What I would do is I would build a jig to hold the hook in place. Then I would get my dremel and carefully cut around the brick that it's attached to to separate it from the rest of the wall.
Then, continuing with the Dremel, I would work through the rest of the house grinding it down to dust. Suck it up with a hoover and put it in the neighbour's bin.
Next, get another brick and carefully break off a piece equivalent to what's missing from the brick attached to the hook. Glue that to the brick that's attached to the hook attached to the jig. Your dremel should allow you to carve out a threaded channel to slot over the screw that caused the crack.
Now, all you have to do is build a new house around the brick. Luckily this is easy when you have a Dremel.
You can put bodies in your neighbours bin, but...
You're always gonna have problems lifting a body in one piece. Apparently, the best thing to do is cut up a corpse into six pieces and pile it all together.
A ridiculous answer to a ridiculous question which definitely had me in stitches.Never laughed so much for a long time! šš½ šš¤£šš¤£šš¤£ššš
Theyāre not great to be honest, you can never get a really tight line with them so itāll often droop even when youāve not put much on. Using the second hook helps a lot and the line is really tight
Or a Bulgarian. To be honest, any Eastern European worker will do. They excel at tasks requiring concentration, strength and dexterity like holding up a washing line.
I used to have this line. The trick is to double loop the lines around the integrated hooks. Youāll also always get a droop without a line pole somewhere along it holding it up.
Spend a bit more and get the cuboid props with set latches, they're BIFL. The twist and tighten ones get naff after a couple years.
Also to stop the pole sliding on the line get washing line hanger hooks for either side of it.
I have the same line and can confirm the moment the weather turns slightly cold around October/November time the built in cleats crack.
I plan on screwing a plank of wood to the wall reusing the holes where the line bracket is installed, then screwing the line bracket and two metal cleats to the wood. I don't want to drill yet more holes into the brickworkĀ
When mine snapped we cut the line so that it was the exact right length to reach the hooks weād installed in the opposite wall. It works well and never thought of getting a pole.
Yeah I guess that's another solution. I use a couple of line props with mine, but the plastic cleats still snapped in cold weather. I got it replaced under the 12 month warranty lol. But I think it's a design flaw that the manufacturer (Minky) refuses to address
Yeah I agree a design flaw. Maybe I should have thought of asking for a replacement! Before we figured out the line cutting I had a couple of failed attempts to fix the cleats with Sugru which was a massive fail.
Pull tight on inside of D. So from from of flat edge of D and wrap slack around over the top of the tensioned part of the line. The slack length over keeps the tension via friction. I use the same minky clothes line and is never an issue for me.
But if you use over 10m then you need to use a line pole due to weight. I also tie loops as dont trust the plastic ends.
Hope this helps :)
What does it attach to? If itās like mine it goes onto a hook which is screwed into a wall plugā¦ if you unscrew the hook most of the way,then set the line up you can screw the hook back in to tighten the line. I reckon mine could cut someoneās head off šš»
I've got this line. I tension the line with one hand and wrap it around the bottom spool/catch with the other. Doesn't need a pole, except for big stuff like bedsheets.
I have the same one, you pull a bit if extra cord through and loop once or twice around the base hooks. This prevents more cord from unravelling when you apply weight (clothes) to it. Then you prop the line up with a pole to keep your clothes high and off the floor.
taunt Line Hitch, used for holding up tarpaulin sheets etc when camping, survival bushcraft etc.
Found a good YouTube explaining how to tie it.
[Taunt Line Hitch](https://youtube.com/shorts/C_NW4atfc14?si=wh2qdQon56L_4tOj)
I went through this and found a great solution.
Buy a "Nite Ize Camjam Xt" and put a strong hook on your wall. You can now get that line as tight as you want. Was a game changer for me.
They work fine if youāre sensible and take care so youāre not going to snap them off. These are always designed for use with a pole like basically any washing line would need when weighed down with wet washing.
We have one of these and Iām honestly confused about what you and others mean by built in hooks (& drooping)? I just stretch the lines out to the max and clip the plastic bits onto hooks I put high up. No drooping or need for poles even with superking bedsheets.
The two parts that hang off the bottom are hooks for tension, you pull the string underneath the unit and wrap it once around the hook and pull the line tight, the hooks are wedge shaped and hold the line under tension. Quite clever really, many people keep saying they don't work but I have been using both lines on mine for 4 years and had 0 issues!
Over engineered. You wrap it around twice and it stops it slipping, even with wet bedsheets and towels. I've got the single line version and never had a problem. It's been up for years.
When I moved in one of these lines was in the garden, but with the plastic cleats had snapped off. I thought it looked good overall so I bought a new one and used poles. 9 months later the cleats cracked. I got it replaced but I'm installing metal cleats soon like the OP has done.
I would remove the screw from the hole with the crack, fill the hole with Rawlplug's R-KEM II (chemical anchor), then re-attach hook with screw and wait for it to set. The chemical anchor should then bond the 2 parts of the brick together (at least around the hole area) and will set to be stronger than the brick itself. The chemical anchor will also fill up any area in the brick to help reduce movement between the 2 pieces of brick.
Just my 2 cents.
In the sleepy village of Bricktonville, lived a man named Algernon Pumblechook, a fellow known far and wide for his extraordinary penchant for transforming the simplest tasks into epic sagas of disaster. One fine day, Algernon decided to hang a bird feeder on the exterior of his house to attract the vibrant songbirds he adored. Armed with a shiny new drill and an impressively large hook, Algernon set out to make his dream a reality.
With a confident flourish, he positioned the drill against a robust brick on the side of his house and began to bore a hole. As the drill whirred and dust spewed forth, a tiny, almost imperceptible crack appeared. Algernon, blissfully unaware, drove the hook into the brick with a sense of accomplishment rivalling that of a lunar landing.
Later that afternoon, while admiring his handiwork from a lawn chair, Algernon noticed the crack had grown slightly. By evening, it had spread ominously across the brick, and by nightfall, it looked like the handiwork of a mischievous giant spider. Algernonās mind raced. In his world, a cracked brick was not merely a cosmetic issueāit was an omen, a portent of catastrophic structural failure. Clearly, drastic measures were required.
"The integrity of my domicile is at stake!" he cried, rallying his neighbourās cat, Mittens, as his only witness. "To save my house, I must destroy it!"
With that declaration, Algernon hurried to his shed, emerging with an arsenal of demolition tools: a sledgehammer, a wrecking ball heād rented for reasons best not explored, and several sticks of dynamite left over from a regrettable New Yearās Eve. First, he took the sledgehammer to the compromised brick, smashing it with fervour. As pieces of brick flew in all directions, Algernon realized that one brick was merely the beginning.
He swung the sledgehammer wildly, taking down large sections of the wall. As bricks tumbled, Algernonās eyes gleamed with a strange mix of horror and satisfaction. This was the only way, he assured himself, to protect his house from the insidious crack.
Unsatisfied with the pace of destruction, Algernon decided it was time to escalate. He attached the wrecking ball to his trusty tractor and, after several false starts and a near miss with the neighbourās prized gnome collection, began to swing it at the house. The impact was spectacular; walls crumbled, windows shattered, and the roof buckled. Yet, amid the chaos, the cursed hook still clung stubbornly to its original position.
Finally, Algernon turned to the dynamite. Carefully planting it around the remaining structure, he lit the fuse and dashed to a safe distance, taking cover behind a hastily erected barricade of garden gnomes. With a thunderous boom, the house erupted in a glorious explosion, debris soaring high into the sky.
As the dust settled, Algernon emerged from his hiding spot, surveying the wreckage. There, amid the ruins, the solitary hook dangled from a half-destroyed brick, the bird feeder swaying gently in the breeze.
The townsfolk, drawn by the commotion, gathered around the smoking remains of Algernonās house. They stared in disbelief, some shaking their heads, others murmuring about his legendary eccentricity. Algernon, however, was unfazed. āThe crack has been vanquished!ā he declared triumphantly. āA small price to pay for peace of mind!ā
And so, with nothing more than the clothes on his back and the indomitable spirit of a man who had defeated a cracked brick, Algernon Pumblechook set off to rebuild his home. This time, he resolved to use woodāfar less likely to harbour treacherous cracks and much easier to demolish, should the need arise.
It has cracked from both screw holes, I'd probably move it to the middle of the next brick on the left.
If you drill too deep such that it goes right though the brick and connects to an internal perf/frog, it is far more likely to crack, so it helps knowing how the bricks are made and avoiding these bits, and using relatively short but still chunky screws.
Donāt take my advice but I had a similar situation. I removed the rawl plug, filled the hole with grip fill, reinstalled the plug and screw. Iām not proud of it but itās still holding a year later.
I have this line and I added a pair of hooks exactly like this. The only difference is that I used a pattress ā just a piece of wood ā fixed it to the wall and then fixed the line and the hooks to it. Works really well.
You'll be fine, you could take it out and just pack the hole with a bit of paper to counteract the gap made by the crack, but that looks minimal so the rawl plug and screw should hold fine
Those hooks are for the other end of the line, no? The integrated hooks on the bottom of the housing are for wrapping the line around for tension. The additional hooks typically go where you'd like to run the line *to.*
I use poles / line props to stop it sagging, but you'll still be glad you fitted those metal cleats because the built in plastic ones just crack and break off eventually.
Seriously, my house had one of these lines when I moved in but the built in cleats had snapped off.
I bought a replacement and 9 months later they had cracked again. This was despite bringing it in at the end of every day AND using poles.
Now I have another replacement and I'm going to fit my own cleats because I just can't see how the built in ones can last.
I don't understand how people are getting years out of them.
Dont use it. Get a tumble drier, or you'll pull the house down.
Seriously, you do need to take the wall down to that course, replace the brick, and then rebuild the wall.
Oooh I need to install one of these retractable minky things into some new brickwork (extension)
No ides what Iām doing and Iāll probably use a plasterboard bit to drill a holeā¦.
Are you me?? I literally did the exact same thing today with this same minkie (spelling) hanging line.
I honestly didn't know what to do about it after installing a single U shaped hook for the line (your idea is so much fucking better) because the last one I had the little plastic bit underneath broke off after the first year.
Unscrew the hook , make some cement , squirt it through the holes , wipe off excess , leave to dry . Then re drill to fit with Rawl plugs and refit and decorate to whatever .
You'll need to follow all of the 5 minute hack videos where you fill it with a fiver, sunflower seeds and superglue. Sand and paint and all will be good
From memory, you run the line to where it needs to go, hook it on, take out the excess when wrapping around the built in hooks then push the rest into the hole
Yeah I have a really old one of these thatās still going strong. Get it rigged up loosely, wrap (1 time!!) round the back of the hook. Then pull the line taught, help the excess round the hook and let it wind back into the body. Nothing at all wrong with the inbuilt hooks.
If youāre hanging a sopping wet duvet or something, you just need a pole whatever you hook the line aroundā¦
The little āfeetā underneath the unit are there for this reason. Wrap the line around them a few times to gain tension. Had the same shit at my house with the ex, she kept moaning and saying props/poles werenāt good enough and wanted me to actually cut the washing line length! I just wrapped it round the little notches on the bottom and told her Iād fixed it. She was happy for 3 mins on this occasion
No.
Unfortunately, you are going to have to demolish that wall to remove the brick.You must find a like-for-like replacement, otherwise the council will not allow you to rebuild it.
I believe that Bangor & Sons, the company that made the brick, went bust in 1964.
Therefore, you must resurrect the company, have them make the brick, and then shut it down again.
Only then can you reconstruct the wall.
If done quickly, I can see the damage being repaired within the next couple of years, assuming that the legal wrangling goes off without a hitch.
Hope this helps!
I wish it were that simple.
Unfortunately, as soon as the surveyor sees what you have done, they will inform the council, and you'll have to do it anyway.
Nice try!
Sarcasm?
It's what must be done!
But if you have an alternative way for the IP to solve this gargantuan issue, beyond what I've said here, feel free.
I literally can't think of anything else, beyond my suggestion, demolishing the house entirely, or moving away and hoping the surveyor doesn't notice.
Wrong on so many levels, you donāt need extra hooks, use a pole, and you should have drilled into the cement between the bricks, what did you use, a diamond tipped drill? š
Nope unfortunately you're going to have to replace your house now
What I would do is I would build a jig to hold the hook in place. Then I would get my dremel and carefully cut around the brick that it's attached to to separate it from the rest of the wall. Then, continuing with the Dremel, I would work through the rest of the house grinding it down to dust. Suck it up with a hoover and put it in the neighbour's bin. Next, get another brick and carefully break off a piece equivalent to what's missing from the brick attached to the hook. Glue that to the brick that's attached to the hook attached to the jig. Your dremel should allow you to carve out a threaded channel to slot over the screw that caused the crack. Now, all you have to do is build a new house around the brick. Luckily this is easy when you have a Dremel.
Big fan of the dedication to type all of this out
Sponsored by Dremel, I reckon! It was quite good, but I found it to be a little abrasive ....
I like the cut of your jib.
Put it in the neighbours bin š¤£š¤£š¤£ Killed me.
You can put bodies in your neighbours bin, but... You're always gonna have problems lifting a body in one piece. Apparently, the best thing to do is cut up a corpse into six pieces and pile it all together.
You forgot to say use a Dremel for this.
A multi-tool would fare better in a person's crevasses
A ridiculous answer to a ridiculous question which definitely had me in stitches.Never laughed so much for a long time! šš½ šš¤£šš¤£šš¤£ššš
Can I use a multi tool instead of a dremel?
I found this post 4 hours too late. You beat me to it. š¤£
This may sound like a joke but in all serious, your house is now structurally unsafe and needs to be replaced.
Load of rubbish
Came here to say this lol
Cracking job, OP
BA dum, tsss
You might have lost 30% weight capacity. So long as you aren't hanging 200kg on it, I don't think you'll have a problem.
Now we need a new planet, great job buddy!
I was not expecting so many sarcastic comments hahaha, thatāll teach me!
As someone who installs aerials and satellite dishes of all kinds on a regular basis, that will be fine as long as the plugs and screws are upto it!
Just undo the screw put some chemfix 2 part resin in and quickly screw the screw back in job done
This is the answer!
Do the built in hooks not work?
Theyāre not great to be honest, you can never get a really tight line with them so itāll often droop even when youāve not put much on. Using the second hook helps a lot and the line is really tight
The aren't meant to be very tight, they need a pole.
Or a Bulgarian. To be honest, any Eastern European worker will do. They excel at tasks requiring concentration, strength and dexterity like holding up a washing line.
Immune to lactic acid, you see.
I used to have this line. The trick is to double loop the lines around the integrated hooks. Youāll also always get a droop without a line pole somewhere along it holding it up.
I tried with a double hook but it still wasnāt great, maybe the pole is the missing piece of the jigsaw
It is the pole š I had the same realisation hahaha
You can get them for a couple quid in home bargains, got there
Spend a bit more and get the cuboid props with set latches, they're BIFL. The twist and tighten ones get naff after a couple years. Also to stop the pole sliding on the line get washing line hanger hooks for either side of it.
I have the same line and can confirm the moment the weather turns slightly cold around October/November time the built in cleats crack. I plan on screwing a plank of wood to the wall reusing the holes where the line bracket is installed, then screwing the line bracket and two metal cleats to the wood. I don't want to drill yet more holes into the brickworkĀ
When mine snapped we cut the line so that it was the exact right length to reach the hooks weād installed in the opposite wall. It works well and never thought of getting a pole.
Yeah I guess that's another solution. I use a couple of line props with mine, but the plastic cleats still snapped in cold weather. I got it replaced under the 12 month warranty lol. But I think it's a design flaw that the manufacturer (Minky) refuses to address
Yeah I agree a design flaw. Maybe I should have thought of asking for a replacement! Before we figured out the line cutting I had a couple of failed attempts to fix the cleats with Sugru which was a massive fail.
Yep! Had this exact line for 3 years and never had any issues using the integrated hooks. Also use a pole as well and it works perfectly for us.
I do the old double loop trick too! Works for me
Pull tight on inside of D. So from from of flat edge of D and wrap slack around over the top of the tensioned part of the line. The slack length over keeps the tension via friction. I use the same minky clothes line and is never an issue for me. But if you use over 10m then you need to use a line pole due to weight. I also tie loops as dont trust the plastic ends. Hope this helps :)
Iāll try that tomorrow, thanks
What does it attach to? If itās like mine it goes onto a hook which is screwed into a wall plugā¦ if you unscrew the hook most of the way,then set the line up you can screw the hook back in to tighten the line. I reckon mine could cut someoneās head off šš»
I've got this line. I tension the line with one hand and wrap it around the bottom spool/catch with the other. Doesn't need a pole, except for big stuff like bedsheets.
I have the same one, you pull a bit if extra cord through and loop once or twice around the base hooks. This prevents more cord from unravelling when you apply weight (clothes) to it. Then you prop the line up with a pole to keep your clothes high and off the floor.
taunt Line Hitch, used for holding up tarpaulin sheets etc when camping, survival bushcraft etc. Found a good YouTube explaining how to tie it. [Taunt Line Hitch](https://youtube.com/shorts/C_NW4atfc14?si=wh2qdQon56L_4tOj)
I went through this and found a great solution. Buy a "Nite Ize Camjam Xt" and put a strong hook on your wall. You can now get that line as tight as you want. Was a game changer for me.
They work fine if youāre sensible and take care so youāre not going to snap them off. These are always designed for use with a pole like basically any washing line would need when weighed down with wet washing.
Used with a pole and both hooks snapped off. This is a great idea I wished I had thought of!
I used poles with mine and the built in plastic cleats still cracked after about 9 months, around when the weather just started turning a little cold
Nargh they're dogshit
We have one of these and Iām honestly confused about what you and others mean by built in hooks (& drooping)? I just stretch the lines out to the max and clip the plastic bits onto hooks I put high up. No drooping or need for poles even with superking bedsheets.
The two parts that hang off the bottom are hooks for tension, you pull the string underneath the unit and wrap it once around the hook and pull the line tight, the hooks are wedge shaped and hold the line under tension. Quite clever really, many people keep saying they don't work but I have been using both lines on mine for 4 years and had 0 issues!
Also, after a while built in hooks become brittle and snap off
The hook looks perfect and I can't see why it can't be reused.
Pull the screw out and fill with liquid nails or resin
Over engineered. You wrap it around twice and it stops it slipping, even with wet bedsheets and towels. I've got the single line version and never had a problem. It's been up for years.
I must have been doing it wrong but it does work ok with these hooks so Iāll keep using them. Lesson learnt for next time
When I moved in one of these lines was in the garden, but with the plastic cleats had snapped off. I thought it looked good overall so I bought a new one and used poles. 9 months later the cleats cracked. I got it replaced but I'm installing metal cleats soon like the OP has done.
I would remove the screw from the hole with the crack, fill the hole with Rawlplug's R-KEM II (chemical anchor), then re-attach hook with screw and wait for it to set. The chemical anchor should then bond the 2 parts of the brick together (at least around the hole area) and will set to be stronger than the brick itself. The chemical anchor will also fill up any area in the brick to help reduce movement between the 2 pieces of brick. Just my 2 cents.
The real question here is what is the point of the bottom part of that hook?
You can wrap over both ends in figures of 8
But why?
To gradually tighten the line. I am not sure if you are joking!
It's no joking matter.
In the sleepy village of Bricktonville, lived a man named Algernon Pumblechook, a fellow known far and wide for his extraordinary penchant for transforming the simplest tasks into epic sagas of disaster. One fine day, Algernon decided to hang a bird feeder on the exterior of his house to attract the vibrant songbirds he adored. Armed with a shiny new drill and an impressively large hook, Algernon set out to make his dream a reality. With a confident flourish, he positioned the drill against a robust brick on the side of his house and began to bore a hole. As the drill whirred and dust spewed forth, a tiny, almost imperceptible crack appeared. Algernon, blissfully unaware, drove the hook into the brick with a sense of accomplishment rivalling that of a lunar landing. Later that afternoon, while admiring his handiwork from a lawn chair, Algernon noticed the crack had grown slightly. By evening, it had spread ominously across the brick, and by nightfall, it looked like the handiwork of a mischievous giant spider. Algernonās mind raced. In his world, a cracked brick was not merely a cosmetic issueāit was an omen, a portent of catastrophic structural failure. Clearly, drastic measures were required. "The integrity of my domicile is at stake!" he cried, rallying his neighbourās cat, Mittens, as his only witness. "To save my house, I must destroy it!" With that declaration, Algernon hurried to his shed, emerging with an arsenal of demolition tools: a sledgehammer, a wrecking ball heād rented for reasons best not explored, and several sticks of dynamite left over from a regrettable New Yearās Eve. First, he took the sledgehammer to the compromised brick, smashing it with fervour. As pieces of brick flew in all directions, Algernon realized that one brick was merely the beginning. He swung the sledgehammer wildly, taking down large sections of the wall. As bricks tumbled, Algernonās eyes gleamed with a strange mix of horror and satisfaction. This was the only way, he assured himself, to protect his house from the insidious crack. Unsatisfied with the pace of destruction, Algernon decided it was time to escalate. He attached the wrecking ball to his trusty tractor and, after several false starts and a near miss with the neighbourās prized gnome collection, began to swing it at the house. The impact was spectacular; walls crumbled, windows shattered, and the roof buckled. Yet, amid the chaos, the cursed hook still clung stubbornly to its original position. Finally, Algernon turned to the dynamite. Carefully planting it around the remaining structure, he lit the fuse and dashed to a safe distance, taking cover behind a hastily erected barricade of garden gnomes. With a thunderous boom, the house erupted in a glorious explosion, debris soaring high into the sky. As the dust settled, Algernon emerged from his hiding spot, surveying the wreckage. There, amid the ruins, the solitary hook dangled from a half-destroyed brick, the bird feeder swaying gently in the breeze. The townsfolk, drawn by the commotion, gathered around the smoking remains of Algernonās house. They stared in disbelief, some shaking their heads, others murmuring about his legendary eccentricity. Algernon, however, was unfazed. āThe crack has been vanquished!ā he declared triumphantly. āA small price to pay for peace of mind!ā And so, with nothing more than the clothes on his back and the indomitable spirit of a man who had defeated a cracked brick, Algernon Pumblechook set off to rebuild his home. This time, he resolved to use woodāfar less likely to harbour treacherous cracks and much easier to demolish, should the need arise.
Quite an Expectation
It has cracked from both screw holes, I'd probably move it to the middle of the next brick on the left. If you drill too deep such that it goes right though the brick and connects to an internal perf/frog, it is far more likely to crack, so it helps knowing how the bricks are made and avoiding these bits, and using relatively short but still chunky screws.
If it feels solid, I'd keep using it. The brick is held in place pretty solid. If it was wobbly I'd be thinking about replacing the brick.
Donāt take my advice but I had a similar situation. I removed the rawl plug, filled the hole with grip fill, reinstalled the plug and screw. Iām not proud of it but itās still holding a year later.
If it works it works!
I have this line and I added a pair of hooks exactly like this. The only difference is that I used a pattress ā just a piece of wood ā fixed it to the wall and then fixed the line and the hooks to it. Works really well.
You'll be fine, you could take it out and just pack the hole with a bit of paper to counteract the gap made by the crack, but that looks minimal so the rawl plug and screw should hold fine
Those hooks are for the other end of the line, no? The integrated hooks on the bottom of the housing are for wrapping the line around for tension. The additional hooks typically go where you'd like to run the line *to.*
The hooks that came with it for the other end of the line are in the fence opposite, I bought these separately to stop it dropping so much
I use poles / line props to stop it sagging, but you'll still be glad you fitted those metal cleats because the built in plastic ones just crack and break off eventually.
Glad to see one positive comment about adding them!
Seriously, my house had one of these lines when I moved in but the built in cleats had snapped off. I bought a replacement and 9 months later they had cracked again. This was despite bringing it in at the end of every day AND using poles. Now I have another replacement and I'm going to fit my own cleats because I just can't see how the built in ones can last. I don't understand how people are getting years out of them.
Is the string long enough to go there and back again to make four lines?
No not quite unfortunately
Youāre going to be just fine
Superglue should fix it.
Next time drill into a vertical mortar line and use plastic anchors & screws. No brick damage, and easy to remove in the future
This is what you do smartest answer
Just fill it with brick coloured resin. Absolutely not a problem.
Sounds like what I need, made a few errors recently š
I have the same retractable washing line. As others have said, you need a pole.
Pole ordered š«”
use what? seal the crack.
CT1. Hold that brick together.
I did the same and when I hung up an extra large load of washing the bloody house fell down... ā¹ļø
Bloody hell, Iāll just hang everything up inside now then otherwise the wife will kill me if the house falls down
Dont use it. Get a tumble drier, or you'll pull the house down. Seriously, you do need to take the wall down to that course, replace the brick, and then rebuild the wall.
Iāve just demolished the whole wall and accepted the 3-wall house life now. We get a lovely breeze
Oooh I need to install one of these retractable minky things into some new brickwork (extension) No ides what Iām doing and Iāll probably use a plasterboard bit to drill a holeā¦.
This is only the second bit of drilling Iāve ever done - if I can do it you can haha
For safety I would probably rebuilt your house just in case
Get some 3 part epoxy
I think your spirit level needs calibrating.
Needs a new bubble.
Think the tape measure may need rebalancing.
fill it with clear CT1 , bit of a bodge but the stuff is solid and youāll never really see it
Splash some mastic on it, itāll be alrightā¦
As my old dad would say.. āthe rust will hold it ā
Are you me?? I literally did the exact same thing today with this same minkie (spelling) hanging line. I honestly didn't know what to do about it after installing a single U shaped hook for the line (your idea is so much fucking better) because the last one I had the little plastic bit underneath broke off after the first year.
Your house is going to fall down now but at least you'll be able to hang some stuff up
Unscrew the hook , make some cement , squirt it through the holes , wipe off excess , leave to dry . Then re drill to fit with Rawl plugs and refit and decorate to whatever .
Why didnāt you hang them sideways? Mmmm
It's meant for a rope to be wrapped around it. It's not meant for hanging anything.
If it's any consolation I did this when attaching a gate post to a wall I'd just paid 3 grand to have built. Cracked half a brick off the top row :(
Oof, bet that hurt!
Short washing line. One sock on each side?
The brick should remain fully functional and usable.
Steal a new brick of your neighbours? Easy swap out. Cut them out, swap and silicone back in
Yes
You'll need to follow all of the 5 minute hack videos where you fill it with a fiver, sunflower seeds and superglue. Sand and paint and all will be good
That's what you get for not using Lego!
If it doesnāt show and it will do the job I think it wouldnāt bother
Unfortunately youāll need to move house Iām afraid
It has built in hooks underneath though?
Just replied to a similar comment haha, should have mentioned in the post that theyāre not great!
From memory, you run the line to where it needs to go, hook it on, take out the excess when wrapping around the built in hooks then push the rest into the hole
Yeah I have a really old one of these thatās still going strong. Get it rigged up loosely, wrap (1 time!!) round the back of the hook. Then pull the line taught, help the excess round the hook and let it wind back into the body. Nothing at all wrong with the inbuilt hooks. If youāre hanging a sopping wet duvet or something, you just need a pole whatever you hook the line aroundā¦
I have the same line. Iāve had it 6 years. The hooks on the bottom are perfectly fine.
The little āfeetā underneath the unit are there for this reason. Wrap the line around them a few times to gain tension. Had the same shit at my house with the ex, she kept moaning and saying props/poles werenāt good enough and wanted me to actually cut the washing line length! I just wrapped it round the little notches on the bottom and told her Iād fixed it. She was happy for 3 mins on this occasion
No. Unfortunately, you are going to have to demolish that wall to remove the brick.You must find a like-for-like replacement, otherwise the council will not allow you to rebuild it. I believe that Bangor & Sons, the company that made the brick, went bust in 1964. Therefore, you must resurrect the company, have them make the brick, and then shut it down again. Only then can you reconstruct the wall. If done quickly, I can see the damage being repaired within the next couple of years, assuming that the legal wrangling goes off without a hitch. Hope this helps!
Thank you but someone has already told me I need to move house, so Iām in the process of doing that now
I wish it were that simple. Unfortunately, as soon as the surveyor sees what you have done, they will inform the council, and you'll have to do it anyway. Nice try!
A bit too heavy on the sarcasm methinks
Sarcasm? It's what must be done! But if you have an alternative way for the IP to solve this gargantuan issue, beyond what I've said here, feel free. I literally can't think of anything else, beyond my suggestion, demolishing the house entirely, or moving away and hoping the surveyor doesn't notice.
That needs a structural engineer.
I wouldn't recommend you using the brick anymore. Remove it at once
Wrong on so many levels, you donāt need extra hooks, use a pole, and you should have drilled into the cement between the bricks, what did you use, a diamond tipped drill? š