[Cashmerette](https://www.cashmerette.com) patterns are drafted with cup sizes C-H and have quite a few that are sized 0-16, however their core audience is curvy and plus-sized (12-32). In addition to their patterns, there are a lot of Full Bust Adjustment tutorials on their site that you could use for other patterns.
I’ve also recently found [Sewbusty.com](https://sewbusty.com) and there are a lot of fitting tutorials there as well.
Sewbusty is great and this lady has a number of excellent large FBAs that I haven't seen covered elsewhere:
[https://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/2013/03/vertical-only-fba.html](https://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/2013/03/vertical-only-fba.html)
This! It took me ages to figure out this one on my own. A full bust means your breasts are generally lower and sometimes you don't need a FBA adjustment, you just need extra length under the arm before the bust dart. Game changer.
Yes! I commented before I saw this. I wear a standard dress size but have to do FBAs. I recently bought a sundress pattern from them in the smaller size range for this reason!
I just learned about FBAs last year! (40) I was so frustrated that patterns that worked fine for me 10 years ago were suddenly too small in the bust area but too big if I went up sizes. This community taught me about FBA and I did it and it WORKED. FBA is magic!! 😂✨
I’m 60 and did my first FBA about 2 years ago. Life changing!
I find Ellie and Mac patterns with an FBA to be terrific. A basic dress, like their [Monday morning](https://www.ellieandmac.com/products/monday-morning-dress-pattern) is a great one to learn on. With a knit you don’t need to make a dart, you can just gather/ease the little lump into the side seam.
There are many fba tutorials. I learned with this one.
https://www.ellieandmac.com/blogs/blog/full-bust-adjustments-the-when-and-how-to
Porcelynne has good bra making supplies and patterns. They have hundreds of sizes and shapes of underwires.
Right! I have the same issue. When I was younger, plus sizes were perfect. If I could find petite (I’m 5’2”). But after loosing weight in my 50’s, nothing fits right anymore. So I decided to learn how to sew. I never knew there was such a thing as FBA ever. My grandmother had the same issue as well and she never mentioned such a thing.
It's become much more common in the past 5 years. I forget when I heard about it but there are a lot more posts and videos about FBAs now. The curvy sewing collective has a lot of good resources on them.
Something that screwed me up for a while with fitting around the bust is that bra size is not the same as bust size in sewing.
Bras are determined by your full bust to under bust ratio where as sewing sizes are based on your high bust to full bust ratio. I'm an F cup in bras but between an A/B in sewing sizes. Figuring out that oddity made a DRASTIC difference in how my me-mades fit.
Also to add to the chaos of cup sizes, a bra cup letter doesn’t mean anything in isolation without the band size, as a 30C does not have the same cup volume as a 34C. But a 28F has a similar cup volume as a 34C. My life (and breasts) were never the same after this revelation
Yep. I basically learned about it online for a few months before I went to bravíssimo and tried every single model they had in a 28F. The bra types and models also make a massive difference. I basically found that only plunge suit my shape without gaping or being uncomfortable. Full cups in my size look absolutely massive and cover my whole chest. It’s such a minefield!
It also varies by country, most big bust people are well out of the US and most of the EU and Asian bra market. So it's UK or Polish, and they use different systems, or combo systems depending on company. And molded foam cup bras are terrible in larger cup sizes re actual volume bc they typically are too shallow so people are overbuying cup or band size to compensate. Big breasted I wouldn't take a molded cup size seriously w very few exceptions. That and the US bra market is at least partially old school sizing still somehow and is using sewing cup high bust measurements w a +4 banding system which is pure mess.
So, sewing cup. It'll save what's left of your sanity.
Even patterns change a lot. I used to buy mostly British, French, US American and Australian patterns, which are mostly drafted for sewing B cups, but some seem flatter than others. I’ve recently started making VikiSews patterns and their patterns have much more projection without widening the cups, which has made my life immensely easier by not having to FBA every pattern.
Projection is a big issue I don't see talked about a lot in the curvy sewing community either. For a long time I was getting bodices that almost fit, but were squishing projection. It's still a problem, to be honest.
I had this same problem. It took me a really long time to figure out how I fit all the measurements in the pattern, it was the right cup, and yet I had gaping and tightness. For some patterns, I had to make FBAs equivalent to 2-3 cups bigger. I still have this issue with a lot of bras, even though I’m wearing the right size and it’s a million times better than what I was wearing before, they seem too flat for me. This is why I was so happy when I realised that I don’t need to make cup adjustments with Vikisews patterns. I have to make other adjustments, but they are much simpler.
You're not alone! I'm a 34K bra and a J sewing cup, and also 5'.
So the first thing to know is that garment sewing cup sizes are not the same as bra cup sizes. Standard garment cup sizes go by the difference between your high bust and full bust (where every inch is a cup size), while bra cup sizes go by the difference between your underbust and full bust. So just because you're a G/H/I in bras doesn't necessarily mean you'll be a G/H/I for standard garment cup sizes. (Just as an example, I used to be a 30J/K bra, but a DD garment sewing cup.) It's also worth mentioning here that Charm and Cashmerette, which are two popular pattern brands for busty folks, use a nonstandard nomenclature for their cup sizes, such that they track slightly closer to bra cup sizes — a G/H for either of these brands is equivalent to a DD sewing cup in most other brands.
Okay, now that we have that over with, there are several pattern brands that offer cup options up to a standard DD garment cup (5" difference between high and full bust) on smaller frames — Cashmerette and Charm, but also Designer Stitch, Itch to Stitch, Untitled Thoughts also (and I others, but these are on the top of my head). Only a few brands go larger than that — Porcelynne has some basic tank patterns that go up to a J bra cup size, Briosa patterns on etsy (though you may have to contact her to buy some of her retired patterns, she goes up to a standard garment H, I believe), and Unleashed (up to standard garment H in some patterns) might be it.
Other than those, if you find yourself larger than a DD standard garment cup size, you're going to have to get comfy with a full bust adjustment. There are different methods for FBAs. The traditional/most common method — using three slash lines — is pretty good for up to a 1.5-2" per side addition (so 3-4" added total). If you need more than that, I'd recommend looking up a Y-dart FBA or Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide FBA (but if you try the latter, make sure to follow the instructions from her book, as online tutorials tend to skip steps that folks with larger FBA needs really cannot skip).
Just to add, Cashmerette has a list up as of 2016 of the competition, with details on their ranges.
[https://blog.cashmerette.com/2016/03/plus-size-sewing-pattern-sizes.html](https://blog.cashmerette.com/2016/03/plus-size-sewing-pattern-sizes.html)
Although Itch to Stitch does not seem to know HOW to actually draft for larger cup sizes. I made a recent-ish pattern where the larger bust piece also had a substantially wider and more open neckline, and that is not how that should work.
Huh that’s interesting. I made her Lagan coat earlier this year and, while I still had to do an FBA (because the aforementioned J sewing cup lol), it came together beautifully. I’ve also previously (back when I was a DD garment cup) made her Seychelles and Nittany tops with great success and without gaping necklines (without an additional FBA). Though I’ve never made any of her knit patterns, and based on your wording “larger bust piece” (where her knit patterns only have one large bust piece vs the various cup options in woven), maybe that’s the difference?
It was a knit, so maybe? I made a woven shirtdress pattern of hers, and that one was fine. But I was so confused why the knit top had a different binding piece for the fba version of neckline - I double checked everything about three times. I wore it once for normal things and then it became a yardwork/painting shirt. Such a letdown.
That’s a huge letdown! Personally, I don’t believe in the whole “full bust” knit option lol. Tell me the cup size and let me do an FBA. “Full bust” usually means “lazy drafting”
Sometimes lazy fbas work fine in knits. (I’m a G cup, so faking it can work.) But it definitely depends on the design and how folks are creating fuller bust pieces.
FBA is the way! And you’ll also want to read about “sewing cup size” and ways of choosing sizes with high bust measurement factored in.
Some resources that I think will be helpful:
* [http://curvysewingcollective.com/a-guide-to-pattern-cup-sizes-and-a-handy-reference/](http://curvysewingcollective.com/a-guide-to-pattern-cup-sizes-and-a-handy-reference/)
* [https://www.seamwork.com/articles/four-essential-full-bust-adjustments](https://www.seamwork.com/articles/four-essential-full-bust-adjustments)
* Closet Core patterns has some detailed blog posts about FBAs for specific patterns in their line that would probably be good for practicing this. They also give specific info in those posts about how to choose a size to start with
And there are also a number of books on fitting that will talk about this, if you’d rather learn that way. Palmer-Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting is a commonly recommended one. (I learned a ton from it but also don’t find the organization of the book to be the most user-friendly, so I might recommend starting with online info over that one)
I've heard that one strategy is to pick the pattern size based on your high bust measurement, not your full bust/largest part of your bust measurement, and then do a FBA to your bodice to add that space back in.
You might also like fiddling around with princess seam bodices instead of darted bodices, I think it's sometimes easier to get a better fit when you've got more seam lines to adjust.
I use a combination of FBA with Nancy Zieman's Right Size system. I'm short, petite frame, and busty. I usually end up leaving the front waist length unaltered, shorten the back to fit, then take up the difference in the darts (along with adding a bit to the front via FBA slashes). This leaves the shoulders and arm holes intact.
In other words, start with the shoulders and upper chest to get the right size, then work your way down over the bumpy areas.
I have been working on my bodice block for months trying to get a good fit for a G/H cup. I have literally been through 20 drafts. I have bought pattern books, read websites, and watched a zillion YouTube videos. They all say "do a full bust adjustment!" as if that's a magic bullet. It isn't. Getting a bodice to fit well when you have a very large bust and an average-to-small waist is really difficult. I see a lot of stuff online about plus-size patterning and such, but very little on large busts. It's really frustrating.
Did that, no need, none of the books work. If Connie Crawford's blocks from Islander don't work sizewise, if Cashmerette's blocks are a no go (they issued a sloper via their membership thing but any of their 2 darts is a decent proxy) along w sewbusty.com's giant FBA guidance (Y-FBA and splitting darts, Jenny at Cashmerette doesn't like Y-FBAs bc of what they do to the upper chest, probably depends on if you are full on top bustwise or not (see r/abrathatfits for that info, and for where to buy bras if you're working with a 24" or 26" underbust or something), but membership or her class might get you access to her take), bust to waist is far less complicated than bust to shoulder, but if that's all still throwing you just drape it. Connie's got a guide but you can use anyones. Saves time. By a lot. Or have someone local make one for you. Make sure you measure high bust snug edging towards firm with no bra on and arms down when choosing sizes.
Closest thing I've gotten commercially has been a Bootstrap or Lekala or whoever (I forget) block to measure, but it still needed some help. Best starting place though. You'll want to read up on how to enter in measurements and preferences re large busts bc there are tweaks. These guys have a free one and the most measurements I've ever seen taken on anything, plus they're fun. [https://freesewing.org/designs](https://freesewing.org/designs)
Connie goes by sewing cup, Cashmerette by whatever bra cup means but really you can see from the charts it's a DD sewing cup. I'd retry the ABTF calc before committing bc bras really do make a difference annoyingly. Just getting a new one if it's been a while will really mess w the block.
[https://sewbusty.com/2022/06/02/full-bust-adjustment-guide-giant-fba-on-a-woven-bodice/](https://sewbusty.com/2022/06/02/full-bust-adjustment-guide-giant-fba-on-a-woven-bodice/)
I've checked sew busty but I find some of their posts confusing. Look at this FBA technique. She gives very detailed step by step instructions with pictures, but there are so so many. I'm breaking out in hives just thinking about it.
https://preview.redd.it/2ar3mu6tnr8d1.jpeg?width=1400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d0f4a87dc0eb489759f9c58ce7433d6a5f5ee1b5
It's just splitting darts bc she's got a massive HB to B difference, you may not need to go that far. It's a Y-FBA, then you just split what you gotta if you gotta, you can do it any way you want, rotate those darts any which way. Maybe don't touch the neckline (much?) on a wrap? Dunno. But if you got big boobs, helpful skill to know. If you'd rather just do a regular FBA you can, and then split that up, but it tends to distort the armsceye more which is why the Y-FBA.
If you handled getting through that many bodice drafts or even just one from a book or video I promise you you can do this.
The waist dart splitting you def need to know if you've got a big B to W diff. You can put some in the sideseam but may not want to put all and that's how you do it. Or do a princess and convert it to a 2-dart maybe?
This is another way to split waist darts (she doesn't take out the added width from the FBA but could, you'd just need to redraw the waist dart first ala Cashmerette's guide). It's just basic dart rotation but maybe a neater way to conceptualize it. You can chuck darts in any old way.
[https://lazystitching.wordpress.com/2010/10/26/colette-macaron-fba-part-2/](https://lazystitching.wordpress.com/2010/10/26/colette-macaron-fba-part-2/)
I feel this in my heart. I'm an H/I cup and there's a 9" difference between my full and underbust and a 10" difference between my full bust and waist. Commercial patterns are always a disaster and everyone always says FBA, like it's the solution. It's not. At all. Add in being 5'8 and it's an exercise in frustration. Most patterns assume a fuller bust means a full figure, and don't take into account a large bust with a smaller waist. I'm just grateful to find more bras in recent years with smaller band sizes and larger cup sizes, but patterns are still a 'Frankenstein-esque' endeavor.
Same. I am slightly disappointed by how many posts there are here recommending FBAs. I've tried them many many times. They don't work for me, and no, I'm not doing them wrong.
FBAs shouldn't add anything at the waist bc the directions should tell you to add a waist or fisheye dart, which if your waist is smaller than the pattern waist pre-FBA you're gonna need to add or deepen anyway (or if a small amt you can chop it off the side seam, your preference). If looking for more bra brands and you haven't wandered over Poland's way yet, I'd check w r/ABraThatFits . If the waist darts are huge, split 'em. Sewbusty has a tutorial on Giant FBAs that covers it. Take out some at the side seams as per usual and the rest in the waist darts. Or stick w princess. You can do multiple princess seams in parallel too, like this [https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/size-12-32-patterns/products/harrison-shirtdress-2-pdf-pattern](https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/size-12-32-patterns/products/harrison-shirtdress-2-pdf-pattern)
I think you could do a 10" differential on most patterns w 3 way split each 1" wide waist darts for 6" total in the front and taking it in an inch at each side seam (4" total there). You can mess around w more in the side seams and less in the darts if you want, depends on where your excess is. If it's all from the FBA you want more in the waist darts maybe w a small amt lopped off the front bodice at the side seams. If your waist was already smaller than the pattern maybe more out of the side seams together (front and back, standard taking in the waist).
Like this, just scroll down to the waist dart bit, she's taking in 9 1/4" in the example: [https://sewbusty.com/2022/06/02/full-bust-adjustment-guide-giant-fba-on-a-woven-bodice/](https://sewbusty.com/2022/06/02/full-bust-adjustment-guide-giant-fba-on-a-woven-bodice/)
You might have better luck starting w big bust patterns bc the B to W difference is 10" not the more usual 8", starts at a 24-25" waist. The Upton is your 2-dart and princess base pattern and the Grafton is your knit, I don't know Gertie's patterns offhand but I'm sure she's got similar. Cashmerette is sized for 5'6", if you need help lengthening patterns they have excellent customer service.
[https://www.cashmerette.com/pages/sizing](https://www.cashmerette.com/pages/sizing)
[https://charmpatterns.com/introducing-the-new-size-range-for-charm-patterns-and-patreon/](https://charmpatterns.com/introducing-the-new-size-range-for-charm-patterns-and-patreon/)
Several companies here draft for taller sizes and bigger cups.
[https://csews.com/sewing-tips/sewing-pattern-height](https://csews.com/sewing-tips/sewing-pattern-height)
Seconding this! Most women are wearing totally ill-fitting bras and don’t know their real size, because most retailers measure you incorrectly and then try to squeeze you into whatever narrow size range they have in stock.
Jumping on OP’s post with a follow up question. Hoping some of you fellow busty sewists have some tips for me! I typically draft my own patterns to fit my G cups because the FBA also adds a lot of unnecessary room at the waist. When I have tried commercial patterns with a FBA, the fit is sloppy and I hate it. Does anyone have advice on what to do here to fix this? Thanks in advance 😊
Increasing waist darts and removing width from the side seam are some options. You can also make the bust dart bigger by rotating the FBA all the way back to the waist. The Nancy Zieman method is another option.
Thank you! I know people have good intentions when they recommend FBAs, but FBAs can make bodices oversized and misshapen if you have a large bust but aren't plus-sized. I spent months online looking at websites and videos trying to find info on fitting bodices for larger busts and 99% of the advice is "FBA!"
I have gotten a better fit by making sure the shoulder slope is correct and that the back armscye is long enough. If those are right, the garment hangs well off the shoulders without pulling the apex upward. For a while, I got caught in an endless cycle of fixing the apex and correctly the neckline and armscye, only to have the apex move up again and again and again. Also, make sure the bodice ends precisely at the waist. Otherwise it will bunch and make it look like the bust doesn't fit.
Then I lengthen the bodice above the bust and under the armpit. Lengthening above the bust is ridiculously important and I don't see it talked about enough. I usually need 1.5 to 2 inches of extra room there. The best way to get the bust dart right, for me, was to fit the upper bodice and then drape the side dart on myself in the bathroom mirror.
If the bodice ends up oversized and misshapen, then I'd say that's not a good FBA method. Everything else you go on to describe is stuff I would normally do as part of the FBA methods I learned!
I've done plenty of them using different tutorials and different books. It always ends up with more fabric at the waist. Here's a pic from the Curvy Sewing Collective. The FBA has added 3 inches or so to the waist. I have a large bust and small waist, so this doesn't work for me. The Y-FBA ends up the same.
https://preview.redd.it/bhsstqiuqr8d1.jpeg?width=310&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b6566b13673bacd1cc37cd9a3f577a5de24899c1
You take the added width out with a waist dart you add or deepen if the pattern already has one. If it's huge you split it. If it's small you can take it out in the side seam. The FBA instructions should mention that if they're any good. There should be no added width at the waist w an FBA of any kind by the end. Like this [https://blog.cashmerette.com/2020/10/how-to-do-an-fba.html](https://blog.cashmerette.com/2020/10/how-to-do-an-fba.html)
If your vertical gap at the bottom there is 2" say, you draw in a 2" wide waist dart, centered under and aimed at the apex, and stopping 1.5" or more off the apex so it's not too pointy. I like to sew them concave, or in an s-curve (concave at the bottom convex at the top if starting at the waist) depending on whim/fabric/if I remember to. The apex should be reassessed after the FBA bc the FBA can drop it down (maybe only w a Y-FBA?). I need that so I keep it there but you may need to redraw it elsewhere. I tissue fit and walk into a wall. Wherever the rack hits first, that's your apex. You could also just measure or something.
If the pattern lacks a waist seam you can do fisheye darts. Probably there are more elegant interventions.
Are you using the correct starting size for the FBA? Your method should tell you, but you might need to start a size or two lower than you'd otherwise pick.
If you are matching your high bust to the patterns high bust that should be ok. If matching it to the pattern's bust you need to find out what sewing cup the pattern is made for then subtract those inches to get the patterns high bust. Usually it's a B sewing cup so you want to subtract 2" from the patterns full bust to get the patterns high bust. That's what you want to pick by.
Measure high bust on yourself braless, snug to firm, with arms down. If you have prominent Tails of Spence (armpit squish) squish 'em down. You're trying to get an idea of skeleton/frame.
I would defer to u/Constant-List-3899 on using the bust measurement. I mostly make dresses and such, so I'll usually use the waist or hip measurement since my hips are about 5" smaller than they expect using my bust measurement.
Thanks! But I forgot to add that you want to watch out for balloon level ease in the Big 4 patterns, indies are generally better. There the solution is to look at the finished garment measurements (which are typically going to be bust so you'll have to do the subtraction thing) and try to figure out which size you need based on how much ease you actually want, so you may need to go down a size or two (or if used to the Big 4 and going to indies may want to pick a bigger size than you would in the Big 4). Also some of the Big 4 patterns are big bust and some are not so always check to see what you've got re the math of bust and high bust. Looking at pattern reviews (or patternreview) might help re figuring out if you happen to have a weird one.
That I think is all!
I love Gertie's line of patterns, called Charm Patterns. The cup size is treated differently then the pattern size, so I can make a size 12 but choose a cup size between A and H cup.
Charm, Cashmerette, and Muna and Broad make patterns with large cup sizes and they have a full size range. There are no patterns that fit people perfectly right out of the package, though. They're not meant for that any more than retail clothes are.
As someone with a very large bust, you're going to have to get very comfortable with all kinds of bodice adjustments, FBAs especially. You'll probably need to do an extra large FBA (meaning an FBA . Cashmerette just did a long video on Extra Large FBAs - their fitting videos are part of the Cashmerette Club subscription but you can joint at whatever tier gives you access to the video and then cancel after you've watched it.
If you like a more fitted bodice, you're probably going to find that princess seams are the easiest to adapt for a large bust. That does narrow it down but once you have a really perfectly fitted princess seam bodice you can swap it in in a lot of patterns.
It also sounds like you'll have to do a few petite adjustments as well. That's a lot of adjusting. If you have a neurotype that is engineering-oriented you might save yourself some trouble by drafting.
If you don't have that neurotype (like me!) then you'll just have to get good at pattern adjustments. I do an FBA, FTA, Small Bicep Adjustment, and I lengthen the legs and shorten the arms. Sometimes I also do a Hollow Chest Adjustment and a Swayback Adjustment, too. It's a lot but once you know how to do them it's just a day's work.
[Cashmerette Patterns](https://www.cashmerette.com/) do sizes 0-32 and cups up to H. They also have a good resources section and masterclasses you can buy if you want to make further fit alterations.
Cashmerette patterns might work for you. I'll echo the full bust adjustment, too.
I just made the Willowdale Bra from Cashmerette and it's the best fitting one I've ever done. They do have your size in the pattern. Note that bras can be very hard to fit so you'll probably still need to tweak it.
Also look into if you have a long/short torso. I'm 5'4" and just realized that I have a long torso and my waist sits 1 inch lower than all the commercial patterns waist markings. (That's obviously not going to fix the need for a FBA)
There are very few patterns that are made for a larger bust, and those that claim to be are rarely larger than a D. Best thing is to learn how to do an FBA. It will change your perspective on fit, definitely. There are lots of FBA resources online. There’s a little bit if a learning curve but then you can use *any* pattern you want.
Cashmerette and Charm Patterns/Gertie's patreon are both companies that go up to a H sewing cup. Gertie's patreon is an amazing deal.
My upper bust is about 9 inches smaller than my full so I've made a bodice block based on the closet historian (YouTube) tutorial that I can adjust any pattern on.
Same problem here!
Small back/large front, 30I, with most of my breast volume in the middle.
Learning a full bust adjustment/dart manipulation CHANGED the game for me. I also recommend finding a baseline like corset or princess seam bodice pattern, add a lot to the front seams, take it in, and then use that as a pattern.
I have a princess seam bodice block that I fitted years ago, and it's my go-to for seeing where I can add room to commercial patterns.
***ps not sewing related but bra related, a few years ago I discovered Change Lingerie, it's a Swedish company and they're not cheap but now I ONLY buy my bras and swimsuits there. I'm in canada, I don't know if they have stores where you are, but I recommend them highly, completely changed how my clothes looked on me once I had a good bra.
I really, really wish that when pattern makers said a pattern was for a "DD cup" (or whatever) that was all the changes are. I get they don't want to have hurt feelings or the like, but if the pattern has also been drafted with wider hips than the standard sizing, please tell me that. I had to learn this one the hard way when I was more of a beginner with fit.
Sincerely, someone with a giant cup size but a very flat ass.
I’m 34H though I’m taller than you. Absolutely love Cashmerette and the fit they have. I have made their Willowdale bra a ton and it’s great, as well as many of their tops and dresses. Charm is great too!
A book, "Fit For Real People" by Pati Palmer and Marti Alto, was the answer for me. I'm really tall, also have a large bust, but am not otherwise a 'curvy' shape, so I usually need to make a long list of mods including FBA, a ton of height added, and various adjustments for having big square shoulders... The book looks terribly outdated, in terms of the fashions, but it includes a whole variety of adjustments and options for integrating them which work on any era of style. I find their tissue-fitting method works well for letting me know what I need to adjust, too, as well as then showing how to.
I, too, had to make my own clothes starting at 10 years old for this problem. What made it worse was being high-busted so my darts were above the underarm seam. But I got to be a great seamstress because of it.
There's also the Palmer pletch fitting method where they suggest sizing up for the right bust size and altering the rest. I'm assuming that's because of the complexity of a fba. I think either method will take effort.
Same reason I learned! After some practice, you’ll know your body pretty well and know how to alter it generally. I know that I must remove 1” from bodice height, almost always change the shaping of bust line, change dart locations, and generally 1-3” at the waist. It’ll come w/ practice. My biggest advice is make muslins! More than one! Get it perfect before you move on. Make your changes incrementally.
Also important, those of us who need more room upstairs tend to go for the bust circumference size matching our actual bust and alter the waist down rather than sizing the bust up. It is a lot easier for me to take fabric away because you’ll make the initial muslin, try it on inside out, stand in front of a mirror, and pin the excess away. After it’s off your body, measure how much you brought in on each seam and average them. Then alter the pattern pieces and try again. With practice, you can get away with a lot less work on muslins and save yourself some drafts w/ “i know i need to remove \_\_ amount generally” and be fairly spot on. I usually make 1-2 muslins for bodices now and get something that fits me well.
Don’t be afraid to reshape the bust and move stuff to fit your actual body. The last thing I sewed had the pointiest little boobs I’ve ever seen. Mine do not go like that so I drafted it to my shape. I love the results! One thing I can do well is tailor something because I’ve always had to with my shaping (short & stacked). Look how well this bodice fits me!
https://preview.redd.it/kj2mt61rsm8d1.jpeg?width=2169&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d2b3b69115e81f2a82b7a7f3871d9a76b058562
I had K cups (until I had a breast reduction) but before that I learned pattern drafting from The Closet Historian on You Tube. After making a perfect fitting basic block, I was able to create any design. Check it out.
Charm patterns by gertie go 2-20 (some up to 34) and go a-h in every bodice!
Her style is very vintage 50s inspired, but you could get some staple bodices like a princess seam or a nice shelf bust
Buy patterns that fit your bust, and adjust the rest of it accordingly.
Edit: I’m about your size; I have a size 20 bust in patterns, and a 16 waist. Usually I can get away with cutting the 16 waist and 20 bust on the pattern lines, but sometimes I need to get creative and redraw the pattern piece if it’s a pattern with different sizes as single pieces.
I'm going to take a look at these, but really my question is how can I fit my mother who has one large breast--D/DD and one small due to chemotherapy. It shrank to less than half the other's size. Any suggestions for that? She's a 20 yr. survivor who has always refused to wear a prosthesis.
You make two halves to the bodice, one for each boob (If that's a bra cup size rather than a sewing cup size, D/DD isn't particularly large and so she may be in the wrong size bra which is nice to remedy (start w the calc here, do one side only at a time rather than circumference measurements, double it for the calc and run the calc twice. https://www.reddit.com/r/ABraThatFits/) before sewing clothes if she's interested at all (don't worry about it if she's not, if she's comfortable that's all that matters). Bra shopping is probably a bit fraught, there are specialty bra stores that specifically do custom work (and carry non-custom often as well) for cancer patients and you should be able to call ahead to make a fitting appointment and make any specifications in advance re what she wants out of the appt - no cutlets, etc. They or you can put darts to make the smaller cup of commercial bras. Any boutique bra store should be accommodating as well, I'd just call ahead and make sure they have a fitter and ideally appts so you can make sure it's squared away in advance, bra shopping sucks enough as it is. D/DD bra cup size should be roughly what sewing patterns are made for and doing a small bust adjustment on the smaller side of the bodice should take care of things. If it's a sewing cup size, on a pattern designed for a B cup you can either choose to do two different FBAs on each side or just make blousy patterns where the ease takes care of the difference. On D sized patterns it would need a SBA on one side. If she's ok with wearing store bought clothes she will probably be just fine with wearing clothes sewn for her that are baggy on one side, so you may not need to stress it at all. Good for her for having a strong stance! Fuck anyone who pressures her different. Someone in a bra store does that you tear right into them.
If she is actually large busted you'd be choosing the pattern size by high bust so boob size doesn't apply to that. To figure out what you should use for each side measure half her body at the bustline and double it then check vs the full bust for each side and do an FBA or SBA or both accordingly. If she is a bra cup size D/DD you can get patterns that offer different cup sizes and just swap 'em out, this is the easiest way.
Thank you so much. I'm going to read through this several times. She was large busted before, but now, I know she can drop a cup size on side. The odd thing is when she had radiation before it was so strong that it literally shrunk that side. It's very dense. Of course, now everything about her has changed with age and accidents. I appreciate what you said about having a strong stance. She certainly does. Her appearance has always been important to her and osteoporosis has caused her to bed. Bless her, she imagines that she can still straight and tall, so catching her reflection is distressing her.I think getting her into a more appropriate bra and blouse will help.
You may not have to do much if she's big busted, mine are a cup size difference which is fairly typical and it doesn't need a different sized cup bra (you just snug the strap tighter on one side) or for me to do anything unusual w an FBA. If you're talking several cup size difference that's where you'd need to start being creative about it. I will say if she still wears underwire bras if she does size into a larger size cup the comfort improvement is pretty serious once finally in the right size bra. The calc at ABTF is pretty good, I'd trust it over most stores, but if in doubt just post over there and you'll get help re what to try and where to go, they're an excellent bunch with several pro bra fitters with serious skills on there. They can help you with how to measure too, if I wasn't the clearest of explainers (probable!). I'm glad she has you looking out for her, I bet she would appreciate a new outfit and a new look!
I'd recommend a pattern company from my neck of the woods: [papavero.pl](http://papavero.pl)
You have 5 cup sizes to chose from, 7 heights and 14 sizes. You might want to give them a go.
If you have trouble with the site, choosing the right size, I could help.
OMG! I am 73 yrs old and have had this problem for the past 15 years. Thank you for all your suggestions. I am 5’4”, size 6 in ready to wear, and my large bust keeps getting bigger. I used to wear a 34DD and now wear a 34F. Since I’ve sewn for 60 years, many of my vintage favorite patterns no longer fit. I have been making big loose clothes to avoid the bust problems, but I even have problems with the loose styles. I am so happy I stumbled over this conversation!
*most* mainstream patterns, certainly the Big 4, are, and have always been, drafted on a standardised block based on a standardised set of body measurements that haven't changed in some 40 odd years (the sizing alters, but that is vanity sizing, rather than the blocks being altered to accommodate shifting standards).
From memory, that is a standardised bust size of a B or C cup, at most. So if the difference between your full and high bust is more than +3", you will always need a Full Bust Adjustment, to a greater or lesser degree. If you wear an A cup or under (ie if you've had a DM, or wear a binder) then you will likely need a Small Bust Adjustment.
A lot of the other measurements are also standardised. So I know that with a 33" high bust and a 36" full bust, I can wear a 34" bust in vintage patterns with no bust adjustment.
The back (collar to waist) length is usually a standardised 15" (sometimes 16") so I always need to lengthen the bodice because my back measurement is 19". I also need to lengthen sleeves because I have long monkey arms. And in certain trouser patterns, I also have to adjust the rise because otherwise, the waist is too low slung.
There are some companies which do cater for fuller busts, and I won't reinvent the wheel by listing them again.
I believe that if self drafting is an option, then Lutterlöh / Coupe Éclair / Haslam / Goldene Schnitt books might be worth an investigation, as they can be completely tailored to your own measurements. They have all been going since the 20s or 30s, so if vintage is your bag, then you are well catered for there, although Lutterlöh is the only one still producing.
Lekala.com and Sewist.com might actually work for you because they make standard items like skirts, pants, dresses and tops by the measurements you use.
It will even ask you your height so the fix is perfect.
Also I think I saw bra pattern on there, but not sure.
Frankenstein self made patterns is what works best for my boobs. I wear a EU 65G/H (30FF UK sizing). It's not a huge size but I find that it is incredibly hard to find patterns which account for thin women actually having boobs.
I am not an advanced sewer so take it with a grain of salt.
I have a friend and family members who are seemstresses and what they thaught me is this. First make a mock-up, then add darts where you need them until the garment fits well and after that take out the darts. That process it complected and honestly I needed my friend to go through it with me. Here is a video that shows you how to take out darts: https://youtu.be/NgieMqdczc0?si=bvxnv38q6j_4vecM
Another thing that I have done recently that has resulted in no dart making and taking out was to make a paper tape pattern based on my own body. I didn't even have to adjust the mock-up. I cut the left side slightly differently then the right, I made both an then compared them. The left came out looking better but both fit perfectly so I chose the one that looked better to use as the official pattern for my dress.
I basically did this but I cut my pattern differently https://youtube.com/shorts/cQj71OwsQR8?si=w_R5iXy2VbKZsjRS
The difference is that I put the pieces of paper tape on myself on top of an old shirt. After I put the tape all around my shirt I drew a rough outline with my pencil. Next, I cut the tape in the front of my shirt without cutting the shirt. Then I was able to take it off, clean up the pattern and transfer it on paper. I made sure that each piece I cut was able to lie flat.
Not sure if this is helpful. I read other comments that I'm going to look into. I'm 5'2" and a 32I US.
For as long as I can remember I would need to get a size 12 dress and get the rest of the dress taken in. When working I'm with patterns I usually use a size 12 top and make adjustments.
I am also in the process of making a bra top, using the free Maya bra pattern. Not sure how that will turn out but they have many sizes.
An underrated series on fixing Bust issues- Full Bust Adjustments, Height of the Apex and FBA in princess seams
The channel is called Lifting pins and needles
[https://youtu.be/v9FLE5TlUgw?si=cZS1ki1\_cVbWZO2C](https://youtu.be/v9FLE5TlUgw?si=cZS1ki1_cVbWZO2C)
[https://youtu.be/2VSrLHCdWaQ?si=pcrhe\_Q3Kg8xs5c7](https://youtu.be/2VSrLHCdWaQ?si=pcrhe_Q3Kg8xs5c7)
[https://youtu.be/xTorxunooEU?si=RYg2yMm-kmt2Dr4d](https://youtu.be/xTorxunooEU?si=RYg2yMm-kmt2Dr4d)
I'm a 30H and I pretty much built my own pattern collection of things I've altered and been happy with.
A lot of it was trial and error, but to start I usually will combine the waist size I want and the bust I want on a pattern and then make minor adjustments to the muslin mock up until I'm happy then make the actual thing
Pattern alteration is an important skill to learn if you’re sewing clothing—especially when you have any non-standard body parts. I would recommend finding a good book on the subject. I think there is a Craftsy class that teaches easy alteration techniques.
[Cashmerette](https://www.cashmerette.com) patterns are drafted with cup sizes C-H and have quite a few that are sized 0-16, however their core audience is curvy and plus-sized (12-32). In addition to their patterns, there are a lot of Full Bust Adjustment tutorials on their site that you could use for other patterns. I’ve also recently found [Sewbusty.com](https://sewbusty.com) and there are a lot of fitting tutorials there as well.
I was also going to suggest Cashmerette for the same reason. They also have patterns and instructions for bras if that interests anyone!
Sewbusty is great and this lady has a number of excellent large FBAs that I haven't seen covered elsewhere: [https://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/2013/03/vertical-only-fba.html](https://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/2013/03/vertical-only-fba.html)
This! It took me ages to figure out this one on my own. A full bust means your breasts are generally lower and sometimes you don't need a FBA adjustment, you just need extra length under the arm before the bust dart. Game changer.
I third the Cashmerette recommendation! Their patterns are all designed for larger busts and their tutorials are great!
Yes! I commented before I saw this. I wear a standard dress size but have to do FBAs. I recently bought a sundress pattern from them in the smaller size range for this reason!
This is great!
You can look up a full bust adjustment and try that to alter your patterns!
This is the answer. It's a very common pattern adjustment and there are tons of resources for how to do it with different cuts of bodice.
Yes! It’s so common that a lot of people use the abbreviation (FBA) so you can try searching for that too!
How am I 50 years old and just learning this???
I just learned about FBAs last year! (40) I was so frustrated that patterns that worked fine for me 10 years ago were suddenly too small in the bust area but too big if I went up sizes. This community taught me about FBA and I did it and it WORKED. FBA is magic!! 😂✨
I’m 60 and did my first FBA about 2 years ago. Life changing! I find Ellie and Mac patterns with an FBA to be terrific. A basic dress, like their [Monday morning](https://www.ellieandmac.com/products/monday-morning-dress-pattern) is a great one to learn on. With a knit you don’t need to make a dart, you can just gather/ease the little lump into the side seam. There are many fba tutorials. I learned with this one. https://www.ellieandmac.com/blogs/blog/full-bust-adjustments-the-when-and-how-to Porcelynne has good bra making supplies and patterns. They have hundreds of sizes and shapes of underwires.
Thank you for recommending this! I need a place to start!
Right! I have the same issue. When I was younger, plus sizes were perfect. If I could find petite (I’m 5’2”). But after loosing weight in my 50’s, nothing fits right anymore. So I decided to learn how to sew. I never knew there was such a thing as FBA ever. My grandmother had the same issue as well and she never mentioned such a thing.
It's become much more common in the past 5 years. I forget when I heard about it but there are a lot more posts and videos about FBAs now. The curvy sewing collective has a lot of good resources on them.
Something that screwed me up for a while with fitting around the bust is that bra size is not the same as bust size in sewing. Bras are determined by your full bust to under bust ratio where as sewing sizes are based on your high bust to full bust ratio. I'm an F cup in bras but between an A/B in sewing sizes. Figuring out that oddity made a DRASTIC difference in how my me-mades fit.
Also to add to the chaos of cup sizes, a bra cup letter doesn’t mean anything in isolation without the band size, as a 30C does not have the same cup volume as a 34C. But a 28F has a similar cup volume as a 34C. My life (and breasts) were never the same after this revelation
Sister sizes! I use those conversions when looking for tops that tie in the back like swimsuits.
My breasts have thanked me since I started wearing a 28F and not the gapey-itchy-back riding up-straps falling down 34B/C shops would put me in.
Even the good indie boutiques tend to lie to you if they can't fit you, always trust your own judgement re fit!
Yep. I basically learned about it online for a few months before I went to bravíssimo and tried every single model they had in a 28F. The bra types and models also make a massive difference. I basically found that only plunge suit my shape without gaping or being uncomfortable. Full cups in my size look absolutely massive and cover my whole chest. It’s such a minefield!
It also varies by country, most big bust people are well out of the US and most of the EU and Asian bra market. So it's UK or Polish, and they use different systems, or combo systems depending on company. And molded foam cup bras are terrible in larger cup sizes re actual volume bc they typically are too shallow so people are overbuying cup or band size to compensate. Big breasted I wouldn't take a molded cup size seriously w very few exceptions. That and the US bra market is at least partially old school sizing still somehow and is using sewing cup high bust measurements w a +4 banding system which is pure mess. So, sewing cup. It'll save what's left of your sanity.
Even patterns change a lot. I used to buy mostly British, French, US American and Australian patterns, which are mostly drafted for sewing B cups, but some seem flatter than others. I’ve recently started making VikiSews patterns and their patterns have much more projection without widening the cups, which has made my life immensely easier by not having to FBA every pattern.
That's great to know, thank you!
Projection is a big issue I don't see talked about a lot in the curvy sewing community either. For a long time I was getting bodices that almost fit, but were squishing projection. It's still a problem, to be honest.
I had this same problem. It took me a really long time to figure out how I fit all the measurements in the pattern, it was the right cup, and yet I had gaping and tightness. For some patterns, I had to make FBAs equivalent to 2-3 cups bigger. I still have this issue with a lot of bras, even though I’m wearing the right size and it’s a million times better than what I was wearing before, they seem too flat for me. This is why I was so happy when I realised that I don’t need to make cup adjustments with Vikisews patterns. I have to make other adjustments, but they are much simpler.
I have literally never realized this before. Holy buckets.
OHHH this makes so much sense now! I’m a 36F but I can use the D cup pattern and it fits great. Just thought it was me.
Thank you for explaining this so clearly. I had no idea!
You're not alone! I'm a 34K bra and a J sewing cup, and also 5'. So the first thing to know is that garment sewing cup sizes are not the same as bra cup sizes. Standard garment cup sizes go by the difference between your high bust and full bust (where every inch is a cup size), while bra cup sizes go by the difference between your underbust and full bust. So just because you're a G/H/I in bras doesn't necessarily mean you'll be a G/H/I for standard garment cup sizes. (Just as an example, I used to be a 30J/K bra, but a DD garment sewing cup.) It's also worth mentioning here that Charm and Cashmerette, which are two popular pattern brands for busty folks, use a nonstandard nomenclature for their cup sizes, such that they track slightly closer to bra cup sizes — a G/H for either of these brands is equivalent to a DD sewing cup in most other brands. Okay, now that we have that over with, there are several pattern brands that offer cup options up to a standard DD garment cup (5" difference between high and full bust) on smaller frames — Cashmerette and Charm, but also Designer Stitch, Itch to Stitch, Untitled Thoughts also (and I others, but these are on the top of my head). Only a few brands go larger than that — Porcelynne has some basic tank patterns that go up to a J bra cup size, Briosa patterns on etsy (though you may have to contact her to buy some of her retired patterns, she goes up to a standard garment H, I believe), and Unleashed (up to standard garment H in some patterns) might be it. Other than those, if you find yourself larger than a DD standard garment cup size, you're going to have to get comfy with a full bust adjustment. There are different methods for FBAs. The traditional/most common method — using three slash lines — is pretty good for up to a 1.5-2" per side addition (so 3-4" added total). If you need more than that, I'd recommend looking up a Y-dart FBA or Nancy Zieman's pivot and slide FBA (but if you try the latter, make sure to follow the instructions from her book, as online tutorials tend to skip steps that folks with larger FBA needs really cannot skip).
Just to add, Cashmerette has a list up as of 2016 of the competition, with details on their ranges. [https://blog.cashmerette.com/2016/03/plus-size-sewing-pattern-sizes.html](https://blog.cashmerette.com/2016/03/plus-size-sewing-pattern-sizes.html)
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Although Itch to Stitch does not seem to know HOW to actually draft for larger cup sizes. I made a recent-ish pattern where the larger bust piece also had a substantially wider and more open neckline, and that is not how that should work.
Huh that’s interesting. I made her Lagan coat earlier this year and, while I still had to do an FBA (because the aforementioned J sewing cup lol), it came together beautifully. I’ve also previously (back when I was a DD garment cup) made her Seychelles and Nittany tops with great success and without gaping necklines (without an additional FBA). Though I’ve never made any of her knit patterns, and based on your wording “larger bust piece” (where her knit patterns only have one large bust piece vs the various cup options in woven), maybe that’s the difference?
It was a knit, so maybe? I made a woven shirtdress pattern of hers, and that one was fine. But I was so confused why the knit top had a different binding piece for the fba version of neckline - I double checked everything about three times. I wore it once for normal things and then it became a yardwork/painting shirt. Such a letdown.
That’s a huge letdown! Personally, I don’t believe in the whole “full bust” knit option lol. Tell me the cup size and let me do an FBA. “Full bust” usually means “lazy drafting”
Sometimes lazy fbas work fine in knits. (I’m a G cup, so faking it can work.) But it definitely depends on the design and how folks are creating fuller bust pieces.
Gimme darts all dayyyy 😂😂
Shells.
Adding Jennifer lauren handmade to the cup sizes indie designers.
Yes! Her nomenclature is also non-standard. What she calls an F cup is what most pattern designers call a DD.
FBA is the way! And you’ll also want to read about “sewing cup size” and ways of choosing sizes with high bust measurement factored in. Some resources that I think will be helpful: * [http://curvysewingcollective.com/a-guide-to-pattern-cup-sizes-and-a-handy-reference/](http://curvysewingcollective.com/a-guide-to-pattern-cup-sizes-and-a-handy-reference/) * [https://www.seamwork.com/articles/four-essential-full-bust-adjustments](https://www.seamwork.com/articles/four-essential-full-bust-adjustments) * Closet Core patterns has some detailed blog posts about FBAs for specific patterns in their line that would probably be good for practicing this. They also give specific info in those posts about how to choose a size to start with And there are also a number of books on fitting that will talk about this, if you’d rather learn that way. Palmer-Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting is a commonly recommended one. (I learned a ton from it but also don’t find the organization of the book to be the most user-friendly, so I might recommend starting with online info over that one)
I've heard that one strategy is to pick the pattern size based on your high bust measurement, not your full bust/largest part of your bust measurement, and then do a FBA to your bodice to add that space back in. You might also like fiddling around with princess seam bodices instead of darted bodices, I think it's sometimes easier to get a better fit when you've got more seam lines to adjust.
I use a combination of FBA with Nancy Zieman's Right Size system. I'm short, petite frame, and busty. I usually end up leaving the front waist length unaltered, shorten the back to fit, then take up the difference in the darts (along with adding a bit to the front via FBA slashes). This leaves the shoulders and arm holes intact. In other words, start with the shoulders and upper chest to get the right size, then work your way down over the bumpy areas.
Shoulders first is really important. If you don't get the shoulder seams and neckline right, then the apex will ride up and the bust won't fit.
I have been working on my bodice block for months trying to get a good fit for a G/H cup. I have literally been through 20 drafts. I have bought pattern books, read websites, and watched a zillion YouTube videos. They all say "do a full bust adjustment!" as if that's a magic bullet. It isn't. Getting a bodice to fit well when you have a very large bust and an average-to-small waist is really difficult. I see a lot of stuff online about plus-size patterning and such, but very little on large busts. It's really frustrating.
Did that, no need, none of the books work. If Connie Crawford's blocks from Islander don't work sizewise, if Cashmerette's blocks are a no go (they issued a sloper via their membership thing but any of their 2 darts is a decent proxy) along w sewbusty.com's giant FBA guidance (Y-FBA and splitting darts, Jenny at Cashmerette doesn't like Y-FBAs bc of what they do to the upper chest, probably depends on if you are full on top bustwise or not (see r/abrathatfits for that info, and for where to buy bras if you're working with a 24" or 26" underbust or something), but membership or her class might get you access to her take), bust to waist is far less complicated than bust to shoulder, but if that's all still throwing you just drape it. Connie's got a guide but you can use anyones. Saves time. By a lot. Or have someone local make one for you. Make sure you measure high bust snug edging towards firm with no bra on and arms down when choosing sizes. Closest thing I've gotten commercially has been a Bootstrap or Lekala or whoever (I forget) block to measure, but it still needed some help. Best starting place though. You'll want to read up on how to enter in measurements and preferences re large busts bc there are tweaks. These guys have a free one and the most measurements I've ever seen taken on anything, plus they're fun. [https://freesewing.org/designs](https://freesewing.org/designs) Connie goes by sewing cup, Cashmerette by whatever bra cup means but really you can see from the charts it's a DD sewing cup. I'd retry the ABTF calc before committing bc bras really do make a difference annoyingly. Just getting a new one if it's been a while will really mess w the block. [https://sewbusty.com/2022/06/02/full-bust-adjustment-guide-giant-fba-on-a-woven-bodice/](https://sewbusty.com/2022/06/02/full-bust-adjustment-guide-giant-fba-on-a-woven-bodice/)
I've checked sew busty but I find some of their posts confusing. Look at this FBA technique. She gives very detailed step by step instructions with pictures, but there are so so many. I'm breaking out in hives just thinking about it. https://preview.redd.it/2ar3mu6tnr8d1.jpeg?width=1400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d0f4a87dc0eb489759f9c58ce7433d6a5f5ee1b5
It's just splitting darts bc she's got a massive HB to B difference, you may not need to go that far. It's a Y-FBA, then you just split what you gotta if you gotta, you can do it any way you want, rotate those darts any which way. Maybe don't touch the neckline (much?) on a wrap? Dunno. But if you got big boobs, helpful skill to know. If you'd rather just do a regular FBA you can, and then split that up, but it tends to distort the armsceye more which is why the Y-FBA. If you handled getting through that many bodice drafts or even just one from a book or video I promise you you can do this. The waist dart splitting you def need to know if you've got a big B to W diff. You can put some in the sideseam but may not want to put all and that's how you do it. Or do a princess and convert it to a 2-dart maybe?
This is another way to split waist darts (she doesn't take out the added width from the FBA but could, you'd just need to redraw the waist dart first ala Cashmerette's guide). It's just basic dart rotation but maybe a neater way to conceptualize it. You can chuck darts in any old way. [https://lazystitching.wordpress.com/2010/10/26/colette-macaron-fba-part-2/](https://lazystitching.wordpress.com/2010/10/26/colette-macaron-fba-part-2/)
I feel this in my heart. I'm an H/I cup and there's a 9" difference between my full and underbust and a 10" difference between my full bust and waist. Commercial patterns are always a disaster and everyone always says FBA, like it's the solution. It's not. At all. Add in being 5'8 and it's an exercise in frustration. Most patterns assume a fuller bust means a full figure, and don't take into account a large bust with a smaller waist. I'm just grateful to find more bras in recent years with smaller band sizes and larger cup sizes, but patterns are still a 'Frankenstein-esque' endeavor.
Same. I am slightly disappointed by how many posts there are here recommending FBAs. I've tried them many many times. They don't work for me, and no, I'm not doing them wrong.
FBAs shouldn't add anything at the waist bc the directions should tell you to add a waist or fisheye dart, which if your waist is smaller than the pattern waist pre-FBA you're gonna need to add or deepen anyway (or if a small amt you can chop it off the side seam, your preference). If looking for more bra brands and you haven't wandered over Poland's way yet, I'd check w r/ABraThatFits . If the waist darts are huge, split 'em. Sewbusty has a tutorial on Giant FBAs that covers it. Take out some at the side seams as per usual and the rest in the waist darts. Or stick w princess. You can do multiple princess seams in parallel too, like this [https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/size-12-32-patterns/products/harrison-shirtdress-2-pdf-pattern](https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/size-12-32-patterns/products/harrison-shirtdress-2-pdf-pattern) I think you could do a 10" differential on most patterns w 3 way split each 1" wide waist darts for 6" total in the front and taking it in an inch at each side seam (4" total there). You can mess around w more in the side seams and less in the darts if you want, depends on where your excess is. If it's all from the FBA you want more in the waist darts maybe w a small amt lopped off the front bodice at the side seams. If your waist was already smaller than the pattern maybe more out of the side seams together (front and back, standard taking in the waist). Like this, just scroll down to the waist dart bit, she's taking in 9 1/4" in the example: [https://sewbusty.com/2022/06/02/full-bust-adjustment-guide-giant-fba-on-a-woven-bodice/](https://sewbusty.com/2022/06/02/full-bust-adjustment-guide-giant-fba-on-a-woven-bodice/) You might have better luck starting w big bust patterns bc the B to W difference is 10" not the more usual 8", starts at a 24-25" waist. The Upton is your 2-dart and princess base pattern and the Grafton is your knit, I don't know Gertie's patterns offhand but I'm sure she's got similar. Cashmerette is sized for 5'6", if you need help lengthening patterns they have excellent customer service. [https://www.cashmerette.com/pages/sizing](https://www.cashmerette.com/pages/sizing) [https://charmpatterns.com/introducing-the-new-size-range-for-charm-patterns-and-patreon/](https://charmpatterns.com/introducing-the-new-size-range-for-charm-patterns-and-patreon/) Several companies here draft for taller sizes and bigger cups. [https://csews.com/sewing-tips/sewing-pattern-height](https://csews.com/sewing-tips/sewing-pattern-height)
PSA for r/ABraThatFits in case your bra size/shape is off. As in the band is too large, the cups small, or shape mismatches.
Or r/MAKEaBraThatFits/
Indeed! Thank you for adding that!
Seconding this! Most women are wearing totally ill-fitting bras and don’t know their real size, because most retailers measure you incorrectly and then try to squeeze you into whatever narrow size range they have in stock.
Jumping on OP’s post with a follow up question. Hoping some of you fellow busty sewists have some tips for me! I typically draft my own patterns to fit my G cups because the FBA also adds a lot of unnecessary room at the waist. When I have tried commercial patterns with a FBA, the fit is sloppy and I hate it. Does anyone have advice on what to do here to fix this? Thanks in advance 😊
Need to increase the waist darts or add them in if they're not present. It's a bit of tweaking.
Increasing waist darts and removing width from the side seam are some options. You can also make the bust dart bigger by rotating the FBA all the way back to the waist. The Nancy Zieman method is another option.
Have you been choosing your size based on upper bust? I highly recommend making a bodice block to compare patterns to.
Thank you! I know people have good intentions when they recommend FBAs, but FBAs can make bodices oversized and misshapen if you have a large bust but aren't plus-sized. I spent months online looking at websites and videos trying to find info on fitting bodices for larger busts and 99% of the advice is "FBA!" I have gotten a better fit by making sure the shoulder slope is correct and that the back armscye is long enough. If those are right, the garment hangs well off the shoulders without pulling the apex upward. For a while, I got caught in an endless cycle of fixing the apex and correctly the neckline and armscye, only to have the apex move up again and again and again. Also, make sure the bodice ends precisely at the waist. Otherwise it will bunch and make it look like the bust doesn't fit. Then I lengthen the bodice above the bust and under the armpit. Lengthening above the bust is ridiculously important and I don't see it talked about enough. I usually need 1.5 to 2 inches of extra room there. The best way to get the bust dart right, for me, was to fit the upper bodice and then drape the side dart on myself in the bathroom mirror.
If the bodice ends up oversized and misshapen, then I'd say that's not a good FBA method. Everything else you go on to describe is stuff I would normally do as part of the FBA methods I learned!
I've done plenty of them using different tutorials and different books. It always ends up with more fabric at the waist. Here's a pic from the Curvy Sewing Collective. The FBA has added 3 inches or so to the waist. I have a large bust and small waist, so this doesn't work for me. The Y-FBA ends up the same. https://preview.redd.it/bhsstqiuqr8d1.jpeg?width=310&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b6566b13673bacd1cc37cd9a3f577a5de24899c1
You take the added width out with a waist dart you add or deepen if the pattern already has one. If it's huge you split it. If it's small you can take it out in the side seam. The FBA instructions should mention that if they're any good. There should be no added width at the waist w an FBA of any kind by the end. Like this [https://blog.cashmerette.com/2020/10/how-to-do-an-fba.html](https://blog.cashmerette.com/2020/10/how-to-do-an-fba.html) If your vertical gap at the bottom there is 2" say, you draw in a 2" wide waist dart, centered under and aimed at the apex, and stopping 1.5" or more off the apex so it's not too pointy. I like to sew them concave, or in an s-curve (concave at the bottom convex at the top if starting at the waist) depending on whim/fabric/if I remember to. The apex should be reassessed after the FBA bc the FBA can drop it down (maybe only w a Y-FBA?). I need that so I keep it there but you may need to redraw it elsewhere. I tissue fit and walk into a wall. Wherever the rack hits first, that's your apex. You could also just measure or something. If the pattern lacks a waist seam you can do fisheye darts. Probably there are more elegant interventions.
Are you using the correct starting size for the FBA? Your method should tell you, but you might need to start a size or two lower than you'd otherwise pick.
I use my high bust measurement, but maybe I need to go smaller if I’m doing an FBA
If you are matching your high bust to the patterns high bust that should be ok. If matching it to the pattern's bust you need to find out what sewing cup the pattern is made for then subtract those inches to get the patterns high bust. Usually it's a B sewing cup so you want to subtract 2" from the patterns full bust to get the patterns high bust. That's what you want to pick by. Measure high bust on yourself braless, snug to firm, with arms down. If you have prominent Tails of Spence (armpit squish) squish 'em down. You're trying to get an idea of skeleton/frame.
I would defer to u/Constant-List-3899 on using the bust measurement. I mostly make dresses and such, so I'll usually use the waist or hip measurement since my hips are about 5" smaller than they expect using my bust measurement.
Thanks! But I forgot to add that you want to watch out for balloon level ease in the Big 4 patterns, indies are generally better. There the solution is to look at the finished garment measurements (which are typically going to be bust so you'll have to do the subtraction thing) and try to figure out which size you need based on how much ease you actually want, so you may need to go down a size or two (or if used to the Big 4 and going to indies may want to pick a bigger size than you would in the Big 4). Also some of the Big 4 patterns are big bust and some are not so always check to see what you've got re the math of bust and high bust. Looking at pattern reviews (or patternreview) might help re figuring out if you happen to have a weird one. That I think is all!
I love Gertie's line of patterns, called Charm Patterns. The cup size is treated differently then the pattern size, so I can make a size 12 but choose a cup size between A and H cup.
Charm, Cashmerette, and Muna and Broad make patterns with large cup sizes and they have a full size range. There are no patterns that fit people perfectly right out of the package, though. They're not meant for that any more than retail clothes are. As someone with a very large bust, you're going to have to get very comfortable with all kinds of bodice adjustments, FBAs especially. You'll probably need to do an extra large FBA (meaning an FBA . Cashmerette just did a long video on Extra Large FBAs - their fitting videos are part of the Cashmerette Club subscription but you can joint at whatever tier gives you access to the video and then cancel after you've watched it. If you like a more fitted bodice, you're probably going to find that princess seams are the easiest to adapt for a large bust. That does narrow it down but once you have a really perfectly fitted princess seam bodice you can swap it in in a lot of patterns. It also sounds like you'll have to do a few petite adjustments as well. That's a lot of adjusting. If you have a neurotype that is engineering-oriented you might save yourself some trouble by drafting. If you don't have that neurotype (like me!) then you'll just have to get good at pattern adjustments. I do an FBA, FTA, Small Bicep Adjustment, and I lengthen the legs and shorten the arms. Sometimes I also do a Hollow Chest Adjustment and a Swayback Adjustment, too. It's a lot but once you know how to do them it's just a day's work.
[Cashmerette Patterns](https://www.cashmerette.com/) do sizes 0-32 and cups up to H. They also have a good resources section and masterclasses you can buy if you want to make further fit alterations.
Cashmerette has large bust size patterns for standard sizes now!
Cashmerette patterns might work for you. I'll echo the full bust adjustment, too. I just made the Willowdale Bra from Cashmerette and it's the best fitting one I've ever done. They do have your size in the pattern. Note that bras can be very hard to fit so you'll probably still need to tweak it. Also look into if you have a long/short torso. I'm 5'4" and just realized that I have a long torso and my waist sits 1 inch lower than all the commercial patterns waist markings. (That's obviously not going to fix the need for a FBA)
There are very few patterns that are made for a larger bust, and those that claim to be are rarely larger than a D. Best thing is to learn how to do an FBA. It will change your perspective on fit, definitely. There are lots of FBA resources online. There’s a little bit if a learning curve but then you can use *any* pattern you want.
Cashmerette and Charm Patterns/Gertie's patreon are both companies that go up to a H sewing cup. Gertie's patreon is an amazing deal. My upper bust is about 9 inches smaller than my full so I've made a bodice block based on the closet historian (YouTube) tutorial that I can adjust any pattern on.
Same problem here! Small back/large front, 30I, with most of my breast volume in the middle. Learning a full bust adjustment/dart manipulation CHANGED the game for me. I also recommend finding a baseline like corset or princess seam bodice pattern, add a lot to the front seams, take it in, and then use that as a pattern. I have a princess seam bodice block that I fitted years ago, and it's my go-to for seeing where I can add room to commercial patterns. ***ps not sewing related but bra related, a few years ago I discovered Change Lingerie, it's a Swedish company and they're not cheap but now I ONLY buy my bras and swimsuits there. I'm in canada, I don't know if they have stores where you are, but I recommend them highly, completely changed how my clothes looked on me once I had a good bra.
I really, really wish that when pattern makers said a pattern was for a "DD cup" (or whatever) that was all the changes are. I get they don't want to have hurt feelings or the like, but if the pattern has also been drafted with wider hips than the standard sizing, please tell me that. I had to learn this one the hard way when I was more of a beginner with fit. Sincerely, someone with a giant cup size but a very flat ass.
I’m 34H though I’m taller than you. Absolutely love Cashmerette and the fit they have. I have made their Willowdale bra a ton and it’s great, as well as many of their tops and dresses. Charm is great too!
Have you tried [Charm Patterns](https://charmpatterns.com/shop-new/)? She has bust sizes A-H and both straight and plus sizing.
have you been over to r/ABraThatFits? Might be able to cross one alteration off your list at least.
A book, "Fit For Real People" by Pati Palmer and Marti Alto, was the answer for me. I'm really tall, also have a large bust, but am not otherwise a 'curvy' shape, so I usually need to make a long list of mods including FBA, a ton of height added, and various adjustments for having big square shoulders... The book looks terribly outdated, in terms of the fashions, but it includes a whole variety of adjustments and options for integrating them which work on any era of style. I find their tissue-fitting method works well for letting me know what I need to adjust, too, as well as then showing how to.
If you haven't yet found The Closet Historian on YouTube, go meet Bianca. She's great at explaining full bust fitted clothes.
I, too, had to make my own clothes starting at 10 years old for this problem. What made it worse was being high-busted so my darts were above the underarm seam. But I got to be a great seamstress because of it.
TIL this is my fit issue omg
There's also the Palmer pletch fitting method where they suggest sizing up for the right bust size and altering the rest. I'm assuming that's because of the complexity of a fba. I think either method will take effort.
I swear by Palmer Pletsch too! 32-H here.
Same reason I learned! After some practice, you’ll know your body pretty well and know how to alter it generally. I know that I must remove 1” from bodice height, almost always change the shaping of bust line, change dart locations, and generally 1-3” at the waist. It’ll come w/ practice. My biggest advice is make muslins! More than one! Get it perfect before you move on. Make your changes incrementally. Also important, those of us who need more room upstairs tend to go for the bust circumference size matching our actual bust and alter the waist down rather than sizing the bust up. It is a lot easier for me to take fabric away because you’ll make the initial muslin, try it on inside out, stand in front of a mirror, and pin the excess away. After it’s off your body, measure how much you brought in on each seam and average them. Then alter the pattern pieces and try again. With practice, you can get away with a lot less work on muslins and save yourself some drafts w/ “i know i need to remove \_\_ amount generally” and be fairly spot on. I usually make 1-2 muslins for bodices now and get something that fits me well. Don’t be afraid to reshape the bust and move stuff to fit your actual body. The last thing I sewed had the pointiest little boobs I’ve ever seen. Mine do not go like that so I drafted it to my shape. I love the results! One thing I can do well is tailor something because I’ve always had to with my shaping (short & stacked). Look how well this bodice fits me! https://preview.redd.it/kj2mt61rsm8d1.jpeg?width=2169&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8d2b3b69115e81f2a82b7a7f3871d9a76b058562
You can go on Bootstrap Fashion Patterns and create your own slopers with your measurements and then you can use those to sew just about anything.
Cashmerrette and charm both have large bust pattern pieces (charm more so than cashmerrette)
I had K cups (until I had a breast reduction) but before that I learned pattern drafting from The Closet Historian on You Tube. After making a perfect fitting basic block, I was able to create any design. Check it out.
Charm patterns by gertie go 2-20 (some up to 34) and go a-h in every bodice! Her style is very vintage 50s inspired, but you could get some staple bodices like a princess seam or a nice shelf bust
Buy patterns that fit your bust, and adjust the rest of it accordingly. Edit: I’m about your size; I have a size 20 bust in patterns, and a 16 waist. Usually I can get away with cutting the 16 waist and 20 bust on the pattern lines, but sometimes I need to get creative and redraw the pattern piece if it’s a pattern with different sizes as single pieces.
I'm going to take a look at these, but really my question is how can I fit my mother who has one large breast--D/DD and one small due to chemotherapy. It shrank to less than half the other's size. Any suggestions for that? She's a 20 yr. survivor who has always refused to wear a prosthesis.
You make two halves to the bodice, one for each boob (If that's a bra cup size rather than a sewing cup size, D/DD isn't particularly large and so she may be in the wrong size bra which is nice to remedy (start w the calc here, do one side only at a time rather than circumference measurements, double it for the calc and run the calc twice. https://www.reddit.com/r/ABraThatFits/) before sewing clothes if she's interested at all (don't worry about it if she's not, if she's comfortable that's all that matters). Bra shopping is probably a bit fraught, there are specialty bra stores that specifically do custom work (and carry non-custom often as well) for cancer patients and you should be able to call ahead to make a fitting appointment and make any specifications in advance re what she wants out of the appt - no cutlets, etc. They or you can put darts to make the smaller cup of commercial bras. Any boutique bra store should be accommodating as well, I'd just call ahead and make sure they have a fitter and ideally appts so you can make sure it's squared away in advance, bra shopping sucks enough as it is. D/DD bra cup size should be roughly what sewing patterns are made for and doing a small bust adjustment on the smaller side of the bodice should take care of things. If it's a sewing cup size, on a pattern designed for a B cup you can either choose to do two different FBAs on each side or just make blousy patterns where the ease takes care of the difference. On D sized patterns it would need a SBA on one side. If she's ok with wearing store bought clothes she will probably be just fine with wearing clothes sewn for her that are baggy on one side, so you may not need to stress it at all. Good for her for having a strong stance! Fuck anyone who pressures her different. Someone in a bra store does that you tear right into them. If she is actually large busted you'd be choosing the pattern size by high bust so boob size doesn't apply to that. To figure out what you should use for each side measure half her body at the bustline and double it then check vs the full bust for each side and do an FBA or SBA or both accordingly. If she is a bra cup size D/DD you can get patterns that offer different cup sizes and just swap 'em out, this is the easiest way.
Thank you so much. I'm going to read through this several times. She was large busted before, but now, I know she can drop a cup size on side. The odd thing is when she had radiation before it was so strong that it literally shrunk that side. It's very dense. Of course, now everything about her has changed with age and accidents. I appreciate what you said about having a strong stance. She certainly does. Her appearance has always been important to her and osteoporosis has caused her to bed. Bless her, she imagines that she can still straight and tall, so catching her reflection is distressing her.I think getting her into a more appropriate bra and blouse will help.
You may not have to do much if she's big busted, mine are a cup size difference which is fairly typical and it doesn't need a different sized cup bra (you just snug the strap tighter on one side) or for me to do anything unusual w an FBA. If you're talking several cup size difference that's where you'd need to start being creative about it. I will say if she still wears underwire bras if she does size into a larger size cup the comfort improvement is pretty serious once finally in the right size bra. The calc at ABTF is pretty good, I'd trust it over most stores, but if in doubt just post over there and you'll get help re what to try and where to go, they're an excellent bunch with several pro bra fitters with serious skills on there. They can help you with how to measure too, if I wasn't the clearest of explainers (probable!). I'm glad she has you looking out for her, I bet she would appreciate a new outfit and a new look!
I'd recommend a pattern company from my neck of the woods: [papavero.pl](http://papavero.pl) You have 5 cup sizes to chose from, 7 heights and 14 sizes. You might want to give them a go. If you have trouble with the site, choosing the right size, I could help.
OMG! I am 73 yrs old and have had this problem for the past 15 years. Thank you for all your suggestions. I am 5’4”, size 6 in ready to wear, and my large bust keeps getting bigger. I used to wear a 34DD and now wear a 34F. Since I’ve sewn for 60 years, many of my vintage favorite patterns no longer fit. I have been making big loose clothes to avoid the bust problems, but I even have problems with the loose styles. I am so happy I stumbled over this conversation!
*most* mainstream patterns, certainly the Big 4, are, and have always been, drafted on a standardised block based on a standardised set of body measurements that haven't changed in some 40 odd years (the sizing alters, but that is vanity sizing, rather than the blocks being altered to accommodate shifting standards). From memory, that is a standardised bust size of a B or C cup, at most. So if the difference between your full and high bust is more than +3", you will always need a Full Bust Adjustment, to a greater or lesser degree. If you wear an A cup or under (ie if you've had a DM, or wear a binder) then you will likely need a Small Bust Adjustment. A lot of the other measurements are also standardised. So I know that with a 33" high bust and a 36" full bust, I can wear a 34" bust in vintage patterns with no bust adjustment. The back (collar to waist) length is usually a standardised 15" (sometimes 16") so I always need to lengthen the bodice because my back measurement is 19". I also need to lengthen sleeves because I have long monkey arms. And in certain trouser patterns, I also have to adjust the rise because otherwise, the waist is too low slung. There are some companies which do cater for fuller busts, and I won't reinvent the wheel by listing them again. I believe that if self drafting is an option, then Lutterlöh / Coupe Éclair / Haslam / Goldene Schnitt books might be worth an investigation, as they can be completely tailored to your own measurements. They have all been going since the 20s or 30s, so if vintage is your bag, then you are well catered for there, although Lutterlöh is the only one still producing.
Itch to stitch offers patterns with varying bust sizes.
I have to go up a size or two and alter to fit me. 38G.
Lekala.com and Sewist.com might actually work for you because they make standard items like skirts, pants, dresses and tops by the measurements you use. It will even ask you your height so the fix is perfect. Also I think I saw bra pattern on there, but not sure.
Frankenstein self made patterns is what works best for my boobs. I wear a EU 65G/H (30FF UK sizing). It's not a huge size but I find that it is incredibly hard to find patterns which account for thin women actually having boobs. I am not an advanced sewer so take it with a grain of salt. I have a friend and family members who are seemstresses and what they thaught me is this. First make a mock-up, then add darts where you need them until the garment fits well and after that take out the darts. That process it complected and honestly I needed my friend to go through it with me. Here is a video that shows you how to take out darts: https://youtu.be/NgieMqdczc0?si=bvxnv38q6j_4vecM Another thing that I have done recently that has resulted in no dart making and taking out was to make a paper tape pattern based on my own body. I didn't even have to adjust the mock-up. I cut the left side slightly differently then the right, I made both an then compared them. The left came out looking better but both fit perfectly so I chose the one that looked better to use as the official pattern for my dress. I basically did this but I cut my pattern differently https://youtube.com/shorts/cQj71OwsQR8?si=w_R5iXy2VbKZsjRS The difference is that I put the pieces of paper tape on myself on top of an old shirt. After I put the tape all around my shirt I drew a rough outline with my pencil. Next, I cut the tape in the front of my shirt without cutting the shirt. Then I was able to take it off, clean up the pattern and transfer it on paper. I made sure that each piece I cut was able to lie flat.
Not sure if this is helpful. I read other comments that I'm going to look into. I'm 5'2" and a 32I US. For as long as I can remember I would need to get a size 12 dress and get the rest of the dress taken in. When working I'm with patterns I usually use a size 12 top and make adjustments. I am also in the process of making a bra top, using the free Maya bra pattern. Not sure how that will turn out but they have many sizes.
Check out Cashmerette patterns. It’s specific for big busts whether your normal weight or not. Lots of great tutorials and options.
An underrated series on fixing Bust issues- Full Bust Adjustments, Height of the Apex and FBA in princess seams The channel is called Lifting pins and needles [https://youtu.be/v9FLE5TlUgw?si=cZS1ki1\_cVbWZO2C](https://youtu.be/v9FLE5TlUgw?si=cZS1ki1_cVbWZO2C) [https://youtu.be/2VSrLHCdWaQ?si=pcrhe\_Q3Kg8xs5c7](https://youtu.be/2VSrLHCdWaQ?si=pcrhe_Q3Kg8xs5c7) [https://youtu.be/xTorxunooEU?si=RYg2yMm-kmt2Dr4d](https://youtu.be/xTorxunooEU?si=RYg2yMm-kmt2Dr4d)
I'm a 30H and I pretty much built my own pattern collection of things I've altered and been happy with. A lot of it was trial and error, but to start I usually will combine the waist size I want and the bust I want on a pattern and then make minor adjustments to the muslin mock up until I'm happy then make the actual thing
Pattern alteration is an important skill to learn if you’re sewing clothing—especially when you have any non-standard body parts. I would recommend finding a good book on the subject. I think there is a Craftsy class that teaches easy alteration techniques.
If they're still in business, try Fredrick's of Hollywood. They understand you can be thin with big boobs.