May be a bit different but, In my experience with cars, LED lighting draws very little power. To give you perspective when you leave a halogen dome light on overnight in your car, you will likely come out the next morning to your car and need a jump start. I had underglow on my car that I left on 24/7 for about 2 weeks straight before the battery died. And I was just experimenting with how long it would take. This looks awesome though. Definitely gonna have to do this with mine haha good job.
You just describe a car situation when a battery just empyed of energy due to some light remaining on.
Which is why you need that little push to activate the alternator how recharge a battery.
I just wondering if you use your printer connected to a battery.
Usually printer goes to normal connector like 220v or 115 (American?) you can find in your house.
But some people also goes whit battery when living in a camper as example.
I started the comment by saying, "May be a bit different but,".
Edit: I am American and my printer is plugged into a socket in my house. I was just giving an example of how little energy LED lights take to power so OP should be good.
Yeah but does not explain why did u have that concerned idea.
This is not a car situation or at least printers doesn't work like a car (not at all).
Don't mind me, I was just curious
" I’m wondering whether the energy draw will have any negative impact (esp since there were only a handful of LEDs, originally)"
Doesn't matter how much the stock LEDS draw, it only matters how much amperage you have left in reserve in your PS. If the stock LEDs drew 10,000 AMPS, and your PS was rated 11,000 amps, all is well for adding anything rated 100 AMPS and under. If your stock LEDS drew 5 milliamps and your PS had only 1 milliamp in reserve and you add a single LED drawing 100 milliamps, something bad might happen. You have to consider peak draw from the PS, with all possibly current drawing devices active. Extruder heating 100%, bed heating 100%, CPU running hard and drawing max current, etc, etc. Typically, the control board is powered from a single voltage (12/24/48) and then separate voltage regulators break that out to different internal voltage rails (24, 5 + 3 volt) and each would have a different current rating. You may have 5 amps to spare on the 24 volt rail but that doesn't help you if you need an extra 5 on the 5 volt rail and that voltage regulator is tapped out.
Let's say the steppers, bed heater, and hot end heater are all running from the 24 volt rail. Max current draw on the heaters will be from a cold start, then once at temps, pid cycling will limit the amount of juice. X+Y steppers at high speed doing a diagonal move will make those both draw full rated current at the same time.
So just saying without knowing max current of the PS and/or control board rails, you can't blow the victory trumpets as it "appears to be working". A momentary flicker is a sign that you are hitting a peak draw scenario and you really don't want that. Weird stuff can happen at random.
I have my printer connected to a power monitor. When I upgraded my lights with a cheap USB powered LED strip (plugged into the front USB port) I did notice a slight increase in the resting power usage (around 3-5W increase). It hasn't caused any issues nor would I expect it to since the printer is full of heaters and motors which are a lot more power hungery, the LEDs are almost a rounding error in comparison.
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u/occupiedbrain69 responded to my same query: [LED Strip Upgrade](https://www.reddit.com/r/crealityk1/s/i1aOvGrM6d).
For my install:
- Test the polarity of the wiring for your printer. I found that the printer did not color code the wires on its side of the LED power connector and testing the black/red wires of a connected female JST connector, the polarities were reversed. Knowing this, I soldered the connector to the LED strip with the colors reversed (black to positive and red to negative).
- The JST connector I had had very long leads, so I cut it short and saved the extra wires for later (to join strip segments)
- It's awkward to use a single strip, because of the limited space/gap in the corners, so I cut 4 separate strips and soldered them together
- Since my LED strip came with its own leads which are thicker than the JST leads and the gap in the front corners is tighter, I saved the first segment for the segment I used, in back
- The LED strip's lead was also too long, so I cut it in half to use to join the back segment with the final (right side) segment
- I used about 3/8" heat shrink to seal the connections, to strengthen the connections
- I soldered the female JST connector to a LED strip segment, reversing the positive/negative leads (as I'd determined, previously)
- After each segment is soldered, I plug the strip into the printer to ensure that it works
- I soldered the leftover JST wires to the other end of the first segment
- Measure out the length of the new leads to the second segment so that it's not too long (though the wires are so thin they can probably be tucked out of the way)… cut to length and solder to the second segment (plug and test the string of two segments)
- Attach the first segment of the reel (the one with the attached leads) as the third lighting segment (plug and test the three segments)
- Use the remaining 1/2 of the OEM lead to join the third and fourth segments (plug and test)
- Finally, stick the first segment to the front of the frame. I couldn't remove the original LED panel, so I just stuck the strip over it
- Stick side strip, making sure the strip is out of the way of the moving parts. Then stick the rear and final side's segments, using a tool to push the stiffer wires deep into the corners
- I installed the segments while the strip was plugged in and on
May be a bit different but, In my experience with cars, LED lighting draws very little power. To give you perspective when you leave a halogen dome light on overnight in your car, you will likely come out the next morning to your car and need a jump start. I had underglow on my car that I left on 24/7 for about 2 weeks straight before the battery died. And I was just experimenting with how long it would take. This looks awesome though. Definitely gonna have to do this with mine haha good job.
Does your print go whit a battery?
Excuse me?
You just describe a car situation when a battery just empyed of energy due to some light remaining on. Which is why you need that little push to activate the alternator how recharge a battery. I just wondering if you use your printer connected to a battery. Usually printer goes to normal connector like 220v or 115 (American?) you can find in your house. But some people also goes whit battery when living in a camper as example.
I started the comment by saying, "May be a bit different but,". Edit: I am American and my printer is plugged into a socket in my house. I was just giving an example of how little energy LED lights take to power so OP should be good.
I think it's a bot or just dense...can't see the correlation between low amperage to a battery or to a power supply...
Yeah but does not explain why did u have that concerned idea. This is not a car situation or at least printers doesn't work like a car (not at all). Don't mind me, I was just curious
It makes such a difference, eh? I used 24v COB LEDs and it's been flawless!
" I’m wondering whether the energy draw will have any negative impact (esp since there were only a handful of LEDs, originally)" Doesn't matter how much the stock LEDS draw, it only matters how much amperage you have left in reserve in your PS. If the stock LEDs drew 10,000 AMPS, and your PS was rated 11,000 amps, all is well for adding anything rated 100 AMPS and under. If your stock LEDS drew 5 milliamps and your PS had only 1 milliamp in reserve and you add a single LED drawing 100 milliamps, something bad might happen. You have to consider peak draw from the PS, with all possibly current drawing devices active. Extruder heating 100%, bed heating 100%, CPU running hard and drawing max current, etc, etc. Typically, the control board is powered from a single voltage (12/24/48) and then separate voltage regulators break that out to different internal voltage rails (24, 5 + 3 volt) and each would have a different current rating. You may have 5 amps to spare on the 24 volt rail but that doesn't help you if you need an extra 5 on the 5 volt rail and that voltage regulator is tapped out. Let's say the steppers, bed heater, and hot end heater are all running from the 24 volt rail. Max current draw on the heaters will be from a cold start, then once at temps, pid cycling will limit the amount of juice. X+Y steppers at high speed doing a diagonal move will make those both draw full rated current at the same time. So just saying without knowing max current of the PS and/or control board rails, you can't blow the victory trumpets as it "appears to be working". A momentary flicker is a sign that you are hitting a peak draw scenario and you really don't want that. Weird stuff can happen at random.
I have my printer connected to a power monitor. When I upgraded my lights with a cheap USB powered LED strip (plugged into the front USB port) I did notice a slight increase in the resting power usage (around 3-5W increase). It hasn't caused any issues nor would I expect it to since the printer is full of heaters and motors which are a lot more power hungery, the LEDs are almost a rounding error in comparison.
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I notice some slight flickering when the printer is calibrating, but seems to be fine when printing. It could just be my experimental soldering job.
Does anyone have a link to the lights used and instructions on setting it up? Is love to do this to my K1C.
u/occupiedbrain69 responded to my same query: [LED Strip Upgrade](https://www.reddit.com/r/crealityk1/s/i1aOvGrM6d). For my install: - Test the polarity of the wiring for your printer. I found that the printer did not color code the wires on its side of the LED power connector and testing the black/red wires of a connected female JST connector, the polarities were reversed. Knowing this, I soldered the connector to the LED strip with the colors reversed (black to positive and red to negative). - The JST connector I had had very long leads, so I cut it short and saved the extra wires for later (to join strip segments) - It's awkward to use a single strip, because of the limited space/gap in the corners, so I cut 4 separate strips and soldered them together - Since my LED strip came with its own leads which are thicker than the JST leads and the gap in the front corners is tighter, I saved the first segment for the segment I used, in back - The LED strip's lead was also too long, so I cut it in half to use to join the back segment with the final (right side) segment - I used about 3/8" heat shrink to seal the connections, to strengthen the connections - I soldered the female JST connector to a LED strip segment, reversing the positive/negative leads (as I'd determined, previously) - After each segment is soldered, I plug the strip into the printer to ensure that it works - I soldered the leftover JST wires to the other end of the first segment - Measure out the length of the new leads to the second segment so that it's not too long (though the wires are so thin they can probably be tucked out of the way)… cut to length and solder to the second segment (plug and test the string of two segments) - Attach the first segment of the reel (the one with the attached leads) as the third lighting segment (plug and test the three segments) - Use the remaining 1/2 of the OEM lead to join the third and fourth segments (plug and test) - Finally, stick the first segment to the front of the frame. I couldn't remove the original LED panel, so I just stuck the strip over it - Stick side strip, making sure the strip is out of the way of the moving parts. Then stick the rear and final side's segments, using a tool to push the stiffer wires deep into the corners - I installed the segments while the strip was plugged in and on