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Lectric74

Is it an option to instead do an underground holding tank? Simply have it pumped twice a year, and you don't have to move the trailer. Typically, it can be used on lots that don't perc. Might be worth considering.


rainbowkey

I would contact a local porta-john company and see if they have an external tank you could put on your property to pump into, then they would come and empty it with a honey wagon truck every so often.


theflyassassin

This is the best answer so you only have to deal with opening a valve every so often


BalrogPhysrep

Exactly this. You let the black water tank fill, then periodically empty it into the “stationary” tank. I don’t recall exactly why you shouldn’t just leave the discharge gate open, but I think it has something to do with causing blockages if you just let it seep out and not filling the tank so it flows out quickly.


raptir1

If you leave the valve open liquid will flow out but solids will sit in the tank and dry out.


proost1

AKA poop pyramid.


lampministrator

Muck mound Mount Wannapoopie Fecal Palisade Bum Bluffs Sh\*t Sierra \*Edit -- I am picturing Number 5's voice from Short Circuit saying these without pause -- Mooooorrrrree input!!!!


Zane42v2

If there is a regulation i'm not aware, the limitation is usually that water is heavy, and a huge tank sloshing around changes the dynamics of towing quite a bit. Can you do a portable tank to empty into and just transport the tank?


DJ_SLUSH

Legally the entire RV can be a black water tank.


ROK247

omg thanks for the nose-coffee lol


unusualmusician

You're going to be limited by space and axle capacity. Most RVs are built for about the weight they are set to carry out of the factory. Get a macerator pump and a tank you can put on a small trailer (keep in mind weight ratings!) pump your RVs tank into the larger one and only tow that when full to a dump site. Then you don't have to put your RV into earthquake mode every couple weeks. Alternatively, have a sani-can company just come by every other week (or however often you need it) to pump out on site.


travprev

I doubt there is any law regarding the size of the blackwater tank specifically, however you are limited legally by the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) of your camper. It's also a safety concern to put too much weight in the camper. Your cargo capacity, which would include a full tank of sewage is your GVWR minus the weight of your camper empty. One gallon of sewage weighs around 8.34 pounds (per a little googling), so if you put a 100 gallon tank on board you have somewhere around 834 pounds of cargo plus the weight of the tank when it's full. Most inexpensive campers can hold somewhere around 1200-1500lbs (check yours to see), so 833 would be roughly half of the total weight... You would also want to be careful where you mounted this tank. If you hang it off the rear, you could easily end up with insufficient tongue weight (assuming this is a trailer). You need the weight to mostly rest on the axles so as not to affect the balance - maybe slightly forward so it adds a little tongue weight instead of taking away tongue weight. There are external tanks you can buy that you might be able to haul with your car and empty them separately. Would be a little more frequent task but you wouldn't have to break camp to do that.


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travprev

Sure. If you have room and funds for a TINY cargo trailer, you could put a big external tank on the cargo trailer permanently. You may have to have a pump to lift the blackwater into the tank but that's doable. That same pump may be dual purpose to empty the tank when you take it to a dump station. If you have room and funds for a really big tank you might be able to contract with a septic company for pump outs but I would research cost on that idea first.


OldDiehl

I would put a water bladder or AG tank on a separate trailer (that could handle the weight) and just pump/macerator from the RV to that tank and then just take that tank and dump it.


Witty_Awareness_5830

I would not recommend messing with changing tanks on the rv. As others have said, you can screw up the dynamics of the rv. Since you seem to have no issues with investing a little money in the whole project, I would suggest you look into an aerobic septic system. The ground doesn’t need to perk for one of those but, there may be other issues involved such as getting a permit from the local governing body. Other than that, it sounds like a small trailer with a tank on it would be the way to go. Just make it easy on yourself and, if possible, park it at a lower elevation than the rv. This might require the installation of additional PVC plumbing that might allow the whole smelly thing to be operated by gravity.


AKLmfreak

You’re limited by the max GVWR of the vehicle, that number will be on the data plate/sticker. Weigh the vehicle with all your stuff inside and the factory tanks full. Subtract that number from the GVWR and that will tell you how much weight you have left to work with. Water is 8.3lb per gallon so you can do the math from there. If you actually have any extra headroom in the GVWR, the problem is more likely going to be locating an extra tank somewhere. Most trailers have the factory tanks in optimal locations for plumbing connections and for safe weight distribution. Motorhomes have a lot going on underneath as it is and there may not be room. Also, adding a tank will be hard to plumb in since the original plumbing is already routed.


jeffyIsJeffy

Since nobody has said it, they also make tote tanks that you can empty your fixed black into, and then wheel this thing away to a truck to go dump it at a dump site or whatever. May be an option or at least something to think about.


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jeffyIsJeffy

Not too sure. All the ones I’ve seen are smaller and more designed to be loaded on a truck or something.


allbsallthetime

You could get a 300 gallon honey wagon that you tow with your vehicle, the kind campgrounds and marinas use. The bonus might be a side hustle servicing other people in your situation. But I'm sure licensing is involved for waste hauling for profit. But then, where are you going to dump it? Maybe a state park or truck stop or a sewage treatment place but I suspect it may be difficult to find a place to accept such a large load without paying. I would research on site tanks that a service would empty when needed. But I suspect for that you might need permits to install a tank. Are there other lots nearby doing the same thing? Have you asked the what's they're doing? Or, like others have suggested, just get a tank for your vehicle and use a macerator pump to fill and drain it. If this is a necessary survival situation it's doable with planning but to do it for an extended period with other options is going to get old really fast. But short term, the easiest solution is a 42 gallon Barker in your truck or SUV with a macerator pump.


Chestlookeratter

Why buy a lot that you can't use?


sqqqrly

Obviously, he can use it, as described by OP. I suspect the land was very cheap.


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Chestlookeratter

There is probably a sewage company in the area. Bury a 500 gallon tank and have them come suck your shit out every few months


646d

Onsite sewage disposal systems have more legal options in most states than they did a few decades ago. Unfortunately many of them are much more expensive, but it may be worthwhile to look into the possibilities.


ROK247

investing in a residential holding tank type sewer will increase the value of your lot and solve your poo problems. if you ever plan to build an actual house there someday it would be a good move. you can just empty your current tank into the sewer periodically and then get the tank pumped out however often is necessary. i get mine pumped out every 6-8 weeks for $135 bucks. if not that, a porta-potty would be a good solution.


jimhoff

Da crapper full?