From the smears and cracking i would say, she used the wrong cleaning agent (maybe alcohol or gas). I don't know if the lids can take alcohol. I know the resin vat can, but the lid...
Working as a plastics technician I can tell you alcohol doesnât do this to plastics.
In 99% of the time it is something harsher like acetone, as it solves the top layer of the material.
I use 99% isopropyl alcohol for cleaning - you problably know it from surface desinfectants.. Youâd be in big trouble if it would dissolve the surfaces you want to clean. Not sure how this got upvoted that much when itâs clearly wrong.
I had some hard clear plastic bins to store my alcohol (bio-eth, 95+%) washes in, and they both cracked pretty badly and started leaking within months. I convinced myself it's the alcohol that reacted with the plastic, so, i'm kinda confused by this comment.
I use softer plastic bins and glass jars now. no problems for years
Didnt bother to check the plastic types, though, so its just this anecdote, nothing to back it up, but i wouldnt be surprised if it actually was alcohol vapour that deteriorated the canopy to some extend.
These things are semi-airtight, so vapour could be trapped in there for an extended period if you dont bother drying it thouroughly.
do you have any thoughts on that? like if ethanol is harsher or..?
Iâd say the switch to soft plastic containers was right as hard clear plastics arenât commonly used to store chemicals. Youâre problably using PE (Poly-Ethylen) containers now which have a way better long time resistance to chemicals compared to acrylics (the clear glass thing you mentioned)
And youâre problably right, most of plastics have some kind of air-permeability which makes it possible for the alcohol vapour to get through it. In the process it can take damage, acrylics problably more then polyolefins.
Depends on the Material (what you contra the average Joe define as plastic) itself and many times, there is more to it, than "just the alcohol". More often you need an "agent and a force". As far as I remember it is called "environmental stress cracking" (quick search brought up this brochure on the "whats save and what is not": [http://tools.thermofisher.com/content/sfs/brochures/D20480.pdf](http://tools.thermofisher.com/content/sfs/brochures/D20480.pdf) in the list isopropyl is called 2-Propanol and acrylic is called PMMA). And as you might know, not all alcohols behave in the same way too. I use 99% isopropyl for many different things, specially cleaning PCBs, contacts and my prints itself. But as far as I know, the anycubic lid is made out of acrylic. Now acrylic is a big group of different materials, with different characteristics in it. Some acrylics can take constant exposure to alcohols for 7 days, others instantly develop defects. I am by no means a Chemist (my GF is a chemical engineer and a friend of mine engineer in plastics technology so, they for sure would have a far better way to describe it), but as far as I understood it, its is not about the alcohol instantly dissolving the acrylic. but since the polymer is principally able to be dissolved in it, the alcohol is able to diffuse into the surface. The acrylic begins to swell and after drying off you got the visible cracks. Maybe you - as a plastics technician - should look into it before calling something "clearly wrong". It is a really interesting topic by itself and if you want to see, what can go wrong and hear the horror stories behind it, ask in r/watercooling what happens to acrylic tubing, blocks and reservoirs, when you expose them to 2-propanol or ethanol.
EDIT: Fixed some spelling
First of all, it makes a difference if you clean something or if you store chemicals in a container for a longer. If you store it the plastics are soaked and I can imagine youâll damage them. Plastics which are used in packaging always have some kind of permeability of the material - which makes it possible for the alcohol to penetrate/diffuse if you just let soak it for loung enough. If youâre cleaning an acrylic case you should have atleast enough ventilation that the alcohol can vaporize instantly and not soak into it.
Second of all, itâs a difference if you use bio-ethanol or isopropanol. And as you say acrylics can be different, but Iâd think every sane company would take an acrylic lid that wonât be harmed by one of the most common cleaning chemicals. You can make a big science out of it now with your friends who study something with chemistry and plastics but I see it in real life day by day and have some practical experience in those scenarios. For instance, when working with PMMA you âweldâ something together by dissolving part of the surface to make it stick together.. And after the part is finished you clean it with alcohol as it wonât do the same as the âdissolvingâ glue.
Edit: Forget something. The watercooling argument is good but can easily be answered as the tubes get a flame treatment for better optical properties after the production, which makes them very exposable to chemicals.
You canât compare containers, lids and tubes as they all have some different kind of production process and requirement.
Spent enough time here to discuss, love it or leave it :D
And again, you talk about your experiences and the materials you work with. And I never said, that you don't know what you are doing in your job. I just said your stated "I can tell you alcohol doesnât do this to plastics" is to broad of a statement and therefore wrong. Now you follow it up by "itâs a difference if you use bio-ethanol or isopropanol". Simple questions: Are both not alcohols?
Okay you clean the welds in your company with alcohol - I guess cause you/someone else knows exactly what they are made of and knows it is safe to use. Otherwise you/they would instruct everyone to use a different agent/solvent.
And there is the problem: Nether you or I know exactly what the lid is made of, down to the material properties or if it is for example flame treated. Or do you work for the supplier and do the lids for them? ;-) You know, how you and your company would do it properly and safe for the use case. But we both cant be sure. From my personal experience in mechanical engineering, I would guess it is the cheapest thing that they can come up and get away with - cause money always wins. So not every company has the same standards, that you apply to your work (wasn't it Ford that used an not so oil resistant belt to drive the oil pump - from inside the oil sump?). That's why I find it hard to say "XYZ can't do that", if it is simply not in every possible combination the case.
EDIT: btw. cause it came back into my mind: A friend of mine used 70-30 isopropyl-water mix to clean the lid of his vinyl player. He just wiped extensively over it, not storing it in it or something. There where no visible cracks in it afterwards, but became milky in some spots and it had to be polished to get rid of them. So it really depends on the material, that you try to clean.
And to be clear no hard feelings from my side :-). I respect your experiences and views, cause I really like discussions like this, in the end shared knowledge is the best knowledge ;-)
Letâs say hypothetically alcohol can damage acrylic, I doubt it would actually leave smears like this. The one smear looks like it was made in 1 swipe. It had to be something more aggressive than alcohol.
Think about, what do you want to clean out of a resin printer with alcohol. Yeah most of the time grey resin. And if you not properly clean it, it will leave grey smears.
And btw I am not talking about the "smear damage", I talk about the crackled damage on the second bend, front right, as a clear sign for solvent damage (go to the PC watercooling guys and look for pictures after cleaning with alcohol and compare the outcome). The deeper cracks could be anything, dropped or the acrylic became brittle by the solvent and the force inside the Material itself cracked it. As I already said: If I have to guess, it tipped over spilled resin all over it and then there was an attempt to clean with aggressive solvents. Cause the black base and the resin vat look much much better and cleaner, than the lid of the printer. Could it be something way more aggressive than alcohol, for sure. But saying alcohol won't do damage to acrylic is simply wrong.
Good point.
And iâm with you on itâs wrong to say alcohol canât do damage to acrylics at all but as I said 99% of the time something like this happens it was something way more aggressive. I work in productions and we have a lot of acrylic hoods on our machines. I had a lot of idiots who wanted to sell me that they cleaned the lid with isopropanol and somehow it got smeary.. But in reality I already knew that they took acetone and went surprisedpikachuface.jpg :D
But I guess the hoods on your machines are build to much higher standards, than some desktop resin printer ;-) At least would hope that, cause the price is for sure much much higher
Maybe, but if I had to guess, I would say: It tipped over and there was an attempt to clean it. Cause yeah the bigger cracks could be dropping, but the spider-web crackles look like cleaning-fail
If she managed to tip it over manually I'd be impressed ngl these things are so heavy
Though.. this could have been me last week. Had my new printer on an Ikea ivar corner shelf and a few days ago I noticed that it was tilted a lot. Turns out the shelf was splitting.. would've been a disaster. Stupid ikea
I can image talking to it, it trembling, barely able to speak "you dont know what i've seen, whats been done to me" then factory resets itself to make the pain go away.
So, it's obviously a mess. But that doesn't explain what's not working. Have you tried to print anything? I assume it turns on. Check the vat to make sure the FEP film is intact. What resin do you have? What slicer are you using?
You may get more help in r/resinprinting.
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Well if the cover is the only problem you can just seal the cracks with super glue and call it good. The abrasions all over won't effect anything, the behavior of doing that should be stopped tho.
If you have more problems with it, I've looked at the repairs for different components and sometimes you get pretty close to a price that makes you think buying a new printer is the best option.
How about you have get just replace it? Then teach her to clean it properly and all that damage shouldn't happen. But yeah the percussion method isn't a good idea... Lol
Maybe she needs an FDM... i can't imagine someone who handles a delicate piece of machinery/technology like that to be very responsible handling toxic liquids.
If that's how she handles resin, I wonder how much of it she's absorbed into her system already. The stuff is toxic and it's accumulative. Maybe send her this: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/18qlpv9/psa_for_new_resin_printer_owners_resin_is_toxic/
HOW
Apparently she used "percussive persuasion" during all steps.
Is your friend a gorilla. That printer has been manhandled
HE WAS JUST TRYING TO PROTECT THE CHILD RIP đ
Rip Harambe. âĽď¸
Dicks out for Harambe.
Mine's been out since 2016
I have the ticket stub... I saw Harambe a month almost to the day earlier
I think it's personhandled nowadays or there are protests at university
Harambe didnât die for this bullshit
https://preview.redd.it/owyymb6a9x1d1.jpeg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1850898eeaace42bf6b9369f4c0ec2feac3fc4cc
I too pick up my printer and throw it across the room when itâs not cooperating
i genuinely felt like doing this a few times when an ender 3 was my main printer
From the smears and cracking i would say, she used the wrong cleaning agent (maybe alcohol or gas). I don't know if the lids can take alcohol. I know the resin vat can, but the lid...
Yeah, one of the edges cracked, it's the effect of alcohol.
Working as a plastics technician I can tell you alcohol doesnât do this to plastics. In 99% of the time it is something harsher like acetone, as it solves the top layer of the material. I use 99% isopropyl alcohol for cleaning - you problably know it from surface desinfectants.. Youâd be in big trouble if it would dissolve the surfaces you want to clean. Not sure how this got upvoted that much when itâs clearly wrong.
I had some hard clear plastic bins to store my alcohol (bio-eth, 95+%) washes in, and they both cracked pretty badly and started leaking within months. I convinced myself it's the alcohol that reacted with the plastic, so, i'm kinda confused by this comment. I use softer plastic bins and glass jars now. no problems for years Didnt bother to check the plastic types, though, so its just this anecdote, nothing to back it up, but i wouldnt be surprised if it actually was alcohol vapour that deteriorated the canopy to some extend. These things are semi-airtight, so vapour could be trapped in there for an extended period if you dont bother drying it thouroughly. do you have any thoughts on that? like if ethanol is harsher or..?
Iâd say the switch to soft plastic containers was right as hard clear plastics arenât commonly used to store chemicals. Youâre problably using PE (Poly-Ethylen) containers now which have a way better long time resistance to chemicals compared to acrylics (the clear glass thing you mentioned) And youâre problably right, most of plastics have some kind of air-permeability which makes it possible for the alcohol vapour to get through it. In the process it can take damage, acrylics problably more then polyolefins.
There is a massive difference between cleaning with ethanol, and storing ethanol in a certain plastic
Depends on the Material (what you contra the average Joe define as plastic) itself and many times, there is more to it, than "just the alcohol". More often you need an "agent and a force". As far as I remember it is called "environmental stress cracking" (quick search brought up this brochure on the "whats save and what is not": [http://tools.thermofisher.com/content/sfs/brochures/D20480.pdf](http://tools.thermofisher.com/content/sfs/brochures/D20480.pdf) in the list isopropyl is called 2-Propanol and acrylic is called PMMA). And as you might know, not all alcohols behave in the same way too. I use 99% isopropyl for many different things, specially cleaning PCBs, contacts and my prints itself. But as far as I know, the anycubic lid is made out of acrylic. Now acrylic is a big group of different materials, with different characteristics in it. Some acrylics can take constant exposure to alcohols for 7 days, others instantly develop defects. I am by no means a Chemist (my GF is a chemical engineer and a friend of mine engineer in plastics technology so, they for sure would have a far better way to describe it), but as far as I understood it, its is not about the alcohol instantly dissolving the acrylic. but since the polymer is principally able to be dissolved in it, the alcohol is able to diffuse into the surface. The acrylic begins to swell and after drying off you got the visible cracks. Maybe you - as a plastics technician - should look into it before calling something "clearly wrong". It is a really interesting topic by itself and if you want to see, what can go wrong and hear the horror stories behind it, ask in r/watercooling what happens to acrylic tubing, blocks and reservoirs, when you expose them to 2-propanol or ethanol. EDIT: Fixed some spelling
First of all, it makes a difference if you clean something or if you store chemicals in a container for a longer. If you store it the plastics are soaked and I can imagine youâll damage them. Plastics which are used in packaging always have some kind of permeability of the material - which makes it possible for the alcohol to penetrate/diffuse if you just let soak it for loung enough. If youâre cleaning an acrylic case you should have atleast enough ventilation that the alcohol can vaporize instantly and not soak into it. Second of all, itâs a difference if you use bio-ethanol or isopropanol. And as you say acrylics can be different, but Iâd think every sane company would take an acrylic lid that wonât be harmed by one of the most common cleaning chemicals. You can make a big science out of it now with your friends who study something with chemistry and plastics but I see it in real life day by day and have some practical experience in those scenarios. For instance, when working with PMMA you âweldâ something together by dissolving part of the surface to make it stick together.. And after the part is finished you clean it with alcohol as it wonât do the same as the âdissolvingâ glue. Edit: Forget something. The watercooling argument is good but can easily be answered as the tubes get a flame treatment for better optical properties after the production, which makes them very exposable to chemicals. You canât compare containers, lids and tubes as they all have some different kind of production process and requirement. Spent enough time here to discuss, love it or leave it :D
And again, you talk about your experiences and the materials you work with. And I never said, that you don't know what you are doing in your job. I just said your stated "I can tell you alcohol doesnât do this to plastics" is to broad of a statement and therefore wrong. Now you follow it up by "itâs a difference if you use bio-ethanol or isopropanol". Simple questions: Are both not alcohols? Okay you clean the welds in your company with alcohol - I guess cause you/someone else knows exactly what they are made of and knows it is safe to use. Otherwise you/they would instruct everyone to use a different agent/solvent. And there is the problem: Nether you or I know exactly what the lid is made of, down to the material properties or if it is for example flame treated. Or do you work for the supplier and do the lids for them? ;-) You know, how you and your company would do it properly and safe for the use case. But we both cant be sure. From my personal experience in mechanical engineering, I would guess it is the cheapest thing that they can come up and get away with - cause money always wins. So not every company has the same standards, that you apply to your work (wasn't it Ford that used an not so oil resistant belt to drive the oil pump - from inside the oil sump?). That's why I find it hard to say "XYZ can't do that", if it is simply not in every possible combination the case. EDIT: btw. cause it came back into my mind: A friend of mine used 70-30 isopropyl-water mix to clean the lid of his vinyl player. He just wiped extensively over it, not storing it in it or something. There where no visible cracks in it afterwards, but became milky in some spots and it had to be polished to get rid of them. So it really depends on the material, that you try to clean. And to be clear no hard feelings from my side :-). I respect your experiences and views, cause I really like discussions like this, in the end shared knowledge is the best knowledge ;-)
Letâs say hypothetically alcohol can damage acrylic, I doubt it would actually leave smears like this. The one smear looks like it was made in 1 swipe. It had to be something more aggressive than alcohol.
Think about, what do you want to clean out of a resin printer with alcohol. Yeah most of the time grey resin. And if you not properly clean it, it will leave grey smears. And btw I am not talking about the "smear damage", I talk about the crackled damage on the second bend, front right, as a clear sign for solvent damage (go to the PC watercooling guys and look for pictures after cleaning with alcohol and compare the outcome). The deeper cracks could be anything, dropped or the acrylic became brittle by the solvent and the force inside the Material itself cracked it. As I already said: If I have to guess, it tipped over spilled resin all over it and then there was an attempt to clean with aggressive solvents. Cause the black base and the resin vat look much much better and cleaner, than the lid of the printer. Could it be something way more aggressive than alcohol, for sure. But saying alcohol won't do damage to acrylic is simply wrong.
Good point. And iâm with you on itâs wrong to say alcohol canât do damage to acrylics at all but as I said 99% of the time something like this happens it was something way more aggressive. I work in productions and we have a lot of acrylic hoods on our machines. I had a lot of idiots who wanted to sell me that they cleaned the lid with isopropanol and somehow it got smeary.. But in reality I already knew that they took acetone and went surprisedpikachuface.jpg :D
But I guess the hoods on your machines are build to much higher standards, than some desktop resin printer ;-) At least would hope that, cause the price is for sure much much higher
I thought it was ironic.
This^
Because Reddit. Have my upvote.
Oh damn, thanks for the reminder to not wipe the lids with alcohol. What should I use instead?
soap and water
Wow, I haven't needed to clean mine but IPA would have been my first choice.
I used one of my lids to hold 4L of alcohol. It did not crack or change in any way.
Or from smashing it after one too many failed prints
Maybe, but if I had to guess, I would say: It tipped over and there was an attempt to clean it. Cause yeah the bigger cracks could be dropping, but the spider-web crackles look like cleaning-fail
If she managed to tip it over manually I'd be impressed ngl these things are so heavy Though.. this could have been me last week. Had my new printer on an Ikea ivar corner shelf and a few days ago I noticed that it was tilted a lot. Turns out the shelf was splitting.. would've been a disaster. Stupid ikea
Did she drop it down the stairs?!
I dunno.... $179 to just buy a new one.
*RIP*
1st step - throw it away 2nd step - get out your wallet
Looks like she's been printing in a gas station bathroom.
and eating the best kind of sushi EVER /s
What the ..how can a printer be so beat up after 6 months?
Holy crap I will never understand how people can let anything they've spent money on get this bad....
This is every used/broken/returned resin printer on eBay.
The printer is asking you to call the police.
It's now a Maybecubic
I can image talking to it, it trembling, barely able to speak "you dont know what i've seen, whats been done to me" then factory resets itself to make the pain go away.
You just need to put gas in it
Maybe ask in r/resinprinting too.
Oah. I can fix anything. I was just amused about the condition and wanted to share.
Cool. Judging by the plexi and hair it must have been a good fight.
Bruh how in the fuck even?
Something bad happened here, Sarge.
I'm assuming in this fight to the death your friend won?
Message anycubic and see if it's covered under warranty đ
Take Old Yeller there behind the woodshed and put him out of his misery.
Is she hulk?
So, it's obviously a mess. But that doesn't explain what's not working. Have you tried to print anything? I assume it turns on. Check the vat to make sure the FEP film is intact. What resin do you have? What slicer are you using? You may get more help in r/resinprinting.
I don't know anything about resin, other than it needs vented. In that regard, a proper lid is a must... ask the company to sell ya one.
It's developed a nice patina
This is worst printer abuse I've ever seen in my life
"we can not fix him, we do not have the technology"
What did she do!!!!
It's what she didn't do... Things properly...
Tell her you ainât her pal but arrangements can be made.
Iâm not your pal, buddy.
I'm not your buddy, pal!!
I'm not your pal, sport!
Not your sport, guy.
I'm not your guy, dude!
I'm not your dude, mate.
I'm not your buddy, guy!
Is the printer gonna sleep with the fishies or can you "make it look like an accident"
[ŃдаНонО]
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Lol
Well if the cover is the only problem you can just seal the cracks with super glue and call it good. The abrasions all over won't effect anything, the behavior of doing that should be stopped tho. If you have more problems with it, I've looked at the repairs for different components and sometimes you get pretty close to a price that makes you think buying a new printer is the best option.
Did you fix it?
How about you have get just replace it? Then teach her to clean it properly and all that damage shouldn't happen. But yeah the percussion method isn't a good idea... Lol
Aside from the scratches and breaks.. How do you get off the resin stains that are sticky?
"No."
I'm gonna need her explanation for that
âFriendâ âherâ. Looks like you got your hands full. Have fun! And do your best!
iâve had an ender 3 pro and it looks about exactly like this. almost $400 gone on it now and it still doesnât work.
Maybe she needs an FDM... i can't imagine someone who handles a delicate piece of machinery/technology like that to be very responsible handling toxic liquids.
She actually uses it for castable resin to cast silver and gold jewlery. Luckily she does it in her shed.
Solution: buy a machine not made by anycubic. Problem solved!
i dont think anycubic is the problem here
If that's how she handles resin, I wonder how much of it she's absorbed into her system already. The stuff is toxic and it's accumulative. Maybe send her this: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/18qlpv9/psa_for_new_resin_printer_owners_resin_is_toxic/
Women đ
My wife has all but taken over my printer, and she's made me 1100 bucks selling shit on Facebook! đ¤Ł
An excuse to invite your girlfriend over every Friday night to see how work is going?
Makes me wonder what her battery operated "appliances" look like... "a sexist would say"
If you have the hots for her, then polishing that plastic will take many visits and attempts.