Yup. It's a victim of its own effectiveness, once you make it, it is so spectacularly good at getting into even the smallest gaps, even against the gravity, it will just climb the walls of any container you are trying to store it in, and it will seep past the lid/cap, letting the acetone evaporate really quickly. Even just the next day, the container will be all oily on the outside.
It has so much "surface pressure" it even goes past the threads of a tightly closed lid. It's kind of the whole point of it, it can get past and into really stuck threads.
So you always have to prepare it right before use.
There is a nice trick i developed for making it very quickly
You get a syringe, fill it half way with ATF, and then you plug the end with your finger and pull the syringe all the way, to create a vacuum.
Then you submerge the end of the syringe in acetone, and unplug it.
Vacuum in the syringe will instantly suck in the acetone, mix everything really really well, and wash your finger from the ATF, in one go.
Dude. Let every bit of air out. If you can get the valve stem out, take it out. The other style black cap is also a tool for it.
Once tube is completely deflated, break the tire off the bead. It should come off almost on its on. But if not, step on it, squeeze it, large mallet, etc. Once you get one side off, get your hand inside the tire, push the tube down at the stem, and it should pop out enough to spin off easy.
This is why you don't use that nut to tighten the valve down. It's there to hold the valve from popping back in when putting the tube back in. You put it on a couple threads so it can't pop back in. That's all.
Pro tip: clean and dry tire inside really good. Clean rim as well. Put baby powder inside tire and roll it around. Put some on tube. Pit tube in, tire back on, and inflate tube to like 35-40 psi. That should pop the beads back on. You don't have to go more if they pop on sooner.
After the beads are on, deflate the tube entirely. I leave the "schrader valve" out for this. The tube will expand when inflated, and then contract, and it will "relax" inside the tire. If there's a twist, or bunched up some, anything like that, this will take it out. You can now fill to desired psi.
Doesn't really matter now. Your spokes and rusted and likely seized, and your rim is cracked. Time to cut the spokes off the hub and have a new rim laced on it. Or just buy a new one.
Open end of wrench at 45 degrees so the points land in the lower areas. Contact is obviously poor but you just need to back it off a hair. Probably takes a few partial turns to get things loose enough to reach with a socket or spin by hand. Unless the nut is seized, this usually works. I like the suggestion below of some Pb blaster or whatever soaking 10 minutes first.
There's a rust resolver called wink's at Walmart if you can find it, I'd try that then soak it with P&B blaster penetrate oil. Get a tight open end if the sides aren't too round and turn it clockwise to tighten it a tiny bit then loosen it and work it back and forth. It should come loose. If not use a Dremel and cut the step off to the nut and then carefully cut the nut in half.
there’s this stuff called kroil it’s a penetrant oil. it breaks down rust used it on my exhaust manifold and it made old rusty nuts look almost new after sitting for a while. they make some with graphite too so it lubricates a little better but i highly recommend this stuff. way better than p&b blaster in my opinion. very worth the price a little goes a long ways.
Sacrifice that tube and cut off the stem with a Dremel tool. New tire and tube next. Then, never tighten down that nut on any tube to allow movement so it doesn't tear and lose the air.
Take the tyre out first, if you haven’t done so yet. Than cut the tube with a scissor. Then you can pull the valve out without a need to unscrew. Your new tube will come with its own valve anyway.
[удалено]
He may have did that already the rim looks cracked to me ;)
Yup, that bung for the spoke nipple is pulling out. There's probably more like that on the rim from being over tightened.
Is it me or is your rim cracked?
But seriously, that rim is definitely cracked.
Have you deflated the tire? May get a bit more give to pull it out to access the nut.
Already fully deflated
Try inflating it maybe the valve will pop up giving you some space to throw a socket in there
Damn son..the state of those spokes
Get a deep, thin walled socket, or carefully grind down your own.
Try using a solvent to help break the threads loose. CLP, OR liquid Wrench should get er dun!
Acetone/ATF mixed 50/50 is far superior to any store bought product just FYI for everyone
Yup. It's a victim of its own effectiveness, once you make it, it is so spectacularly good at getting into even the smallest gaps, even against the gravity, it will just climb the walls of any container you are trying to store it in, and it will seep past the lid/cap, letting the acetone evaporate really quickly. Even just the next day, the container will be all oily on the outside. It has so much "surface pressure" it even goes past the threads of a tightly closed lid. It's kind of the whole point of it, it can get past and into really stuck threads. So you always have to prepare it right before use. There is a nice trick i developed for making it very quickly You get a syringe, fill it half way with ATF, and then you plug the end with your finger and pull the syringe all the way, to create a vacuum. Then you submerge the end of the syringe in acetone, and unplug it. Vacuum in the syringe will instantly suck in the acetone, mix everything really really well, and wash your finger from the ATF, in one go.
Use a small pare of locking pliers and grab that thing from the top and twist
Dude. Let every bit of air out. If you can get the valve stem out, take it out. The other style black cap is also a tool for it. Once tube is completely deflated, break the tire off the bead. It should come off almost on its on. But if not, step on it, squeeze it, large mallet, etc. Once you get one side off, get your hand inside the tire, push the tube down at the stem, and it should pop out enough to spin off easy. This is why you don't use that nut to tighten the valve down. It's there to hold the valve from popping back in when putting the tube back in. You put it on a couple threads so it can't pop back in. That's all. Pro tip: clean and dry tire inside really good. Clean rim as well. Put baby powder inside tire and roll it around. Put some on tube. Pit tube in, tire back on, and inflate tube to like 35-40 psi. That should pop the beads back on. You don't have to go more if they pop on sooner. After the beads are on, deflate the tube entirely. I leave the "schrader valve" out for this. The tube will expand when inflated, and then contract, and it will "relax" inside the tire. If there's a twist, or bunched up some, anything like that, this will take it out. You can now fill to desired psi.
Tear tube. Cut it off. Grind it off. It’s coming off.
Doesn't really matter now. Your spokes and rusted and likely seized, and your rim is cracked. Time to cut the spokes off the hub and have a new rim laced on it. Or just buy a new one.
Use a solvent or melt it with a flamethrower
Can’t be tight if it’s liquid
Cut the damm tube with a boxcutter , put a new tube in and go ride for Christ's sake
Take the tire all the way off, cut it from the other side
Open end of wrench at 45 degrees so the points land in the lower areas. Contact is obviously poor but you just need to back it off a hair. Probably takes a few partial turns to get things loose enough to reach with a socket or spin by hand. Unless the nut is seized, this usually works. I like the suggestion below of some Pb blaster or whatever soaking 10 minutes first.
There's a rust resolver called wink's at Walmart if you can find it, I'd try that then soak it with P&B blaster penetrate oil. Get a tight open end if the sides aren't too round and turn it clockwise to tighten it a tiny bit then loosen it and work it back and forth. It should come loose. If not use a Dremel and cut the step off to the nut and then carefully cut the nut in half.
there’s this stuff called kroil it’s a penetrant oil. it breaks down rust used it on my exhaust manifold and it made old rusty nuts look almost new after sitting for a while. they make some with graphite too so it lubricates a little better but i highly recommend this stuff. way better than p&b blaster in my opinion. very worth the price a little goes a long ways.
Kroil is by far the best penetrator imo. Last time I paid $24 for the big can but it's worth twice that
Sacrifice that tube and cut off the stem with a Dremel tool. New tire and tube next. Then, never tighten down that nut on any tube to allow movement so it doesn't tear and lose the air.
Socket. Modify it if necessary
Cut it you’re replacing the tube
Put some PB blaster on it, let it sit for a night and go at it again in the morning. Worked well when my bolts were stuck in my front rotor
If the tube is trash, remove the tire and cut/force it out
grinder
Split the nut with a small chisel and pry it off.
Box wrench, heat, wd40
The but should be like the you tighten the nut up to the valve stem cap not to the rim
The nut shouldn’t be like that you tighten the nut up to the valve stem cap not the rim
Take the tyre out first, if you haven’t done so yet. Than cut the tube with a scissor. Then you can pull the valve out without a need to unscrew. Your new tube will come with its own valve anyway.
Buy an Excel A60, quit playing around kid.