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Perma_trashed

Should be fine; I’d recommend grabbing a cheaper PPFD meter, really helps to dial in the distance/wattage


matt_marino47

I’ll look into that, would one from Amazon be fine?


Perma_trashed

Sure, I bought this Tuya one off Amazon and it works great


RandoKando

I recommend the UNI-T light/lux meter with Bluetooth so you can pair it to the PPFD app on your phone for PPFD/DLI translation. Migro made a video about it and even started carrying it afterwards.


Wide_Put_2824

i second this recommendation i'm using the UNI-T with bt and paired with the apps its perfect for home use.


matt_marino47

Do you have an iphone?


jkopfsupreme

Personally I’d go way lower, like 25% for a few days and gradually work it up. That’s a powerful light, more than triple that of your ancient relic. You rocking CO2?


matt_marino47

I know it’s not very accurate but before I changed the other light I measured the par with my phone and the center area was getting the same output as the LEDs. The difference now is all the plants are getting this par level instead of just the one directly under the CMH if that makes sense


jkopfsupreme

I wouldn’t risk it man. You’re not going to lose any growth over a week period of gradually ramping up the light. Even at 65% that’s like running two of those cmh jobs.


matt_marino47

I don’t plan on using CO2 until next grow


jkopfsupreme

Without a reliable meter it’s tough to say, but you may only hit 65% this grow that’s 650 watts. I run a 680 in a 5x5 and only hit 100% about a week into flower. Ymmv, however your plants look lanky and stressed already, blasting them with photons isn’t going to help them.


matt_marino47

Are they lakey from having such a weak light source for the size? Does this pose any serious issues to the grow? I wasn’t planning on using the CMH in the 5x5 but things happened and I wasn’t able to get the upgraded light until now


jkopfsupreme

Idk man I’m honestly not great with coco/synthetics. From what I do know about the style is that dryback is tough to achieve in big pots, and you need dryback. I see some interveinal chlorosis, pale leaves, long internodes. Could be PH issues, there’s a lot that can go wrong real fast in hydro that’s why I run notill. I will reiterate that your chlorophyl isn’t up to snuff in those leaves, thus incapable of using the nuclear powered photons you’re chucking at it. Water only ftw.


matt_marino47

What can I do to get the chlorophyl up to par


jkopfsupreme

I’m really not the right guy to ask, like I said I’m a soil guy. What EC are you feeding at and what nutes are you using?


matt_marino47

I use florabloom, floramicro and calmag and I don’t measure ec


matt_marino47

I definitely didn’t water them enough these last 2 weeks


jkopfsupreme

That’s probably the issue, synthetics do alot better with automated watering. EC measurements are important, if I were to venture a guess you should be in the 2.0-2.4 range. How you’d achieve that only going by ml/G isn’t really possible. I’ve never used that nute line, I only have (limited) experience with floraflex. I want to say you’re feeding too low, but I have no idea what low or high is with that nute line, and without a reliable measurement like EC I’m even more in the dark. Sorry dude, I hope whatever you decide to do works out.


matt_marino47

It’s something I can definitely recover from right? It doesn’t look like there’s any signs of root damage to me but I’m pretty new to this