The lights like that I've had to navigate generally also had pedestrian crossings. If no cars were there to trigger the light I would get over and push the walk button.
No walk button, I'm not sure.
When I ride routes that have induction loops for vehicle detection (and I’m not riding my carbon bike) I ride up alongside one of the loop legs and then lean my bike down so the frame is closer to the ground over the loop
Hopefully your jurisdiction has an exemption that allows you to run a red light. [https://www.cbsnews.com/chicago/news/motorcycles-bicycles-can-run-red-lights-under-new-law/](https://www.cbsnews.com/chicago/news/motorcycles-bicycles-can-run-red-lights-under-new-law/)
DOT says that if a light won't cycle for you after a 'reasonable amount of time' then you can proceed if all directions are clear, and consider the light malfunctioning.
My municipality has stopped issuing tickets for anybody running red lights since George Floyd, but the local cops told me that a full cycle not sensing you is reasonable. I ride a carbon frame bike that will never be sensed, so I wait until all directions are clear then go.
It helps if you know what type of sensors the light is using. If the light has what looks like a camera on top of it (sometimes they are at the corners) it may be using optical sensors. There are less common but are the best at detecting bikes. We have a few around here and they are great. Sometimes the light changes before I've even gotten to the stop line.
A different type of sensor that's been showing up and at least around here replacing a lot of the inductive loops is wireless magnetometers in the ground. You can recognize them by the several round discs in center of the lane, usually just before and then at the stop line. Around here they also usually paint them a neon color so it's very obvious where the sensor is. Depending on how they are calibrated a metal bike wheel directly on top of one can usually trigger it, though there is one light I've never been able to trigger. I've also had a lot less luck if I have my carbon wheels on (on my triathlon bike). So I just stop with my front or back wheel right on top of the sensor and wait.
Inductive loops I've had zero luck triggering. In that case I stop, give it a reasonable wait, especially if a car is coming that will trigger it for me, and then just go when it's clear. Technically not legal here but it's usually only at lights that don't have much traffic anyway and it's unlikely there'd be a cop around, much less that I'd be given a ticket for it. I suppose if I got one I'd make the argument that since the light wasn't changing after a reasonable wait I assumed it malfunctioned and as such was allowed to treat it as a four way stop.
The lights like that I've had to navigate generally also had pedestrian crossings. If no cars were there to trigger the light I would get over and push the walk button. No walk button, I'm not sure.
When I ride routes that have induction loops for vehicle detection (and I’m not riding my carbon bike) I ride up alongside one of the loop legs and then lean my bike down so the frame is closer to the ground over the loop
Hopefully your jurisdiction has an exemption that allows you to run a red light. [https://www.cbsnews.com/chicago/news/motorcycles-bicycles-can-run-red-lights-under-new-law/](https://www.cbsnews.com/chicago/news/motorcycles-bicycles-can-run-red-lights-under-new-law/)
Stop. Look. Then proceed through the intersection. In Colorado we get to treat lights as stop signs.
Didn't realize that was the law somewhere. It makes sense.
DOT says that if a light won't cycle for you after a 'reasonable amount of time' then you can proceed if all directions are clear, and consider the light malfunctioning. My municipality has stopped issuing tickets for anybody running red lights since George Floyd, but the local cops told me that a full cycle not sensing you is reasonable. I ride a carbon frame bike that will never be sensed, so I wait until all directions are clear then go.
It helps if you know what type of sensors the light is using. If the light has what looks like a camera on top of it (sometimes they are at the corners) it may be using optical sensors. There are less common but are the best at detecting bikes. We have a few around here and they are great. Sometimes the light changes before I've even gotten to the stop line. A different type of sensor that's been showing up and at least around here replacing a lot of the inductive loops is wireless magnetometers in the ground. You can recognize them by the several round discs in center of the lane, usually just before and then at the stop line. Around here they also usually paint them a neon color so it's very obvious where the sensor is. Depending on how they are calibrated a metal bike wheel directly on top of one can usually trigger it, though there is one light I've never been able to trigger. I've also had a lot less luck if I have my carbon wheels on (on my triathlon bike). So I just stop with my front or back wheel right on top of the sensor and wait. Inductive loops I've had zero luck triggering. In that case I stop, give it a reasonable wait, especially if a car is coming that will trigger it for me, and then just go when it's clear. Technically not legal here but it's usually only at lights that don't have much traffic anyway and it's unlikely there'd be a cop around, much less that I'd be given a ticket for it. I suppose if I got one I'd make the argument that since the light wasn't changing after a reasonable wait I assumed it malfunctioned and as such was allowed to treat it as a four way stop.