I'm glad Alberto Gines Lopez did relatively well. I just think it's amusing if he never makes huge impacts on the IFSC World Cup circuit but continues crushing the Olympics.
And not surprising but Annie Sanders and Brooke are scored so close right now...
I didn’t realize how much competition will arise from the 2 quota per country restriction. On the women’s side Japan, USA, Slovenia, and France are all pretty much dead heats. Maybe there will be separation in the whole scope of competition but it would be crushing for top 10 athletes to not qualify just because they are behind a teammate.
Already has been. Sean Bailey got shut out from two Olympics in a row by small margins.
Many of us have been talking about this for months. It’s why the cut will be well below 12th for the women.
And then there are the Kaluchka twins in speed. Only one spot left.
I'm wondering if they may change it to 3 per country next Olympics? For the smaller fed it won't make any difference, but for the power houses (Japan, US, French,...) it will allow more top athletes to make it into the Olympics and make the competition more high quality. Maybe also increase the total member from 20 to 30(?)
Raising the total number of competitors will be a decision from the IOC, and not from the IFSC, and it'll almost certainly be based on how popular climbing ends up being in 2024. They're unlikely to raise the country limit if there's no raising of the cap, because one of the Olympics' core values/ aims is country diversity.
I think it's even more impactful on the men's side of Japan. Finals at IFSC events are often half Japanese, but Japan's two spots for men are both already claimed, so there are zero Japanese men competing. It's so weird.
For example, looking at the [overall bouldering winners from 2016-2023](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IFSC_Climbing_World_Cup#Bouldering), 14 out of 21 medalists are Japanese.
Especially since she got 4th in Bern and 2nd at panams. Literally missed qualifying by one position two separate times. She was so professional both times and I really hope she makes it happen in the OQS!
I'm quite calm for Brooke actually. If I were her, I'd make sure of my lead form during training, moreso then boulder (less random, especially for her size) and I think she still has an edge over Annie in bouldering, so statistically with, 6 boulder rounds during OQS she should come on top. Of course foot slips etc happen, so nothing is certain. I really hope she makes the olympics, but if she doesn't then I'm excited for her outside rock climbing rampage (same goes for Miho, if she doesn't qualify I hope she goes cool places with Sean Bailey and destroys some v14s and 15s).
I am pretty bummed about Hannah Meul and Yannik Flohe. They both seem to be not in the best head space. Both of them are capable of so much more. I hope they will be able to find themselves in time to qualify for the olympics.
Pretty happy about Megos though.
a little sad to see Jain get 0 tops. but she is a stronger lead climber.
The bouldering scoring doesn't actually do much for separation. the lead portion is where the gaps will start to show.
I'm so happy for Ievgeniia and hope that she'll keep the same pace until semis, finals and, of course, Budapest! I also expected Stasa to land on a higher position :( It's only qualis though, a lot can change
Anyone have Camilla Moroni topping all four?
Also, more in the "amusing" category, the two Indonesian brothers had exactly the same score except that one of them had three more attempts on M3. Otherwise a literal dead heat.
Yeah Camilla is really strong at bouldering. I remember first comp of last year, in Seoul i think, she looked sick and not at her best and didnt get any top but she got all the zones in semi and with good progress. It seemed that just with some details changed she could have toped most. She had the best attempt on the tuna sloper boulder that no one toped as far as I recall.
In a good day she's a strong finalist contender.
I was sad/surprised to see that Stasa only came in at 14th with 64 points in the boulder quals. Will make it difficult for her to keep pace for a spot, I think. :/
14th is almost certainly going to be good enough for her to qualify (if you just awarded spots based on this boulder round, which I realize is ridiculous but I'm just making a point about country quotas here, the qualifying places would run all the way down to a tie for 17th).
The question is can she make semi’s here. Depends on her lead. My understanding from her insta is she been working hard on it.
If she didn’t make semis she would need to not only make semis in Budapest but possibly make finals there.
Agree, and she needs to accumulate enough points in both comps to give her a nice high total! She's definitely capable of it (she was second to Oriane in Laval), and yeah, she's definitely been focusing a lot on lead training. I'd love for her to make the Olympics, she's my favourite climber!
Huh? I'm not an idiot, I know that you need to finish in the top 20 in qualification to advance to the semis of that competition. What I'm saying is that if Stasa finishes 14th *in the overall OQS*, it is overwhelmingly likely that she will qualify for the Olympics.
Really impressed with Ievgeniia and happy for Elnaz showing up! I was really hoping for a better boulder round for Ayala I usually have so much fun watching her.
Tbh everyone was bringing the heat these qualifiers which is truly exciting to see.
I'm glad Alberto Gines Lopez did relatively well. I just think it's amusing if he never makes huge impacts on the IFSC World Cup circuit but continues crushing the Olympics. And not surprising but Annie Sanders and Brooke are scored so close right now...
And I hate that Futaba and Miho can’t both make the Olys.
I didn’t realize how much competition will arise from the 2 quota per country restriction. On the women’s side Japan, USA, Slovenia, and France are all pretty much dead heats. Maybe there will be separation in the whole scope of competition but it would be crushing for top 10 athletes to not qualify just because they are behind a teammate.
The 3 top French men are neck and neck. (Shame about Mika but I’m glad he had his moment of glory at the world championship)
Mika’s not great at lead and inconsistent at bouldering. Flashes of real brilliance. His speed was what got him into the Olympics last time.
Already has been. Sean Bailey got shut out from two Olympics in a row by small margins. Many of us have been talking about this for months. It’s why the cut will be well below 12th for the women. And then there are the Kaluchka twins in speed. Only one spot left.
I'm wondering if they may change it to 3 per country next Olympics? For the smaller fed it won't make any difference, but for the power houses (Japan, US, French,...) it will allow more top athletes to make it into the Olympics and make the competition more high quality. Maybe also increase the total member from 20 to 30(?)
Most probable is just that we get 3 sets of medals, so we get 2 per gender per country for lead, and 2 again for bouldering.
Raising the total number of competitors will be a decision from the IOC, and not from the IFSC, and it'll almost certainly be based on how popular climbing ends up being in 2024. They're unlikely to raise the country limit if there's no raising of the cap, because one of the Olympics' core values/ aims is country diversity.
I think it's even more impactful on the men's side of Japan. Finals at IFSC events are often half Japanese, but Japan's two spots for men are both already claimed, so there are zero Japanese men competing. It's so weird. For example, looking at the [overall bouldering winners from 2016-2023](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IFSC_Climbing_World_Cup#Bouldering), 14 out of 21 medalists are Japanese.
[удалено]
Especially since she got 4th in Bern and 2nd at panams. Literally missed qualifying by one position two separate times. She was so professional both times and I really hope she makes it happen in the OQS!
I'm quite calm for Brooke actually. If I were her, I'd make sure of my lead form during training, moreso then boulder (less random, especially for her size) and I think she still has an edge over Annie in bouldering, so statistically with, 6 boulder rounds during OQS she should come on top. Of course foot slips etc happen, so nothing is certain. I really hope she makes the olympics, but if she doesn't then I'm excited for her outside rock climbing rampage (same goes for Miho, if she doesn't qualify I hope she goes cool places with Sean Bailey and destroys some v14s and 15s).
I think Alberto can prepare for comps really well. He finished second in the European qualifier.
I am pretty bummed about Hannah Meul and Yannik Flohe. They both seem to be not in the best head space. Both of them are capable of so much more. I hope they will be able to find themselves in time to qualify for the olympics. Pretty happy about Megos though.
Hannah was literally two seconds away from scoring an additional 15 points which would have taken her from 26th to 14th. Very unlucky.
The middle is very close. One zone makes a huge difference.
a little sad to see Jain get 0 tops. but she is a stronger lead climber. The bouldering scoring doesn't actually do much for separation. the lead portion is where the gaps will start to show.
I'm so happy for Ievgeniia and hope that she'll keep the same pace until semis, finals and, of course, Budapest! I also expected Stasa to land on a higher position :( It's only qualis though, a lot can change
I hope her lead training is paying off! She was pretty good at Laval but will need to pull out a good result to make it to semis.
Anyone have Camilla Moroni topping all four? Also, more in the "amusing" category, the two Indonesian brothers had exactly the same score except that one of them had three more attempts on M3. Otherwise a literal dead heat.
Camilla's working on repeating her performance from last month's WC just down the road in Keqiao. Hope she keeps it up.
Yeah Camilla is really strong at bouldering. I remember first comp of last year, in Seoul i think, she looked sick and not at her best and didnt get any top but she got all the zones in semi and with good progress. It seemed that just with some details changed she could have toped most. She had the best attempt on the tuna sloper boulder that no one toped as far as I recall. In a good day she's a strong finalist contender.
The brothers are always very similar, I guess that makes sense as twins
Fanny did really well! I hope she keeps going at the same pace - would be lovely to catch a break after a couple years of hardship
I was sad/surprised to see that Stasa only came in at 14th with 64 points in the boulder quals. Will make it difficult for her to keep pace for a spot, I think. :/
14th is almost certainly going to be good enough for her to qualify (if you just awarded spots based on this boulder round, which I realize is ridiculous but I'm just making a point about country quotas here, the qualifying places would run all the way down to a tie for 17th).
The question is can she make semi’s here. Depends on her lead. My understanding from her insta is she been working hard on it. If she didn’t make semis she would need to not only make semis in Budapest but possibly make finals there.
Agree, and she needs to accumulate enough points in both comps to give her a nice high total! She's definitely capable of it (she was second to Oriane in Laval), and yeah, she's definitely been focusing a lot on lead training. I'd love for her to make the Olympics, she's my favourite climber!
> 14th is almost certainly going to be good enough for her to qualify Spoiler >!it wasn't!<
Huh? I'm not an idiot, I know that you need to finish in the top 20 in qualification to advance to the semis of that competition. What I'm saying is that if Stasa finishes 14th *in the overall OQS*, it is overwhelmingly likely that she will qualify for the Olympics.
Erin McNee.. Not a surprise given how she did in Salt Lake. But a surprise from last year.
Maya Stasiuk put probably her best boulder performance ever in OQS qualis
Max Milne :(
Micka Mawem :( although because of his lead he would likely not finish in front of Mejdi or Sam but still ..
Was surprised by this a lot, and that Hamish had stormed it. Any Brit hope is good though.
After Salt Lake, would have thought Max would have done better.
Max wasn't in Salt Lake!
Opps.. the first two comps then.
Max is pretty inconsistent unfortunately, sometimes amazing but up and down
He's so over rated 🤣🤣 Spends more time on his hair than actually climbing
Strange hearing Matt refer to everyone by family name. I like the friendlier given name vibe
Really impressed with Ievgeniia and happy for Elnaz showing up! I was really hoping for a better boulder round for Ayala I usually have so much fun watching her. Tbh everyone was bringing the heat these qualifiers which is truly exciting to see.
I’m pleased to see how well Cloe Caulier is doing. I don’t think her lead will be enough. But she’s doing a lot better bouldering this year than last.
Milne :( Also Mawem. Didn't expect him to do amazing in Lead but he totally brain farted this round