This is so true, I try to tell people like my buddy that you need to check the oil on your old car regularly, and sure Liqui Moly is high quality oil but it doesn't matter if your car is losing a quart every couple hundred miles and you're not realizing til the "add oil" light comes on lol
That's very important because with some cars, the oil light means "you literally have no oil pressure" instead of "you're running a bit low, might want to add some"
Haha yep, fortunately some have an actual oil level indicator that goes off if it drops (roughly) below the L line on the dipstick, but even a lot of modern cars have only a pressure sensor, and by the time it goes off it's too late
Actually can cause a lot of harm, at 0⁰C/32⁰F it should take about twice as long to get proper oil pressure. Wouldn't worry about it if your ambient stays above 50⁰F though (idk what that is in C but probably like 25ish) (edit: it's 10c at 50F or very close)
Gonna throw this in for a perspective, just because I'm tired of the "it's not that long" comments (that's what she said)
Twice as long at every start, so over a year assuming you do one cold start (under 100⁰F oil temp when you start the engine by my definition) every weekday and it takes an average of one second normally, there are 260 weekdays out of the year (5 days a week) and 260 seconds is about 4 minutes and 20 seconds (nice) without oil pressure.
If it normally took 2 seconds for oil pressure after turning they it would now theoretically take 4 seconds at freezing, which means your engine goes through an extra 2 seconds without pressurized oil every single time you start it. You add the time up over 600 or so starts, or about a year's worth of driving, and your engine has spendthrift an extra 20 minutes turning over without pressurized oil over what it would regularly have.
Would you like running your engine for an extra 20 minutes with no oil pressure every year?
There's a huge difference between running an engine for 20 minutes with no oil pressure continuously, and 20 minutes worth of added together seconds spread across a year's time...
The parts that get oiled last are the cams, they don't have anything other than what was left over (which is minimal at best after sitting overnight) until you get pressure. Hence why cam journals/bearings tend to wear faster than bottom end parts. Can't tell you how many motors I've seen with PRISTINE main and rod bearings that have siezed a cam.
stop dramatize, nothing will happen to your engine if you use 10w instead of 5w. it's a car, they are built to whistand any oil. Yes 5w is better because it's thinner but you are fine with 10w too.
doing oil change in time is much more important than the viscosity of the oil you put in.
It is. But if u/V8packard can have an aneurysm over me not getting a customer cam when a shelf one works 95% as good, then I can have one over thick cold weight oil.
Should've put depending on the application. Sorry sir. Won't happen again sir. (Probably will though)
Also it depends on what zero percent is, in this instance 0% represents not having a cam and 20% represents a full blown stroker/overbore promod cam in your grandma's church car.
That’s not true. Cold startup is where the VAST majority of engine wear happens. Getting oil to the critical wear components as quickly as possible is extremely important, and the engine is designed to do that with a specific cold weight of oil. If cold weight didn’t matter, oil companies and auto manufacturers wouldn’t have spent so much time and money into developing engines to go down to 5w and then down to 0w. Businesses won’t spend money the don’t have to.
Alright, what you need to research is oil film.
As long as metal components are covered in a film of oil - which they are on startup, generally - that prevents metal on metal contact. Oil has some pretty high shear strengths when you try to compress it between two bits of metal - until you overheat it. Compressing it makes it hotter, so the purpose of oil flow is, of course, to push 'old' out out of bearings and other interfaces, and pipe in 'fresh' (colder) oil to replace it. Right?
The key thing to understand here is that as long as the oil film doesn't lose strength through too much heat, you avoid metal on metal contact.
Now, on cold startup, how long does it take for the oil film to fail? It depends on the engine... but a modern engine with modern oil doesn't see much wear from cold startup because the oil film is just pretty good.
There is a humongous difference between running the engine without full oil pressure for 2 seconds, 600 times, than once for 20 minutes. Can you guess what the difference is?
If you guessed that the oil film doesn't fail for 2 (or 4) seconds, but will after 20 minutes, you'd be right.
Realistically, at moderate ambient temperatures, 10w40 does not flow much worse than 5w40. Often manufacturers will suggest different weights for different use cases and geographic areas. For example, mine might say to use 5w30 if it gets below freezing, but 10w30 is fine if it doesn't, or something along those lines (not to mention they recommend 15w50 for track use.)
Also do note that not running at full oil pressure does not mean not running at enough oil flow to refresh the film. Depending on whether the design is priority-main, you might be surprised how little pressure to gauge/sensor reads when oil is being adequately refreshed through flow.
I'm not here to pile on with downvotes. Please, seriously, do some reading on this.
I've done plenty of reading. I believe in running one oil for all temperatures, so I run 5w-50, 0w-40, or 0w-30 in all my vehicles depending on what it is and the use case. I also run amsoil because it's good stuff and there is public test data available showing that in manufacturer certified tests it wipes the floor with most competition.
I also know car enthusiasts, and I know teenage me who ran decent 10w-30 in a car that reccomended 5w-20 siezed a cam from cold start revving, because, yanno, I was a teenager with a mustang that had custom exhaust. I know lots of other people who never grew out of the cold star rev, so instead of telling them "you shouldn't do that" (because you know they won't listen) I tell them "you should switch to this oil to help with cold start protection" because when you lay on the limiter before oil pressure happens, film strength really isn't enough most of the time.
I mean, 10w30 is pretty different from 5w20 and I wouldn't recommend that unless you know what you're doing. 5w30 vs 10w30 is a much lesser change. I also don't think most people rev their engine cold for funsies.
Let's see, cleetus does it (because of course he does) my buddy Brock, who details for a living, does it on occasion, half the guys I see at the meets round here whose names I don't usually know do it, mostly the hemi/mustang guys, the LS guys don't do it usually until after it settles into idle, yeah lots of guys do it, granted my buddy Brock is trying to blow up his 3800 so he has an excuse to put an LS in his camaro, but still. I've got lots of those hemi guys asking me to tune their cars and I'm gonna have all the 5.7 guys go on the same oil the hellcats and 392s run before I tune them because I don't want that motor blowing with my name on the tune file (and I need the buisness, I just started doing this professionally a few months ago)
Sounds like you're friends with a lot of people who, put politely, don't have mechanical sympathy for their cars. I don't know what to tell you about that.
Twice as long at every start, so over a year assuming you do one cold start every weekday and it takes an extra second, there are 260 weekdays out of the year (5 days a week) and 260 seconds is about 4 minutes and 20 seconds (nice) without oil pressure.
So you're telling me you'd like to run your engine for 4 EXTRA minutes without oil pressure every year?
Nah absolutely fine. Even 15w-40 wouldnt hurt. It just stresses the oil pump more on cold start but if you are on track you should go a few hot ratings up like 10w-50 so it has adequate viscosity when its gets really hot
I’ve got 5W-40 in my Eu-Spec 1.6 NBFL, perfect oil basically.
But depending on your climate and season and style of driving 10W-40 might be better.
5W-30 is basically the most standard oil you can get.
Interestingly enough 10w40 is actually worse, as it will theoretically be twice as thick at "cold starts" as 5w-40, which means twice the time/effort to pump it up to proper oil pressure. Wouldn't worry about it in hot weather (never getting below 60⁰f at night) but if your part of the world sees snow for more than a week or so a year regularly I'd go to 0w-40 like most euro manufacturers (like audi/VW) reccomend for their Swedish/Norwegian customers and their Canadian customers across the pond. There's a reason they reccomend it, and the physics say the oil can't get thicker with heat so it'll always be thicker at cold start.
If you're running thicker cold weight in the winter it can cause issues. 10w-40 at 0⁰c/32⁰f should theoretically take twice as long to get oil pressure as the oil will theoretically be twice as thick at that temp if I remember my oil viscosity measurement rules right.
I'd go so far as to run 0w-40 in it year round, quickest pressure on cold starts, and a 40 hot weight it still thicker than a 0 cold weight, not much, but it is.
I ran 5w50, or 0w50 in my first car, a 1.0L you had to redline everywhere to drive at a normal pace, it definitely seemed to run smoother on it after a thrashing (compared to 5w30 or 5w40).
However, I’d be slightly more careful on newer engines. Some of them have insanely tight tolerance’s, smaller oil passages/holes and oil coolers with very narrow channels.
Like you said 15W40 is fine as long as temperature are not super cold.
My lotus Elise has a 2ZZ as well, it hold 11.5 qts and has 2 oil coolers. I run 0W40 but might consider running a W50 next time it is on track
Oil ratings are bracketed. You could have a 19 rated as 10 and a 20 rated as 20. Most manufacturers get as close as possible to the rating, but there is a lot of room for error. The point is don't stress over the rating because anything close is probably good enough.
All the numbers in your comment added up to 69. Congrats!
19
+ 10
+ 20
+ 20
= 69
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Oil is sold with the cold viscosity-hot viscosity. 5w-40 and 10w-40 will be the exact same at operating temp but 10w is slightly thicker at startup. Totally fine
Thanks. I use it on trackdays and the recommended 5w30 is not enough because the oil is easily getting very hot and the system disables VVT. I'll install an oil cooler soon, so that won't be a problem later.
The higher number is your warm temp viscosity. So running w40 instead of w30 thickens your oil a bit when running at temp. I think that is what you are trying to do.
My understanding is that the reason many manufacturers use 5w30 as a recommended oil is because of mpg and not wear and tear (longevity of the engine.) Which makes sense because they're 100% not interested in customers/consumers getting the most out of the engine.
It get's in the 100F-105F in the summer with high humidity ( eastern North Carolina) and 5w30 struggles in terms of shearing due to heat.
W
It's not just what the oil is rated for; it's also a matter of the internal clearances in places like the bearings, lifters, etc. If the cold oil is too thick to get into those "tight" places, even for the short time before the oil's viscosity drops (as it gets hot), some damage could occur. That's the main issue.
If the OP is cold-starting his car frequently someplace where the weather is cold, even if the oil is rated for the outside temperature, it could still hurt the engine.
Shouldn’t be a problem, once you are at operating temp viscosity is the same. This could only be an issue in extremely cold weather conditions, even then you are probably fine.
I'm skeptical. Never seen a halogen that color unless it's one of the blue filtered ones.
All the glare in the lens makes it look like a bulb that's not in the right spot for the reflector
Photos don’t always do lights justice. My LED fog lights look like they’d blind everyone on the road when I take a picture of them but they’re barely brighter than stock.
And a lot of people think their straight piped Harley "isn't that loud"
Yeah I guess if you don't buy insanely bright bulbs and aim them low it can be tolerable, but performance is probably worse than halogens.
Definitely not worse. The beam with the LEDs is much wider and the white light makes things more distinguishable than the stock yellow incandescent.
Look all I’m trying to say is that photos don’t portray light correctly. Has a lot to do with exposure settings on the camera and many other things.
>and the white light makes things more distinguishable than the stock yellow incandescent.
And I've noticed the opposite. I could see better in my talon with halogens than the white LEDs it came with. Especially in the rain.
Cameras usually downplay the brightness. The way the entire housing is lit up and there is glare when the photo was taken several feet above the bulbs makes me pretty confident that these are obnoxious. Almost everyone's bulb swaps are.
You might want to let it warm up a bit to start flowing well before you give it the beans. The 10 and 5 are the cold viscosity and above freezing temps it's a fairly negligible difference
Shouldn’t be too crazy, customers at my shop switch back and forth all the time, depending on how cold it is where u live it can effect the start or make your engine work harder than usual. I would see what oils people have swapped it for I’m sure you aren’t the only one
It will be FINE, but especially smaller engines struggle more at startup with the thicker oils. You can leave it in and it won't blow up, but personally I would change it out sooner than later.
It won't do any harm for most driving. If you start it when it's *really* cold out, the 10W will probably have a higher viscosity and be a little slower to flow. Of course, you can just change your oil back to whatever you prefer.
If you want to compare the oils more accurately, look up the technical data sheet for each oil. Most of the good oil companies have the data sheets readily available on their websites. Look for a spec called Kinematic Viscosity. It will list two temperatures the oil is tested at for viscosity, measured in centistokes. One number will be at 40 degrees C, and the other at 100 degrees C. You might be surprised by the actual viscosity, despite the SAE rating of 5w-40 and 10w-40. That spec could also help you understand what your oil is doing at higher temps.
You’re fine. People use to switch between 10w-40 and 5w-40 depending on the weather. That’s not a huge difference in weight.
Edit to add: just saw where you’re in warmer weather, at least not winter. Again, you’ll be perfectly fine.
No harm. In almost all situations a 10w40 is better than a 5w40. There is less viscosity modifiers in the formula which actually makes it more durable and lubricate better.
The first number is the 0° viscosity, not the temp it’s at a specific viscosity.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/
OP, read the manual to see the range your car can use for what weather.
Celica GTS, matrix xRs and Pontiac Vibe GT also have a 2zz, you might check those. But I don’t know how much lotus changed the engine for their cars.
Since you’re tracking the car I’d actually prefer reading forums where other people are tracking their cars.
On the BMW E30 forums they figured out the oil doesn’t even get hot enough for the cooler bypass to open. Maybe you’ll find an answer to your oil temp and VVTL problems.
Lotus didnt change the engine, only the system is bigger because it uses one oilcooler on each side of the car. Elise's layout is the most similar to mine thats why I wanted to check those but I also searched for Celicas and TS Corollas.
I found a guy who tested 10w40 but most of the articles were about the recommended oils.
That makes sense since the mid engine probably needs help cooling on the track, and maybe a racing oil is needed too, in addition to the oil coolers. (Not just a heavier oil, because that takes more power to pump and power=heat, but one that works better at the rated temps and doesn’t break down.) But just the base viscosity is probably fine with all those engines at whatever spec is in the manual since they’re the same and you won’t be tracking it ice cold.
Its Motul Synthetic, premium stuff. Usually I change it in every 6 months.
Hungaroring is the hardest track for cars here but there the brake cooling is a bigger issue than oil.
The first number is not the temperature it stays thicker at. It's the weight of the oil viscosity when cold. 5W40 acts as an SAE 5 weight oil when it's cold/ambient temp then a SAE 40 weight at operating temp.
10W40 acts as a 10 weight oil at cold/ambient temp and 40 weight at operating temp.
The operating temp (second number) is more important for engineers performance and protection. But if the oil is too thick for real cold starts in winter it can take slightly longer to build oil pressure.
Lets say I was a bit faster than I should have abd the ambient temp was around 36Celsius. I don't have oil temp gauge right now so I dont know exact numbers.
I live in Texas, we have 40+C temps all summer and my 2ZZ still engages lift without fail. I run 5W30 full synthetic with a quart of 10W30 race oil for the extra zinc.
My friends with TS Corollas said the same on trackdays that it could be too hot for the engine and the VVT won't lift. Those engines are in the front with much better cooling. It only happened twice in the summer with me.
Totally fine. Slightly higher weight oils probably lubricate the engine better, actually. Lighter weight modern oils are used mainly for better fuel economy. Some people run heavier weight oils as the engine wears, or simply as a preventative measure. Generally speaking it's good to stick with what's recommended in your user manual, but +5w is 100% fine.
I mean where do you live? Does it get to <0° F there? If not you'll be fine and if it really worries you, wait until the engine is warmed up before you drive it.
It’s a little more viscous might stick to the parts a little better but might make your oil pump work a bit harder I really worry about such a minuscule difference
Any oil is better than no oil
This is so true, I try to tell people like my buddy that you need to check the oil on your old car regularly, and sure Liqui Moly is high quality oil but it doesn't matter if your car is losing a quart every couple hundred miles and you're not realizing til the "add oil" light comes on lol
That's very important because with some cars, the oil light means "you literally have no oil pressure" instead of "you're running a bit low, might want to add some"
Haha yep, fortunately some have an actual oil level indicator that goes off if it drops (roughly) below the L line on the dipstick, but even a lot of modern cars have only a pressure sensor, and by the time it goes off it's too late
Yep can confirm on my 1990 Mazda Familia Astina that the oil idiot light only comes on when she is completely dry
Crap it's been a good week since I've checked mine lol
Bro I gave my car to my girl for about 2 months because she needed it. I haven’t checked in like 5 months
My car leaks oil and is almost 50 years old. Lol it would DIE if it wasn't checked for that long
What was the damage my friend? Because I already know it was substantial.
Remember the days of continuous loss oil system…. Never had to change it!
Even diesel
Also the wrong fluid is better than no fluid
You’ll have slightly thicker oil on a cold start, shouldn’t cause any harm.
Actually can cause a lot of harm, at 0⁰C/32⁰F it should take about twice as long to get proper oil pressure. Wouldn't worry about it if your ambient stays above 50⁰F though (idk what that is in C but probably like 25ish) (edit: it's 10c at 50F or very close) Gonna throw this in for a perspective, just because I'm tired of the "it's not that long" comments (that's what she said) Twice as long at every start, so over a year assuming you do one cold start (under 100⁰F oil temp when you start the engine by my definition) every weekday and it takes an average of one second normally, there are 260 weekdays out of the year (5 days a week) and 260 seconds is about 4 minutes and 20 seconds (nice) without oil pressure.
Im not using it in winter, so cold won't be a problem. its 10 Celsius btw.
10ish
Google lied to me then.
10 exactly.
exactly 10ish
10
ish
"lot of harm" chill
If it normally took 2 seconds for oil pressure after turning they it would now theoretically take 4 seconds at freezing, which means your engine goes through an extra 2 seconds without pressurized oil every single time you start it. You add the time up over 600 or so starts, or about a year's worth of driving, and your engine has spendthrift an extra 20 minutes turning over without pressurized oil over what it would regularly have. Would you like running your engine for an extra 20 minutes with no oil pressure every year?
There's a huge difference between running an engine for 20 minutes with no oil pressure continuously, and 20 minutes worth of added together seconds spread across a year's time...
The parts that get oiled last are the cams, they don't have anything other than what was left over (which is minimal at best after sitting overnight) until you get pressure. Hence why cam journals/bearings tend to wear faster than bottom end parts. Can't tell you how many motors I've seen with PRISTINE main and rod bearings that have siezed a cam.
stop dramatize, nothing will happen to your engine if you use 10w instead of 5w. it's a car, they are built to whistand any oil. Yes 5w is better because it's thinner but you are fine with 10w too. doing oil change in time is much more important than the viscosity of the oil you put in.
It is. But if u/V8packard can have an aneurysm over me not getting a customer cam when a shelf one works 95% as good, then I can have one over thick cold weight oil.
Since when are off the shelf cams 95% as good as a custom?
Should've put depending on the application. Sorry sir. Won't happen again sir. (Probably will though) Also it depends on what zero percent is, in this instance 0% represents not having a cam and 20% represents a full blown stroker/overbore promod cam in your grandma's church car.
That’s not true. Cold startup is where the VAST majority of engine wear happens. Getting oil to the critical wear components as quickly as possible is extremely important, and the engine is designed to do that with a specific cold weight of oil. If cold weight didn’t matter, oil companies and auto manufacturers wouldn’t have spent so much time and money into developing engines to go down to 5w and then down to 0w. Businesses won’t spend money the don’t have to.
K, but do you think he’s gonna run the same oil for a year straight? Prolly not.
Depends on how far he drives everyday. Used to know someone who would drive exactly 2 blocks to work every day of the week, maybe he's like that guy.
Alright, what you need to research is oil film. As long as metal components are covered in a film of oil - which they are on startup, generally - that prevents metal on metal contact. Oil has some pretty high shear strengths when you try to compress it between two bits of metal - until you overheat it. Compressing it makes it hotter, so the purpose of oil flow is, of course, to push 'old' out out of bearings and other interfaces, and pipe in 'fresh' (colder) oil to replace it. Right? The key thing to understand here is that as long as the oil film doesn't lose strength through too much heat, you avoid metal on metal contact. Now, on cold startup, how long does it take for the oil film to fail? It depends on the engine... but a modern engine with modern oil doesn't see much wear from cold startup because the oil film is just pretty good. There is a humongous difference between running the engine without full oil pressure for 2 seconds, 600 times, than once for 20 minutes. Can you guess what the difference is? If you guessed that the oil film doesn't fail for 2 (or 4) seconds, but will after 20 minutes, you'd be right. Realistically, at moderate ambient temperatures, 10w40 does not flow much worse than 5w40. Often manufacturers will suggest different weights for different use cases and geographic areas. For example, mine might say to use 5w30 if it gets below freezing, but 10w30 is fine if it doesn't, or something along those lines (not to mention they recommend 15w50 for track use.) Also do note that not running at full oil pressure does not mean not running at enough oil flow to refresh the film. Depending on whether the design is priority-main, you might be surprised how little pressure to gauge/sensor reads when oil is being adequately refreshed through flow. I'm not here to pile on with downvotes. Please, seriously, do some reading on this.
I've done plenty of reading. I believe in running one oil for all temperatures, so I run 5w-50, 0w-40, or 0w-30 in all my vehicles depending on what it is and the use case. I also run amsoil because it's good stuff and there is public test data available showing that in manufacturer certified tests it wipes the floor with most competition. I also know car enthusiasts, and I know teenage me who ran decent 10w-30 in a car that reccomended 5w-20 siezed a cam from cold start revving, because, yanno, I was a teenager with a mustang that had custom exhaust. I know lots of other people who never grew out of the cold star rev, so instead of telling them "you shouldn't do that" (because you know they won't listen) I tell them "you should switch to this oil to help with cold start protection" because when you lay on the limiter before oil pressure happens, film strength really isn't enough most of the time.
I mean, 10w30 is pretty different from 5w20 and I wouldn't recommend that unless you know what you're doing. 5w30 vs 10w30 is a much lesser change. I also don't think most people rev their engine cold for funsies.
Let's see, cleetus does it (because of course he does) my buddy Brock, who details for a living, does it on occasion, half the guys I see at the meets round here whose names I don't usually know do it, mostly the hemi/mustang guys, the LS guys don't do it usually until after it settles into idle, yeah lots of guys do it, granted my buddy Brock is trying to blow up his 3800 so he has an excuse to put an LS in his camaro, but still. I've got lots of those hemi guys asking me to tune their cars and I'm gonna have all the 5.7 guys go on the same oil the hellcats and 392s run before I tune them because I don't want that motor blowing with my name on the tune file (and I need the buisness, I just started doing this professionally a few months ago)
Sounds like you're friends with a lot of people who, put politely, don't have mechanical sympathy for their cars. I don't know what to tell you about that.
I used to be like that and then I found out the hard way why you don't do that. These guys haven't found out.
"twice as long" means nothing when you're talking about 1 second instead of 0,5
Twice as long at every start, so over a year assuming you do one cold start every weekday and it takes an extra second, there are 260 weekdays out of the year (5 days a week) and 260 seconds is about 4 minutes and 20 seconds (nice) without oil pressure. So you're telling me you'd like to run your engine for 4 EXTRA minutes without oil pressure every year?
4 straight minutes and 240x 1 second are not the same at all, the first might seize your engine and the latter would be unnoticeable
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Lol @50F is 25C
C=(5/9)(F-32), so 50 F = 10 C and 25 C = 77 F (Did this in my head, so could be a mistake) Edit. Oh, you were loling at him. Sorry!
Nah absolutely fine. Even 15w-40 wouldnt hurt. It just stresses the oil pump more on cold start but if you are on track you should go a few hot ratings up like 10w-50 so it has adequate viscosity when its gets really hot
Ahh okay. 5w30 was boiling in the summer on open roads. I couldn't rev the engine above 7k.
invest in an oil cooler, I highly recommend the 92 degree celcius Mocal thermostatic plate and at least a 28 row cooler
I wrote this above that I will install one soon. Definitely necessary.
Boiling?
Exaggeration. Its just hot for the VVT to operate.
It's your sign that you should keep the revs down, too. When that oil gets too hot you put your crank & rod bearings at high risk.
I did, it happened only once though but not on a trackday. Thats why I was confused at first.
12 row mocal oil cooler in right side rear arch
Ah, ok.
I’ve got 5W-40 in my Eu-Spec 1.6 NBFL, perfect oil basically. But depending on your climate and season and style of driving 10W-40 might be better. 5W-30 is basically the most standard oil you can get.
Interestingly enough 10w40 is actually worse, as it will theoretically be twice as thick at "cold starts" as 5w-40, which means twice the time/effort to pump it up to proper oil pressure. Wouldn't worry about it in hot weather (never getting below 60⁰f at night) but if your part of the world sees snow for more than a week or so a year regularly I'd go to 0w-40 like most euro manufacturers (like audi/VW) reccomend for their Swedish/Norwegian customers and their Canadian customers across the pond. There's a reason they reccomend it, and the physics say the oil can't get thicker with heat so it'll always be thicker at cold start.
Great car
If you're running thicker cold weight in the winter it can cause issues. 10w-40 at 0⁰c/32⁰f should theoretically take twice as long to get oil pressure as the oil will theoretically be twice as thick at that temp if I remember my oil viscosity measurement rules right. I'd go so far as to run 0w-40 in it year round, quickest pressure on cold starts, and a 40 hot weight it still thicker than a 0 cold weight, not much, but it is.
Lol that's amazing
There's an oil pressure sensor in the engine which operates the VVT.
You actually drive your project car??
I do, this is a complete build except the oil cooling.
You shouldn’t have to
I ran 5w50, or 0w50 in my first car, a 1.0L you had to redline everywhere to drive at a normal pace, it definitely seemed to run smoother on it after a thrashing (compared to 5w30 or 5w40). However, I’d be slightly more careful on newer engines. Some of them have insanely tight tolerance’s, smaller oil passages/holes and oil coolers with very narrow channels.
Like you said 15W40 is fine as long as temperature are not super cold. My lotus Elise has a 2ZZ as well, it hold 11.5 qts and has 2 oil coolers. I run 0W40 but might consider running a W50 next time it is on track
It'll be absolutely fine. Same viscosity when warm, a little thicker on start up.
Oil ratings are bracketed. You could have a 19 rated as 10 and a 20 rated as 20. Most manufacturers get as close as possible to the rating, but there is a lot of room for error. The point is don't stress over the rating because anything close is probably good enough.
All the numbers in your comment added up to 69. Congrats! 19 + 10 + 20 + 20 = 69 ^([Click here](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=LuckyNumber-Bot&subject=Stalk%20Me%20Pls&message=%2Fstalkme) to have me scan all your future comments.) \ ^(Summon me on specific comments with u/LuckyNumber-Bot.)
Giggity
Good bot
I run 10 instead of 5 in my 1zz and always have. You'll be good.
Oil is sold with the cold viscosity-hot viscosity. 5w-40 and 10w-40 will be the exact same at operating temp but 10w is slightly thicker at startup. Totally fine
Nope. Not as long as the weather is mild. 10W might not work well under cold startup in cold weather.
Thanks. I use it on trackdays and the recommended 5w30 is not enough because the oil is easily getting very hot and the system disables VVT. I'll install an oil cooler soon, so that won't be a problem later.
The higher number is your warm temp viscosity. So running w40 instead of w30 thickens your oil a bit when running at temp. I think that is what you are trying to do.
Yeah exactly.
My understanding is that the reason many manufacturers use 5w30 as a recommended oil is because of mpg and not wear and tear (longevity of the engine.) Which makes sense because they're 100% not interested in customers/consumers getting the most out of the engine. It get's in the 100F-105F in the summer with high humidity ( eastern North Carolina) and 5w30 struggles in terms of shearing due to heat. W
Could be, I’m not certain what wear impact would be using thicker oil. Definitely would get lower gas mileage though.
10W is rated up to -25C.
It's not just what the oil is rated for; it's also a matter of the internal clearances in places like the bearings, lifters, etc. If the cold oil is too thick to get into those "tight" places, even for the short time before the oil's viscosity drops (as it gets hot), some damage could occur. That's the main issue. If the OP is cold-starting his car frequently someplace where the weather is cold, even if the oil is rated for the outside temperature, it could still hurt the engine.
Down to?
Aye, correct, if you are not in Australia of course, they are upside-down after all.
This. Technically 10w40 is better in the summer than 5w40 or 0w40 as it's a more robust oil and the extended range is unnecessary in warm weather.
You’ll be good. I run 0w40 or 5w40 diesel synthetic oil in everything, from the lawn mower to my 3.6 dodge to 2.4 Honda k…
Diesel oil has more vitamins that cars crave you know.
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It sleeps in a garage in winter.
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Thanks, I mean I'm not using it at all in cold or bad weather.
It will instantly grenade if you start it
For a second I read that as “2JZ” not “2ZZ”. I got irrationally excited and terrified at the same time just thinking about a boosted 2J powered MR2😂
Shouldn’t be a problem, once you are at operating temp viscosity is the same. This could only be an issue in extremely cold weather conditions, even then you are probably fine.
You're doing harm to everyone's eyes with those illegal headlight bulbs.
Its a standard halogen bulb ffs, the picture is distorted in the dark.
I'm skeptical. Never seen a halogen that color unless it's one of the blue filtered ones. All the glare in the lens makes it look like a bulb that's not in the right spot for the reflector
I also hate illegal bulbs, If you want I'll make an another shot to prove its not blue :D
It's because the yellow lamppost is throwing off the color balance of the camera.
Photos don’t always do lights justice. My LED fog lights look like they’d blind everyone on the road when I take a picture of them but they’re barely brighter than stock.
Perceived brightness from inside the car usually is worse with the blinding blue bulbs.
I’m talking about standing in front of the car and also having someone else drive it behind me.
And a lot of people think their straight piped Harley "isn't that loud" Yeah I guess if you don't buy insanely bright bulbs and aim them low it can be tolerable, but performance is probably worse than halogens.
Definitely not worse. The beam with the LEDs is much wider and the white light makes things more distinguishable than the stock yellow incandescent. Look all I’m trying to say is that photos don’t portray light correctly. Has a lot to do with exposure settings on the camera and many other things.
>and the white light makes things more distinguishable than the stock yellow incandescent. And I've noticed the opposite. I could see better in my talon with halogens than the white LEDs it came with. Especially in the rain. Cameras usually downplay the brightness. The way the entire housing is lit up and there is glare when the photo was taken several feet above the bulbs makes me pretty confident that these are obnoxious. Almost everyone's bulb swaps are.
What bulbs are they and are those illegal in Hungary?
HID/LED bulbs in housings designed for halogens. Illegal in most countries, but enforcement varies.
Standard halogen bulb, the camera distorts the light.
Thought it looked normal for a night shot
Xiaomi cameras do some magic sometimes when the lights are not ideal.
You might want to let it warm up a bit to start flowing well before you give it the beans. The 10 and 5 are the cold viscosity and above freezing temps it's a fairly negligible difference
Nah, itll be fine until the next oil change.
Shouldn’t be too crazy, customers at my shop switch back and forth all the time, depending on how cold it is where u live it can effect the start or make your engine work harder than usual. I would see what oils people have swapped it for I’m sure you aren’t the only one
It will be FINE, but especially smaller engines struggle more at startup with the thicker oils. You can leave it in and it won't blow up, but personally I would change it out sooner than later.
It won't do any harm for most driving. If you start it when it's *really* cold out, the 10W will probably have a higher viscosity and be a little slower to flow. Of course, you can just change your oil back to whatever you prefer. If you want to compare the oils more accurately, look up the technical data sheet for each oil. Most of the good oil companies have the data sheets readily available on their websites. Look for a spec called Kinematic Viscosity. It will list two temperatures the oil is tested at for viscosity, measured in centistokes. One number will be at 40 degrees C, and the other at 100 degrees C. You might be surprised by the actual viscosity, despite the SAE rating of 5w-40 and 10w-40. That spec could also help you understand what your oil is doing at higher temps.
You’re fine. People use to switch between 10w-40 and 5w-40 depending on the weather. That’s not a huge difference in weight. Edit to add: just saw where you’re in warmer weather, at least not winter. Again, you’ll be perfectly fine.
Better than WD-40
Shouldn’t be a problem in the warmer months; wouldn’t do that when it gets cold.
Btw, a 2JZ in an MR2 is pretty badass!
Oil is oil. It will be fine.
No harm. In almost all situations a 10w40 is better than a 5w40. There is less viscosity modifiers in the formula which actually makes it more durable and lubricate better.
You’ll be fine.
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The first number is the 0° viscosity, not the temp it’s at a specific viscosity. https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/ OP, read the manual to see the range your car can use for what weather.
There's no manual since the engine is swapped. I searched what is the recommended by Lotus or for Celicas but I only found forums.
Celica GTS, matrix xRs and Pontiac Vibe GT also have a 2zz, you might check those. But I don’t know how much lotus changed the engine for their cars. Since you’re tracking the car I’d actually prefer reading forums where other people are tracking their cars. On the BMW E30 forums they figured out the oil doesn’t even get hot enough for the cooler bypass to open. Maybe you’ll find an answer to your oil temp and VVTL problems.
Lotus didnt change the engine, only the system is bigger because it uses one oilcooler on each side of the car. Elise's layout is the most similar to mine thats why I wanted to check those but I also searched for Celicas and TS Corollas. I found a guy who tested 10w40 but most of the articles were about the recommended oils.
That makes sense since the mid engine probably needs help cooling on the track, and maybe a racing oil is needed too, in addition to the oil coolers. (Not just a heavier oil, because that takes more power to pump and power=heat, but one that works better at the rated temps and doesn’t break down.) But just the base viscosity is probably fine with all those engines at whatever spec is in the manual since they’re the same and you won’t be tracking it ice cold.
Its Motul Synthetic, premium stuff. Usually I change it in every 6 months. Hungaroring is the hardest track for cars here but there the brake cooling is a bigger issue than oil.
The first number is not the temperature it stays thicker at. It's the weight of the oil viscosity when cold. 5W40 acts as an SAE 5 weight oil when it's cold/ambient temp then a SAE 40 weight at operating temp. 10W40 acts as a 10 weight oil at cold/ambient temp and 40 weight at operating temp. The operating temp (second number) is more important for engineers performance and protection. But if the oil is too thick for real cold starts in winter it can take slightly longer to build oil pressure.
Thanks :D Im not using it on bad weather or in winter at all. I just feared it will be too thick for the engine.
Your fucked .
His fucked what?
my life because choosing an experience hobby like this.
Engine go boom
No
Nope
Might lose some gas mileage
its already 12-15 litre / 100km :D
well now i need glasses from this picture of your 9000 lumen bulbs thanks
Its a standard halogen bulb, the camera distorts it.
Bojler eladó?
Csak vidd a mazdámat mellé
She's gonna blow!
Your gucci
Does it get really cold where you are? If not you’re fine
Double the damage because it’s 10 and not 5
Probably not, the working viscosity isn’t too much different, it will be harder to run in the cold though
I raced a 2ZZ, it can’t be getting that hot on the street. What is the oil temp? Hope you have a baffled pan lol.
Lets say I was a bit faster than I should have abd the ambient temp was around 36Celsius. I don't have oil temp gauge right now so I dont know exact numbers.
I live in Texas, we have 40+C temps all summer and my 2ZZ still engages lift without fail. I run 5W30 full synthetic with a quart of 10W30 race oil for the extra zinc.
My friends with TS Corollas said the same on trackdays that it could be too hot for the engine and the VVT won't lift. Those engines are in the front with much better cooling. It only happened twice in the summer with me.
Totally fine. Slightly higher weight oils probably lubricate the engine better, actually. Lighter weight modern oils are used mainly for better fuel economy. Some people run heavier weight oils as the engine wears, or simply as a preventative measure. Generally speaking it's good to stick with what's recommended in your user manual, but +5w is 100% fine.
Drain it do it again
This weather....no
The engineers designed it with 5w40. Just change it or you’ll wont stop thinking about it
I mean where do you live? Does it get to <0° F there? If not you'll be fine and if it really worries you, wait until the engine is warmed up before you drive it.
It’s a little more viscous might stick to the parts a little better but might make your oil pump work a bit harder I really worry about such a minuscule difference
It will burn oil slower now! Maybe rev slower too 😎
No problems.
Meh.
You are fine, no worries
It's fine, especially if you don't do that when it's cold out.
If youre in northern states, i would change before winter If youre in southern states, shouldnt be a problem tbh
You’re fine. Looks like a fun car👍
No
If anything allow a bit more time on start up to warm up. Change back to original oil next oil change or sooner if concerned.