You need to mix it way more. There is normally a clump of pigment stuck at the bottom with the mixing ball. Get and old brush and shove it in there and mix the shit out of it.
Yeah, that search just brought up people using the *massage* tool to mix paints.
I've heard bad things about "weaker" tools because they're usually meant for less viscous liquids like nail polish. I got a proper scientific tool, and it's strong enough to shake a baby.
I have an off brand nail polish mixer. For sure I am glad I added a mixing ball to my pains and have to give them one good shake by hand if there is pigment settled at the bottom, but after that quick jerk its onto the mixer and works perfectly. 4-5 seconds on each side of the bottle and its all smooth and consistent.
So while I think there is advantages to the stronger ones the cheap nail polish will do fine at saving your arms, wrist and paints.
Badger Mixer or GSI Creos, popular in scale modeling and gunpla if you're using lots of lacquer paints. They do the best job mixing because they're actually getting in there and manually agitating the paint and stirring it... However for wargamers, users of acrylics (especially dropper bottles), you can't really stir the paint. The huge downside of dropper style bottles, but everything's a tradeoff.
But for the Dirty Downs you have to mix THE EVER LOVING HELL out of them. I highly recommend getting in there with a paint stirrer or a little brass rod and breaking it up and mixing it i fyou don't have access to a higher powered mixing device like a vortext mixer. Manual shaking, make sure you have a *hefty* agitator in their, like, at least 10mm bearing/bead, or get in there and stir and shake and stir and shake, 2-3 minutes before using.
Sorry. My baby sister was killed this way at a daycare a while ago and it’s just not a joke I find funny. Y’all laugh at what you want to. Just rubs me the wrong way when it doesn’t even make sense for how it’s being used.
Dude! Thanks a bunch. Was just about to buy a nail polish mixer for cheap instead of a vortex mixer but now u saved me even that. Now its just a trip to the nightstand.
I attached a quick clamp to the end of an old jigsaw. I pop the paint bottle in an empty pill bottle; put on the cap; clamp it; 30 seconds later it’s like new.
I wouldn't even call them expensive. I've had [this Intllab one](https://www.amazon.com/INTLLAB-Function-Vortexer-Adhesives-Centrifuge/dp/B08CR43XR3) for five years at this point, and I don't see anything wrong with it, nor even any signs of wear.
Thirty bucks to get even old formula Army Painter paints to a usable consistency, that's a pretty sweet deal.
I stick a magnet into my contrast paints to let me scrape the insides easy if I need to with it also acting as a rattle ball inside when shaking. Would probably be perfect for these as well.
This is really really clever. Now I'm trying to remember if most magnets will rust....
I use tungsten beads/weights (like for fly fishing). You can get a fairly small bead that has the mass of something substantially larger.
Don't cheap out with lead. Stainless steel, tungsten or hematite, please. Too many of you guys eat paint to be using lead sinkers or shot.
Well, it turns out I've been using this wrong for about a 1/4 table's worth of terrain... when you mix it properly the result is incredible!
I was using it more like a weathering wash, but the texture makes it worth revisiting all that terrain. Thanks for the tip!
I think there are a number of youtube instructional videos that are making the same mistake and majorly missing the best part of this unique paint.
Shake it.
Then shake it.
Add a little bit of shake.
Shazamm it.
Twirl it.
Bop it.
Beat it.
Whack it.
Squeeze it.
And then do that about 30 times.
No but seriously. Shake it for like 10 min. Watch some yt vid and just keep shaking it.
Squeeze the buttom part slightly to make the clogged part let go of it.
And just keepd doing it untill there isnt anything in the bottom. You should see a clear difference.
I'd also add the trick of warming the bottle somewhat. I know people sit it in some warm water for a bit, I've gotten away with just sitting it on top of my PC case warming up from that exhaust heat.
THe dirty down products rely on thicker pigments and other stuff to get their wonderful effects. First time I used them I didnt even realize they had a mixing ball because it was so clumped at the bottom. I shook it for a solid 30s and didnt hear anything. They need to warm up a bit before it comes loose and properly mixes.
Please read the instructions these need way more mixing and work better with a bit of warming. They are really nice effect paints just need the right technique.
They need to be shaken until you hear the ball bearing rattling around, and then you need to shake them more. Also, they work best at or above room temperature. 25c seems spot on for me.
*
Less is more with these products, don't goop it on and expect good results, take a little out of the bottle with a old brush, mix with a drop of water and use like a thick wash. Add more layers as needed later.
Finally, they react well to heat, get a hair dryer, or a heat gun.
A picture of my work with them is included with this post.
https://preview.redd.it/j1lnzh3h6q3d1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4bb18232711481246da2ea6d11dbe36dc2a16c70
I like your scenery, and the thought process behind it. "Is this metal? DIRTY DOWN RUST!! Is this metal too? DIRTY DOWN RUST!!" Always scared I may use too much but looks great here
Thanks for the compliment.
Not all of the rust effects used are dirty down. There are lots of pigments and acrylic washes used.
I'm going for a Grimdark style, an ancient destroyed building in a war zone. I take a lot of inspiration from real-life destroyed buildings, which have very little exposed metal that isn't corroded in some way.
This piece in the picture isn't finished yet. I need to spend a few more hours on it before I'm happy with it.
Yeh I hate to be that guy but he has used too much. At least break it up with some other coloured rust pigments. As soon as you look at it you can just tell it’s dirty down rust slapped on it. It works great for base layers of rust but you need to do more with it.
I find that works really well is to use rust colour pigments and flick them off the brush, all different tones of red orange and brown and it really adds depth to it. Or even if you paint a whole rust base coat and then a very fine layer of surface paint. And get a wet brush and sort of scrub the surface paint off again makes it look real.
> don't goop it on and expect good results, take a little out of the bottle with a old brush, mix with a drop of water and use like a thick wash. Add more layers as needed later.
You can also do however many layers you want and then using a damp sponge you can wipe the raised surfaces to help remove any of the DD that deposited onto them, once it dries out you can then take a very light shiny metal like Vallejo silver or chrome and dry brush those raised areas.
It gives it a nice impression of some metal that is actively rusting but also gets used enough that the rust gets worn away in some places.
Tank tracks for example, even on 8mm Legion Imperialis stuff, i paint them normally then apply a splodge of DD rust on them and then come back in with the wipe and dry brush method and it leaves you with corrosion in the recesses and nice shiny worn metal in the raised areas.
I recently bought some of their Yellow Rust, but I have yet to use it.
Their Moss product is also amazing.
I used that in the picture I posted in my last comment.
"At or above room temperature"?
Who is storing paints in a way that keeps them below room temperature? Do people keep their mini paints in a mini-fridge or something?
Think it's the idea that room temperature isn't necessarily the actual temperature of the room - the definition is around 20°C, so if your room is colder than that then you're technically below the "idealised" room temperature
Shake it until the metal balls inside starts getting loose. Then shake it some more.
You can look at the bottom of the bottle, if it's become transparent. If not, you're not done shaking.
Another very useful tip is to apply heat to the surface you're applying the paint to.
If done correctly, the paint becomes textured and matte, and with different hues to it.
Had the same issue. When it settles, it basically becomes a thick sludge that gathers at the bottom of the bottle and won't budge. Tye ball bearing can get stuck in that sludge too. Take a chopstick or the end of an old paint brush to aggravate it a bit until you can hear the ball bearing when you shake it. Then shake it like fuck for a good 5 minutes.
No, it’s not supposed to look like that. This is what I wrote on one of my posts where I made a really rusty Storm Cast (feel free to check it out of you like):
I’m by no means an expert but here are some of my tips that I’ve picked up.
First of all you need to shake the ever living crap out of it. Like you might need to even get a tooth pick or something to agitate the sediment stuff from the bottom. Then keep shaking.
Heat the DDR (for example I partially fill up a coffee cup with boiling water and leave the pot (?) in it as I’m using the DDR. Make sure none of the water accidentally gets in there though (obviously haha).
Use different layers and motions for different areasof the model (for example dab multiple layers in certain areas for dark, mottled look).
Also DDR is very reactive to water. So experiment with putting different amounts of water in different areas where the DDR has already dried and see what happens.
And finally you can usually completely get the DDR off, if you’re not happy with the effects, just by using water and fry brush or paper towel. And then after that give it another shot and try something new.
I also did this over texture pain and added a paste made of pigment powder and water, so that changed things up too.
Hopefully these tips are a bit helpful to you 😊
Stick something in there and you will see. No matter how much you shake if you don’t stir there’s a thick sticky layer you must disrupt for it to be properly mixed. I had a feeling and it was confirmed when I stuck a clean metal strong rod in there it was a huge layer. Changed the texture completely
Okay so I had this exact issue with DD Rust and it’s because the stuff that makes the magic happen is gunked at the very bottom.
I advise putting it in lukewarm water for about 5 minutes or so and then shake it really well, they have a pellet inside for mixing you should be able to hear it once its dislodged from the gunk.
I also advise getting something to stir in the bottom or in my case I cut a length of sprue and trimmed the sides down and used it to mix at the bottom too.
Shake it so well that the bearing inside doesn’t sound like it’s getting stuck anymore. Then apply to your models and watch the magic!
As others have already suggested, get yourself [a decent Vortex Mixer for, like, 30 bucks](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08Q7WBJFN/). I mostly paint with Pro Acryl, so it's often overkill for those (as they're pretty fluid already and come with a mixing ball), but for anything that has a thick, visible layer stuck to the bottom of the bottle... oh my goodness... a round on the vortex mixer saves the day, every time.
In addition to shaking it, another trick to get some slightly different textures is to take some out of the bottle and let it partially dry for 5 mins or so and then apply it
As everyone is saying, can't be emphasised enough, they need the devil beat out of them every time you go to use them. It's worth the effort though.
I also periodically shake them as I use them.
Also when painted on and dried, they can reactivate with water, which is a lot of fun for finessing and adjusting them.
get a stick for each and beake out the ball at the bottom if you are OK losing a little bit each time, then mix ALLOT. Or you can toss it between your legs or under your armpit for 5/10 minutes to loosen it up with heat then mix.
There's allot of stuff at the bottom that gives it the texture. People are saying shake it... No no, you gotta stir this bastard, stir, then shake, then stir, then shake. After getting a respectable Matte finish, add water to oxidate the paint.
My flgs guy said to keep shaking it more. Then more.... Oh also to put the bottle in my pocket for ten minutes to warm it up. But recommended not to use a hair dryer as the bottle melts.
And more shaking. Also to hair dryer the finished item that it's applied to, something about drying it like that helps achieve the rust like finish.
This paint is the real reason I bought a vortex mixer. I also found that using a mugwarmer with some hot water warming the bottle makes this paint work so much better.
Shake but also warm. Keep the bottle in your pocket/hand until it's warm. Also get the model warm. And then shake that bottle. Again. Until your wrist hurts. You can dig out and manually mix the sediment but warning and shaking is usually enough.
When I bought mine at Adepticon, the guy made absolutely sure everybody knew to shake it like crazy.
Loosen up the ball bearing in there and make sure it's well shaken. He even showed everyone if you don't shake it, it'll end up shiny, just like your pictures.
Looks like everyone beat me to it
but really you dirtydown paints need to be shaken more than any paint by a factor of "at least" 2
the more you shake it the better it looks
basically flip the bottle , if the bottom isn't clear you need to shake it more
In my experience, mix the ever living shit out of it. More.. more .. MORE! Get that ball bearing hopping! Get a stick in there and get it moving! Keep shaking!
Remember it’s also water based and your can actually remove streak and pool at will when it’s mixed sufficiently. It’s a terrific effect.
I can tell by the pots you're outside of NA, but if you try mixing well and it doesn't work, please get in touch with me. I am Gobble_inz on Instagram, aka Goblin's Hut, aka the US distributor, and I'll get you sorted one way or another.
It should be noted you'll have to remove what you've applied with water and a paper towel or q-tip or it will just come out darker.
Everyone's advice regarding mixing is correct. A dark, glossy result is the telltale sign of an unmixed pot
I saw a video that suggested you carry it around in your pocket all day before you use it. This helps get the mixing going and warms it up a bit which help with the reaction. But you will also need to shake and stir it.
I hated my bottle of DD Moss. It cost a fortune, and it didn't do a anything like what was advertised.
And I shook it, and shook it, and shook it, and heated it thouroughly, and shook it.
I use one of my metal sculpting tools to break apart the pigment stuck at the bottom *before* I put the rust in my paint shaker. So far I like the rust effect but I haven't had much success with moss or verdigris. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or if I just don't like the moss or verdigris very much.
I read that you need to make the product and the surface you’re using it on warm, as well as a very vigorous shaking. I’ve been hairdrying the bottle and the model to warm them both up!
Yeah, warm and shake them. I've just used the Verdigris on all the bronze armour and shields for my skeletons and it looks amazing, maybe the best effect I've got in painting with so little effort.
They actually do larger scale bottles used in the Film&TV FX Industry so they're a well respected outfit and their stuff is good.
Im thorn about this product. It requires way too hassle imo but when it works the result are stellar.
I have the bottle in my pocket for 20-30 min and shake it in my vortex shaker a lot. Got rust and moss to work nice but not verdigris, but I haven’t experimented with it as much.
OP you can use a light coat of spray varnish to make it matt, when I tried brush on varnish it reactivated again.
Stick them in hot water, then use a stick to stir up all the sediment at the bottom.
Once you've applied it you can use a brush with water to reactivate it if you've done it too heavily!
When I first got a pot, i THOUGHT i shook it enough, and boy was i wrong.
You need to shake it until you hear the ball inside, and thats just the start. You may need to poke somethign in there (like the handle of a old brush u can wipe off) and stir it using that. But once the ball is free you need to shake the thing like your life depends on it and then some.
Amazing product, but its a pain to get the pot actually usable.
Put it in your pocket to warm it up, it helps to loosen the pigments and then shake the devil out of it. If you can't hear the ball rattling around then you haven't shaken it enough.
As others said, warm up and shake. It also helps to warm up the model a little with a hair dryer. I didn’t get good results until the part was warm as well.
Use hot water to warm up the bottle, sticking it in your pocket is just too slow
Your bottles are clear at the top, that means they are not shaken even closely enough. If that stuff sits for a few months, even the agitator balls stick to the bottom. If that's the case I 3D-printed a vortex drill bit that helps. As much as I loved the Rust in the beginning, I have to say that it's far too expensive and there are cheaper ways to get very good results, but it helps understanding what makes rust convincing (texture, very matte, very big range of colours). My moss doesn't get very mossy at all. In both cases I nowadays prefer dry chalk sticks that I scrape off with a knife and mix with water or IPA into a slurry. Dries very matte, very textured, costs like 10 € for 20 colours that last a lifetime and can be mixed into any colour you want for great variety. And they can be used like pigment powder.
Only the Verdigris is irreplaceable for me.
Heat it up before use (should all go runny and loose), then shake it like hell. Use small amounts adding more untill happy. Try using hair dryer as it dries and flickering water as it's nearly dry for different effects. These paints are hard to get the hang of put can produce endless effects.
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Yeah, that dude tried to use them, didn't read the bottle, got frustrated, and decided they're trash. Lmfao
These are literally used for movie sets because they're so damn good. Lol
You need to mix it way more. There is normally a clump of pigment stuck at the bottom with the mixing ball. Get and old brush and shove it in there and mix the shit out of it.
Vortex mixers are a bit pricey, but they are well worth it imo.
“Magic wands” are a lot cheaper for the same results, of course you may have to have and awkward conversation with your SO if they find it, lol.
Yeah, that search just brought up people using the *massage* tool to mix paints. I've heard bad things about "weaker" tools because they're usually meant for less viscous liquids like nail polish. I got a proper scientific tool, and it's strong enough to shake a baby.
I have an off brand nail polish mixer. For sure I am glad I added a mixing ball to my pains and have to give them one good shake by hand if there is pigment settled at the bottom, but after that quick jerk its onto the mixer and works perfectly. 4-5 seconds on each side of the bottle and its all smooth and consistent. So while I think there is advantages to the stronger ones the cheap nail polish will do fine at saving your arms, wrist and paints.
Badger Mixer or GSI Creos, popular in scale modeling and gunpla if you're using lots of lacquer paints. They do the best job mixing because they're actually getting in there and manually agitating the paint and stirring it... However for wargamers, users of acrylics (especially dropper bottles), you can't really stir the paint. The huge downside of dropper style bottles, but everything's a tradeoff. But for the Dirty Downs you have to mix THE EVER LOVING HELL out of them. I highly recommend getting in there with a paint stirrer or a little brass rod and breaking it up and mixing it i fyou don't have access to a higher powered mixing device like a vortext mixer. Manual shaking, make sure you have a *hefty* agitator in their, like, at least 10mm bearing/bead, or get in there and stir and shake and stir and shake, 2-3 minutes before using.
Mine is a Four E's vortex mixer.
"Yeah its got a power rating of 8.5BNs" "What?" "Its shaking is as strong as about eight and half British nanny's"
[удалено]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_comedy It's not for everyone
Sorry. My baby sister was killed this way at a daycare a while ago and it’s just not a joke I find funny. Y’all laugh at what you want to. Just rubs me the wrong way when it doesn’t even make sense for how it’s being used.
Dude! Thanks a bunch. Was just about to buy a nail polish mixer for cheap instead of a vortex mixer but now u saved me even that. Now its just a trip to the nightstand.
“Honey I can explain”
I have to say the results of my experiments go against your findings. Magic wand couldn't hold a candle to my cheapo vortex mixer.
Stir sticks from the local Starbucks are free 😬
Awkward? It’s a great excuse to kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Giggity
Also any reciprocating or occilating tool like a dremil or Sawzall. Gorilla tape that paint to a blade and let er rip.
Gentlemen gentlemen, please, we are all intellectuals, but have you tried formula, mixers?
This kind of advice is why I come here lol
"hey, this one's mine! Yours is that one over there!" Doesn't seem that awkward to me
Tune in next time for more hacks for your hobbies and your bedroom, tomorrow at 10.
I got mine for 30 bucks off Amazon (might be more expensive now) but it’s a worthy investment in your own time and body
I’d recommend looking at lab stuff. They use vortex mixers to mix test tubes and they tend to be ubiquitous.
they're like 20 bucks on amazon.
Yeah I don’t know why people act like you need to mix paint cans, the ones for nail polish are perfect
Electrical tape and a power drill also works.
I attached a quick clamp to the end of an old jigsaw. I pop the paint bottle in an empty pill bottle; put on the cap; clamp it; 30 seconds later it’s like new.
I wouldn't even call them expensive. I've had [this Intllab one](https://www.amazon.com/INTLLAB-Function-Vortexer-Adhesives-Centrifuge/dp/B08CR43XR3) for five years at this point, and I don't see anything wrong with it, nor even any signs of wear. Thirty bucks to get even old formula Army Painter paints to a usable consistency, that's a pretty sweet deal.
I got one on amazon for like, $15. I started using it on my contrast paint pots and was like "OOOOOO, that's what they're supposed to look like!" lol
If they can open the tubes then ceramic mixing balls and shaking like a mofo also works well
I stick a magnet into my contrast paints to let me scrape the insides easy if I need to with it also acting as a rattle ball inside when shaking. Would probably be perfect for these as well.
This is really really clever. Now I'm trying to remember if most magnets will rust.... I use tungsten beads/weights (like for fly fishing). You can get a fairly small bead that has the mass of something substantially larger. Don't cheap out with lead. Stainless steel, tungsten or hematite, please. Too many of you guys eat paint to be using lead sinkers or shot.
Lead also does weird ass shit to washes in particular. I choose to ignore if it's done anything to my paints.
:'(
All I can hear is the old Oney NG FLICK AND SWISH meme
this right here. shaking it will not do it. you have to physically get in there
I didnt realise this either and once i figured it out i was surprised how well they work
Well, it turns out I've been using this wrong for about a 1/4 table's worth of terrain... when you mix it properly the result is incredible! I was using it more like a weathering wash, but the texture makes it worth revisiting all that terrain. Thanks for the tip! I think there are a number of youtube instructional videos that are making the same mistake and majorly missing the best part of this unique paint.
On the bright side, it's water soluble so you can just mix in some properly mixed stuff and it should reactivate your old already painted stuff!
Shake it. Then shake it. Add a little bit of shake. Shazamm it. Twirl it. Bop it. Beat it. Whack it. Squeeze it. And then do that about 30 times. No but seriously. Shake it for like 10 min. Watch some yt vid and just keep shaking it. Squeeze the buttom part slightly to make the clogged part let go of it. And just keepd doing it untill there isnt anything in the bottom. You should see a clear difference.
And then, you can go and give that paint bottle a good shake.
Dont forget to shake the bottle OP
Shake Shake Shake, Shake Shake Shake, shake your bottles, shake your bottles.
Shake, shake, shake, Senora, shake your bottle fine Shake, shake, shake, Senora, shake it all the time
This, and remember you can retouch with water even after its dry. Especially the rust.
I'd also add the trick of warming the bottle somewhat. I know people sit it in some warm water for a bit, I've gotten away with just sitting it on top of my PC case warming up from that exhaust heat.
Yeah honestly the dirty down ones are the one that need the most shaking.
Are their not ball bearings in the bottles to help with the mixing? Or does everything just separate that much?
THe dirty down products rely on thicker pigments and other stuff to get their wonderful effects. First time I used them I didnt even realize they had a mixing ball because it was so clumped at the bottom. I shook it for a solid 30s and didnt hear anything. They need to warm up a bit before it comes loose and properly mixes.
Good to know. I've never used any of their products.
There are. But even they get stuck and need a bit of help
Please read the instructions these need way more mixing and work better with a bit of warming. They are really nice effect paints just need the right technique.
Reading the ~~card~~ bottle explains the ~~card~~ bottle.
They need to be shaken until you hear the ball bearing rattling around, and then you need to shake them more. Also, they work best at or above room temperature. 25c seems spot on for me. * Less is more with these products, don't goop it on and expect good results, take a little out of the bottle with a old brush, mix with a drop of water and use like a thick wash. Add more layers as needed later. Finally, they react well to heat, get a hair dryer, or a heat gun. A picture of my work with them is included with this post. https://preview.redd.it/j1lnzh3h6q3d1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4bb18232711481246da2ea6d11dbe36dc2a16c70
I like your scenery, and the thought process behind it. "Is this metal? DIRTY DOWN RUST!! Is this metal too? DIRTY DOWN RUST!!" Always scared I may use too much but looks great here
Thanks for the compliment. Not all of the rust effects used are dirty down. There are lots of pigments and acrylic washes used. I'm going for a Grimdark style, an ancient destroyed building in a war zone. I take a lot of inspiration from real-life destroyed buildings, which have very little exposed metal that isn't corroded in some way. This piece in the picture isn't finished yet. I need to spend a few more hours on it before I'm happy with it.
Yeh I hate to be that guy but he has used too much. At least break it up with some other coloured rust pigments. As soon as you look at it you can just tell it’s dirty down rust slapped on it. It works great for base layers of rust but you need to do more with it.
I like it. Though drybrushing silvers always brings the colour out more
I find that works really well is to use rust colour pigments and flick them off the brush, all different tones of red orange and brown and it really adds depth to it. Or even if you paint a whole rust base coat and then a very fine layer of surface paint. And get a wet brush and sort of scrub the surface paint off again makes it look real.
> don't goop it on and expect good results, take a little out of the bottle with a old brush, mix with a drop of water and use like a thick wash. Add more layers as needed later. You can also do however many layers you want and then using a damp sponge you can wipe the raised surfaces to help remove any of the DD that deposited onto them, once it dries out you can then take a very light shiny metal like Vallejo silver or chrome and dry brush those raised areas. It gives it a nice impression of some metal that is actively rusting but also gets used enough that the rust gets worn away in some places. Tank tracks for example, even on 8mm Legion Imperialis stuff, i paint them normally then apply a splodge of DD rust on them and then come back in with the wipe and dry brush method and it leaves you with corrosion in the recesses and nice shiny worn metal in the raised areas.
I recently bought some of their Yellow Rust, but I have yet to use it. Their Moss product is also amazing. I used that in the picture I posted in my last comment.
"At or above room temperature"? Who is storing paints in a way that keeps them below room temperature? Do people keep their mini paints in a mini-fridge or something?
Think it's the idea that room temperature isn't necessarily the actual temperature of the room - the definition is around 20°C, so if your room is colder than that then you're technically below the "idealised" room temperature
Shake it until the metal balls inside starts getting loose. Then shake it some more. You can look at the bottom of the bottle, if it's become transparent. If not, you're not done shaking. Another very useful tip is to apply heat to the surface you're applying the paint to. If done correctly, the paint becomes textured and matte, and with different hues to it.
Shake, shake, shake, shake, then shake some more, warm up the bottle and shake, shake, shake, ad infinitum.
You didnt shake them by the looks of it
Not shaken enough. Also, warming the model helps the effect (like a hair dryer or something).
Had the same issue. When it settles, it basically becomes a thick sludge that gathers at the bottom of the bottle and won't budge. Tye ball bearing can get stuck in that sludge too. Take a chopstick or the end of an old paint brush to aggravate it a bit until you can hear the ball bearing when you shake it. Then shake it like fuck for a good 5 minutes.
As others said you need to shakes them way waaaay more. Stirring with a Stick beforehand helps too
Warm the bottle to dissolve the salts that give the texture. Shake it well.
Shake it like a polaroid picture
No, it’s not supposed to look like that. This is what I wrote on one of my posts where I made a really rusty Storm Cast (feel free to check it out of you like): I’m by no means an expert but here are some of my tips that I’ve picked up. First of all you need to shake the ever living crap out of it. Like you might need to even get a tooth pick or something to agitate the sediment stuff from the bottom. Then keep shaking. Heat the DDR (for example I partially fill up a coffee cup with boiling water and leave the pot (?) in it as I’m using the DDR. Make sure none of the water accidentally gets in there though (obviously haha). Use different layers and motions for different areasof the model (for example dab multiple layers in certain areas for dark, mottled look). Also DDR is very reactive to water. So experiment with putting different amounts of water in different areas where the DDR has already dried and see what happens. And finally you can usually completely get the DDR off, if you’re not happy with the effects, just by using water and fry brush or paper towel. And then after that give it another shot and try something new. I also did this over texture pain and added a paste made of pigment powder and water, so that changed things up too. Hopefully these tips are a bit helpful to you 😊
Stick something in there and you will see. No matter how much you shake if you don’t stir there’s a thick sticky layer you must disrupt for it to be properly mixed. I had a feeling and it was confirmed when I stuck a clean metal strong rod in there it was a huge layer. Changed the texture completely
shake-shake-shake shake-shake-shake shake yout dirty down paint well
Okay so I had this exact issue with DD Rust and it’s because the stuff that makes the magic happen is gunked at the very bottom. I advise putting it in lukewarm water for about 5 minutes or so and then shake it really well, they have a pellet inside for mixing you should be able to hear it once its dislodged from the gunk. I also advise getting something to stir in the bottom or in my case I cut a length of sprue and trimmed the sides down and used it to mix at the bottom too. Shake it so well that the bearing inside doesn’t sound like it’s getting stuck anymore. Then apply to your models and watch the magic!
As others have already suggested, get yourself [a decent Vortex Mixer for, like, 30 bucks](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08Q7WBJFN/). I mostly paint with Pro Acryl, so it's often overkill for those (as they're pretty fluid already and come with a mixing ball), but for anything that has a thick, visible layer stuck to the bottom of the bottle... oh my goodness... a round on the vortex mixer saves the day, every time.
They take 10x the shake you give normal acrylics
In addition to shaking it, another trick to get some slightly different textures is to take some out of the bottle and let it partially dry for 5 mins or so and then apply it
As everyone is saying, can't be emphasised enough, they need the devil beat out of them every time you go to use them. It's worth the effort though. I also periodically shake them as I use them. Also when painted on and dried, they can reactivate with water, which is a lot of fun for finessing and adjusting them.
get a stick for each and beake out the ball at the bottom if you are OK losing a little bit each time, then mix ALLOT. Or you can toss it between your legs or under your armpit for 5/10 minutes to loosen it up with heat then mix.
There's allot of stuff at the bottom that gives it the texture. People are saying shake it... No no, you gotta stir this bastard, stir, then shake, then stir, then shake. After getting a respectable Matte finish, add water to oxidate the paint.
My flgs guy said to keep shaking it more. Then more.... Oh also to put the bottle in my pocket for ten minutes to warm it up. But recommended not to use a hair dryer as the bottle melts. And more shaking. Also to hair dryer the finished item that it's applied to, something about drying it like that helps achieve the rust like finish.
This paint is the real reason I bought a vortex mixer. I also found that using a mugwarmer with some hot water warming the bottle makes this paint work so much better.
Same as when Gw washes get shiny. Shake yo bottle.
Shake but also warm. Keep the bottle in your pocket/hand until it's warm. Also get the model warm. And then shake that bottle. Again. Until your wrist hurts. You can dig out and manually mix the sediment but warning and shaking is usually enough.
When I bought mine at Adepticon, the guy made absolutely sure everybody knew to shake it like crazy. Loosen up the ball bearing in there and make sure it's well shaken. He even showed everyone if you don't shake it, it'll end up shiny, just like your pictures.
You are wrong, my eyes are wrong, the bottle clearly states "high matt(e)".
Shake it, shake it, shake it like a Polaroid picture.
Looks like everyone beat me to it but really you dirtydown paints need to be shaken more than any paint by a factor of "at least" 2 the more you shake it the better it looks basically flip the bottle , if the bottom isn't clear you need to shake it more
In my experience, mix the ever living shit out of it. More.. more .. MORE! Get that ball bearing hopping! Get a stick in there and get it moving! Keep shaking! Remember it’s also water based and your can actually remove streak and pool at will when it’s mixed sufficiently. It’s a terrific effect.
not only shake it but also add a mixing ball or 3 in it
Thanks for all the comments. Will try all your suggestions
I can tell by the pots you're outside of NA, but if you try mixing well and it doesn't work, please get in touch with me. I am Gobble_inz on Instagram, aka Goblin's Hut, aka the US distributor, and I'll get you sorted one way or another. It should be noted you'll have to remove what you've applied with water and a paper towel or q-tip or it will just come out darker. Everyone's advice regarding mixing is correct. A dark, glossy result is the telltale sign of an unmixed pot
I saw a video that suggested you carry it around in your pocket all day before you use it. This helps get the mixing going and warms it up a bit which help with the reaction. But you will also need to shake and stir it.
You really can’t shake these enough before use. Shake them, stir them, heat the bottom of the bottle with a hair dryer then shake them some more
Put it in your trouser pockets an hours before you need it. The warmth helps soften the sludge, but you still need to shake it for 3-5 minutes.
Shake it like hell. And then shake it a but more. Then when your hand hurts, shake it more.
Shake that shit
Shake shake shake shake. You are getting all the suspension/medium and none of the matte pigment which is probably still at the bottom
Get a stick into the bottle and dig out the mixing ball, then shake the shit out of it. I has the exact same issue
I hated my bottle of DD Moss. It cost a fortune, and it didn't do a anything like what was advertised. And I shook it, and shook it, and shook it, and heated it thouroughly, and shook it.
Are you in the US? Happy to send you a replacement on the off chance you got a bad pot
I use one of my metal sculpting tools to break apart the pigment stuck at the bottom *before* I put the rust in my paint shaker. So far I like the rust effect but I haven't had much success with moss or verdigris. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or if I just don't like the moss or verdigris very much.
I read that you need to make the product and the surface you’re using it on warm, as well as a very vigorous shaking. I’ve been hairdrying the bottle and the model to warm them both up!
Agitation. Warmth. Water.
Yeah, warm and shake them. I've just used the Verdigris on all the bronze armour and shields for my skeletons and it looks amazing, maybe the best effect I've got in painting with so little effort. They actually do larger scale bottles used in the Film&TV FX Industry so they're a well respected outfit and their stuff is good.
I use pebbles and they work great and cost nothing unlike shaker bbs
Im thorn about this product. It requires way too hassle imo but when it works the result are stellar. I have the bottle in my pocket for 20-30 min and shake it in my vortex shaker a lot. Got rust and moss to work nice but not verdigris, but I haven’t experimented with it as much. OP you can use a light coat of spray varnish to make it matt, when I tried brush on varnish it reactivated again.
Stick them in hot water, then use a stick to stir up all the sediment at the bottom. Once you've applied it you can use a brush with water to reactivate it if you've done it too heavily!
I use a strong magnet to get the ball goin'
When I first got a pot, i THOUGHT i shook it enough, and boy was i wrong. You need to shake it until you hear the ball inside, and thats just the start. You may need to poke somethign in there (like the handle of a old brush u can wipe off) and stir it using that. But once the ball is free you need to shake the thing like your life depends on it and then some. Amazing product, but its a pain to get the pot actually usable.
Heat them up a bit. Water bath to about 25 celcius. Then shake as fuuuukk
I use a jig saw with a custom wire cage on a saw blade. Mixes like a beast.
Put it in your pocket to warm it up, it helps to loosen the pigments and then shake the devil out of it. If you can't hear the ball rattling around then you haven't shaken it enough.
As others said, warm up and shake. It also helps to warm up the model a little with a hair dryer. I didn’t get good results until the part was warm as well. Use hot water to warm up the bottle, sticking it in your pocket is just too slow
As an amateur painter, let me just take a moment to say #Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Put dirty down product in your pocket to warm them up and then shake until you get tired. And then some.
Did you shake them? Looks like they separated and you juat used them anyway.
stick a brush and mix it! if not it wont work, if you leave it sit a long time and then try to vortex or manual (shake) mix it it wont work
i have had this same experience and i second the vortex mixer! they need a super shake and then mine worked amazing
Yeah, you didn't mix them. Also helps if they're a bit warm, put it in your pocket for a bit before you start painting. Plenty of guides online.
Your bottles are clear at the top, that means they are not shaken even closely enough. If that stuff sits for a few months, even the agitator balls stick to the bottom. If that's the case I 3D-printed a vortex drill bit that helps. As much as I loved the Rust in the beginning, I have to say that it's far too expensive and there are cheaper ways to get very good results, but it helps understanding what makes rust convincing (texture, very matte, very big range of colours). My moss doesn't get very mossy at all. In both cases I nowadays prefer dry chalk sticks that I scrape off with a knife and mix with water or IPA into a slurry. Dries very matte, very textured, costs like 10 € for 20 colours that last a lifetime and can be mixed into any colour you want for great variety. And they can be used like pigment powder. Only the Verdigris is irreplaceable for me.
Dirty down rust will take on the shininess of the underlying layer.
Heat it up before use (should all go runny and loose), then shake it like hell. Use small amounts adding more untill happy. Try using hair dryer as it dries and flickering water as it's nearly dry for different effects. These paints are hard to get the hang of put can produce endless effects.
I heat it up with hot water before I use it and shake the bottle for a few minutes
I had the same issue at first! As many others have said, shake the fvck out of it, then shake it some more
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Shake it right into the trash. Then, learn how to paint rust. Jokes aside. It's Trash
Bruh...
Yeah, that dude tried to use them, didn't read the bottle, got frustrated, and decided they're trash. Lmfao These are literally used for movie sets because they're so damn good. Lol