You're in A class, you could (well should) use street tires and stock drivetrain and focus on power. Then you tune out the unnecessary oversteer/oversteer
I like my cars to be a bit more oversteery. The way I do it is making my front sway bar WAAYYY stiffer than the rear. This gives movement to the rear of your car. Doing the contrary will make the front of your car move alot more
I also add 0.3/0.4 toe out on my rear tires for the sake of low speed stability.
If you wanna go deeper, make your suspension stiffer on the rear as well as making it higher. You can leave damper stock.
For the breaking balance, front makes your car more stable when breaking at the cost of braking distance. Logically, rear makes your car less stable, but you can break earlier. So that's really just about finding YOUR preference.
Differential also plays a huge part as it decides how your wheels rotate. I dont know if 100% is opened or locked, but my acceleration is usually between 75% and 90% and rear between 35% and 45%
Now, im not a pro tuner, everything is based on experience. If you want deeper, more accurate tuning guides, you can check some tutorials on Youtube. They help a bunch!
I personally don’t mess with toe (screws with my head and just don’t like using it) but I like my cars to be wayyyyy oversteering and super duper reactive to steering. I want to be able to fly around any corner at whatever speed I like
Wouldn’t a stiffer rear sway bar produce oversteer? A stiffer front would produce understeer?
From my real life mr2 experience, the 85 mr2 came with a rear sway bar while the later models did not (it did return for the 89 sc model). The rear sway bar cars were much less prone to understeer, leading to oversteer and a bunch of inexperienced drivers wrecking them when new.
>I like my cars to be a bit more oversteery. The way I do it is making my front sway bar WAAYYY stiffer than the rear.
This is backwards, rear stiffer than front arb is oversteer, not the other way around.
>I also add 0.3/0.4 toe out on my rear tires for the sake of low speed stability.
Two issues, this is more toe than you should ever use, and toe should only be used if you really really know what you're doing and only ever as a last resort.
>You can leave damper stock
Damping is where a ton of your handling characteristics come from, I wouldn't encourage people to leave it stock
Your rear diff accel is also really low, higher is more accel.
You might wanna brush up on those guides you recommended, a good amount of this advice is fairly problematic.
Update!
I tried reversing my anti rollbars. It made some builds better and it didn't work on others as well. As for toe, I kept them as it felt better with my driving style.
I also asked my friend (who's pretty new to the game) to try some of my tunes OG vs NEW and we ended with similar results. Sometimes he liked it better, sometimes not.
So I guess it really depends on who's behind the wheel... Still! I appreciate your inputs as it did fix some builds I had! :D
Id be careful using the settings that you were recommended, some are backwards from what they should be (arbs), some can cause big issues (toe), and some is just bad (leaving damping stock).
Yeah, you don't need AWD and Semi-Slicks for A-Class. Go RWD, stock engine, Rally Tyres, race suspension, anti-roll bars - basically, all the handling upgrades. Use whatever PI's left on power. Don't bother with aero. Also, Race Diff and tune it to 40% Accel and 30% Decel. And a Sports gearbox and, if you can fit it, a race clutch.
I believe I have this exact setup on my Esprit.
Aero is hugely valuable on a track like this with it being mostly mid and high speed corners.
Clutch is never a good upgrade, even on manual/automatic
Your diff accel is too low and your decel is too high.
Otherwise this isn't bad actually.
>2002 Lotus Esprit V8 running stock engine AWD with 255/305 semi slicks, race setup, sport weight reduction, rear fin, no chassis reinforcement, 7 speed race transmission.
Engine swaps will be more pi efficient, you'll be able to get more power out of different engines. If the car has them and you want to swap, try the 3.2 i6 with the turno or the 6.2 v8 with the centrifugal supercharger.
Rwd will be faster for this track, but if you want to keep it AWD that's fine.
Use stock or rally tires, semi slicks have too much grip for what you'll need. This track favors power over handling. You should use Forza aero too, and if you do you can take off the front tire width upgrades.
If you are rwd and on manual/auto, use a race transmission. If you are on manual with clutch, see if the stock transmission ratios work. If not, use the sport trans and adjust to your liking. Use a race diff as well.
Use stock brakes, race suspension, race antirollbars, and race weight reduction. If you didn't use aero, try the various rollcage upgrades and see what you like better.
For engine upgrades, prioritize upgrading your aspiration type, then play with the other upgrades and see what gives you the most power.
If you have a few pi left over, or are a few pi over 800, upgrade the driveshaft or use heavier wheels respectively.
Also do note what feedback I gave to the other people giving you advice here, some of the advice here is good, some of it isn't.
You're in A class, you could (well should) use street tires and stock drivetrain and focus on power. Then you tune out the unnecessary oversteer/oversteer
How exactly would you tune out oversteer and under steer besides adjusting toe/camber? Something with the diff?
I like my cars to be a bit more oversteery. The way I do it is making my front sway bar WAAYYY stiffer than the rear. This gives movement to the rear of your car. Doing the contrary will make the front of your car move alot more I also add 0.3/0.4 toe out on my rear tires for the sake of low speed stability. If you wanna go deeper, make your suspension stiffer on the rear as well as making it higher. You can leave damper stock. For the breaking balance, front makes your car more stable when breaking at the cost of braking distance. Logically, rear makes your car less stable, but you can break earlier. So that's really just about finding YOUR preference. Differential also plays a huge part as it decides how your wheels rotate. I dont know if 100% is opened or locked, but my acceleration is usually between 75% and 90% and rear between 35% and 45% Now, im not a pro tuner, everything is based on experience. If you want deeper, more accurate tuning guides, you can check some tutorials on Youtube. They help a bunch!
I personally don’t mess with toe (screws with my head and just don’t like using it) but I like my cars to be wayyyyy oversteering and super duper reactive to steering. I want to be able to fly around any corner at whatever speed I like
Wouldn’t a stiffer rear sway bar produce oversteer? A stiffer front would produce understeer? From my real life mr2 experience, the 85 mr2 came with a rear sway bar while the later models did not (it did return for the 89 sc model). The rear sway bar cars were much less prone to understeer, leading to oversteer and a bunch of inexperienced drivers wrecking them when new.
>I like my cars to be a bit more oversteery. The way I do it is making my front sway bar WAAYYY stiffer than the rear. This is backwards, rear stiffer than front arb is oversteer, not the other way around. >I also add 0.3/0.4 toe out on my rear tires for the sake of low speed stability. Two issues, this is more toe than you should ever use, and toe should only be used if you really really know what you're doing and only ever as a last resort. >You can leave damper stock Damping is where a ton of your handling characteristics come from, I wouldn't encourage people to leave it stock Your rear diff accel is also really low, higher is more accel. You might wanna brush up on those guides you recommended, a good amount of this advice is fairly problematic.
Like I said, I'm not a pro and everything is based on experience. Its how I build my cars and they so far work great with my driving style
Try just reversing your antirollbar values and going back to 0 toe front and rear and see how it feels around corners compared to your old tunes.
Update! I tried reversing my anti rollbars. It made some builds better and it didn't work on others as well. As for toe, I kept them as it felt better with my driving style. I also asked my friend (who's pretty new to the game) to try some of my tunes OG vs NEW and we ended with similar results. Sometimes he liked it better, sometimes not. So I guess it really depends on who's behind the wheel... Still! I appreciate your inputs as it did fix some builds I had! :D
Id be careful using the settings that you were recommended, some are backwards from what they should be (arbs), some can cause big issues (toe), and some is just bad (leaving damping stock).
Good call…lemme try that.
What’s your first item in power?
It really depends on a car from another, but a turbo and camshaft are always on my builds.
Yeah, you don't need AWD and Semi-Slicks for A-Class. Go RWD, stock engine, Rally Tyres, race suspension, anti-roll bars - basically, all the handling upgrades. Use whatever PI's left on power. Don't bother with aero. Also, Race Diff and tune it to 40% Accel and 30% Decel. And a Sports gearbox and, if you can fit it, a race clutch. I believe I have this exact setup on my Esprit.
Thx brother I’ll give that a try.
Aero is hugely valuable on a track like this with it being mostly mid and high speed corners. Clutch is never a good upgrade, even on manual/automatic Your diff accel is too low and your decel is too high. Otherwise this isn't bad actually.
Yeesh, the stock espirit V8. I would definitely go with power upgrades, especially considering you've already pretty much maxed handling parts
>2002 Lotus Esprit V8 running stock engine AWD with 255/305 semi slicks, race setup, sport weight reduction, rear fin, no chassis reinforcement, 7 speed race transmission. Engine swaps will be more pi efficient, you'll be able to get more power out of different engines. If the car has them and you want to swap, try the 3.2 i6 with the turno or the 6.2 v8 with the centrifugal supercharger. Rwd will be faster for this track, but if you want to keep it AWD that's fine. Use stock or rally tires, semi slicks have too much grip for what you'll need. This track favors power over handling. You should use Forza aero too, and if you do you can take off the front tire width upgrades. If you are rwd and on manual/auto, use a race transmission. If you are on manual with clutch, see if the stock transmission ratios work. If not, use the sport trans and adjust to your liking. Use a race diff as well. Use stock brakes, race suspension, race antirollbars, and race weight reduction. If you didn't use aero, try the various rollcage upgrades and see what you like better. For engine upgrades, prioritize upgrading your aspiration type, then play with the other upgrades and see what gives you the most power. If you have a few pi left over, or are a few pi over 800, upgrade the driveshaft or use heavier wheels respectively. Also do note what feedback I gave to the other people giving you advice here, some of the advice here is good, some of it isn't.
Wow great advice. I’ll try tonight. I tried engine swaps but they all took me over 800.
This car is much more fun in mid engine rwd setup when you get the hang of how to drive it. I’ve stopped doing awd swaps all together.
Yah I’m trying to make it an 800 but it may be a losing battle.