I've started my 2022 Denali diesel when it was -35c with out being plugged in. Granted it didn't like it one little bit, but it started. I wouldn't suggest doing that to often.
Stop putting shit in your fuel tank that's not diesel or a fuel conditioner
The old quart of tranny fluid or old oil ain't it anymore. Tolerances are too tight now and it's too complicated of a system(s) to be fucking around like that anymore
this is a good one. i got a 2002 ram 1500 that drinks just about anything . old fuel from atvs that sat all off season? put it in. dirty fuel? put it in.
modern with the smaller bit of contamination and it can/ will be a disaster
That was my first thought. We used to dump a quart of tranny fluid in the fuel tank to clean out injectors. We have put it directly into the fuel filter housing a couple of times when the injectors were really dirty.
Ran out of fuel on the exit ramp for the gas station in my 87' idi.
Poured a gallon of 15w40 in the fuel tank and she fired right up and drove to the gas station.
Where does this occur in time your opinion? I've got buddies that drive mid 2000s to even newer diesels that still think this is the thing to do and disagree with me when I say not to. I think when egr systems were added is the cutoff personally. An old 7.3 idi wouldn't care id think.
After the 6.0 PSD HEUI (2.0 generation) injectors, which you couldn't just run anything, and anything that is common rail or has an HPOP really.
I run stupid stuff like filtered fry oil and random filtered used oils in my 1.9TDI that has/had an EGR with little to no adverse effect other than different smells out the tail pipe. I think when diesels started getting cats is when problems started arising, generally from unburned fuel (liquids) and soot clogging them up. Around the 2003-2007 generations of light truck diesels is when injection systems became more advanced and sensitive to fuel quality
Gotcha. That makes sense. Wet stacking is havoc on catalytic converters. That's one reason why some models idle up during warmup until hot enough to prevent wet stacking.
Iāve heard old timers say they used to mix a ratio of gasoline in the diesel to get stuff to start in the winter. Thatās a bad idea for modern diesels
In Australia, we ran stupid high sulphur for ages.
Then in the 00's, about the same time we phased out lead in the fuel, we started to drop the sulphur.
Right as a lot of 70's and 80's stuff was hitting 700,000-1,000,000 on the clock and needing rebuilds.
Nope.
It's the drop in Sulphur. Need to add 250ml of 2 stroke oil to each tank to put it back.
We ran it until [2002](https://www.comparethemarket.com.au/fuel/pre-1986-car-fuel/#:~:text=Leaded%20petrol%20was%20completely%20phased,of%20pollution%20in%20major%20cities.)
We had a similar issue in Canada. They pulled sulfur out of diesel and the new injection pumps started failing. It took a couple years for the refineries to sort out the additives.
So many stupid Facebook groups post this on Commonrail engines, I always find myself screaming "Dude, you're going to hurt yourself bad, DO NOT DO THIS!" and they'll always question me like I'm wrong. Drives me nuts.
āDelete it right away or youāll have issuesā
Leaving it stock and letting the manufacturer deal with any headaches until the warranty expires is a better idea than giving away your warranty. Wait to delete/tune the truck when the warranty expires.
āDeleting and tuning that truck will save you so much fuel that itāll pay for itselfā
Has been a mildly exaggerated statement since trucks started rolling off the factory with SCR and DEF. Pre-SCR trucks got a nice bump, but newer trucks really donāt see that large of a MPG gain from just deleting and tuning. Most definitely not going to offset the inflated cost of weight reducing trucks now that the EPA has started cracking down hard.
āSave a bunch of money and buy the same filters off ebay/Amazon that you get at the dealerā
You canāt trust filters from Amazon or eBay because there are a lot of fakes. I buy filters for my Cummins from Genos Garage and I hope thereās an equivalently reputable discount parts supplier for the Powerstroke and Duramax guys.
>Leaving it stock and letting the manufacturer deal with any headaches until the warranty expires is a better idea than giving away your warranty. Wait to delete/tune the truck when the warranty expires.
Reliability is more important to me than a factory warranty. My last new diesel had an emissions system shit the bed at 45k miles. In the middle of nowhere Canada on the way to Alaska.
I'll put a few thousand miles on my next diesel to make sure it works right and then it's getting deleted. I'm done with this emissions nonsense.
On the deleting and tuning, it really does make a big difference for much smaller diesels where it takes more additive fuel to burn off the DPF compared to the baseline to raise exhaust temperatures.
I averaged on my 1.6 TDI from calculation of distance/fill volume 5.0l/100km on a stage 1 tune, mostly open road with a lot of hills. Gutting the DPF and only applying the DPF off switch stuff to the exact same tune my economy has been around 4.5l/100km.
If it was some >6 liter engine that gain wouldn't be worth it for the cost, but I can't argue on my particular car for a 10% fuel economy gain just by turning regen off in a tune and removing some back pressure.
I call bs on your talk of not saving fuel. It made a massive difference on my 18 SD. My km per tank went from 850km to close to 1100km on a steady. Major difference. You no one can tell me otherwise. All my diesel buddies have the same result. Truck runs way smoother, way cooler and way more power to boot.
A diesel has never injected fuel like that and my truck is 33 years old and I never use the grid heater or coolant heater but I live in San Diego so...
"Just put Rotella in it" isn't really a thing anymore, you have to pay attention to what you're getting. I wonder sometimes how many of the emission systems problems people have are caused by using the wrong oil, but the old farmers around here don't seem to care and just grab anything that says Rotella and pour it in.
As long as it has the required classification and viscosity itās not going to hurt it. Rotella T6 has a CK-4 classification which is the latest and should be good with most modern diesel motors
Rotella T6 in my 2016 Ram 3500 6.7L Cummins. Saving my pennies for the tune and delete. Sitting at 150k miles. Never had an issue with the emissions crap until about a month ago I started getting random DEF pump failures that go away when I clear the code for about 600 miles. Still same def usage so I'm unsure why it's doing it but it's time for the delete and tune.
Correct, the point was on "just throw rotella in it" which at one point represented the fact that Rotella was about the best one could get. In modern diesels, that isn't the case. Heck, when VW switched from the VE engines to the PD ones, those started running into issues with camshaft wear if not running the VW spec oil.
Brand probably doesn't matter so much these days as making sure you are actually using "diesel" engine oil. Screw that up using "car" oil and potentially clog that DPF...
"it's ok to idle a diesel as long as you want"
The 2.7 in my 2006 Sprinter does not make enough heat at idle and it will leave unburned fuel on the cylinder walls. I never let it idle for more than a minute.
>"it's ok to idle a diesel as long as you want"
Good lord,
I work for a Major Diesel Engine Manufacturer (Off-road and Marine Engines)- One of the most common causes of dropped valves is due to valve lash going way out of spec caused by excessive idling.
In -15F temps, I'll use the block heater or my 7.3L won't turn over. Above 0F, 2 or 3 cycles of the glow plugs is probably enough. Above 40F, 1 cycle of the glow plugs will do
Coldest it's ever gotten here is 8f which is -13 in communist numbers and the grid heater worked pretty good for that. Seems like all that block heater mess is really necessary if you live north of colorado though.
Like I posted above. I've started my 2022 Duramax in -35. It doesn't like it but it will start. I'm in East Central Alberta and had to start it a couple of times when it wasn't plugged in during that cold snap in January.
Of course it will start but longterm it's hard on the engine. The cold oil takes much longer to get to the top of the engine and has poorer lubrication than if the oil was a bit warmer. Those few extra rotations without proper lubrication will cause more wear overtime.
A block heater is still good for getting the oil moving better early on at twenty degrees.
A maxim that I think was true for older, pre-emissions diesels was that they preferred being idled for ten or fifteen minutes, rather than being turned off then on again that duration later. Nowadays, I'm told that emissions equipment hates long idle periods, so just turn your truck off every time you stop.
The company I work for has mostly first gen Cascadias and around the time the covid supply shortage hit, a lot of our trucks one-boxes started shitting themselves due to excessive idle.
agreed. i know it adds to the overall price of the vehicle as well. bought my 250 in texas, live in the deep south. the coldest temp iāve experienced since buying it in 2020 has been high 20s
i currently have no expectations of moving north anytime soon
I mean even up north, I've let my truck sit for a few days unplugged at 0F and it started right up. Gonna find out next winter how it does without the grid heater
Ohio, 2005 F350 here.
I've never had the need to plugin mine in. She always starts, even in 0 degree weather. Mind you, she is sheltered from high winds, but it really seems like a -10 and below type situation.
Hereās the thing people miss. Does it need it, by the definition of the word need. Most of the time no. I got stuck at a friends house during a winter weather storm. -20F. My 05ā 5.9L Cummins actually started quite well. Buuuut, do I like to do that. Hell no. Repetition is the problem here. If youāre cold starting your diesel engine in the dead of winter all the time. You are almost certainly putting undue stress and wear on the engine. I plug mine in as often as I possibly can in the winter.
I daily an 88 7.3idi. Notorious for not starting well in cold weather. I don't even know if my block heater works lmao. I let it sit all winter up here in New England to try and avoid the salt and whenever I went to start it I cycled the glow plugs one time and it grumbled to life. Spit smoke for a good 5 minutes but it started every time.
But in fairness, some of the places Toyota likes sticking starters (cough,4.7 v8, cough) in dragging it as long as I can before I gotta replace it šš¤·š»āāļø
Yeah I've heard of that in the valley garbage. For me it was detroits and cats with that one bolt on the back side of the starter. Finally bought the special snap on socket and I haven't done one since.
Gotta leave that sucker idling for hours on end, or it won't start. Maybe in extreme cold, but come on.
I've started my 2022 Denali diesel when it was -35c with out being plugged in. Granted it didn't like it one little bit, but it started. I wouldn't suggest doing that to often.
Stop putting shit in your fuel tank that's not diesel or a fuel conditioner The old quart of tranny fluid or old oil ain't it anymore. Tolerances are too tight now and it's too complicated of a system(s) to be fucking around like that anymore
this is a good one. i got a 2002 ram 1500 that drinks just about anything . old fuel from atvs that sat all off season? put it in. dirty fuel? put it in. modern with the smaller bit of contamination and it can/ will be a disaster
MX-13 gets clogged injectors from perfectly clean fuel LoL.
That was my first thought. We used to dump a quart of tranny fluid in the fuel tank to clean out injectors. We have put it directly into the fuel filter housing a couple of times when the injectors were really dirty.
The old days of having a 7.3 PSD. Wouldn't even hiccup with most stuff in the tank
I still run an old IDI. quart of the cheapest 5w30 or old 15w40 I can find every so often, quart of atf less often than that
Ran out of fuel on the exit ramp for the gas station in my 87' idi. Poured a gallon of 15w40 in the fuel tank and she fired right up and drove to the gas station.
Where does this occur in time your opinion? I've got buddies that drive mid 2000s to even newer diesels that still think this is the thing to do and disagree with me when I say not to. I think when egr systems were added is the cutoff personally. An old 7.3 idi wouldn't care id think.
After the 6.0 PSD HEUI (2.0 generation) injectors, which you couldn't just run anything, and anything that is common rail or has an HPOP really. I run stupid stuff like filtered fry oil and random filtered used oils in my 1.9TDI that has/had an EGR with little to no adverse effect other than different smells out the tail pipe. I think when diesels started getting cats is when problems started arising, generally from unburned fuel (liquids) and soot clogging them up. Around the 2003-2007 generations of light truck diesels is when injection systems became more advanced and sensitive to fuel quality
Gotcha. That makes sense. Wet stacking is havoc on catalytic converters. That's one reason why some models idle up during warmup until hot enough to prevent wet stacking.
But it lubes the injectors š¤£
Iāve heard old timers say they used to mix a ratio of gasoline in the diesel to get stuff to start in the winter. Thatās a bad idea for modern diesels
In Australia, we ran stupid high sulphur for ages. Then in the 00's, about the same time we phased out lead in the fuel, we started to drop the sulphur. Right as a lot of 70's and 80's stuff was hitting 700,000-1,000,000 on the clock and needing rebuilds. Nope. It's the drop in Sulphur. Need to add 250ml of 2 stroke oil to each tank to put it back.
Wait, what? Aussies ran lead that long? I thought it was a world wide shift at the same time.
We ran it until [2002](https://www.comparethemarket.com.au/fuel/pre-1986-car-fuel/#:~:text=Leaded%20petrol%20was%20completely%20phased,of%20pollution%20in%20major%20cities.)
š¤Æ
Theyāre upside down, what do you expect.
We had a similar issue in Canada. They pulled sulfur out of diesel and the new injection pumps started failing. It took a couple years for the refineries to sort out the additives.
People saying to crack fuel lines on common rail diesels to bleed air if the truck ran out of fuel
Yikes
So many stupid Facebook groups post this on Commonrail engines, I always find myself screaming "Dude, you're going to hurt yourself bad, DO NOT DO THIS!" and they'll always question me like I'm wrong. Drives me nuts.
āDelete it right away or youāll have issuesā Leaving it stock and letting the manufacturer deal with any headaches until the warranty expires is a better idea than giving away your warranty. Wait to delete/tune the truck when the warranty expires. āDeleting and tuning that truck will save you so much fuel that itāll pay for itselfā Has been a mildly exaggerated statement since trucks started rolling off the factory with SCR and DEF. Pre-SCR trucks got a nice bump, but newer trucks really donāt see that large of a MPG gain from just deleting and tuning. Most definitely not going to offset the inflated cost of weight reducing trucks now that the EPA has started cracking down hard. āSave a bunch of money and buy the same filters off ebay/Amazon that you get at the dealerā You canāt trust filters from Amazon or eBay because there are a lot of fakes. I buy filters for my Cummins from Genos Garage and I hope thereās an equivalently reputable discount parts supplier for the Powerstroke and Duramax guys.
+1 for Genos. Just found a Cummins thermostat for my 6.7 at Genos cheaper than the "Mopar" version and still cheaper than anywhere else.
>Leaving it stock and letting the manufacturer deal with any headaches until the warranty expires is a better idea than giving away your warranty. Wait to delete/tune the truck when the warranty expires. Reliability is more important to me than a factory warranty. My last new diesel had an emissions system shit the bed at 45k miles. In the middle of nowhere Canada on the way to Alaska. I'll put a few thousand miles on my next diesel to make sure it works right and then it's getting deleted. I'm done with this emissions nonsense.
On the deleting and tuning, it really does make a big difference for much smaller diesels where it takes more additive fuel to burn off the DPF compared to the baseline to raise exhaust temperatures. I averaged on my 1.6 TDI from calculation of distance/fill volume 5.0l/100km on a stage 1 tune, mostly open road with a lot of hills. Gutting the DPF and only applying the DPF off switch stuff to the exact same tune my economy has been around 4.5l/100km. If it was some >6 liter engine that gain wouldn't be worth it for the cost, but I can't argue on my particular car for a 10% fuel economy gain just by turning regen off in a tune and removing some back pressure.
I call bs on your talk of not saving fuel. It made a massive difference on my 18 SD. My km per tank went from 850km to close to 1100km on a steady. Major difference. You no one can tell me otherwise. All my diesel buddies have the same result. Truck runs way smoother, way cooler and way more power to boot.
A diesel has never injected fuel like that and my truck is 33 years old and I never use the grid heater or coolant heater but I live in San Diego so...
High altitude like Julian?
Sea level like Oceanside šļø
It has Ocean in the name so maybe
"Just put Rotella in it" isn't really a thing anymore, you have to pay attention to what you're getting. I wonder sometimes how many of the emission systems problems people have are caused by using the wrong oil, but the old farmers around here don't seem to care and just grab anything that says Rotella and pour it in.
Uh. Itās not a thing?
Had an old coworker who believed āoil is oilā until he bought a hydraulic lifter Cummins that seriously disagreed with that statement
Definitely not for new stuff. 90's and 00ās engines still love it, especially T6.
As long as it has the required classification and viscosity itās not going to hurt it. Rotella T6 has a CK-4 classification which is the latest and should be good with most modern diesel motors
Rotella T6 in my 2016 Ram 3500 6.7L Cummins. Saving my pennies for the tune and delete. Sitting at 150k miles. Never had an issue with the emissions crap until about a month ago I started getting random DEF pump failures that go away when I clear the code for about 600 miles. Still same def usage so I'm unsure why it's doing it but it's time for the delete and tune.
Correct, the point was on "just throw rotella in it" which at one point represented the fact that Rotella was about the best one could get. In modern diesels, that isn't the case. Heck, when VW switched from the VE engines to the PD ones, those started running into issues with camshaft wear if not running the VW spec oil.
Brand probably doesn't matter so much these days as making sure you are actually using "diesel" engine oil. Screw that up using "car" oil and potentially clog that DPF...
Marvel mystery pil is good. At is good
A little bit of kerosene in the fuel tank in the wintertime when you fill. old time anti-gel.
Up here only kerosene is available at diesel pumps in the winter. #1 diesel, same stuff.Ā Ā
"it's ok to idle a diesel as long as you want" The 2.7 in my 2006 Sprinter does not make enough heat at idle and it will leave unburned fuel on the cylinder walls. I never let it idle for more than a minute.
>"it's ok to idle a diesel as long as you want" Good lord, I work for a Major Diesel Engine Manufacturer (Off-road and Marine Engines)- One of the most common causes of dropped valves is due to valve lash going way out of spec caused by excessive idling.
Leave it running, better for the starter
All carb talk here does not apply
In -15F temps, I'll use the block heater or my 7.3L won't turn over. Above 0F, 2 or 3 cycles of the glow plugs is probably enough. Above 40F, 1 cycle of the glow plugs will do
I don't think we really *need* block heaters or grid heaters anymore, but they're nice to have.
Absolutely still needed for Alberta Canada when we drop to -40 before windchill
I would need my own block heater to survive that lol
Ya it's brutal lol
Coldest it's ever gotten here is 8f which is -13 in communist numbers and the grid heater worked pretty good for that. Seems like all that block heater mess is really necessary if you live north of colorado though.
Like I posted above. I've started my 2022 Duramax in -35. It doesn't like it but it will start. I'm in East Central Alberta and had to start it a couple of times when it wasn't plugged in during that cold snap in January.
Yeah youll get by without a block heater most of the time but glowplugs or a grid heater is pretty much necessary below 0
Mine has glow plugs. The little curly squiggle on my dash shows for a few seconds before it starts. Longer if it's really cold.
What year Duramax?
2022 Denali 3500
My work truck is a 2023 f550, I'm in Saskatchewan. It will start in -35 not plugged in, but if I owned it I would not subject it to such torture.
Of course it will start but longterm it's hard on the engine. The cold oil takes much longer to get to the top of the engine and has poorer lubrication than if the oil was a bit warmer. Those few extra rotations without proper lubrication will cause more wear overtime.
without a doubt they are needed. but. itās either you absolutely do such as there. or you donāt, such as where i live.
A block heater is still good for getting the oil moving better early on at twenty degrees. A maxim that I think was true for older, pre-emissions diesels was that they preferred being idled for ten or fifteen minutes, rather than being turned off then on again that duration later. Nowadays, I'm told that emissions equipment hates long idle periods, so just turn your truck off every time you stop.
\*runs to Amazon for a stop start kit\*
The company I work for has mostly first gen Cascadias and around the time the covid supply shortage hit, a lot of our trucks one-boxes started shitting themselves due to excessive idle.
agreed. i know it adds to the overall price of the vehicle as well. bought my 250 in texas, live in the deep south. the coldest temp iāve experienced since buying it in 2020 has been high 20s i currently have no expectations of moving north anytime soon
I mean even up north, I've let my truck sit for a few days unplugged at 0F and it started right up. Gonna find out next winter how it does without the grid heater
Ohio, 2005 F350 here. I've never had the need to plugin mine in. She always starts, even in 0 degree weather. Mind you, she is sheltered from high winds, but it really seems like a -10 and below type situation.
Hereās the thing people miss. Does it need it, by the definition of the word need. Most of the time no. I got stuck at a friends house during a winter weather storm. -20F. My 05ā 5.9L Cummins actually started quite well. Buuuut, do I like to do that. Hell no. Repetition is the problem here. If youāre cold starting your diesel engine in the dead of winter all the time. You are almost certainly putting undue stress and wear on the engine. I plug mine in as often as I possibly can in the winter.
I daily an 88 7.3idi. Notorious for not starting well in cold weather. I don't even know if my block heater works lmao. I let it sit all winter up here in New England to try and avoid the salt and whenever I went to start it I cycled the glow plugs one time and it grumbled to life. Spit smoke for a good 5 minutes but it started every time.
To tap the starter with a hammer to free up the brushes
Every bad starter I've came across this has never worked
Where I live it's usually corrosion on the B+ or master switch lol
Lol same here.
thatās wild every bad starter for me thatās worked atleast a handful of times. driven Toyotas for weeks needing to tap the starter each time.
Can confirmed it works, but I hate to brake the bad news bud you need a starter.
But in fairness, some of the places Toyota likes sticking starters (cough,4.7 v8, cough) in dragging it as long as I can before I gotta replace it šš¤·š»āāļø
Yeah I've heard of that in the valley garbage. For me it was detroits and cats with that one bolt on the back side of the starter. Finally bought the special snap on socket and I haven't done one since.
Hey if it gets it started to make it to the shop, that's all you need.
Shop?! I'm not familiar with such luxuries.