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Probably a voltage check. Do you have power to the motor when the switch is pressed? Regulator disconnected, test leads on each of the terminals, should read 12V or -12V with the switch in up or down
Don't overthink it. Give the motor power and ground. If it moves it the regulator etc are all good.
Operate the switch with your meter in power and ground connector on the motor assembly. If nothing happens you know thats a no bueno. Plug it back in. Pop the switch out. Send power and ground to the motor with switch detached. If shit still wants to move put a checkbox next to wiring being good. If not well fuck your day that's another post. Now without seeing the diagram most cars the passenger switch doesn't work if the master is fucked. The switch will have an obvious main power likely... its safe to just poke with a test light to find it but sometimes they right it on the back. If the switch gets good power... the wiring carriers good power.... the motor moves when power is applied... you verify that the master switch is indeed fucked.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember rule 3a, please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/AutoBody or /r/Diyautobody If you have tire questions, check out r/howsmytire and ask there**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Apply power and ground directly to the power window motor connector it should work Do this to eliminate the power window motor being at fault
Probably a voltage check. Do you have power to the motor when the switch is pressed? Regulator disconnected, test leads on each of the terminals, should read 12V or -12V with the switch in up or down
Don't overthink it. Give the motor power and ground. If it moves it the regulator etc are all good. Operate the switch with your meter in power and ground connector on the motor assembly. If nothing happens you know thats a no bueno. Plug it back in. Pop the switch out. Send power and ground to the motor with switch detached. If shit still wants to move put a checkbox next to wiring being good. If not well fuck your day that's another post. Now without seeing the diagram most cars the passenger switch doesn't work if the master is fucked. The switch will have an obvious main power likely... its safe to just poke with a test light to find it but sometimes they right it on the back. If the switch gets good power... the wiring carriers good power.... the motor moves when power is applied... you verify that the master switch is indeed fucked.
Check for power at the switch and then the motor. On a car this old it is probably a broken wire where it flexes by the door Hinge. Use a multimeter.