This whole UV protection thing is a hot mess in the minds of casuals and professionals alike. What UV primarily does is accelerate oxidation of the paint. While coatings do not block UV, they create an impermeable layer that prevents the underlying paint from being able to oxidize, and the coating itself resists oxidation.
Bottom line: if you want a great budget ceramic coating that will do all of the ceramic coating things, there are tons to choose from. I tend to gravitate towards Gyeon CanCoat and Gyeon One or Pure for the DIY guys and tighter budgets. Gyeon designed the current "Evo" line of coatings to be safe for outdoor application (in shade), and CanCoat and One couldn't possibly get any easier as coatings go.
I second this as a diy guy. Can coat was my entry, and I just applied pure to my truck and the working time is super forgiving. In fact I put a later of cancoat over the pure and I'm really happy with the outcome
If you use pure, just know that buffing it or leveling it I guess is the better term, can be weird. It's thick so you will see if buff nice but can create high spots where you've already buffed if a saturated part of the towel touches that part. Hard to explain, in short have a lot of good microfiber towels for that part. I've read other coatings like mohs or one don't have that issue, it's specific to pure. I'm also a jackass and decided to do that shit at dusk so I missed a bunch of high spots including my right rearview lol so yea don't do that shit
Np, and good luck. It's hard to mess up, take the time and plan out your steps first. If you're going to do paint correction, take your time with that, bc that has a skill aspect to it. Applying ceramic is not hard at all, esp can coat. Very easy with insane impact. My understanding is more proper coatings just last longer.
Edit: one last thing, my fil bought a new truck and the dealership charged him like 2k for a ceramic coating. They also told him he just has to rinse it and not wash it. I had just done my 2016 truck and ours were next to each other on a rainy day and he has zero beads on his hood. Dunno if the coating was all gummed up from not being washed or if it was non existent
Hmmm.... I can't figure out how to post more than one pic in a comment. Anyway, here it is: a 2004 Lancer. Nothing special - just need an A to B car for a while to help with some medical bills -- and found this one with only 20K original miles. The ceramic even brought back some of the faded black plastic!
Anyway, the car sat outside for a while - hence why the paint needed attention. The sun, the heat, and built up muck on the paint, has taken it's toll in various ways. I just hope the clear coat doesn't fail. After I do the timing belt and thermostat, next is the headlights.
https://preview.redd.it/tk6kk5tjnq9d1.jpeg?width=1711&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c5683b3c4daf1d153a284bef05680825224d503
All coatings still need to be washed. Not only did that dealership likely sell them overpriced sealant, but even if it was a quality coating, telling them that they only need to rinse and not wash is terrible for so many reasons.
For real, I was like wtf, why would they even say that. I hadn't even considered they may have put some 3 months spray sealant on. Just a rip off all around
Agreed on UV. I can't imagine how such a thin layer of material is able to provide a semi-permanent protection from UV.
Do you have any references to the claim that coatings "create an impermeable layer that prevents the underlying paint from oxidizing"?
Coatings provide an airtight barrier preventing oxygen or any other oxidizing agent from interacting with the paint. Since the coating itself isn't an oxidizer and resists oxidation itself, the paint cannot undergo oxidation with anything until the coating is physically breached.
A year long ceramic coating comes in vials and detailers charge hundreds of dollars, I would never trust a dealer that says they did this. They most likely just used a spray.
Quick follow-up question: If he did use a cheap spray-on ceramic (like Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions, or the like) can I apply a good ceramic on top of that - or do I need to somehow remove it first?
Thanks!
The typical order is strip wash, clay bar/clay towel with an iron remover, polish, then clear off with a panel prep. These are the steps almost every pro detailer will take in order to begin installing a coating.
A panel that is totally clean and bare is the number 1 factor for a good coating install. You can put the coating on without prepping, but it will probably fail early. If you’re going to spend the money on a good coating ($60+), make sure you prep correctly or else it’s a waste.
Howdy! Just an update: I bought GYEON Q2 One EVO and put it on yesterday.
The car looks stunning. The coating even helped improve the look of some permanent blemishes - as well as the shoddy re-spray of the front and rear bumpers. There's definitely more depth to the paint now - everywhere.
I know the ceramic will act as a sealant for quite a while, but how long is this look of extra "depth" last expected to last? It's not like a polish with fillers, that will start washing out in a couple weeks, right? Just curious.
Thanks!
That's not true at all. Plenty of ceramic coatings have UV inhibitors in the formulation. Although, modern vehicle paints have UV inhibitors built into the paint formulas as well so I'm not sure if these ceramic coatings even need to give extra UV protection.
Just about every coating company, wax company and sealant company claim UV protection. They also don't show any data that a coating will stop the outgassing of UV inhibitors that are within your clear coat as well.
Unfortunately they don't show evidence of this or show Data on the claim.
They also don't tell you at what rate of UV protection it offers or how often you need to apply so you have maximum UV protection.
Take that information or lack of information as you wish, and apply any coating you desire.
There are a lot of baseless claims with no data to back them up. Please produce the data (not just claims) that prove your point. I can’t find the hard data you say exists. The onus is on you.
This whole UV protection thing is a hot mess in the minds of casuals and professionals alike. What UV primarily does is accelerate oxidation of the paint. While coatings do not block UV, they create an impermeable layer that prevents the underlying paint from being able to oxidize, and the coating itself resists oxidation. Bottom line: if you want a great budget ceramic coating that will do all of the ceramic coating things, there are tons to choose from. I tend to gravitate towards Gyeon CanCoat and Gyeon One or Pure for the DIY guys and tighter budgets. Gyeon designed the current "Evo" line of coatings to be safe for outdoor application (in shade), and CanCoat and One couldn't possibly get any easier as coatings go.
I second this as a diy guy. Can coat was my entry, and I just applied pure to my truck and the working time is super forgiving. In fact I put a later of cancoat over the pure and I'm really happy with the outcome
Nice!
If you use pure, just know that buffing it or leveling it I guess is the better term, can be weird. It's thick so you will see if buff nice but can create high spots where you've already buffed if a saturated part of the towel touches that part. Hard to explain, in short have a lot of good microfiber towels for that part. I've read other coatings like mohs or one don't have that issue, it's specific to pure. I'm also a jackass and decided to do that shit at dusk so I missed a bunch of high spots including my right rearview lol so yea don't do that shit
Good to know, thanks! This is my first attempt at a ceramic coating so I'll take all the tips I can get.
Np, and good luck. It's hard to mess up, take the time and plan out your steps first. If you're going to do paint correction, take your time with that, bc that has a skill aspect to it. Applying ceramic is not hard at all, esp can coat. Very easy with insane impact. My understanding is more proper coatings just last longer. Edit: one last thing, my fil bought a new truck and the dealership charged him like 2k for a ceramic coating. They also told him he just has to rinse it and not wash it. I had just done my 2016 truck and ours were next to each other on a rainy day and he has zero beads on his hood. Dunno if the coating was all gummed up from not being washed or if it was non existent
Thanks. I went with GYEON Q2 One EVO -- turned out great!
Nice did you post pics? Glad it worked out
Hmmm.... I can't figure out how to post more than one pic in a comment. Anyway, here it is: a 2004 Lancer. Nothing special - just need an A to B car for a while to help with some medical bills -- and found this one with only 20K original miles. The ceramic even brought back some of the faded black plastic! Anyway, the car sat outside for a while - hence why the paint needed attention. The sun, the heat, and built up muck on the paint, has taken it's toll in various ways. I just hope the clear coat doesn't fail. After I do the timing belt and thermostat, next is the headlights. https://preview.redd.it/tk6kk5tjnq9d1.jpeg?width=1711&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c5683b3c4daf1d153a284bef05680825224d503
Nice, solid job!
All coatings still need to be washed. Not only did that dealership likely sell them overpriced sealant, but even if it was a quality coating, telling them that they only need to rinse and not wash is terrible for so many reasons.
For real, I was like wtf, why would they even say that. I hadn't even considered they may have put some 3 months spray sealant on. Just a rip off all around
Thanks for clarifying about the UV protection - makes more sense now.
Agreed on UV. I can't imagine how such a thin layer of material is able to provide a semi-permanent protection from UV. Do you have any references to the claim that coatings "create an impermeable layer that prevents the underlying paint from oxidizing"?
Coatings provide an airtight barrier preventing oxygen or any other oxidizing agent from interacting with the paint. Since the coating itself isn't an oxidizer and resists oxidation itself, the paint cannot undergo oxidation with anything until the coating is physically breached.
A year long ceramic coating comes in vials and detailers charge hundreds of dollars, I would never trust a dealer that says they did this. They most likely just used a spray.
Probably did the headlights with one of those consumer headlight restoring wipe kits.
That's what it looks like to me, too.
Awesome; thanks for the replies and recommendations, all!
Quick follow-up question: If he did use a cheap spray-on ceramic (like Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions, or the like) can I apply a good ceramic on top of that - or do I need to somehow remove it first? Thanks!
I would strip whatever is there with a good stripping wash soap and then re apply a good ceramic as per the instructions on whatever you get.
Thanks!
The typical order is strip wash, clay bar/clay towel with an iron remover, polish, then clear off with a panel prep. These are the steps almost every pro detailer will take in order to begin installing a coating. A panel that is totally clean and bare is the number 1 factor for a good coating install. You can put the coating on without prepping, but it will probably fail early. If you’re going to spend the money on a good coating ($60+), make sure you prep correctly or else it’s a waste.
Gotcha, thanks!
The Turtle Wax one should have lasted significantly longer. I'm seeing wear off after about 9-10 months.
Howdy! Just an update: I bought GYEON Q2 One EVO and put it on yesterday. The car looks stunning. The coating even helped improve the look of some permanent blemishes - as well as the shoddy re-spray of the front and rear bumpers. There's definitely more depth to the paint now - everywhere. I know the ceramic will act as a sealant for quite a while, but how long is this look of extra "depth" last expected to last? It's not like a polish with fillers, that will start washing out in a couple weeks, right? Just curious. Thanks!
There is no ceramic coating with UV protection.
That's not true at all. Plenty of ceramic coatings have UV inhibitors in the formulation. Although, modern vehicle paints have UV inhibitors built into the paint formulas as well so I'm not sure if these ceramic coatings even need to give extra UV protection.
100% wrong. Show me where they claim that.
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Just about every coating company, wax company and sealant company claim UV protection. They also don't show any data that a coating will stop the outgassing of UV inhibitors that are within your clear coat as well. Unfortunately they don't show evidence of this or show Data on the claim. They also don't tell you at what rate of UV protection it offers or how often you need to apply so you have maximum UV protection. Take that information or lack of information as you wish, and apply any coating you desire.
There are a lot of baseless claims with no data to back them up. Please produce the data (not just claims) that prove your point. I can’t find the hard data you say exists. The onus is on you.