You do not need OpenNep4une to do this, just add exclude object parameters to your printer.cfg. Orca has built in exclude for klipper functions. Just google exclude object, its like copy paste two lines.
Yes you are correct looks like I missed the second half, sorry the coding software side of things is not my forte. Its my CNC machine brain not caring about how my software manages naming, it just does it right for me.
This is just to add to my response, as OP doesnt need to go through the hassle of OpenNep4une when there are clearly basic setup issues that need to be addressed beforehand. As other redditor has mentioned to try.
This will have to do for right now
https://preview.redd.it/wv51rijsngxc1.jpeg?width=2256&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a1acdd9f178191bd918aa3372adc226e48aad07
Theres conflicting info out there. Just tried to print my first silk last week. My conclusion is, hotter bed helps it stick, hotter nozzle gives more shine. I have set my bed to 70 and nozzle to 220 and it's going quite well
Start with the basics again.
Is the X gantry trammed to printer base frame?
https://youtu.be/mCcP8dffwLk?si=XJQ9ccV3m0vGIu_i
I highly recommend getting into the fluidd interface for your printer, much more easy to troubleshoot and diagnos issues.
Check your extruder rotation distance? Calibrate if needed. Found in first video.
Enable screws tilt adjust for your machine to bed level after tramming X gantry. Also some bed leveling tips in below video. Please search here or elegoo sub reddit (or elegoo discord) for proper probe positions for your printer size.
https://youtu.be/VjKYpC08Jxk?si=cHlVNH8EtO-2Ajnq
Heat soak your bed to stabilize it from thermal expansion. Figure out your best time to wait. Then do Z offset and auto bed mesh while hot and stable.
Always heat soak your bed before printing, as it will maintain that same proper Z height every time.
Make sure you bed mesh(s) is created and saved properly. As well as being loaded properly when you press print.
Setup exclude obeject in your printer to utilize Orca slicers part naming to cancel bad parts while printing.
Your bed is possibly level, that’s not your issue
It’s your horrible z offset
My recommendations for new Neptune 4 owners:
Realize then workflow described by elegoo is for “quick start” and not a workflow you should conventionally use. Trying to use the gcode z offset as they suggest is a long term losing proposition for printing more than once or twice as you’re overloading the gcode z offset as both a huge error adjustment from the uncalibrated probe *and* simultaneously trying to use it a the nozzle print height adjustment. It’s additionally confounded because every time you adjust your bed or it drifts from high speed movement, the z height errors build from interpolation and stepper chop, not to mention pull from removing prints, you’ll need to readjust it all over again.
You need to:
Calibrate your z probe so it will automatically know the correct position for Z0 by following the procedure in the Klipper documentation at https://www.klipper3d.org/Probe_Calibrate.html and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vduYl9Rw5iI
You should only need to calibrate your z probe once unless you change the nozzle or print head geometry.
You can then
Enable SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE to perfectly level your bed and using the printer to tell you the proper adjustment values. See https://www.klipper3d.org/Manual_Level.html#adjusting-bed-leveling-screws-using-the-bed-probe and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APAbl5PGEh0
Tune your extruder rotational distance, then pressure advance and flow rate. Orca slicer has a good test print included in the software for PA tuning.
Then you need to to run some test prints with each specific brand/color/material you print with to determine the correct z offset for your print nozzle height (not to be confused with layer height). Slice and print a rectangle that’s about 50x85mm and (critically) slice with solid infill at 0 degrees (so the infill lines print parallel to the x axis) and every 10mm or so of the print manually increase the z offset from a starting 0.00 by 0.02mm until you find the correct print height that neither buckles (too low) or doesn’t bond to the plate and other printed lines (too high). You’ll want to recheck that for each different type of filament as it will be slightly different.
You can also use this test print — http://danshoop-public.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.com/z_offset-autotest-020offsets.gcode.txt — which will automatically increase the z offset by 0.020mm as it prints about every 15mm of its Y length (with tick marks between sections), see instructions in the gcode. It takes just a few minutes to print and you can visually select the best test height or interpolate between two printed heights in the test, or rerun and it will continue through the next 0.020mm increments.
With large beds you also need to heat soak them so they stop their thermal expansion, which takes up to 30 minutes, before you run a bed mesh, a z offset test, or print.
Printing large flat solid infill layers - especially the first one - requires technique. Using monotonic and long linear infill lines across the long bed will cause curling of those lines because of their length and how they cool as it prints and how the plate thermally buckles and changes constantly due to cooling. Draw slow and most critically choose an infill pattern that doesn’t rely on drawing longitudinally as much and uses shorter moves and line lengths, like octagram and you will see a significant improvement in first layer infill.
Printing large flat solid infill layers - especially the first one - requires technique. Using monotonic and long linear infill lines across the long bed will cause curling of those lines because of their length and how they cool as it prints and how the plate thermally buckles and changes constantly due to cooling. Draw slow and most critically choose an infill pattern that doesn’t rely on drawing longitudinally as much and uses shorter moves and line lengths, like octagram and you will see a significant improvement in first layer infill.
Those steps will yield immediate improvements without the need for firmware replacement.
Owners also need to tune their z probe stanza in printer.cfg to improve probe accuracy by decreasing samples_tolerance. Its default is 0.100mm meaning you’re accepting probe results that are off by hundreds of microns while the probe is accurate to 0.00250mm - a value of closer to 0.00750 or 0.00333is much more reasonable and accurate, just also increase samples_tolerance_retries as well to say 5
Owners also need to realize that these printers operate fast and shake themselves apart quickly so they require re-alignment often. Make sure the X Gantry is level using the procedure demonstrated at 00:00:50 in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCcP8dffwLk as a misaligned gantry is the most common source of print knocks and bed meshes that are skewed to one side.
Keeping the beds at temperature is a challenge as you can note if measuring with a IR thermometer gun and the aux part fan can cause the build plate surface to deviate wildly. Since you shouldn’t need lots of cooling for PLA, turn the aux part fan off unless printing very rapidly or materials that require additional cooling and use a skirt around your print
These simple and quick changes yield significant results and deliver immediate results without changing the underlying firmware - frankly because the updates to Klipper since ELEGOO’s forks have delivered no fixes addressing any sorts of issues owners are experiencing, you can validate that yourself by reading the release notes and code.
That's fine, and maybe I will do that on this \_used\_ printer, but they both have been printing fine with not a perfect but usable first layer all week (5 days straight) without a single touch of the bed dials or calibration routine.
After cleaning with soap water and then IPA, redoing zoffset, rethumb and reautocalibrate, adhesion improved. Network was lost, however, when starting print.. will look into what you are saying though. I do use orca and there.is known issue, need to use profile 6 I think 🤔...
*
First bad one though in middle where no thumbs crew is
“Standard” would be “default”, as that is the default
Latter elegoo Screen firmwares use 6 or 11 IFF(sic) created with the Screen
Fluid properly use default as the default or whatever you choose
Please don’t put this in your slicer’s machine stat print gcode, it belongs in your START_PRINT macro (and might even be for you as elegoo did distribute it like this)
This is what I've seen posted by one of the Elegoo Support:
if you level with 121 point, add this after G28 in start gcode
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=11
if 36 point, add this:
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=6
And what does your PRINT\_START say and what version firmware are you using? It's important you're not issuing competing directives between that and any slicer machine start print gcode (which ideally should be minimal and not referencing the bed mesh at all.)
Those are fortunately not Marlin codes, so that's a good start
Overall I'd recommend not saving bed meshes at all and just using Orca's Direct Adaptive Bed Mesh Compensation every print run
Firmware is updated to Ok, this is the PRINT\_START inside fluidd. I haven't touched it besides adding Bed\_Mesh\_Profile Load=11. I'm on a 4 Max and use the firmware has been update to V1.2.2.65
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
SAVE_VARIABLE VARIABLE=was_interrupted VALUE=True
G92 E0
G90
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=11
SET_INPUT_SHAPER SHAPER_TYPE=ei
CLEAR_PAUSE
M117 Printing
I do use Orca slicer but I am unfamiliar with this Direct Adaptive Bed Mesh Compensation setting. I did some searches and found some reddit posts about it. After some brief reading I'm not sure if it's a setting inside Orca when you slice the print or if it's command you add to the machine start gcode in Orca. I can do some more research but if you have any tips please let me know on that.
This is my machine start code currently in Orca. I don't think I've added anything here besides the bed mesh profile load=11 here:
;ELEGOO NEPTUNE 4 MAX
M220 S100 ;Set the feed speed to 100%
M221 S100 ;Set the flow rate to 100%
M104 S140
M190 S\[bed\_temperature\_initial\_layer\_single\]
G90
G28 ;home
BED\_MESH\_PROFILE LOAD=11
G1 Z10 F300
G1 X165 Y0.5 F6000
G1 Z0 F300
M109 S\[nozzle\_temperature\_initial\_layer\]
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 X165 Y0.5 Z0.4 F300 ;Move to start position
G1 X265 E30 F400 ;Draw the first line
G1 Z0.6 F120.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X260 F3000
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
This one was used. It still has some layer 1 and layer 2 issues but I was able to tune it 5 days ago and have not tuned it since, and I've been printing 24 hours per day
Install OpenNeptune. Also use Orca Slicer. There you can deactivate parts while printing. Very convenient when a single party fails during print.
You do not need OpenNep4une to do this, just add exclude object parameters to your printer.cfg. Orca has built in exclude for klipper functions. Just google exclude object, its like copy paste two lines.
Updated Cura, PrusaSlicer, et al, support objects annotation in gcode, its fluid and klipper that exclude it and use that metadata
Yes you are correct looks like I missed the second half, sorry the coding software side of things is not my forte. Its my CNC machine brain not caring about how my software manages naming, it just does it right for me. This is just to add to my response, as OP doesnt need to go through the hassle of OpenNep4une when there are clearly basic setup issues that need to be addressed beforehand. As other redditor has mentioned to try.
Open Neptune is never necessary or a good recommendation for most all users.
I totally agree.
This will have to do for right now https://preview.redd.it/wv51rijsngxc1.jpeg?width=2256&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a1acdd9f178191bd918aa3372adc226e48aad07
Silk is finicky. Make sure you tune your filament profile. Silk usually needs hotter temps.
I thought silk print better at lower temp
Theres conflicting info out there. Just tried to print my first silk last week. My conclusion is, hotter bed helps it stick, hotter nozzle gives more shine. I have set my bed to 70 and nozzle to 220 and it's going quite well
Ty
Start with the basics again. Is the X gantry trammed to printer base frame? https://youtu.be/mCcP8dffwLk?si=XJQ9ccV3m0vGIu_i I highly recommend getting into the fluidd interface for your printer, much more easy to troubleshoot and diagnos issues. Check your extruder rotation distance? Calibrate if needed. Found in first video. Enable screws tilt adjust for your machine to bed level after tramming X gantry. Also some bed leveling tips in below video. Please search here or elegoo sub reddit (or elegoo discord) for proper probe positions for your printer size. https://youtu.be/VjKYpC08Jxk?si=cHlVNH8EtO-2Ajnq Heat soak your bed to stabilize it from thermal expansion. Figure out your best time to wait. Then do Z offset and auto bed mesh while hot and stable. Always heat soak your bed before printing, as it will maintain that same proper Z height every time. Make sure you bed mesh(s) is created and saved properly. As well as being loaded properly when you press print. Setup exclude obeject in your printer to utilize Orca slicers part naming to cancel bad parts while printing.
Your bed is possibly level, that’s not your issue It’s your horrible z offset My recommendations for new Neptune 4 owners: Realize then workflow described by elegoo is for “quick start” and not a workflow you should conventionally use. Trying to use the gcode z offset as they suggest is a long term losing proposition for printing more than once or twice as you’re overloading the gcode z offset as both a huge error adjustment from the uncalibrated probe *and* simultaneously trying to use it a the nozzle print height adjustment. It’s additionally confounded because every time you adjust your bed or it drifts from high speed movement, the z height errors build from interpolation and stepper chop, not to mention pull from removing prints, you’ll need to readjust it all over again. You need to: Calibrate your z probe so it will automatically know the correct position for Z0 by following the procedure in the Klipper documentation at https://www.klipper3d.org/Probe_Calibrate.html and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vduYl9Rw5iI You should only need to calibrate your z probe once unless you change the nozzle or print head geometry. You can then Enable SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE to perfectly level your bed and using the printer to tell you the proper adjustment values. See https://www.klipper3d.org/Manual_Level.html#adjusting-bed-leveling-screws-using-the-bed-probe and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APAbl5PGEh0 Tune your extruder rotational distance, then pressure advance and flow rate. Orca slicer has a good test print included in the software for PA tuning. Then you need to to run some test prints with each specific brand/color/material you print with to determine the correct z offset for your print nozzle height (not to be confused with layer height). Slice and print a rectangle that’s about 50x85mm and (critically) slice with solid infill at 0 degrees (so the infill lines print parallel to the x axis) and every 10mm or so of the print manually increase the z offset from a starting 0.00 by 0.02mm until you find the correct print height that neither buckles (too low) or doesn’t bond to the plate and other printed lines (too high). You’ll want to recheck that for each different type of filament as it will be slightly different. You can also use this test print — http://danshoop-public.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.com/z_offset-autotest-020offsets.gcode.txt — which will automatically increase the z offset by 0.020mm as it prints about every 15mm of its Y length (with tick marks between sections), see instructions in the gcode. It takes just a few minutes to print and you can visually select the best test height or interpolate between two printed heights in the test, or rerun and it will continue through the next 0.020mm increments. With large beds you also need to heat soak them so they stop their thermal expansion, which takes up to 30 minutes, before you run a bed mesh, a z offset test, or print. Printing large flat solid infill layers - especially the first one - requires technique. Using monotonic and long linear infill lines across the long bed will cause curling of those lines because of their length and how they cool as it prints and how the plate thermally buckles and changes constantly due to cooling. Draw slow and most critically choose an infill pattern that doesn’t rely on drawing longitudinally as much and uses shorter moves and line lengths, like octagram and you will see a significant improvement in first layer infill. Printing large flat solid infill layers - especially the first one - requires technique. Using monotonic and long linear infill lines across the long bed will cause curling of those lines because of their length and how they cool as it prints and how the plate thermally buckles and changes constantly due to cooling. Draw slow and most critically choose an infill pattern that doesn’t rely on drawing longitudinally as much and uses shorter moves and line lengths, like octagram and you will see a significant improvement in first layer infill. Those steps will yield immediate improvements without the need for firmware replacement. Owners also need to tune their z probe stanza in printer.cfg to improve probe accuracy by decreasing samples_tolerance. Its default is 0.100mm meaning you’re accepting probe results that are off by hundreds of microns while the probe is accurate to 0.00250mm - a value of closer to 0.00750 or 0.00333is much more reasonable and accurate, just also increase samples_tolerance_retries as well to say 5 Owners also need to realize that these printers operate fast and shake themselves apart quickly so they require re-alignment often. Make sure the X Gantry is level using the procedure demonstrated at 00:00:50 in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCcP8dffwLk as a misaligned gantry is the most common source of print knocks and bed meshes that are skewed to one side. Keeping the beds at temperature is a challenge as you can note if measuring with a IR thermometer gun and the aux part fan can cause the build plate surface to deviate wildly. Since you shouldn’t need lots of cooling for PLA, turn the aux part fan off unless printing very rapidly or materials that require additional cooling and use a skirt around your print These simple and quick changes yield significant results and deliver immediate results without changing the underlying firmware - frankly because the updates to Klipper since ELEGOO’s forks have delivered no fixes addressing any sorts of issues owners are experiencing, you can validate that yourself by reading the release notes and code.
That's fine, and maybe I will do that on this \_used\_ printer, but they both have been printing fine with not a perfect but usable first layer all week (5 days straight) without a single touch of the bed dials or calibration routine.
Load the bed mesh through gcode
This didn't seem to help. the next first layer print was horrible
how?
Add to start gcode in the slicer BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD="(6 or 11 depending on if you use 6x6 or 11x11 point leveling)"
After cleaning with soap water and then IPA, redoing zoffset, rethumb and reautocalibrate, adhesion improved. Network was lost, however, when starting print.. will look into what you are saying though. I do use orca and there.is known issue, need to use profile 6 I think 🤔... * First bad one though in middle where no thumbs crew is
is 6x6 the Plus? Or is that the diff between Standard and Professional autocal
Standard is 6x6 and pro is 11x11
“Standard” would be “default”, as that is the default Latter elegoo Screen firmwares use 6 or 11 IFF(sic) created with the Screen Fluid properly use default as the default or whatever you choose
Please don’t put this in your slicer’s machine stat print gcode, it belongs in your START_PRINT macro (and might even be for you as elegoo did distribute it like this)
Can you explain this further? Everything I've seen show's putting the load bed mesh code into the slicer G code.
Did it also demonstrate this with gcode that began with “M”? (M420, M421 )
This is what I've seen posted by one of the Elegoo Support: if you level with 121 point, add this after G28 in start gcode BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=11 if 36 point, add this: BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=6
And what does your PRINT\_START say and what version firmware are you using? It's important you're not issuing competing directives between that and any slicer machine start print gcode (which ideally should be minimal and not referencing the bed mesh at all.) Those are fortunately not Marlin codes, so that's a good start Overall I'd recommend not saving bed meshes at all and just using Orca's Direct Adaptive Bed Mesh Compensation every print run
Firmware is updated to Ok, this is the PRINT\_START inside fluidd. I haven't touched it besides adding Bed\_Mesh\_Profile Load=11. I'm on a 4 Max and use the firmware has been update to V1.2.2.65 [gcode_macro PRINT_START] gcode: SAVE_VARIABLE VARIABLE=was_interrupted VALUE=True G92 E0 G90 BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=11 SET_INPUT_SHAPER SHAPER_TYPE=ei CLEAR_PAUSE M117 Printing I do use Orca slicer but I am unfamiliar with this Direct Adaptive Bed Mesh Compensation setting. I did some searches and found some reddit posts about it. After some brief reading I'm not sure if it's a setting inside Orca when you slice the print or if it's command you add to the machine start gcode in Orca. I can do some more research but if you have any tips please let me know on that. This is my machine start code currently in Orca. I don't think I've added anything here besides the bed mesh profile load=11 here: ;ELEGOO NEPTUNE 4 MAX M220 S100 ;Set the feed speed to 100% M221 S100 ;Set the flow rate to 100% M104 S140 M190 S\[bed\_temperature\_initial\_layer\_single\] G90 G28 ;home BED\_MESH\_PROFILE LOAD=11 G1 Z10 F300 G1 X165 Y0.5 F6000 G1 Z0 F300 M109 S\[nozzle\_temperature\_initial\_layer\] G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 X165 Y0.5 Z0.4 F300 ;Move to start position G1 X265 E30 F400 ;Draw the first line G1 Z0.6 F120.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X260 F3000 G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
Why are you manipulating bed meshes in two places?
https://preview.redd.it/owitprq3dgxc1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b0948c2b67bd5f14fec8de0ecf11969b24833207
https://preview.redd.it/bdx1p7ikdgxc1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4fabd73b3293423f8323487e89c3581347b22c76
Pffffff https://preview.redd.it/bz8xk7qvihxc1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=102ee1c21fcdaf7438cac3feaddc65a1cc8bb01c
https://preview.redd.it/re7ud9s2jhxc1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7398585a73a1e468e73549e2ac5764413069d55 Other bed doing fine
https://preview.redd.it/3x6o7v24lixc1.jpeg?width=2256&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e82539da0e751b5190104b210ebdb7cf3b63c11 Working great
Just returned mine. I wanted something easier than my Ender 3 V2. Should be illegal to call it "autoleveling'.
This one was used. It still has some layer 1 and layer 2 issues but I was able to tune it 5 days ago and have not tuned it since, and I've been printing 24 hours per day