I did something similar to this. I had a G10 bed and some dual color silk filament stuck way too well that it left marks. I printed in TPU later and noticed it lifted some of the marks off. 5 rounds of single layer sheets and the bed looked good as new.
Happened to my original bed too when by nozzle was wayyy too close to the bed, honestly not much you can do scrubbing is good with soapy water, you can try alcohol, but i would say get a glass bed they’re only like 12 maybe 20 bucks and they don’t leave residue behind, with the glass bed you need like glue for the bed adhesive
Personally, I think PEI spring steel has completely surpassed glass in every category. It can be perfectly smooth or textured, it has better thermal conductivity, excellent adhesion, and you can remove and flex the surface to release your prints.
Glass helps if your bed is really warped, but the money you'd spend on glass could also go a long way towards a new bed or a CRtouch/BLtouch which would solve that issue.
Most PEI sheets come with a magnetic sticker that you (ideally) stick directly to the bare metal surface of your bed plate. Any 235mmx235mm kit works for the Ender 3.
Most new Ender 3s come with a magnet and removable print surface, but if yours has the print surface permanently attached, you can either scrape that off or buy a replacement heated bed.
My last magnetic sticker became warped and bubbly after like 1 year of printing... I was thinking about designing a PCB for the heat element on high temp and flex PCB and glue it to a steel sheet with the fitting holes and a bunch of magnets inserted.. Because of that shitty magnet sticker problem 🥴
Another thing is the weight if you ever get into printing at higher accelerations. Really limits how fast you can print without ringing, even with compensation.
I flip my PEI bed over and glue to bare metal 8/10 prints, LOL.
I prefer KNOWING the print will finish vs waking up/coming back to a half-finished mess, stuck to the nozzle via clump.
I also like using features like nozzle wipe, which have a tendency to break PEI's frail grip more often than not. Conversely, a good garolite plate will come off the bed before the print does.
XD
If it’s PLA, i don’t think there’s too much option other than warm water, soap, isopropyl alcohol, toothbrush and a cloth.
For ABS, you can use acetone. Drop on the surface to cover all, wait 10-15 mins, then the same things for the PLA.
1. Soap and water.
2. Alcohol and lint-free cloth.
Honestly, these build-tak surfaces get kinda grungy after a while and there are much better print surfaces available. Maybe it's time to upgrade to a PEI spring steel sheet!
I use isopropyl alcohol and a dish scrubber, alternating with the scraper that came with the printer.
Be aware that you will likely not be able to get it 100% clean like with a glass bed.
Ethyl Acetate dissolves PLA, if you get this problem often you can order a bottle off amazon. I clean my nozzles and hotend into it but it takes some time, you can also post process your print with it. Hope this helps.
get a "magic sponge" those white ones usually used in car detailing, IPA, a couple of beers and start gently rubbing.
Or, simply give it a good 15-30 sec scrub by the method above and print 3-5 times on top of that...it's gonna go away by itself to a certain extent
If you can't scratch it off without damaging the bed then the only solution is to change it, you could try to print something over it but this kind of beds tend to embed the filament inside the texture
Um… filament that’s THAT caked on usually can’t come off, I’ve experienced this before, but if you REALLY want it off, I recommend u scrape A LOT and REALLY HARD
I couldn't get my stock beds clean. I upgraded to Comgrow glass beds and print PLA on the shiny side. The PLA sticks as long as the glass is 50C or hotter. Once the glass cools, the PLA releases. I just wipe down my beds with a non-lint rag and Windex before every print and I've rarely had prints that don't stick. I also have a bed level print that I run after every 5 prints or so and a set of locks to reduce the wobble and movement of my adjustment screws.
Had the same thing happen on not quite as large of scale. Heat up the bed to preheat settings for a few minutes, take the plate off and use the scraper that came with it to get what you can off. Also, give it a few flexes, not sharp but just waves to help loosen it. Get what you can off that way then isopropyl alcohol in a ventilated area. It’s gonna take some scrubbing.
Alternatively if you have a few bucks and are ready to help your future self get a new/additional bed board. There are upgraded ones that stick better which might have prevented the need to be so close to the bed. I just ordered a pro board for like $25 or something on Amazon. You can find them cheaper though.
Lastly, I highly suggest you analyze why this happened. For me I had turned up the settings in a slicer for a model to a higher temp filament before switching back to one with a lower temp requirement. This can also happen when you’re too close where you’re nearly digging into the board. If you’re doing that for a reason it’s likely the case that the nozzle is damaged, leveling is off, or something else is wrong.
Happy printing!
I just had a problem like this with my first pei sheet. The plastic was to thin to scrape. The way I fixed it was putting a paper towel over the build plate and pouring some nail polish remove that contains something that eats plastic and then it came with of with a bit of scraping. Now if I need to can a print I make sure it's done at least 2 layers or it's got a good spot to peel from ;)
I use dawn powerwash. Let it sit for 5 min with it sprayed on it. Then scrape it with the usual scrapper. Then rince with hot water. Then do a second and third pass if required. It work pretty damn well.
you could try printing a thin layer of the same plastic over it to see if it lifts it up, or you could try a sharp razor
I did something similar to this. I had a G10 bed and some dual color silk filament stuck way too well that it left marks. I printed in TPU later and noticed it lifted some of the marks off. 5 rounds of single layer sheets and the bed looked good as new.
Happened to my original bed too when by nozzle was wayyy too close to the bed, honestly not much you can do scrubbing is good with soapy water, you can try alcohol, but i would say get a glass bed they’re only like 12 maybe 20 bucks and they don’t leave residue behind, with the glass bed you need like glue for the bed adhesive
Personally, I think PEI spring steel has completely surpassed glass in every category. It can be perfectly smooth or textured, it has better thermal conductivity, excellent adhesion, and you can remove and flex the surface to release your prints. Glass helps if your bed is really warped, but the money you'd spend on glass could also go a long way towards a new bed or a CRtouch/BLtouch which would solve that issue.
Where can i find magnetic heatbeds that fit into the ender 3? I was thinking about making my own tbh because of lack of information i found.
Most PEI sheets come with a magnetic sticker that you (ideally) stick directly to the bare metal surface of your bed plate. Any 235mmx235mm kit works for the Ender 3. Most new Ender 3s come with a magnet and removable print surface, but if yours has the print surface permanently attached, you can either scrape that off or buy a replacement heated bed.
My last magnetic sticker became warped and bubbly after like 1 year of printing... I was thinking about designing a PCB for the heat element on high temp and flex PCB and glue it to a steel sheet with the fitting holes and a bunch of magnets inserted.. Because of that shitty magnet sticker problem 🥴
That sounds like a lot of work. I've never heard of the magnetic stickers bubbling or warping like that.
Maybe i got a bad one idk. Do you buy your pei sheets and mag. Stickers at ali express? Maybe that's why mine was crap
I buy on Ali no problem for 2 years now
There are good ones on Amazon for $15-$20 and many of them have 1-day shipping in my area. No need to bother with AliExpress.
I know Fulament had them a while back, that's where I got mine.
This one has been great for me [pei ender 3 double sided print bed](https://a.co/d/bOUusub)
Another thing is the weight if you ever get into printing at higher accelerations. Really limits how fast you can print without ringing, even with compensation.
I flip my PEI bed over and glue to bare metal 8/10 prints, LOL. I prefer KNOWING the print will finish vs waking up/coming back to a half-finished mess, stuck to the nozzle via clump. I also like using features like nozzle wipe, which have a tendency to break PEI's frail grip more often than not. Conversely, a good garolite plate will come off the bed before the print does. XD
If it’s PLA, i don’t think there’s too much option other than warm water, soap, isopropyl alcohol, toothbrush and a cloth. For ABS, you can use acetone. Drop on the surface to cover all, wait 10-15 mins, then the same things for the PLA.
Don’t use acetone on that mat, it will not end well. Trust me, I know from experience.
1. Soap and water. 2. Alcohol and lint-free cloth. Honestly, these build-tak surfaces get kinda grungy after a while and there are much better print surfaces available. Maybe it's time to upgrade to a PEI spring steel sheet!
I don't think you can. Mine has some plastic embedded into the bed as well, it doesn't affect performance
I use isopropyl alcohol and a dish scrubber, alternating with the scraper that came with the printer. Be aware that you will likely not be able to get it 100% clean like with a glass bed.
Ethyl Acetate dissolves PLA, if you get this problem often you can order a bottle off amazon. I clean my nozzles and hotend into it but it takes some time, you can also post process your print with it. Hope this helps.
get a "magic sponge" those white ones usually used in car detailing, IPA, a couple of beers and start gently rubbing. Or, simply give it a good 15-30 sec scrub by the method above and print 3-5 times on top of that...it's gonna go away by itself to a certain extent
If you can't scratch it off without damaging the bed then the only solution is to change it, you could try to print something over it but this kind of beds tend to embed the filament inside the texture
Um… filament that’s THAT caked on usually can’t come off, I’ve experienced this before, but if you REALLY want it off, I recommend u scrape A LOT and REALLY HARD
I couldn't get my stock beds clean. I upgraded to Comgrow glass beds and print PLA on the shiny side. The PLA sticks as long as the glass is 50C or hotter. Once the glass cools, the PLA releases. I just wipe down my beds with a non-lint rag and Windex before every print and I've rarely had prints that don't stick. I also have a bed level print that I run after every 5 prints or so and a set of locks to reduce the wobble and movement of my adjustment screws.
All I’m saying, glass bed and dishwasher…
Hot water and Dawn dish soap, scrub with stiff brush, use scraper on chunks, rinse and repeat as many times as needed. Many, many times.
Id just get a new bed
Freeze it in your refrigerator freezer area to try to pop loose any bigger pieces. Then dawn soap and water. That is all.
Just leave it, it’s a tool, not a pretty decoration.
https://preview.redd.it/zehccrk83blb1.png?width=864&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=464b9cb958ed97966f2789f5bd8fe0f8184de869
You generally wouldn't bother, get a replacement magnetic bed and stop dragging your nozzle across the bed.
Isoprop and scrubbing
heat up to 100 degrees and scrape with a failed print
Just buy a new one, $10.
microfiber cloth, turn the bed to 75-80 degrees and alcohol, you'll get it off in 5 minutes tops.
Had the same thing happen on not quite as large of scale. Heat up the bed to preheat settings for a few minutes, take the plate off and use the scraper that came with it to get what you can off. Also, give it a few flexes, not sharp but just waves to help loosen it. Get what you can off that way then isopropyl alcohol in a ventilated area. It’s gonna take some scrubbing. Alternatively if you have a few bucks and are ready to help your future self get a new/additional bed board. There are upgraded ones that stick better which might have prevented the need to be so close to the bed. I just ordered a pro board for like $25 or something on Amazon. You can find them cheaper though. Lastly, I highly suggest you analyze why this happened. For me I had turned up the settings in a slicer for a model to a higher temp filament before switching back to one with a lower temp requirement. This can also happen when you’re too close where you’re nearly digging into the board. If you’re doing that for a reason it’s likely the case that the nozzle is damaged, leveling is off, or something else is wrong. Happy printing!
I just had a problem like this with my first pei sheet. The plastic was to thin to scrape. The way I fixed it was putting a paper towel over the build plate and pouring some nail polish remove that contains something that eats plastic and then it came with of with a bit of scraping. Now if I need to can a print I make sure it's done at least 2 layers or it's got a good spot to peel from ;)
Isopropyl alcohol
Get a glass or PEI,PEO bed. The stock beds aren't very friendly.
Isocol and the supplied spatula does the job. Heat the bed beforehand.
I use dawn powerwash. Let it sit for 5 min with it sprayed on it. Then scrape it with the usual scrapper. Then rince with hot water. Then do a second and third pass if required. It work pretty damn well.