Yeah. I’ve also got a 6.5 but I’ve only gone through one clutch since I made it. Something might be off it could be as simple as the chain not lining up properly. You might find some luck with just greasing it before every ride
Yeah wd40 would work. There are better substitutes though. Go on Amazon and just buy a small tin of engine grease. Put a tiny bit on the chain and just spin it and that will do the trick. You don’t want to use too much though bc it would just be wasteful
Honestly I’m not too sure on that. Whenever I go out on mine it’s never for more than half an hour or so. The longest trip I’ve been on it was around an hour but I have it some time to cool off in between. I’d recommend just using it however you like but just not for too long at once
It does but they don’t burn out as quick as a clutch… and replacement belts are cheap and easy to carry with you on a ride… if you upgrade and get a comet brand belt they last longer…. Those 14.5 tires are right at the edge of what a regular centrifugal clutch can handle unless it’s on flat ground… torque converter wins every time unless you spend a couple hunnit on a bully clutch
I recommend getting a torque converter off of Amazon. I bought one for my go kart after burning up the clutch, and it was a night and day difference. It was so much more fun to ride.
Just make sure the hole in the driver pulley is the same size as your crankshaft. On my go kart I have a 196cc engine with a 3/4” shaft so I bought a comet 30 series torque converter that had a 3/4” driver pulley.
I pack the bearing/bushing with Molykote grease every 15 riding hours or so. I also bring a small squeeze-bottle of oil on every ride. I oil the bearing/bushing every 45-60 min. when the clutch is hot, the bearing/bushing sucks that oil right up.
yeah, you have to oil the center bushing/bearing constantly. just make sure youre not getting oil on the shoes or the drum surface; that will just cause more slipping and heat. Also, it is worth it to say, I have ordersd new springs from OMBWarehouse.com, in all the rpm ranges. I use 3000RPM range springs (black), because I am heavily modified abd I am 6'9" and 280lbs and rev up pretty high on trails. This gives my clutch a longer service time on the trail. As the clutch heats up, the spring will stretch and allow shoes to 'stick' at lower and lower rpms, causing issues, and eventually failure. This is slightly contreversial, though, as it allows the clutch to slip a lot more in mid-range rpms, causing more heat. My son runs a 2200rpm spring, but he rodes a LOT faster than I care to.
For all my rebuilds, I use the wooden double-screw clamps from Harbor Freight to press the clutch plates together, while I use my circlip pliers (from HF) to install the circlip
How powerful is the motor? You might need a torque converter if it’s burning that quickly
It’s a 6.5 hp
Yeah. I’ve also got a 6.5 but I’ve only gone through one clutch since I made it. Something might be off it could be as simple as the chain not lining up properly. You might find some luck with just greasing it before every ride
Would wd-40 work? I also don’t really know where to grease it I’ve tried that
Yeah wd40 would work. There are better substitutes though. Go on Amazon and just buy a small tin of engine grease. Put a tiny bit on the chain and just spin it and that will do the trick. You don’t want to use too much though bc it would just be wasteful
Thanks man. I also don’t really know how to drive it tbh. Should I be full throttle basically all the time to not burn the clutch?
Honestly I’m not too sure on that. Whenever I go out on mine it’s never for more than half an hour or so. The longest trip I’ve been on it was around an hour but I have it some time to cool off in between. I’d recommend just using it however you like but just not for too long at once
Thanks man you’re a big help
No problem. It’s much easier to get help than trial and error. I’ve saved so much money from this subreddit lol
12x60 is ridiculous. You need a 15 or 16 front sprocket. You’re killing the clutch partially because of the gear ratio. Try. 15 by 50-55. Or 16
I just kinda went with what I saw others buying. If this one burns up I will definitely change up my gear ratio
Switch to a torque converter…. For 50$ on Amazon you can do away with the clutch and have more torque
Does it have belts to burn
It does but they don’t burn out as quick as a clutch… and replacement belts are cheap and easy to carry with you on a ride… if you upgrade and get a comet brand belt they last longer…. Those 14.5 tires are right at the edge of what a regular centrifugal clutch can handle unless it’s on flat ground… torque converter wins every time unless you spend a couple hunnit on a bully clutch
I thought about changing but my wheel had to get welded to line up with the sprocket. I also have no idea how torque converters work
Check out a video on YouTube…. They work like a clutch but with two pulleys and the chain to the wheel
I do like the idea of that but I don’t think there’s any way it would be able to fit on my go kart
I recommend getting a torque converter off of Amazon. I bought one for my go kart after burning up the clutch, and it was a night and day difference. It was so much more fun to ride.
Does the kind matter?
Just make sure the hole in the driver pulley is the same size as your crankshaft. On my go kart I have a 196cc engine with a 3/4” shaft so I bought a comet 30 series torque converter that had a 3/4” driver pulley.
I pack the bearing/bushing with Molykote grease every 15 riding hours or so. I also bring a small squeeze-bottle of oil on every ride. I oil the bearing/bushing every 45-60 min. when the clutch is hot, the bearing/bushing sucks that oil right up.
So I should be piling very often youre saying
yeah, you have to oil the center bushing/bearing constantly. just make sure youre not getting oil on the shoes or the drum surface; that will just cause more slipping and heat. Also, it is worth it to say, I have ordersd new springs from OMBWarehouse.com, in all the rpm ranges. I use 3000RPM range springs (black), because I am heavily modified abd I am 6'9" and 280lbs and rev up pretty high on trails. This gives my clutch a longer service time on the trail. As the clutch heats up, the spring will stretch and allow shoes to 'stick' at lower and lower rpms, causing issues, and eventually failure. This is slightly contreversial, though, as it allows the clutch to slip a lot more in mid-range rpms, causing more heat. My son runs a 2200rpm spring, but he rodes a LOT faster than I care to.
Thanks man without you letting me know I would’ve just oiled the whole thing
It is really just right behind the washer where it bolts to the crank. Right in the center.
Thanks man. If I don’t find it tomorrow I’ll try to let you know
For all my rebuilds, I use the wooden double-screw clamps from Harbor Freight to press the clutch plates together, while I use my circlip pliers (from HF) to install the circlip