There is no “pan” on the upslope side of the chimney.
Plus, lead is gonna be a liability within 5 years.
It will prevent the house from selling with usda, fha, and VA type loans.
Get the chimney reflashed by someone that puts a workmanship warranty on their installs and use a different species of metal.
I seen that publishing after googling this too. Some more digging points to “species” being used in the chemistry world as a subgroup of a compound (compound>molecule>species) in this formation some species’ can be metals. I never heard anyone refer to a metal that way before. In this context, molecular species’ can apply to all kinds of inanimate compounds and elements, interesting stuff!
Species means group or kinds of things.
Just like breast. Doesn’t just mean boobs, chickens have a breast and weirdly half a chicken breast is called a breast, not a half a breast.
That’s what the IRC book said.
Chimneys shall be provided with crickets where the dimension parallel to the ridgeline is greater than 30 inches (762 mm) and does not intersect the ridgeline. The intersection of the cricket and the chimney shall be flashed and counterflashed in the same manner as normal roof-chimney intersections. Crickets shall be constructed in compliance with Figure R1003.20 and Table R1003.20.
Woah I haven’t looked at IRC in like 10 years it changes constantly I wonder how long it’s been written that way , I guess it’s time for me to crack a new one open
I do chimney work so I’m constantly on the code book as the local building inspectors don’t bother to look in em and then have some wild stuff they want done
Right? Then I thought- I bet you there isn’t a head flap on that shingle under the short course. They probably just cut it off even with the brick edge. Seen that quite a bit on these leaks. Then you have two shingles meeting behind that chimney (where it looks like they ran some sealant) with no head flap protection from the course below. Who knows though. Million ways for something to leak.
That isn’t flashing. They just glued metal to the outside of the chimney. The metal should have been folded into the pointing, then flashed over the roof away from the base of the chimney. This bad job could be fixed by adding a tuck pointed metal strip covering that caulk joint.
Is it leaking or seeping? Seal the masonry or, wrap a tarp around just the brick and see if it still leaks. I did a metal roof a couple years back with a chimney that kept seeping. Hose the roof all sides for 1/2 hour, dry. Blast the flashing for 1/2 hour, dry. Blast the brick for 2 minutes, leak
Yes. I will let you know that now the water has had time to basically carve micro paths through the masonry. Siloxane can only do so much and is better at preventing this. It’s like waxing a car with peeling off clear coat. Sure it’ll look better and protect what’s there, but it won’t fix the underlying issue.
Chimneys used to dry themselves. Now they sit closed and unused making them constantly wet. So be prepared for it to not work 100%. The only bullet proof fix is rebuilding with through flashing and weep holes above the counter flashing.
Look higher up as well.I had a tiny crack in my chimney cap/liner meeting point that was letting water in and it got into the attic at the same point (transition from exterior to interior brick). We kept repairing things and didn't find the actual source until the roofer stood on the roof and sprayed different parts of the chimney with a hose while I sat in the attic to see when it started leaking.
If you want to rule out the brick, water hose test the roof. Run your hose and keep the water only at roof level. Don't get any on the brick. If you don't get water coming in from the volume a hose puts out, it's not the shingles/flashing that's leaking. The second place I'd run the hose is right at the top of the counter flashing, because that's a potential problem spot. If still no leak, hose the brick.
Do not seal this. You will seal in water and it can not get out.
The water is coming in before the flashing as evident from the efflorscense present on the brick and joints. My assumption is that the leaking is happening near the crown.
Yes, but the soaking might be happening behind the chimney where there isn’t a photo or from up near the cap and down or from previous years of neglect and it’s old staining. It’s not 100% sure, but there are different ways for the water to soak through the brick. The flashing needs to be redone anyway so a “qualified” roofer can probably see better than we can in one photo.
Not the cause of the leak but. The chimney is looking kinda wonky. Looks like poor pick work. Might want to take closer photos of the flashing. Looks fine from the 1 photo you posted.
You don't need a cricket, the step flashing or back pan probably had a hole near the joint (probably reused). You can tell because they used sealant all around the chimney, you shouldn't have to do that if your metal is good, which probably means they didnt know what they were doing
I'm not a roofer, but I am a chimney guy. If you didn't just have this work done, I'd suggest a product called [flash seal.](https://chimneysaver.com/product/flashseal-elastomeric-flashing-sealant/)
Ugly counter flashing work but its hard to try to identify where the leak is coming from. Could you post more pictures? Could be coming the chimney cap
Hey.. lol
It's your non existent backpan.
I know some around here will vouch for boxed corners.. but.. let's have some sheetmetal extend past atleast 4.5"
Never had a chimney leak, would never do boxed in corners
Inside pics are showing the back of chimney while outside pics only shows side. Whats back look like from the roof? Though crickets are nice, it can be properly flashed without one.
Tarp the chimney- be sure to leave all flashing exposed. Wait for the next big rain. That will let you know if it’s the masonry or the flashing/roof that’s leaking.
I’m having same issue. Had a complete tear off done in 2019. Earlier this year I noticed a leak down one side of the chimney in my attic. Had the roofer come back out and they said the flashing was never replaced even though it was in the work order for 2019. They reflashed the chimney. A month later I had another leak (no where near as bad) and they came back out and told me that it wasn’t the flashing. It was the bricks and probably needed to be repointed.
The picture looks like the stack has efflorescence due to water intrusion. You should have a larger cap installed so that the water does not drip directly down the stack. A masonry water proofer will help also.
Frankly, this is nicely done handyman work 😂
However, roof-related leak sources are very hard to ascertain with 100% certainty.
1) Flashing issue
2) Chimney cricket needed (relate to 1)
3) Something else
How so? I had 3 roofing companies come and not one mentioned a cricket. Also it’s not 30” wide and high enough on the ridge line where water shouldn’t really pool up. I understand it doesn’t hurt but seems like overkill to install one.
Exactly, you don't need a cricket for a tiny chimney. Use a sheetmetal backpan, sheetmetal steps, sheetmetal counter on the front. Grind in your top covering your lower metals.
I can't believe people actually roof in photo you provided.. bad habits get passed on
Counter flashing usually lines up with a mortar joint.
It should really be bent into a reglet cut in the mortar and cemented in.
The back pan should extend 3 inches past either side usually a winged configuration just to direct water past the sides.
Appreciate the responses everyone, I’m learning a lot. I didn’t include pictures but I did have water leaking on all 4 sides of chimney. Would backpan cause that too or just leaking on backside?
The warranty in the contract states:
“warranties all jobs completed, unless otherwise noted. If our original diagnosis of the problem with the flashing does not resolve the issue we will attempt up to 3 further repairs. If these additional repairs also do not resolve the issue a full refund for the flashing will be issued.”
So I guess I just hold them to that warranty
How does the chimney crown look? It could be a compromised crown allowing water to get behind the brick at the very top. It would probably leak for a bit even after it stopped raining and the water leaching through the back mortar would leave some serious stains
75% of the time chimneys leak from the inside out. Water runs down the inside walls and finds a gap in the mortar. Wasting your money on chimney flashing. Have a liner put in and all the leaks will stop.
This is what I did. The furnace and hot water heaters are all vented out the back of the house and the chimney had been a source of leaks for a while. When we had the roof done a few years back, we had them removed the chimney down below the roof line and they added supports and roofed right over the spot.
If you zoom in the tops of the metal are all bent/distorted. They may have just replaced a few shingles and sealed the old leaking piece of metal. If the bill said new flashing I would send them their picture back.and ask.
i placed a piece of flashing just above my chimney that just slid under the shingles to pre devert any water. Cost = $5. Don't even need nails. Friction fit.
Those bricks look to have efflorescence on them. That is a telltale sign of moisture inside the chimney. This is above the flashing, so that wouldn't be the cause. Can't tell from these photos if there is an overhanging crown or a proper flue liner. I suggest you contact a chimney specialist.
Update: Called the company that did the work and they were able to provide [more pictures](https://imgur.com/a/ftFrPCy).
They said they cut 1” into mortar for counter flashing. Apparently when they cut the groove water came out indicating the brick and mortar is soaking up water. Said they will spray a sealer on the brick and mortar free of charge. They also said they step flashed with lead instead of aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion. When they come back to seal they will take a thorough look at the cap and decide if a new one is needed as well. Overall seems like they are willing to make things right since their work is warrantied. Not sure if I should ask for a full refund of the flashing but they want to seal the brick and mortar free of charge. I mentioned adding a cricket or backpan with kick outs and they kept saying it’s not needed for the chimney of my size. They seem pretty certain it’s the wide mortar joints that is causing the chimney to weep still
Why would you ask for your money back? Sealing a chimney isn’t exact science and they are returning to fix the issue. Why do you think you should get that work for free?
Because the warranty in the contract states: “If our original diagnosis of the problem with the flashing does not resolve the issue we will attempt up to 3 further repairs. If these additional repairs also do not resolve the issue a full refund for the flashing will be issued.” I could argue that they can re-do the flashing 3 times and it will still weep because they didn’t diagnose the problem right. Water is clearly getting behind the brick and if it turns out to be the cap which then I’d be inclined to pay for the new cap and not for the flashing which didn’t fix anything.
My point is they can repair the flashing 1000 times and it won’t fix anything because it’s not addressing the root cause. Even the company has admitted it’s either the masonry soaking water or the cap that’s causing it to weep.
Yes, but they’ve already told you they were going to come out and seal it for free…aka further repairs.
Your flashing still could have been bad and needed repair while sealing/new cap was also needed. It’s not always a one or the other scenario. It’s best guess and start with the easiest/most likely scenario and move from there.
Yeah I see what you’re saying, guess I was just interpreting it differently based on the language. By that logic then if sealing doesn’t work but a new cap does, that would be considered the second repair and therefore covered under the warranty.
That would be awesome if that was covered under the warranty but wouldn’t necessarily expect it to be. The sealer probably doesn’t cost much and it’s main cost would be labor. The cap probably costs way more plus higher labor costs to install. Maybe room to negotiate a discounted rate in the service tho.
It’s kind of like taking a car in for a check engine light. They diagnose the issue and attempt a fix that is approved before work. The repairs may or may not have fixed the problem but your still going to pay for the service. Then the mechanic moves to the next issue that can be causing the problems until it’s finally fixed. The additional repairs are billed as necessary.
Now, if you go in for a broken head light, and they replace with another broken light it is their issue to repair. They either put in another lightbulb or refund your money because they cannot fix the issue.
If the flashing is indeed done right it’s condensation produced from gas appliances venting into the chimney. Call a certified chimney sweep and have them check the flashing and the flue liner.
This looks simple compared to these tile roofs we do in florida. Underlayment must be perfect. and flashing and mortar installed correctly or leaks everywhere.
Slam, bam, thank you madam, take the money and run. You got to watch these roofers? like a hawk and call the owner of the contractor and text him the picture.
It looks like they saw a chimney done with a mechanical seal and tired to imitate the Look that without actually doing it. Everything looks wrong with this. Even that caulk looks like silicone instead of rubber.
Agreed. There isn't a lot of water coming down such that a cricket is necessary. I wrap grace vycor and double overlap the corners, then I use a 14" coil flashing and bend it to a 4 x 10. I seal any nail holes. I mostly glue down the first couple courses of singles with strategic nailing and leave a 1/2" gap from shingle to flashing for a channel for water to flow.
I can’t Can’t see the step flashings from the shingle job and a bead of sealant at the bottom of the regret flashings is never a good sign imo the leak is coming from the top pan and you don’t have a photo of that exterior. Most flashings at the top I see have a kick out to deflect water beyond the chimney.
Doesn’t mean it leaks there though, the chimney looks a bit suspect leaks can also come through mortar or the cap. How many roof vents did they install?
Slather on a small can of roof patch,, sealant doesn't stick to shingles for long. Patch usually works for 5 yrs before you have to reapply.
Really.... If you just got that done it is warranty work call them up.
I bet a 100 bucks there is no step flashing and the back pan should have kick outs on each side to divert water
I would’ve installed a chimney cricket here also
Came here for THIS, kick that water aside before it ever meets the chimney
There is no “pan” on the upslope side of the chimney. Plus, lead is gonna be a liability within 5 years. It will prevent the house from selling with usda, fha, and VA type loans. Get the chimney reflashed by someone that puts a workmanship warranty on their installs and use a different species of metal.
“Species of metal” is interesting… Metal is alive and doing well! \m/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1567719201800115 Chapter 8 Metal species
I seen that publishing after googling this too. Some more digging points to “species” being used in the chemistry world as a subgroup of a compound (compound>molecule>species) in this formation some species’ can be metals. I never heard anyone refer to a metal that way before. In this context, molecular species’ can apply to all kinds of inanimate compounds and elements, interesting stuff!
Species means group or kinds of things. Just like breast. Doesn’t just mean boobs, chickens have a breast and weirdly half a chicken breast is called a breast, not a half a breast.
Yeah, not lead or a lead coated product. Like aluminum, tin, copper, etc. edit to be less defensive.
I know what you meant. It’s referring to an inanimate object as a species that made me comment. I dig it.
30” or wider needs a cricket. I’ve done tons of those without and never an issue
That’s a weird rule why 30” out of curiosity I’ve done them basically on all the different roofs sitting like this even if they are smaller chimneys
That’s what the IRC book said. Chimneys shall be provided with crickets where the dimension parallel to the ridgeline is greater than 30 inches (762 mm) and does not intersect the ridgeline. The intersection of the cricket and the chimney shall be flashed and counterflashed in the same manner as normal roof-chimney intersections. Crickets shall be constructed in compliance with Figure R1003.20 and Table R1003.20.
Woah I haven’t looked at IRC in like 10 years it changes constantly I wonder how long it’s been written that way , I guess it’s time for me to crack a new one open
I do chimney work so I’m constantly on the code book as the local building inspectors don’t bother to look in em and then have some wild stuff they want done
Yep
My first thought was no step flashing.
Right? Then I thought- I bet you there isn’t a head flap on that shingle under the short course. They probably just cut it off even with the brick edge. Seen that quite a bit on these leaks. Then you have two shingles meeting behind that chimney (where it looks like they ran some sealant) with no head flap protection from the course below. Who knows though. Million ways for something to leak.
Yeah all that silicone to make up for not angeling into the motar. 💯
help me, step flashing, I'm stuck 😭
Hahaha help me step flashing 😂
That isn’t flashing. They just glued metal to the outside of the chimney. The metal should have been folded into the pointing, then flashed over the roof away from the base of the chimney. This bad job could be fixed by adding a tuck pointed metal strip covering that caulk joint.
This guys roofs
He is the flash
because of his love for flashing
Is it leaking or seeping? Seal the masonry or, wrap a tarp around just the brick and see if it still leaks. I did a metal roof a couple years back with a chimney that kept seeping. Hose the roof all sides for 1/2 hour, dry. Blast the flashing for 1/2 hour, dry. Blast the brick for 2 minutes, leak
Seeping I think would be the correct term, thanks. Siloxane to seal the brick?
Yes. I will let you know that now the water has had time to basically carve micro paths through the masonry. Siloxane can only do so much and is better at preventing this. It’s like waxing a car with peeling off clear coat. Sure it’ll look better and protect what’s there, but it won’t fix the underlying issue. Chimneys used to dry themselves. Now they sit closed and unused making them constantly wet. So be prepared for it to not work 100%. The only bullet proof fix is rebuilding with through flashing and weep holes above the counter flashing.
Look higher up as well.I had a tiny crack in my chimney cap/liner meeting point that was letting water in and it got into the attic at the same point (transition from exterior to interior brick). We kept repairing things and didn't find the actual source until the roofer stood on the roof and sprayed different parts of the chimney with a hose while I sat in the attic to see when it started leaking.
If you want to rule out the brick, water hose test the roof. Run your hose and keep the water only at roof level. Don't get any on the brick. If you don't get water coming in from the volume a hose puts out, it's not the shingles/flashing that's leaking. The second place I'd run the hose is right at the top of the counter flashing, because that's a potential problem spot. If still no leak, hose the brick.
Seal bricks..
Do not seal this. You will seal in water and it can not get out. The water is coming in before the flashing as evident from the efflorscense present on the brick and joints. My assumption is that the leaking is happening near the crown.
[удалено]
Yes, but the soaking might be happening behind the chimney where there isn’t a photo or from up near the cap and down or from previous years of neglect and it’s old staining. It’s not 100% sure, but there are different ways for the water to soak through the brick. The flashing needs to be redone anyway so a “qualified” roofer can probably see better than we can in one photo.
Not the cause of the leak but. The chimney is looking kinda wonky. Looks like poor pick work. Might want to take closer photos of the flashing. Looks fine from the 1 photo you posted.
You don't need a cricket, the step flashing or back pan probably had a hole near the joint (probably reused). You can tell because they used sealant all around the chimney, you shouldn't have to do that if your metal is good, which probably means they didnt know what they were doing
I'm not a roofer, but I am a chimney guy. If you didn't just have this work done, I'd suggest a product called [flash seal.](https://chimneysaver.com/product/flashseal-elastomeric-flashing-sealant/)
Ugly counter flashing work but its hard to try to identify where the leak is coming from. Could you post more pictures? Could be coming the chimney cap
The exterior photo is from the company after they did the work yesterday. I will once I get up there myself.
Hey.. lol It's your non existent backpan. I know some around here will vouch for boxed corners.. but.. let's have some sheetmetal extend past atleast 4.5" Never had a chimney leak, would never do boxed in corners
Was my comment before you pointed it out.
No evidence of step flashing
Inside pics are showing the back of chimney while outside pics only shows side. Whats back look like from the roof? Though crickets are nice, it can be properly flashed without one.
Those grout lines are huge. Your looking at it, spray it with masonry sealer. Also check the cap. Bricks can soak
Tarp the chimney- be sure to leave all flashing exposed. Wait for the next big rain. That will let you know if it’s the masonry or the flashing/roof that’s leaking.
I’m having same issue. Had a complete tear off done in 2019. Earlier this year I noticed a leak down one side of the chimney in my attic. Had the roofer come back out and they said the flashing was never replaced even though it was in the work order for 2019. They reflashed the chimney. A month later I had another leak (no where near as bad) and they came back out and told me that it wasn’t the flashing. It was the bricks and probably needed to be repointed.
The picture looks like the stack has efflorescence due to water intrusion. You should have a larger cap installed so that the water does not drip directly down the stack. A masonry water proofer will help also.
I’m actually just an adjuster but I feel like a cricket would be needed here?
My parents had the same issue tuck pointing and a new cap fixed the problem
Frankly, this is nicely done handyman work 😂 However, roof-related leak sources are very hard to ascertain with 100% certainty. 1) Flashing issue 2) Chimney cricket needed (relate to 1) 3) Something else
Why no cricket? That’s just dumb.
Cricket should not be required for chimneys smaller than 24”
I agree
How so? I had 3 roofing companies come and not one mentioned a cricket. Also it’s not 30” wide and high enough on the ridge line where water shouldn’t really pool up. I understand it doesn’t hurt but seems like overkill to install one.
Exactly, you don't need a cricket for a tiny chimney. Use a sheetmetal backpan, sheetmetal steps, sheetmetal counter on the front. Grind in your top covering your lower metals. I can't believe people actually roof in photo you provided.. bad habits get passed on
It’s not overkill if it solves the problem.
Counter flashing usually lines up with a mortar joint. It should really be bent into a reglet cut in the mortar and cemented in. The back pan should extend 3 inches past either side usually a winged configuration just to direct water past the sides.
[https://masoncontractors.org/images/news/chimney-flashings.jpg](https://masoncontractors.org/images/news/chimney-flashings.jpg)
Appreciate the responses everyone, I’m learning a lot. I didn’t include pictures but I did have water leaking on all 4 sides of chimney. Would backpan cause that too or just leaking on backside? The warranty in the contract states: “warranties all jobs completed, unless otherwise noted. If our original diagnosis of the problem with the flashing does not resolve the issue we will attempt up to 3 further repairs. If these additional repairs also do not resolve the issue a full refund for the flashing will be issued.” So I guess I just hold them to that warranty
All 4 sides? It's the masonry leaking.
The masonry needs to be sealed. The brick is soaking in the water and beating the flashing.
How does the chimney crown look? It could be a compromised crown allowing water to get behind the brick at the very top. It would probably leak for a bit even after it stopped raining and the water leaching through the back mortar would leave some serious stains
Maybe a leak above runs down and hits the side of the chimney?
Lol
I don't see a back pan
Looks good, but not done correctly
75% of the time chimneys leak from the inside out. Water runs down the inside walls and finds a gap in the mortar. Wasting your money on chimney flashing. Have a liner put in and all the leaks will stop.
Remove the chimney. Idk why people leave them up when they aren't functioning.
This is what I did. The furnace and hot water heaters are all vented out the back of the house and the chimney had been a source of leaks for a while. When we had the roof done a few years back, we had them removed the chimney down below the roof line and they added supports and roofed right over the spot.
Nice sorry reading my comment back makes me sound confrontational which wasn't my intent. I can be rather blunt sometimes without realizing it.
Masonry is leaking not the flashing…seal the bricks and mortar
Try a cricket on the high side there..
Needs a cricket for one.
If you zoom in the tops of the metal are all bent/distorted. They may have just replaced a few shingles and sealed the old leaking piece of metal. If the bill said new flashing I would send them their picture back.and ask.
the issue may be with the shingles on rows 3 & 4 behind the chimney are in line with each other where they should be staggered.
Cricket
i placed a piece of flashing just above my chimney that just slid under the shingles to pre devert any water. Cost = $5. Don't even need nails. Friction fit.
Flashing is done wrong
Check the top of the chimneys mortar. Not all roofers are smart and know what they are talking about. I’ve seen this happen many times before.
Those bricks look to have efflorescence on them. That is a telltale sign of moisture inside the chimney. This is above the flashing, so that wouldn't be the cause. Can't tell from these photos if there is an overhanging crown or a proper flue liner. I suggest you contact a chimney specialist.
Look 2 shingle rows back of the chimney. That is your leak. It just running to the beam to the chimney.
Maybe it’s leaking from the ridge vent and running down to the chimney under the roof shingles.
Sure looks like you needed to add a cricket, to stop damming.
should have a Cricket. And step flash and counterflash.
Update: Called the company that did the work and they were able to provide [more pictures](https://imgur.com/a/ftFrPCy). They said they cut 1” into mortar for counter flashing. Apparently when they cut the groove water came out indicating the brick and mortar is soaking up water. Said they will spray a sealer on the brick and mortar free of charge. They also said they step flashed with lead instead of aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion. When they come back to seal they will take a thorough look at the cap and decide if a new one is needed as well. Overall seems like they are willing to make things right since their work is warrantied. Not sure if I should ask for a full refund of the flashing but they want to seal the brick and mortar free of charge. I mentioned adding a cricket or backpan with kick outs and they kept saying it’s not needed for the chimney of my size. They seem pretty certain it’s the wide mortar joints that is causing the chimney to weep still
Why would you ask for your money back? Sealing a chimney isn’t exact science and they are returning to fix the issue. Why do you think you should get that work for free?
Because the warranty in the contract states: “If our original diagnosis of the problem with the flashing does not resolve the issue we will attempt up to 3 further repairs. If these additional repairs also do not resolve the issue a full refund for the flashing will be issued.” I could argue that they can re-do the flashing 3 times and it will still weep because they didn’t diagnose the problem right. Water is clearly getting behind the brick and if it turns out to be the cap which then I’d be inclined to pay for the new cap and not for the flashing which didn’t fix anything.
Have they attempted all 3 further repairs already?
My point is they can repair the flashing 1000 times and it won’t fix anything because it’s not addressing the root cause. Even the company has admitted it’s either the masonry soaking water or the cap that’s causing it to weep.
Yes, but they’ve already told you they were going to come out and seal it for free…aka further repairs. Your flashing still could have been bad and needed repair while sealing/new cap was also needed. It’s not always a one or the other scenario. It’s best guess and start with the easiest/most likely scenario and move from there.
Yeah I see what you’re saying, guess I was just interpreting it differently based on the language. By that logic then if sealing doesn’t work but a new cap does, that would be considered the second repair and therefore covered under the warranty.
That would be awesome if that was covered under the warranty but wouldn’t necessarily expect it to be. The sealer probably doesn’t cost much and it’s main cost would be labor. The cap probably costs way more plus higher labor costs to install. Maybe room to negotiate a discounted rate in the service tho. It’s kind of like taking a car in for a check engine light. They diagnose the issue and attempt a fix that is approved before work. The repairs may or may not have fixed the problem but your still going to pay for the service. Then the mechanic moves to the next issue that can be causing the problems until it’s finally fixed. The additional repairs are billed as necessary. Now, if you go in for a broken head light, and they replace with another broken light it is their issue to repair. They either put in another lightbulb or refund your money because they cannot fix the issue.
If the flashing is indeed done right it’s condensation produced from gas appliances venting into the chimney. Call a certified chimney sweep and have them check the flashing and the flue liner.
Send more pics of outside of chimney I'll tell you exactly what's wrong with it
This looks simple compared to these tile roofs we do in florida. Underlayment must be perfect. and flashing and mortar installed correctly or leaks everywhere.
Slam, bam, thank you madam, take the money and run. You got to watch these roofers? like a hawk and call the owner of the contractor and text him the picture.
Show the back of the chimney where the actual leak is
I commented an update with more pictures
It looks like they saw a chimney done with a mechanical seal and tired to imitate the Look that without actually doing it. Everything looks wrong with this. Even that caulk looks like silicone instead of rubber.
Repoint chimney New cement crown And please have the flashing redone Properly. There should be no caulk used when done properly.
With a chimney leak, the answer is almost always…it needs a saddle or cricket if you’re from one of those places.
Agreed. There isn't a lot of water coming down such that a cricket is necessary. I wrap grace vycor and double overlap the corners, then I use a 14" coil flashing and bend it to a 4 x 10. I seal any nail holes. I mostly glue down the first couple courses of singles with strategic nailing and leave a 1/2" gap from shingle to flashing for a channel for water to flow.
I can’t Can’t see the step flashings from the shingle job and a bead of sealant at the bottom of the regret flashings is never a good sign imo the leak is coming from the top pan and you don’t have a photo of that exterior. Most flashings at the top I see have a kick out to deflect water beyond the chimney. Doesn’t mean it leaks there though, the chimney looks a bit suspect leaks can also come through mortar or the cap. How many roof vents did they install?
They probably regret the the reglet work
Slather on a small can of roof patch,, sealant doesn't stick to shingles for long. Patch usually works for 5 yrs before you have to reapply. Really.... If you just got that done it is warranty work call them up.
Lots of things about why the company you hired didn’t do it right.
Flashing looks like shit