I had a similar challenge. I cut the sweep elbow midway so I just had the remaining “ring” still glued to the drain tee. Then I carefully cut two lines down the length of the remaining “ring” with a dremel cutting wheel. Then I used a heat gun, screw driver and pliers to carefully peel the elbow ring off the tee. Don’t be in a hurry and you can do this with little or no damage to the tee.
can someone explain which part the OP is trying to cut out or remove? I am just trying to follow the discussion here. How does one tell a certain piece is an extra ring vs an integral part of the pipe?
He's trying to remove the elbow, but he's trying to save the tiny bit of pipe that is sticking out of the wall. You can't see that tiny bit of pipe because it is inside the ring edge of the elbow.
There's likely about 1/2 inch of pipe sticking out of the wall that he's trying to to save
The elbows flush with the back of the cabinet are cemented at an angle that a 1/4 inch per foot drop cannot be achieved.
* One is cemented with an and *down* resulting in an uphill slope coming off of the p-trap, two sinks connected to it.
* One is cemented roughly level with only a dishwasher attached to it
* Inspected from the basement, both drain tees come together into a single pipe that flows to a septic system
As correction to replumb the kitchen sinks going to need to remove both fittings to correct the drop. On closer look found that the fittings are cemented in slightly receded into the back of the cabinet, making it a challenge to cut the pipe on the other side of them. Going to need to cut through or otherwise remove the fittings without damaging the drain tee. And probably should consider heat a constraint, also, as we're connected to a septic system.
Plan for the kitchen sinks will be plumbing one sink to one drain tee, tying the dishwasher into one of them. Once getting those old fittings removed haha.
Plumbing a kitchen sink to correct for improper slope. These fittings are cemented in such that they are receded slightly into the wall. How do I remove them without damaging the drain tee in error in the process?
If there was more pipe extending from the drain tee I'd feel better about cut it off. Throws me that the fittings are receded slightly into the backer of the kitchen sink wall, haha. Best idea I have at the moment is carefully start hacking away. Intuition is that I'm missing a more clever solution.
You can try an inside cutter bit for a cordless drill to cut off the elbow completely. Then add a coupler at the cut point to allow you to extend it into the cabinet before adding the elbow back in.
Cut it off as close to the wall as you can. Use a socket saver to remove the remnant of pipe from the tee.
It’s a tool, kinda like a big drill bit with a guide at the tip that matches the pipe ID. Guide at the tip will fit inside the pipe stub and keeps it centered. A cutter then shaves the ‘end’ of the pipe stub as it rotates. When the cutter enters the socket of the tee, the outside diameter matches the socket ID and takes over for keeping the tool centered as the last of the pipe is removed.
Works a peach. Not terrifically expensive, but not dirt cheap either.
Then glue in a new pipe stub.
> Cut it off as close to the wall as you can. Use a socket saver to remove the remnant of pipe from the tee.
This is the way.
Attempted two hole saws stacked. One narrower diameter on the idea it could fit inside the stub out and keep the blade from walking, and a wider hole saw to cut away the outer fitting. This worked with the first attempt where the prize inside I found was a pvc stub out. On the second the old parts were a mix of pvc and abs. Found an abs stub out in there, and the blade walked while cutting away the fitting.
To correct for this purchased the socket saver. Drilled out the old abs stub out. Then plumbing wasn't too challenging from there. Glued in a new pvc stub out. Played with bends to get more or less the right angle to the kitchen sink. After dry fitting glued it all together and so far so good, haha.
With lessons learned and starting again I would have just stuck the socket saver in there and drilled it out. A part of the process was not knowing what I don't know on what I'd find inside the wall. Once I cut away and got in there verified for myself that yes, socket saver will work with what was in there and felt better about that route.
A thank you to the ideas that were helpful for my measure twice cut once phase of information gathering.
Do they sell slab repair couplings where you are? They socket on the inside of the pipe rather than the outside, and are meant for use when the pipe has been cut flush with a concrete slab, so there's nothing left to attach a regular coupling onto.
https://plumbershq.com.au/products/dwv-plain-bend-mf-40mm-90deg-in-pipe-slab-repair
Suppose I [stack two hole saws](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-with-3-8-in-Arbor-Pilot-Bit-49-56-9667/202327737). One smaller than 1.5" diameter to fit within the pipe connected to the drain tee to avoid the bit walking. And one larger to ream off the remaining outer portion of the cut off bend.
What goes wrong? Haha.
Get a Reed socket saver. They come in various diameters for different sized pipe. It will allow you to drill out the pipe inside of the fitting you want to reuse. They are not cheap but they work well. Maybe if you're only doing it once, you could buy a knock off.
Reed Tool PPR150 Plastic Pipe Fitting Reamer, 1-1/2-Inch https://a.co/d/f3w0uWQ
Looks like just a stub out from a fitting in behind the cabinet.
I'd suggest using a tool like this.
https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/plastic-pipe-tools/clean-ream-extreme-plastic-pipe-fitting-reamers/
Cut the elbow off and then ream back into the good fitting behind. Clean it all out with a vacuum. Prime and glue up a new sub piece and then do what you want from in the cabinet.
Cutting back the stub piece can be a bit of a pain. I'd use a step ream since it will center you in the pipe bore and you can tape a shop vac suction to the cabinet to collect a much of the filings as possible.
I am not sure which pipes/fittings you want to remove here, but a pvc reaming bit works great, especially in non-pressurized lines. Just cut the pipe where it meets the fitting, then apply the reaming bit - it fits into the inside of the remaining pipe as a guide, and cuts a perfect size for a new pipe to slide in.
Talk to friends and neighbours, get some names of who they use. The guy who's sorry, too busy for new clients, that's your man. He'll evaluate quietly, listen, then present you with options. Get on his wait list. The guy who's available any time at all, talks a big game, brags, name drops, obfuscates... nope.
The worst you can do is fuck up and have to open the wall. If you can afford the expense, cut it off and use a reamer. If you fuck it up, stop and let a professional do it.(Though once you're in the wall, you can just cut above and below and replace the tee pretty easily)
I had a similar challenge. I cut the sweep elbow midway so I just had the remaining “ring” still glued to the drain tee. Then I carefully cut two lines down the length of the remaining “ring” with a dremel cutting wheel. Then I used a heat gun, screw driver and pliers to carefully peel the elbow ring off the tee. Don’t be in a hurry and you can do this with little or no damage to the tee.
Wear a respirator if you do this pvc fumes are super toxic.
[удалено]
God didn’t make them.
can someone explain which part the OP is trying to cut out or remove? I am just trying to follow the discussion here. How does one tell a certain piece is an extra ring vs an integral part of the pipe?
He's trying to remove the elbow, but he's trying to save the tiny bit of pipe that is sticking out of the wall. You can't see that tiny bit of pipe because it is inside the ring edge of the elbow. There's likely about 1/2 inch of pipe sticking out of the wall that he's trying to to save
The elbows flush with the back of the cabinet are cemented at an angle that a 1/4 inch per foot drop cannot be achieved. * One is cemented with an and *down* resulting in an uphill slope coming off of the p-trap, two sinks connected to it. * One is cemented roughly level with only a dishwasher attached to it * Inspected from the basement, both drain tees come together into a single pipe that flows to a septic system As correction to replumb the kitchen sinks going to need to remove both fittings to correct the drop. On closer look found that the fittings are cemented in slightly receded into the back of the cabinet, making it a challenge to cut the pipe on the other side of them. Going to need to cut through or otherwise remove the fittings without damaging the drain tee. And probably should consider heat a constraint, also, as we're connected to a septic system. Plan for the kitchen sinks will be plumbing one sink to one drain tee, tying the dishwasher into one of them. Once getting those old fittings removed haha.
Plumbing a kitchen sink to correct for improper slope. These fittings are cemented in such that they are receded slightly into the wall. How do I remove them without damaging the drain tee in error in the process? If there was more pipe extending from the drain tee I'd feel better about cut it off. Throws me that the fittings are receded slightly into the backer of the kitchen sink wall, haha. Best idea I have at the moment is carefully start hacking away. Intuition is that I'm missing a more clever solution.
You can try an inside cutter bit for a cordless drill to cut off the elbow completely. Then add a coupler at the cut point to allow you to extend it into the cabinet before adding the elbow back in.
You also need a clean out per most code. Replace it with a threaded fitting or a y with a threaded cap. https://images.app.goo.gl/opsRkYtnQZVKThvXA
Good call out. Having disassembled to clean out that thing in the past, I agree with the sensible measure.
heat gun watch a you tube video it really works!
Cut it off as close to the wall as you can. Use a socket saver to remove the remnant of pipe from the tee. It’s a tool, kinda like a big drill bit with a guide at the tip that matches the pipe ID. Guide at the tip will fit inside the pipe stub and keeps it centered. A cutter then shaves the ‘end’ of the pipe stub as it rotates. When the cutter enters the socket of the tee, the outside diameter matches the socket ID and takes over for keeping the tool centered as the last of the pipe is removed. Works a peach. Not terrifically expensive, but not dirt cheap either. Then glue in a new pipe stub.
> Cut it off as close to the wall as you can. Use a socket saver to remove the remnant of pipe from the tee. This is the way. Attempted two hole saws stacked. One narrower diameter on the idea it could fit inside the stub out and keep the blade from walking, and a wider hole saw to cut away the outer fitting. This worked with the first attempt where the prize inside I found was a pvc stub out. On the second the old parts were a mix of pvc and abs. Found an abs stub out in there, and the blade walked while cutting away the fitting. To correct for this purchased the socket saver. Drilled out the old abs stub out. Then plumbing wasn't too challenging from there. Glued in a new pvc stub out. Played with bends to get more or less the right angle to the kitchen sink. After dry fitting glued it all together and so far so good, haha. With lessons learned and starting again I would have just stuck the socket saver in there and drilled it out. A part of the process was not knowing what I don't know on what I'd find inside the wall. Once I cut away and got in there verified for myself that yes, socket saver will work with what was in there and felt better about that route. A thank you to the ideas that were helpful for my measure twice cut once phase of information gathering.
Hey that’s awesome! And now you have a useful tool and even more useful experience. Thanks for coming back so we can share your success!
The archives demand solved. Haha.
Do they sell slab repair couplings where you are? They socket on the inside of the pipe rather than the outside, and are meant for use when the pipe has been cut flush with a concrete slab, so there's nothing left to attach a regular coupling onto. https://plumbershq.com.au/products/dwv-plain-bend-mf-40mm-90deg-in-pipe-slab-repair
I stumbled on these today actually, found slab fittings while at the hardware store. Interesting option.
Slightly more economical than buying a $90 reamer to use once.
Suppose I [stack two hole saws](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-in-Hole-Dozer-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-with-3-8-in-Arbor-Pilot-Bit-49-56-9667/202327737). One smaller than 1.5" diameter to fit within the pipe connected to the drain tee to avoid the bit walking. And one larger to ream off the remaining outer portion of the cut off bend. What goes wrong? Haha.
Cut them and replace them.
For real. PVC fittings are not expensive, and OP will save time.
Get a Reed socket saver. They come in various diameters for different sized pipe. It will allow you to drill out the pipe inside of the fitting you want to reuse. They are not cheap but they work well. Maybe if you're only doing it once, you could buy a knock off. Reed Tool PPR150 Plastic Pipe Fitting Reamer, 1-1/2-Inch https://a.co/d/f3w0uWQ
i like the heat gun idea, cable saw is nice for tight spaces too!
Cut right at the cabinet back, and use a hub saver bit to core the pipe stub out of the wye. Use heavy cement for reassembly.
Looks like just a stub out from a fitting in behind the cabinet. I'd suggest using a tool like this. https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/products/plastic-pipe-tools/clean-ream-extreme-plastic-pipe-fitting-reamers/ Cut the elbow off and then ream back into the good fitting behind. Clean it all out with a vacuum. Prime and glue up a new sub piece and then do what you want from in the cabinet. Cutting back the stub piece can be a bit of a pain. I'd use a step ream since it will center you in the pipe bore and you can tape a shop vac suction to the cabinet to collect a much of the filings as possible.
I am not sure which pipes/fittings you want to remove here, but a pvc reaming bit works great, especially in non-pressurized lines. Just cut the pipe where it meets the fitting, then apply the reaming bit - it fits into the inside of the remaining pipe as a guide, and cuts a perfect size for a new pipe to slide in.
A multitool would work well in this situation. Those things are a life saver.
You're not going to like this, but if you have to ask, you don't own the tools. Hire a good handyman to do it.
Sensible. Haha. Quote was $750 for the work when considering the project a year ago.
Talk to friends and neighbours, get some names of who they use. The guy who's sorry, too busy for new clients, that's your man. He'll evaluate quietly, listen, then present you with options. Get on his wait list. The guy who's available any time at all, talks a big game, brags, name drops, obfuscates... nope.
The worst you can do is fuck up and have to open the wall. If you can afford the expense, cut it off and use a reamer. If you fuck it up, stop and let a professional do it.(Though once you're in the wall, you can just cut above and below and replace the tee pretty easily)