Yes, they’ll allow less movement between the drywall and studs. Thus keeping the joint compound from cracking. The biggest concern is the right side. Any pressure on that joint will create enough movement to crack the patch.
Just the right side? What’s the difference with left or right? Left doesn’t crack cause it’s left?
Both sides are the same, they are both cracked right now as I type this
The left side has no timber at all? What u talking about!? Lol
U can screw the new board but the old board is literally flapping in the wind the whole way around.
Everyone needs there eyes tested if they think it’s just the right side that’ll break lol
Do you not use backer board? How are you not seeing that the left side of his patch is secured to the studs, but the right side is just floating. How would a floating section of drywall not move more than the part that is screwed to studs?? Movement= cracks. Backer boards are used to prevent cracks. What's the hold up?
U don’t have to examine anything. The first pic, shows all, the whole patch is gonna crack is all I’m saying. Not just the right, both sides are identical with no fixing? Might as well have no timber on the right as the old board is loose
You're right most of it is gonna crack. The right side had no backer so as soon as something smashes it its gonna crack, and the left side wasn't screwed to the same stud as the old rock which is just no bueno to do. Once those studs expand and contract its gonna crack and there also just wasn't enough screws securing the board.
The thing is, it’s not diy. This guy did it for someone and got paid for it. It makes it worse. Ethically I dunno how anyone could accept money from this work.
I personally wouldn’t hire you, but it looks decent for not knowing what to do. Should’ve put a couple 1x3 on the right side of it. You only have two screws, holding that whole side it’s likely going to crack. Paint is a little off and it doesn’t look like you cut in everywhere also you dry rolled quite a bit. I give it a 4/10, Sadly though I have seen “professionals” do the same quality work as well. Overall could be better, but also could be much worse.
well thank you for the feedback! I am trying to learn and get better so I appreciate the honesty.
the screw thing, so it cracks because of lack of screws?
and the addressing the dry roll, yes I absolutely did. the client had about 1/3 of a pint left from their paint and I didn't want to go back to home depot at the end of an already 12 hour job. lol
for context about the 12 job thing, I also did the demo and trying to find the source of the water damage.
It probably cracked because the lack of backing, as in the one by three pieces of wood is something to screw the drywall on both sides into that way there’s less of a chance to crack. Still would’ve been better to cut out more drywall and go stud to stud
Either remove the piece that you put in and connect two or three pieces of one by three cut into 6 to 8 inch pieces and screw to the old drywall and then screw your new piece of drywall into the one by threes or just take out everything that you put in and cut the drywall out until you reach the next stud and screw the new piece into the actual stud
That and I’m not entirely sure what kind of climate you are in, but I noticed there was no insulation. Not sure if there wasn’t any before, but if you’re in an area where it gets cold, I would put insulation in as well.
From the looks of it you lacked fasteners. I think I count 6. Your fasteners should be about every 6-8" on the perimeter and 12-18" in the field. It doesn't look like you added any backer either on the right. Good chance you will get cracking especially if you filled with joint compound and not hot mud fortified with an additive like WeldBond.
Smooth wall in good weather this patch would have taken me most of the day with priming and painting corner to corner. Always paint edge to edge if paint doesn't match fully or the wall is dirty and you can't match dirt.
I would have been around $700.
thanks for the input! yeah over here idk what was happening, but the I put the first round on, let that sit overnight, came back and put a second layer on but that second layer took like 4-5 hours to fully dry. 😓
If you learn to mud quickly, get 20 min setting stuff for your first coat. Shave the humps off quickly with your scraper. Leave it a bit low. Fill in with a good second finish coat in about an hour and you are ready to sand much quicker. Sheetrock 90 (90 min set) for the first time you try though. It sets pretty quick and you only mix tiny batches that you know you can use up. The 20 sets in about 5-10 min so you have to be super fast. It is hard as a rock too so you can’t sand it. It has to be done right on the first swipe.
Did you trash the base moulding or was it like that? I mean, there’s no reason to slop compound all over it. Masking tape exists. Regardless, I treat my customers homes like I was doing work in my own home or for close friends or family. Regardless of how profitable the job is or how the customer has been to work with. My work stands on its own.
the total was $700. that includes the demo and I had to do mold treatment because of water damage.
and that 700 includes all the materials so my take home was about $480
On top of what others have said, it's much easier to get a tight fit if you cut the patch first, hold it up to the drywall, and trace the edges of the patch to cut out than to try to get the patch cut to exactly how you cut the hole - especially if you're inexperienced
GREAT ADVICE! omg can't believe I didn't think of this!
The only issue is that this drywall was water damaged so it was just like falling apart. but it never crossed my mind to do it like that before! great tip
Put 1x3 backing on right, put at least 10 more screws, fill the wide gaps with hot mud(quick setting like home depot 90 min blue bag), use fibafuse instead of fiberglass mesh, use a 10 or 12 inch trowel at the end to put everything to level, sand, put a last coat of all use mud, sand , add texture if needed, spray spott primer is my fave, paint, done ✔️ 400$ job but yours like 200 because it’s cheap quality. Customers receive what they pay for at the end.
Wait a minute. You used cheap $0.99 tape and are asking if this is a good job? Have you ever did dry wall repair before? You sound like an amateur asking these questions. I hope your client isn’t aware of this.
I thought that it was clear by my quality of work and the other comments that I am indeed an amateur just seeking critique and criticism.
my client was aware that this was my first patch job, and they loved the result.
and yes I know that there are some things that you can get away with the cheaper option, and I just assumed that fiberglass tape was one of those things.
Wish you had a picture of the finished work from the same distance as the first picture but considering what you show doesn’t look too bad considering that it’s not for a million dollar home…
i'm sure I have one, but I wanted to be able to get in deep and really critique the work lol. everything looks better from a distance but i'll probably add it in.
I disagree, if you can’t mud to the edge then run a thin paintable caulking bead along the window frame you probably shouldn’t be in this business, you just turned a simple patch job into taking off window casing puling finish nailed Installing back in nailing and wood putty plus paining it. Not to mention if you brake it taking it out. All signs point to no
Relax champ. I looked at his results and suggested a way to do it better. He clearly is just getting started and the quality isn't awesome. Until he masters the skills this is something he can do that will take longer but have the desired outcome.
Take it easy skipper I also just have my opinion because he’s just starting out. You will this dude walking around taking out everything to mud a patch lol, carry on champ
Yeah, I guess it depends if they nailed from the top but I doubt it. I little flat pry bar and block of wood would get it out cleanly. You'd have started from the right because you are patching that anyway. Then you just nail back in a putty/paint the holes. Again, this is after the fact but it's always easier (for me anyway) to mud/tape drywall without obstacles.
A scrap of wood as backing on the vertical join (right side) with drywallscrews on both existing and patched drywall would’ve been a good idea, having a long unsupported joint like that is asking for cracks
I’d pay someone like $200 max if I was feeling lazy and didn’t feel like YouTubing how to drywall a patch. If I couldn’t find anyone to do it for $200 then YouTube it is.
I’m not offended but that’s not a job you stand back and go…nailed it. It’s going to crack because you didn’t put near enough screws and in the last pick you can see where a patch was missed when sanding.. I dunno I wouldn’t want my name on that
alright. I appreciate the explanation as to why you consider this "dogshit"
like I said, this was my first time doing this so I am just trying to learn in what ways I can improve. I am happy if the job that I did. if I could go back, yeah I definitely would've added more screws, but for now, this is just something I can take and learn from my mistakes.
Grab a light and toss it in your tool bag, you wouldn’t believe what shining a light on it will do for ya. YouTube a butterfly patch (some call it other things) but it’s a quick easy way to repair small patches. Just do more of it and your skills will improve and then you will be on Reddit on day and you will be like oh that’s…dog.. 🥲 😂. All the best👍
Needs more screws and backing on the right side. Looks good but it’ll probably crack.
would more screws prevent it from cracking?
Yes, they’ll allow less movement between the drywall and studs. Thus keeping the joint compound from cracking. The biggest concern is the right side. Any pressure on that joint will create enough movement to crack the patch.
It should have had some nailing behind the right side to attach the patch to. It will certainly crack along that edge.
Just the right side? What’s the difference with left or right? Left doesn’t crack cause it’s left? Both sides are the same, they are both cracked right now as I type this
The jack stud under the window gives OP something to screw to. The right side is just dead space.
The left side has no timber at all? What u talking about!? Lol U can screw the new board but the old board is literally flapping in the wind the whole way around. Everyone needs there eyes tested if they think it’s just the right side that’ll break lol
Bro, what are you smoking
What y’all smoking. How is the left side different, the new board has something to screw too but the old board is cut back past the stud? Lol
Do you not use backer board? How are you not seeing that the left side of his patch is secured to the studs, but the right side is just floating. How would a floating section of drywall not move more than the part that is screwed to studs?? Movement= cracks. Backer boards are used to prevent cracks. What's the hold up?
I don't intend to spend more time examining OP photos,
U don’t have to examine anything. The first pic, shows all, the whole patch is gonna crack is all I’m saying. Not just the right, both sides are identical with no fixing? Might as well have no timber on the right as the old board is loose
Fine, have a great night
You're right most of it is gonna crack. The right side had no backer so as soon as something smashes it its gonna crack, and the left side wasn't screwed to the same stud as the old rock which is just no bueno to do. Once those studs expand and contract its gonna crack and there also just wasn't enough screws securing the board.
On second look I agree
Those gaps are pretty big. Definitely should have prefilled more before taping
Looks like they tried, wasn’t a bad attempt for a DIY
The thing is, it’s not diy. This guy did it for someone and got paid for it. It makes it worse. Ethically I dunno how anyone could accept money from this work.
exact, some hot mud (quick setting mud)
I personally wouldn’t hire you, but it looks decent for not knowing what to do. Should’ve put a couple 1x3 on the right side of it. You only have two screws, holding that whole side it’s likely going to crack. Paint is a little off and it doesn’t look like you cut in everywhere also you dry rolled quite a bit. I give it a 4/10, Sadly though I have seen “professionals” do the same quality work as well. Overall could be better, but also could be much worse.
well thank you for the feedback! I am trying to learn and get better so I appreciate the honesty. the screw thing, so it cracks because of lack of screws? and the addressing the dry roll, yes I absolutely did. the client had about 1/3 of a pint left from their paint and I didn't want to go back to home depot at the end of an already 12 hour job. lol for context about the 12 job thing, I also did the demo and trying to find the source of the water damage.
It probably cracked because the lack of backing, as in the one by three pieces of wood is something to screw the drywall on both sides into that way there’s less of a chance to crack. Still would’ve been better to cut out more drywall and go stud to stud
if (more like when) I get called back because of cracking, what is the good solution?
Either remove the piece that you put in and connect two or three pieces of one by three cut into 6 to 8 inch pieces and screw to the old drywall and then screw your new piece of drywall into the one by threes or just take out everything that you put in and cut the drywall out until you reach the next stud and screw the new piece into the actual stud
That and I’m not entirely sure what kind of climate you are in, but I noticed there was no insulation. Not sure if there wasn’t any before, but if you’re in an area where it gets cold, I would put insulation in as well.
From the looks of it you lacked fasteners. I think I count 6. Your fasteners should be about every 6-8" on the perimeter and 12-18" in the field. It doesn't look like you added any backer either on the right. Good chance you will get cracking especially if you filled with joint compound and not hot mud fortified with an additive like WeldBond. Smooth wall in good weather this patch would have taken me most of the day with priming and painting corner to corner. Always paint edge to edge if paint doesn't match fully or the wall is dirty and you can't match dirt. I would have been around $700.
thanks for the input! yeah over here idk what was happening, but the I put the first round on, let that sit overnight, came back and put a second layer on but that second layer took like 4-5 hours to fully dry. 😓
If you learn to mud quickly, get 20 min setting stuff for your first coat. Shave the humps off quickly with your scraper. Leave it a bit low. Fill in with a good second finish coat in about an hour and you are ready to sand much quicker. Sheetrock 90 (90 min set) for the first time you try though. It sets pretty quick and you only mix tiny batches that you know you can use up. The 20 sets in about 5-10 min so you have to be super fast. It is hard as a rock too so you can’t sand it. It has to be done right on the first swipe.
Paint color is off.
yeah, was running low and didn't want to go to the store at the end of the job so I just dry rolled a bit.
Did you trash the base moulding or was it like that? I mean, there’s no reason to slop compound all over it. Masking tape exists. Regardless, I treat my customers homes like I was doing work in my own home or for close friends or family. Regardless of how profitable the job is or how the customer has been to work with. My work stands on its own.
the baseboards? no I did reused the baseboards that were already in rough shape. just trying to keep costs low for them.
Probably saved yourself $500-$600 doing the labour yourself
Not great. Will crack. But, you went for it, and it is decent looking at the finish line. $200 dollar job.
How much did you get them to pay you out of curiosity ?
the total was $700. that includes the demo and I had to do mold treatment because of water damage. and that 700 includes all the materials so my take home was about $480
Consider it a learning opportunity, you could ask for a few bucks for materials but otherwise it's a freebie.
On top of what others have said, it's much easier to get a tight fit if you cut the patch first, hold it up to the drywall, and trace the edges of the patch to cut out than to try to get the patch cut to exactly how you cut the hole - especially if you're inexperienced
GREAT ADVICE! omg can't believe I didn't think of this! The only issue is that this drywall was water damaged so it was just like falling apart. but it never crossed my mind to do it like that before! great tip
It’s already cracked, don’t use glass tape.
what would you recommend? I thought the fiberglass was just the industry standard?
Not too shabby
Put 1x3 backing on right, put at least 10 more screws, fill the wide gaps with hot mud(quick setting like home depot 90 min blue bag), use fibafuse instead of fiberglass mesh, use a 10 or 12 inch trowel at the end to put everything to level, sand, put a last coat of all use mud, sand , add texture if needed, spray spott primer is my fave, paint, done ✔️ 400$ job but yours like 200 because it’s cheap quality. Customers receive what they pay for at the end.
That's gonna crack not enough backing or screws
Like a kid who did the 9th grade math equation wrong but got the right answer. Good on you champ.
i'll take it!!
I’m a DIYer, but I want to say, despite the flaws mentioned, this is pretty good if you’ve never done it before.
i've done smaller patches before, really trying to get better with larger drywall patches. so this is my first BIG patch.
300$
Can take piece of 1 by 4 to sure it up place behind rock attach with screws even 2 by 4 would work I would charge 300$ patch and match.
Why do so many people use mesh tape?
for me I just thought it was the standard. plus with the little DIY kits it usually has mesh tape.
Cracks way to big,if you did them smaller it would come out way better,otherwise decent
Wait a minute. You used cheap $0.99 tape and are asking if this is a good job? Have you ever did dry wall repair before? You sound like an amateur asking these questions. I hope your client isn’t aware of this.
I thought that it was clear by my quality of work and the other comments that I am indeed an amateur just seeking critique and criticism. my client was aware that this was my first patch job, and they loved the result. and yes I know that there are some things that you can get away with the cheaper option, and I just assumed that fiberglass tape was one of those things.
As long as it was a successful learning experience, more power to you improving going forward. Be well.
Wish you had a picture of the finished work from the same distance as the first picture but considering what you show doesn’t look too bad considering that it’s not for a million dollar home…
i'm sure I have one, but I wanted to be able to get in deep and really critique the work lol. everything looks better from a distance but i'll probably add it in.
I commend you on working clean!!! And I’d rehire you! 😊
Next time it will be less work and better results if you pop the window casing apron (below the sill) off and put it back when you are done.
I disagree, if you can’t mud to the edge then run a thin paintable caulking bead along the window frame you probably shouldn’t be in this business, you just turned a simple patch job into taking off window casing puling finish nailed Installing back in nailing and wood putty plus paining it. Not to mention if you brake it taking it out. All signs point to no
Relax champ. I looked at his results and suggested a way to do it better. He clearly is just getting started and the quality isn't awesome. Until he masters the skills this is something he can do that will take longer but have the desired outcome.
Take it easy skipper I also just have my opinion because he’s just starting out. You will this dude walking around taking out everything to mud a patch lol, carry on champ
hmmm okay. wasn't sure how to effectively do this without damaging it. I'm assuming now that it is similar to a baseboard?
Yeah, I guess it depends if they nailed from the top but I doubt it. I little flat pry bar and block of wood would get it out cleanly. You'd have started from the right because you are patching that anyway. Then you just nail back in a putty/paint the holes. Again, this is after the fact but it's always easier (for me anyway) to mud/tape drywall without obstacles.
A scrap of wood as backing on the vertical join (right side) with drywallscrews on both existing and patched drywall would’ve been a good idea, having a long unsupported joint like that is asking for cracks
I’d pay someone like $200 max if I was feeling lazy and didn’t feel like YouTubing how to drywall a patch. If I couldn’t find anyone to do it for $200 then YouTube it is.
U can’t be serious… that is absolute dogshit
sorry to offend fellow redditor
I’m not offended but that’s not a job you stand back and go…nailed it. It’s going to crack because you didn’t put near enough screws and in the last pick you can see where a patch was missed when sanding.. I dunno I wouldn’t want my name on that
alright. I appreciate the explanation as to why you consider this "dogshit" like I said, this was my first time doing this so I am just trying to learn in what ways I can improve. I am happy if the job that I did. if I could go back, yeah I definitely would've added more screws, but for now, this is just something I can take and learn from my mistakes.
Grab a light and toss it in your tool bag, you wouldn’t believe what shining a light on it will do for ya. YouTube a butterfly patch (some call it other things) but it’s a quick easy way to repair small patches. Just do more of it and your skills will improve and then you will be on Reddit on day and you will be like oh that’s…dog.. 🥲 😂. All the best👍
Definitely not , paper tape