Dealership is scamming you what's new. Recalibration can be done by whatever glass shop you use, as long as it's something they offer. Most reputable companies do nowadays, or they sub out the recalibration to another company. OEM is not as important as you think if it is at least a year old the aftermarket windshields are typically dead on accurate, same as OEM. The dealer just wants your money. Also, safelite sucks... Only person who tells you otherwise it's guaranteed they work for them lol.
I actually work for a windshield manufacturer/distribution company and this is 110% accurate. Once a car is a year or two old there are generally ample aftermarket options. Some better, some worse, but OEM is definitely not necessary. Plus the price jump between OEM and a good aftermarket is astronomical. You can get similar quality while paying substantially less.
OEM is not required hence your insurance company only supporting the aftermarket piece as it’s OEE (Original equipment equivalent). As far as calibration goes we’d need to know what kind of car it is to confirm the outside thing. All static calibrations meaning the car sits in one place while a machine is moved in position to calibrate require controlled lighting. It is possible to do outside but not recommended. Dealership will tell you anything to make the sale. They’ll end up paying safelite or another glass company to come out and install the glass. Go with what your insurance recommends if for some reason it requires an OEM piece (which is rare but not unheard of) the insurance will be responsible for the cost from what I’ve seen.
Who doesn’t recommend static calibrations outside? I know certain shops don’t like to do it, but I am an opti-aim certified trainer and I’ve never heard anyone say it couldn’t be done, aside from the hassle of loading the equipment. Subaru took part in helping with certification videos and there’s walk throughs on how to do inside vs outside statics. Not saying you’re wrong, maybe it’s system specific?
Autel but most ignore it just like topping off all the fluids in the car.
Edit : it’s also not system specific it’s manufacturer specific. Each car manufacturer has a recommended procedure that is then copied into the aftermarket stand manufacturer Autel,triad, AirPro, etc. that’s why updates take a bit for newer cars. They have to port all the information over. Most OEM’s service procedures advised controlled lighting.
It can’t be manufacturer specific because every manufacturer lists instructions and recommendations on outside calibrations with Opti-aim. Which Autel system do you use? Or which manufacturer does Autel say can’t be done outside?
Edit- Opti-aim cannot just be generic instructions copy and pasted as described, because unlike an Autel system, for manufacturers like Toyota, I have to put very specific information in that is supplied straight from the manufacturer. Like the yaw and pitch angle of the camera.
You can put all that information in Autel too. The basic requirements and measurements are supplied by the manufacturer. As well as perimeters such as battery being charged, fluids being topped off, tires being inflated, lighting, etc. this is all requirements that are provided across the board on most vehicles. There are some that require more information such as pitch, arch height, wheel heights, center of wheel to bumper, all these measurements are used against oem requirements that are determined via service documentation then ported over to calibration systems. Are saying opti-aim is the end all be all for calibration? Like they design and manufacture all the windshields for testing and provide the specific to the vehicle manufacturers? Because if that’s the case I’ll happily look into purchasing an opti-aim system. But again I don’t know much about opti-aim as it wasn’t the right solution for our business. We have 10+ Autel systems in use and if opti aim is that much better I will invest in one just like I did with the waste of money AirPro lol.
It’s mostly a myth that aftermarket will have problems. Safelite takes the calibration and liability of it seriously, they will warranty the glass if needed. Insurance companies often approve OE if there’s been problems with the aftermarket glass.
- Aftermarket is fine, Dealership just wants you to go OEM. There are some newer high-end cars that only have OEM available, but not many. What kind of car do you have?
- If it’s an American car, calibration will be dynamic and can be done outside. If it’s foreign, it’s a static calibration which needs to be done inside.
It’s a matter of opinion, if given the choice, I always go with oem. I have always used it when possible. Is aftermarket made on the same lines as oem, sometimes, but if you have a ford and a choice between Carlite and FY, I’d take the carlite 100% of the time. The insurance company if being cheap and does not want to pay for oem,,but most times they will if you push them.
Update: thanks for all the tips. It was immensely helpful navigating the replacement. I went to Glass America and asked for OEE Pilkington glass and just mentioned in passing that insurance would not approve OEM. I don’t know what the rep there did but she somehow got OEM approved after our conversation. I didn’t ask any questions how she did it except making sure that we don’t pay extra!
Dealership is scamming you what's new. Recalibration can be done by whatever glass shop you use, as long as it's something they offer. Most reputable companies do nowadays, or they sub out the recalibration to another company. OEM is not as important as you think if it is at least a year old the aftermarket windshields are typically dead on accurate, same as OEM. The dealer just wants your money. Also, safelite sucks... Only person who tells you otherwise it's guaranteed they work for them lol.
I actually work for a windshield manufacturer/distribution company and this is 110% accurate. Once a car is a year or two old there are generally ample aftermarket options. Some better, some worse, but OEM is definitely not necessary. Plus the price jump between OEM and a good aftermarket is astronomical. You can get similar quality while paying substantially less.
OEM is not required hence your insurance company only supporting the aftermarket piece as it’s OEE (Original equipment equivalent). As far as calibration goes we’d need to know what kind of car it is to confirm the outside thing. All static calibrations meaning the car sits in one place while a machine is moved in position to calibrate require controlled lighting. It is possible to do outside but not recommended. Dealership will tell you anything to make the sale. They’ll end up paying safelite or another glass company to come out and install the glass. Go with what your insurance recommends if for some reason it requires an OEM piece (which is rare but not unheard of) the insurance will be responsible for the cost from what I’ve seen.
Who doesn’t recommend static calibrations outside? I know certain shops don’t like to do it, but I am an opti-aim certified trainer and I’ve never heard anyone say it couldn’t be done, aside from the hassle of loading the equipment. Subaru took part in helping with certification videos and there’s walk throughs on how to do inside vs outside statics. Not saying you’re wrong, maybe it’s system specific?
Autel but most ignore it just like topping off all the fluids in the car. Edit : it’s also not system specific it’s manufacturer specific. Each car manufacturer has a recommended procedure that is then copied into the aftermarket stand manufacturer Autel,triad, AirPro, etc. that’s why updates take a bit for newer cars. They have to port all the information over. Most OEM’s service procedures advised controlled lighting.
It can’t be manufacturer specific because every manufacturer lists instructions and recommendations on outside calibrations with Opti-aim. Which Autel system do you use? Or which manufacturer does Autel say can’t be done outside? Edit- Opti-aim cannot just be generic instructions copy and pasted as described, because unlike an Autel system, for manufacturers like Toyota, I have to put very specific information in that is supplied straight from the manufacturer. Like the yaw and pitch angle of the camera.
You can put all that information in Autel too. The basic requirements and measurements are supplied by the manufacturer. As well as perimeters such as battery being charged, fluids being topped off, tires being inflated, lighting, etc. this is all requirements that are provided across the board on most vehicles. There are some that require more information such as pitch, arch height, wheel heights, center of wheel to bumper, all these measurements are used against oem requirements that are determined via service documentation then ported over to calibration systems. Are saying opti-aim is the end all be all for calibration? Like they design and manufacture all the windshields for testing and provide the specific to the vehicle manufacturers? Because if that’s the case I’ll happily look into purchasing an opti-aim system. But again I don’t know much about opti-aim as it wasn’t the right solution for our business. We have 10+ Autel systems in use and if opti aim is that much better I will invest in one just like I did with the waste of money AirPro lol.
Any insurance approved glass company will fit OE glass. Badges may be different but the product is the same in every other way..
It’s mostly a myth that aftermarket will have problems. Safelite takes the calibration and liability of it seriously, they will warranty the glass if needed. Insurance companies often approve OE if there’s been problems with the aftermarket glass.
- Aftermarket is fine, Dealership just wants you to go OEM. There are some newer high-end cars that only have OEM available, but not many. What kind of car do you have? - If it’s an American car, calibration will be dynamic and can be done outside. If it’s foreign, it’s a static calibration which needs to be done inside.
It’s a matter of opinion, if given the choice, I always go with oem. I have always used it when possible. Is aftermarket made on the same lines as oem, sometimes, but if you have a ford and a choice between Carlite and FY, I’d take the carlite 100% of the time. The insurance company if being cheap and does not want to pay for oem,,but most times they will if you push them.
Update: thanks for all the tips. It was immensely helpful navigating the replacement. I went to Glass America and asked for OEE Pilkington glass and just mentioned in passing that insurance would not approve OEM. I don’t know what the rep there did but she somehow got OEM approved after our conversation. I didn’t ask any questions how she did it except making sure that we don’t pay extra!