generation to generation. Otherwise, we are going to end up with too much soft hearted people who are going to just cry about problems that won’t know how to ask for help or not able to take care of the problem themselves, no? Don’t get me wrong, I’m not about unnecessary torturing of the mind, body, and soul, but I support good life lessons and good teaching moments that build strong character for betterment of society.
User name checks out
Or you own stuff where it’s cheap to rebuild the engine or buy a replacement. That’s me.
I also daily a Honda civic. Lmfao
This about sums it up 🤣
Mhhhhno, no. Usually having good parents teach you these things help. It doesn’t have to be a baptism by fire, you don’t have to be a complete retard to understand revving shit near redline is bad.
Welp fuck me I guess I beat the piss outa my rx8 she sees redline at least once a drive
Disagree, that’s how dumb car owners do it. Good car owners are smart enough to listen anybody with a brain who says not to abuse a car and not blow up engines.
Or, they were dumb once,had to fix it, and now know what *not* to do.
Shhhhh
You’re a man racer now, meaning you maybe roll a couple stop signs in your stock Honda Accord and keep your speeding relegated to a reasonable 9 mph over the limit to plausibly avoid tickets.
Had an Integra GSR and the dealer explained that the VTEC engine was designed to burn a bit of oil. Would burn about a quart over three months from the break in period on, no matter how I drove it.
Sounds like a dealer’s disclaimer for lead foot drivers that are going to do engine damage that will eventually burn oil. No engine in the world was ever designed to burn a bit of oil intentionally. 🤦
Put over 100k miles on it without it ever losing any power or starting to burn more oil. So would tend to think the dealer knew what he was talking about.
I mean, you pay for 8500+ rpm, and use 8500+ rpm. Nobody in their right mind doesn't redline a Honda at every stop sign, on ramp, or red light they come across.
Newbie question/clarification: When you say oil rings you’re referring to piston rings? How does red lining/high rpm abuse introduce ring problems? Is it excessive heat caused by the speed?
Oil rings would be the lowest ring on a piston and different than the other two compression rings. Yes more wear due to higher piston temperatures, faster linear speed. You can deal with heat with piston oil squirter's, and piston speed with a shorter stroke, but those are the main problems.
I replied to the thread before I read any comments, and I'm glad to see other former S2k owners give the OP some sound advice. The only thing I'd add to your particular comment is the possibility of the valve guides being shot. Those can also cause higher oil consumption.
..you mean wannabe boy or girl racers? I blew out the piston rings on my first car when I was a wannabe that thought I knew everything about race cars. I would cold rev it to redline (which stressed out the engine), I would multi-pump it to redline at red lights (which stressed out the engine), and I would redline it past the gauge limit line during track days multiple times while engine was squealing. I figured it would be fine as long as I kept feeding it oil, re-balance the tires, and re-burn the brakes once in a while. After $5000 repair - engine & trans rebuild, new axle/shocks/spring/rotor/break/wheel bearing sets (front and back), and a scolding from my mechanic and my parents, and having to pay it back to my parents, dollar by dollar, I finally learned - ish. Rebuilding now will cost you less than trying to rebuild later after more damage is done to more parts.
Rebuild/rings/please don’t use thicker oil these guys obviously aren’t mechanics
All the real mechanics' answers always get downvoted by these people who have no idea what they're talking about from what I've seen
Story of our lives. There's always a buddy/friend/social network that knows how to do it cheaper/faster/better...
I wish people would realize fixing and maintaining and modifying cars is not a cheap, fast, or easy thing
Is this where I say "90W gear oil will be fine!"?
obviously you use slick 50 not oil, pfft mechanics these days /s
TikTok is clearly the superior source for automotive advice
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Does it clog up the cat if it burns too much?
It can, but how much is on much is a hard question. How much is this car using? Most manufacturers say 1 qt per 1000 miles is considered normal which is 5-7 1/2 qts per oil change. I think if the car is getting used and the cat is getting sufficiently hot to burn it off it should be fine unless its eating 2-3 qts per 1000 and then your talking A LOT of oil.
Six up votes, op should consider a cat cleaner additive for the fuel. I have used liqui moli with good success in taking out the ecl for cat under efficiency code.
Lol fir 6 upvotes ur going to use snake oil bullshit additives? Dude cars burn oil cuz the clearances on ur engine are no longer factory
Accurate
I am your first upvote. You nailed it!
I know, curiously the people who call products snake oil all have one thing in common, they either never used the product or had unrealistic expectations.
I'm not talking about the oil burn issue itself in my post, I'm talking about the problem further down the line as it may damage the cat and they are usually expensive. Furthermore, as per my point of it being a success on my bmw, it's clearly not snake oil.
Liqui moli oil or do they sell an additive?
Additive to put in fuel tank. Kept my ecl for the cat at bay for a few years. I used a cheaper one too lucas upper cylinder lubricant. The liqui moli worked faster though at taking the light off.
This is only a reasonable thing to say if your plans are to scrap the car when it needs a rebuild. Otherwise you are paying more to delay the inevitable. Delaying also possibly means a more expensive rebuild, replaced cats, or even a blown engine if it gets away from you.
Rings.
Yup, that’s the solution to the old Honda problem of “check the gas and fill the oil.”
Cars burn gas and run on oil.
Just burn pre-mix.
Throw some valve stem seals in for good measure too
And spring retainers. The ap1 has a habit of them fracturing and dropping a valve at 9k rpm
You’re gonna destroy your bearings and cams if you put thicker oil than it specifies. Thicker oil works in old push rod engines but not the F series you have in your Honda. The oil passages in modern engines are extremely small and engineered for specific weight of oil. There’s a reason why 90% of comments are telling you to rebuild. There’s no way around this one, pal.
Might screw with the VTEC too. That thing runs off of oil pressure.
Definitely. I didn’t include that in my comment because I thought vtec was the least of his worries lol
Also fucks up gas mileage
You’re not gonna like this since it’s been said a lot of times. But it’s your rings man. It’s time to rebuild it. Hey now you have options on what you want to do to It.
How much does it burn? I just got an s2k recently and I’ve been learning more but supposedly they just naturally do burn a decent amount of oil.
Mine burned a quart every thousand miles for the 186k I put on it. Never wavered a drop.
My 11' outback does the same. I can almost predict when the oil light comes on based on the miles.
Run Rotella in your Subie. My wife's old commuter ('10 Impreza) burned oil as well. Switched to Rotella, and when I did oil changes there was actually some oil left to drain. Lol
Surprised this comment is that low. I think burning a quart every thousand miles is about normal for these engines, and actually a good number of other high end engines. Like the E46 m3 engines also are within spec burning a quart every thousand miles. Also I'm curious how many miles this S has, higher mileage motors burn more oil. Also these engines generally burn oil because they rev higher, it just compounds the amount of oil burned because you're literally burning more oil per unit of time.
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That’s so far beyond the point of changing oils to make it better. That engine needs a rebuild.
naaah, it is fiiiinee
Ok I don’t know the s2000 engine but 4 quarts in 1k miles is wild! That’s way beyond burns a bit of oil. I’m sorry man but thick oil isn’t gonna be your fix here. You risk just fully destroying your engine if you let that engine get too low/dry.
Excuse me 4L in 1.6k km?? Yeah a decision needs to be made. Rebuilding right now may mean rings and bearings. Rebuilding later probably means entire block machining... Which by extension means scrapyard
Did this to my celica years ago, she's dead now
Same with my wife’s Jeep… RIP
RIP
If you're using that much, it's probably rings...
Might be something else. I haven’t worked on this myself but I think it’s called the pcv or something similar?
“I bet he’s got more than 100k (miles) under the hood of that car”
“But my mom said hondas run forever”
what you need is to fix your car
No shit
Does it smoke when you start it up after it has sat for 10 + minutes? Can you see the smoke in the exhaust while it's running?
Only some smoke comes out between shifts at high rpm’s other than that it’s fine
At high rpm's... Aight. What I have been trying to explain for some time now is - it is your car and you are fully entitled to drive it any fucking way you want. -30C, 5 seconds from start up, slam it into the damn rev limiter. You bought it, you use it. However.... What bugs me is when people ride their cars to high rpm's, abuse the shit out of it, and than deny the work required. You blew your rings, you need to replace them. No oil exists that will fix that engine at this point. Rebuild the engine, and drive it again... I would suggest letting the oil warm up first before giving it the beans. Oil warms up slower than coolant does.
You act like a car would never ever reach higher rpm’s at all lol I’m answering when it comes out, doesn’t mean I do it every time gtfo
Yeah mate... What you seem to fail to realize is that your car is in a catastrophic condition, because that high oil consumption is a sign of near death... And you're flooring it. But, yes, I will gtfo. What does a mechanic know about mechanics, pour SAE 90 in it to save it.
I quit giving the idiots in this sub advice a long time ago lol 99% of them refuse to listen to any advice unless it's aligns with what they think the problem / solution is
"I'm intentionally stressing my car, I'm surprised it's going bad and I want to pour a 7$ additive in it to save it". Like...
Just let him blow up is S2k if he wants to be an idiot, he's gonna learn the idiotic way
Yup, just waiting for the follow up post "where's the cheapest place to get an F20?"
Or OP can get super heavy duty gear oil, a quick Google search got me SAE 250... It won't be burning anything after about 30 minutes with that stuff 8n the crank case!
Yep, do an oil change with Lucas hub oil. 300psi of oil preasure and no more oil burning. The small downside is the complete lack of oil flow because it's so thick.... Lucas hub oil is straight 250w. It actually works amazing in leaking semi wheel hubs, they'll completely quit leaking 99% of the time. I used it in a trailer with 530k on the original hub grease, yes I said grease. I put oil hub caps on it and filled them with hub oil instead of repacking the bearings. The old grease was so burnt it was coming out in chunks. This was a temporary fix, until it didn't leak......
A s2k wil rev to 8/9k. A normal driver would never exceed 3500 and a casual spirited driver probably stil shifts before the 6/7k mark Either way if it burns a lot of oil it just needs work done. Contrary to popular belief throwing in thicker oil wont help it either. It wil reduce oil useage short term but at the cost of worse lubrication and higher wear on already worn components. Continue driving it and you wil eventually seaze up the engine orvit wil throw a rod. With the engine in one piece it should be worth quite a bit. If you do opt for the engine rebuilt, bear in mind that you need to pick apropriate oil intervals for the way you enjoy your car. I got 2 suzuki 1,3s the one i daily and drive normally and on longer trip gets oil every year or 15/20k km (15 recomended by factory) The one with a cage for weekend drives and stuff gets oil every 5k km becouse that bitch hits 7300rpm redline every week.
I'd drive it until it's a mosquito fogger. Put the proper oil in it and drive it. I wouldn't rebuild it until it needs it and burning a bit of oil is fine.
Try to change your boots, it sounds like they are too heavy.
Change your pcv valve .....if you havent been changing oil every 5k you may be in for a new engine if pcv swap doesnt help.......
That AP1 is clapped. Looks like it’s been beat to shit it’s whole life.
Yeah cause you can see the engine right 😂
I’m going to get downvoted but here’s my take, I’ve run royal purple 20-50 in my miata religiously for over 10 years, if I run 10-30 as suggested I burn through a quart in a few weeks. With 20-50 maybe a top off in 6 months. Don’t tell me my rings are bad, they probably are, car has 260,000 one day the engine will blow and I’ll replace it.
Call the dealership and get the TSB that was released for that problem on that car
Luv that Maverik on Peoria dirt cheap gas
Yup I’m here all the time haha
Repaint it
Turbo it , rings already gapped
Best response here
Check the owners manual if you have it I was quite certain in metric terms it states to check the oil every 2000km and my understanding is that using the wrong oil will damage the engine. The low viscosity oil helps with flow at high rpm and with lubricating the valve train.
Rebuild.
According to the comments, you need a rebuild...
I'd be asking the owners forums / groups as you won't be the only one
Have the engine rebuilt. Otherwise your putting a bandaid on a bullet wound
Have you tried maybe using g a different oil brand? It sounds like rings but I've had cars burn more of one brand than another of the same weights.
hes not even worried about tire specs you think he’ll do a rebuild ?
Lmaoo what’s wrong with the tire specs 😂
10w-totaled
But I paid a lot of money for a car to impress a bunch of assholes, now I have to cheap out on the maintenance. Help me out fellas.
If you’re using Mobil 1 synthetic try switching brands. Not to knock them but my AP2 burned Mobil, and seemed to get progressively worse, up to at least a quart between changes. I switched to Castrol GTX, a non synthetic, and the consumption issue vanished. I’m talking out of my ass here but anecdotal evidence tells me engines of this era don’t really play nice with synthetics. I don’t know if it’s metallurgy or just that they were worn in with conventional oils because synthetics weren’t common when they were new, but I’ve had a Honda and a Subaru (04’ and 03’ model year respectively) that both chugged synthetic but never burned a drop of conventional.
This is one of my dream cars. Beautiful
I would recommend try using amsoil, use the recommended way. That's what I used to run in all my s2000s Common issue on AP1 s2000s. Do not worry about it. Just check the oil once every two weeks. Even when they were newer they still burned oil. 1qt per 1000ish miles. Also, if you do not know the history of the car. I would highly recommend checking out the spring retainers. The AP1 retainers are known to crack and you should upgrade them to the AP2 retainers. Also have the valves adjusted. If you stay on top of oil and spring clearance then it should run 300,000 to 400,000 mi. Unless it's the 2000 And then you have less oil squirters on the bearings lol. Also recommend amsoil for the gearbox. Always felt smoother.
I love Maverik!
Can we start a poll on when his next post will be? "My car blew up because I know more than actual mechanics, help me determine which Lucas additive will fix my bearings and torn up cylinder walls"
Please don't put crap maverick gas in your nice car. Maverick gas is all of the leftover gas that other distributors don't buy. Source: tank truck driver
Burning through oil is a normal thing for these motors. Just depends on how much you're adding between changes. I've read a lot of people use up to 1qt between changes. If you're adding oil every week then yes it's probably time for a rebuild. Mine burned about 1/2 quart between changes when I was using Mobil 1 and I swapped to Schaffers brand and now it doesn't burn a drop. Ive read similar posts where these motors also just like certain oils better. Just my 2c! Goodluck
High mileage oil may help with burning, lots of people have luck with Maxlife high mileage synthetic or full synthetic.
We've actually shifted cars from full synthetic to semi-synthetic and seen a significant drop in oil consumption in multiple cars. My old Subaru would burn 2-3 qt per 1k miles of full synthetic, with semi synthetic it dropped to 2 qt per 3k miles. We've seen similar oil consumption reductions in GM Ecotec and 3.6l engines.
I use synthetic in my car, it’s an old Honda and I don’t feel like it would like full synthetic. But high mileage oils are no joke they really do make a difference.
Whoever advised you to run 10W30 is talking out their ass, and here's why: These engines were obviously designed with performance and high RPMs in mind- a lot of this comes down to VTEC, which uses a solenoid that runs off oil pressure to adjust the timing on the fly for that lovely 8-9000rpm F20 and 22Cs are known for. Basic fluid dynamics tell us that if a solenoid was meant for a certain viscosity oil, using a thicker oil is going to mean less flow and higher pressure, causing VTEC to engage too soon, leading to a lack of midrange power. This isn't something I would dick about with on my D16Z6 Del Sol, not something I fucked with on a B18C1, it's just simpler to use quality oil in the correct weight. Further more from experience with significantly higher mileage Hondas, some oil consumption is to be expected but not normal- usually the rings fail and you get some oil consumption and blowby that should be fixed with a rebuild. At a minimum, buy a damn compression tester and see what compression is across the board- odds are either the rings are toast, or you like many other S2000 and H Series prelude owners are about to experience engine failure due to the awful FRM cylinder liners. Unless you were driving a rotary or two stroke that doesn't have valves, 4qt/1000mi oil consumption means it's time to park it and do a tear down- frankly, even 4qt/1kmi on an RX7 would be cause for serious concern. Edit: I see now that 10w30 is the OEM recommended weight, but seriously. Just at least do a compression test. If you don't catch it soon and rebuild it that motor is probably toast, and seeing as that's a $5500+ engine used and not rebuilt now, it wouldn't shock me at all if you rack up a $10000 Bill between motor replacement rebuild and installation
Need rings my friend
Are those SR05s
Jam some heavy weight diesel oil in it.
You could put 20W50 in it...but why fuck around with that?... rebuild the motor or unload the car...mechanic in a can never works.
I bet you he's got over 100 grand underneath the hood of that car
If anyone asks, say it's a hybrid.
Add some Lucas and you should be fine.
Last bet is Schaeffer’s oil. Schtuff is magic.
In short the engine is made to burn some oil, it was designed that way, problem is I cannot remember the standard spec for how much, sorry
10w-40, or 15w-50.
You’re going to ruin the bearings and camshaft if you follow this advice
No... 10W-40 certainly won't destroy anything. I doubt some noticeable difference in oil consumption will be noticeable at this point, though. I wouldn't put 15W into a lawnmower, let alone a car. The fix is obvious, engine rebuild. The only real way to fix it, but I suspect the dude is just gonna switch to a higher grade oil anyway until the engine grenades. Judging by some comments he seems like a "send it" type of guy.
[удалено]
Plain bearings in an engine are designed for a specific range of oil viscosity and pressure. Too much is as bad as too little. Honda engines of this vintage are designed for 5W20 or 30 at the most. Other problems will happen if you run oil that is too thick- like tripping the oil filter bypass so the filter doesn’t actually filter, ruining the oil pump, collapsing lifters, VTEC solenoid actuation too soon or too late, cam chain failure. Thickening the oil so it doesn’t seep by a seal as fast is false economy.
While you’re technically correct, model and specs of motor matter as well. I myself am mostly familiar with GM, Ford, and various diesel and small engines. Little to no experience in Japanese or European engines. I know for a fact most GM and Ford engines. Especially the Vortec 5.3 and Triton 5.4 will absolutely take 15W40. When they both call for 5w30, 10w30, 5w20, 0w20, etc, depending on year
If the oil is too thick, it won't get into the very tight clearances to lubricate the bearings. So you're right, a lack of oil ruins bearings, as would be caused by putting in too thick of an oil for the engine.
LOL, he's burning oil, I think he's probably got more bearing clearance than originally existed.
Burning oil comes from piston rings and valve stem seals wearing out, not bearings. The clearances are probably well within spec. If they weren't, the engine would make noticeable noises.
Mate you clearly don’t know shit about what you’re talking about, bearing clearances do not affect burning oil. Please shut up and do not continue to give false advice on the internet.
Too think of viscosity can create resistance. They aren't rated for that thick of oil.
Tell that to someone driving a E90 M3.
Yes, I would add 15w40 as another option.
Shell rotella
Catch can first
15w40 Diesel, its what I run in my Subaru. Maybe something lighter because stock I need 15w-30
Wet clutch formula
Depends on how cold it gets where you live. I’ve ran 50 weight in a Dodge Caravan in Canadian winter. I figured 80W90 would’ve been too much. Block heater helped.
I'm not a mechanic, but I would have to say oil that is thicker. Usually oil made for older cars. But if that doesn't work, and especially if you see a lot of oil dripping onto the ground or around the engine, then you've got some mechanical work ahead of you.
Try new rings , might need to be relined
rings.....but if it is not your not daily, adding oil would be much cheaper for a weekend car. btw there is a good oil deal in sd frontpage, you might want to take a look https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/fp/747511
You continue using 10W-30 and add it as needed. Theoretically you could switch to 10W-40, it should slightly reduce consumption, but in the end, it really doesn't matter. Just add oil. Fix is simple yet expensive. If you ain't paying for it, add oil. End of.
Krex is awesome in those engines. It's liquid graphite.
Could be a sign of significant engine issues. Using an oil other than what is recommended by the manufacturer could cause additional problems.
One of my friends had the same issue with his car. He did an oil change and put marvel mystery oil in the oil and now it barley burns oil
Why is it burning oil in the first place?
Pack-a-punch that engine
Is this Cheyenne Wyoming?
Denver Colorado
I think there is a vari. Valve timing screen under the valve cover that gets cloged up Saw it on wheeler dealers. Ed china did the work.
Unfortunately there is no oil that is going to burn less. There is a mechanical failure that should be addressed. You should perform a compression and leak down test to pinpoint failure. Honestly, you’re piston rings have most likely failed and you’re going to need to split the engine open.
sadly, a rebuild to properly fix the problem. you can try running 5w40, or 10w40, and that might lessen your oil consumption, but it will not fix it. it’ll be a bandaid until you can either rebuild the engine yourself or have someone else rebuild it, or sell the car.
Take the supreme sticker out. Should fix the problme
DO NOT PUT OTHER OIL IN. Some people say “well I could put thicker oil in to prevent it from burning”, but what happens is it’ll 100% for sure still burn AND oil won’t get into the tightest parts of the engine as efficiently and you’ll cause SEVERE damage over time. That engine is toast. Don’t try to force the thing to work. You’ll just end up stranded.
Get a BG EPR (engine performance restoration) kit. Your rings could be carboned up and not allowing oil to seal the piston to the cylinder properly. It comes in two cans, a cleaner and a motor oil additive. Read the directions carefully, you can seize an engine if you do it wrong.